[54inches]

It read 8v when cranking.

Off to get a new battery.

 

[RobA300]

Hope the new battery helps. I went through the whole system the past 2 days. No crank, battery was ok, changed ignition switch and relay. Still no crank. removed starter and had it tested and it was ok. Put starter back in and retightened everything and starts fine now.

This thread was a big help and hopefully it was just a loose connection somewhere. At least I have ruled out the common issues.

Happy new year.

 

[54inches]

Yes, I had the battery tested and it would not even stand up to 400 cca.

Sounds like you had a corrosion issue.

 

[CarbEnvoy]

Man, when this switch goes, you are dead-in-the-water!

It started acting up on us while on vacation. The voy would crank but not fire. IT would then start on the 2nd or 3rd try.

Then, on the long drive home (2, 8 hour days) it just won't start for us in a rest area with no cell coverage, and 20 minutes from a resort town, 6 hours into the first day. Gauges go black when turning the key to the start position, the tach and speedo go crazy in the run position, sometimes the engine would crank but not fire, no noise from fuel pump. I figured it was the switch.

A really nice family that lived in the nearby town was ice-fishing at the rest area and gave us a ride to town, and let my wife and 9 month old son stay at their house while I went back to pick up the voy with the tow truck (flat deck).

Since the switch won't activate anything, we couldn't even move the tranny into neutral to load it onto the flat deck. The driver got the back wheels on the deck using some skids, then lifted the back, and crawled under to move the tranny into neutral manually.

Towed it to the only shop in town, but they can't look at it till the next morning. When they scan the PCM the next day, (and after a $200 hotel room) they get a code for low voltage on ignition 1. Amazingly, the voy starts for them several times. They call me to tell me what they did, and tell me it's running outside. So we pick it up and drive the remaining 10 hours to get home without shutting it off, even for fuel.

Also on the way home, I picked up a new switch at a dealer in one of the towns, $53 before tax.

We got home safely. Next morning I take 20 minutes and replace the switch thanks to the great info on this site.

The lesson to be learned, replace the switch ASAP when you first notice any symptoms, even if you are on vacation. Getting it done at a dealer for even $150 or more would be better than getting stuck somewhere.

 

[bohlgren]

i have a '04 TB where is the best place to stick the screwdriver in to pry the covers of the steering column off. I dont want to end up cracking the plastic

 

[CarbEnvoy]

bohlgren: I have some photos of the cover taken off, I can post them tonight.

There is a little trick to tilt it down as you remove it, I don't know this and almost broke some clips.

 

[bohlgren]

ok cool, it just doesnt seem like it will come off with the wheel still attached. the repair manual i have says to remove the steering wheel but if i can get around not having to remove it that would be super

 

[CarbEnvoy]

Here's some photos of the lower portion of the steering column. You can see where I broke one of the internal tabs. The tabs on the back on each side are the ones to watch out for.

Anyone know what the small cylinder behind the ignition is for?

 

[dpratt7]

Ignition Switch?

I get in my TB to days ago and it won't Start. Jump it and everything is fine. I then noticed that after I lock it with the remote the aftermarket radio turns on.
I removed the face plate which should keep it from turning on, next day dead again. Now I notice that my after market gps is on in the morning after I know I turned it off. Next I unhooked the radio and the gps and it barely turns over. I was thinking the ignition switch was staying in the acc position even when I turned it to off. Any thoughts?:thx

 

[bohlgren]

so i got them pryed apart but i cant seem to get the lip from the bottom column out from underneath the steering wheel.. any suggestions or should i just take off the steering wheel and do it that way?

 

[CarbEnvoy]

Once you have the front portion pryed apart, you have to tilt the cover downwards a bit to get the internal tabs to release, then pull it towards the seat, still at a bit of a downward angle.

I would try to avoid taking off the steering wheel, unless you know what you're doing with airbags. It really isn't necessary to take off the sttering wheel though.

 

[bohlgren]

mission accomplished today! thanks for all the help, I also found this video to be very helpful!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1PqznH9ADgA

 

[brentb]

Thank you very much, Mellis.

I'm a mechanical idiot, but managed to change my ignition switch thanks to your (and others') directions in this forum. My garage wanted $250 for the job, and I did it for $61 (we get hosed for parts in Canada) and about an hour of cussing and mucking about.

I love this forum! I've saved about $1,000 in unnecessary charges in the year since I got my 2003 Envoy.

 

[mellis]

I'm really glad this thread has helped so many people save a few bucks...

It was the least I could do since other people's threads have saved me so much $ (like the stepper motor replacement thread).

 

[Asparky]

Hey bohlgren that Sparky YouTube Vidio on replacing the ignition switch you posted is GREAT.. Cleared up a couple small details... Pictures like that vidio are worth a 1000 words... Maybe a sticky??? Thanks to all, I think I read every post!
One question, this was on a 2004, I have a 2006 and the switch is Grey.. Does anyone know if the 2006 TB/Rainiers had the Grey switch or the Older type Black one from the factory?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1PqznH9ADgA

Thanks again to all

Asparky

 

[Asparky]

Whats the concensus on replacement switches (brands)?

GMC AC Delco $50
AutoZone Duralast with limited Lifetime warrenty $40
Napa Ekland $40
OTHERS?

If the GMC switches are bad design why buy the replacement even if it is the Gray one??

Thanks
RON

 

[Birkiebob]

Has anyone had a bad wire harness in addition to the bad switch, for example, it got hot from a bad switch and some of it melted or burned? Did I miss a post on this somewhere here? Is the harness available and as easy to install?

 

[S2Nice]

Mine went out today. Same symptom as everyone else's (ABS, Brake, and Service 4WD lights, no HVAC motor). Took it out and pulled the little covers off of it. Burnt contacts and melted plastic around the burnt contact. Local parts house doesn't have one, so I soldered in a jumper from pins A to G (I think) to power the ABS, HVAC, etc for one day until I can pick up the new switch. Works fine as an emergency repair. Will probably buy a spare just in case.

One thing I did notice, though, is that when you put the connector back on, it may be a little flaky, even if locked on. I have a long-standing habit of tweaking the pins (blades) slightly. As sockets wear against their pins, a slight twist of the pin can restore contact, by using a new surface of the pin to contact a new surface within the socket. Works great in washers, dryers, combat vehicles, and now, Trailblazers.

 

[CarbEnvoy]

S2Nice - I opened mine up after replacing and found the same thing, burnt contacts. I didn't have any melted plastic though.

Could probably buff them up to shiny again and make it work, but would it be worth the risk of getting stranded (again in my case)?

 

[lou71]

Have a problem. When I was gonna start the tb today it would not start. I have a new battery (two weeks old) and a new alternator (also two weeks old). I have all power lights come on, dash lights come on, and even the radio turns on. My girlfriend dad gave me a jump and it started. Take it to autozone to test the battery and they said it was good. He even noticed the new alternator. Since I've reading this post could it be I have a bad ignition switch?