Chevy TrailBlazer, TrailBlazer SS and GMC Envoy Forum banner

241 - 252 of 252 Posts

·
Registered
2003 chevy trailblazer_ls
Joined
·
7 Posts
Need help! Stumped. Been trying to get my truck started all week but every time I turn the key I get the same response. No crank. I can hear The fuel pump or something clicking on top of the engine when I turn the key. The lights on the dash go out when turning the key but I noticed the headlights do not (unusual). The battery is new; but the battery light, service light, the brake light, the airbag light, and the abs light stay on as well as the oil, fuel, battery, and temperature gauge show no reaction. Also when I turn the key I feel nothing at all in the starter relay. I just replaced the ignition switch because we all know how flakey those can be. And I'm 99% sure the starter is good, because I can ground it and get it to turn. Checked every single fuse in both boxes and triple checked every possible connection, and everything is pretty solid. In dire need of some expert advice! Thank you in advance.
 

·
Registered
2008 chevy trailblazer_ls
Joined
·
1 Posts
Huge Thanks

Thanks to all who have posted in this thread....I was lost as to why my '09 TB was acting like it was. Pointing me towards the ignition switch was a time and lifesaver. Thanks again!
 

·
Registered
2006 chevy trailblazer_lt
Joined
·
4 Posts
Thanks for the write up! I replaced mine today. Then the headlight relay. Hopefully my auto headlights work again, and my actual headlights work again. I keep blowing the relay.

Side note, the manual steering wheel lever pulls straight out, for those who have one...
 

·
Registered
2008 chevy trailblazer_ss_lt
Joined
·
1 Posts
TB starts in RUN position a few times. In Acc with key out?

Hello.
Picked up an '08 TB for my wife after she totaled her Aviator. Happy so far, but chasing a few bugs.
Down Stream O2 Sensor took care of the only code so far. Stability has lit up a few times, but is out next time it is cranked up. Going to have it scanned for the Steering Wheel Sensor soon.

But, 3 times, I have turned the key to RUN, and the engine has cranked. A few more times, I have removed the key, and the radio has stayed on. Not shut off when you open the door, or gone off in a few minutes. I'm old school. I was thinking the switch was mounted to the top of the column above the brake pedal. Looking for loose mounting bolts. Looking for a switch that ain't there too.:duh: Started digging around, and found this thread.

I didn't see my problem posted, but a couple of thing come to mind.

Problem at the end of the lock cylinder/switch gear interface. allowing misalignment sometimes, but mainly working correctly.

Internal problem in the switch.

The headlights blinked out on me for a couple of seconds once, so a new relay is going to be put to work there.


Any other suggestions for the cranking in run position? I'll be pulling the old switch apart to look for any obvious signs inside. Previous owner passed away. One owner, great condition, but no records that didn't come up on Car Fax.

Thanks,
John
 

·
Registered
2006 chevy trailblazer_ls
Joined
·
79 Posts
My 06 v8 TB suffered various strange malfunctions like 'no start-no click', 'start and run terribly', and 'start and run normally'. I dropped $1500 into repairs all of which did not fix the problem. The problem was the switch, but a new switch failed within a week or so. In the end what the problem was the switch --AND-- the harness to the switch. After the switch was replaced, the harness shorted out and blew up the new switch. There is a TSB out there regarding the harness failure. So ... if I ever had to replace a GM switch in the future, I will replace the harness as well.
 

·
Registered
2005 chevy trailblazer_ls
Joined
·
2 Posts
YEARS and still shorting out #22 fuse

I followed this post, on top of another with the following reply:
xTooltipElement
Service Information 2007 Chevrolet TrailBlazer - 4WD | Envoy, Rainier, TrailBlazer, Ascender (VIN S/T) Service Manual | View All Bulletins | Document ID: 2000415
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

#PIT4035A: IGN E Fuse Open At Times No Crank No Start - keywords bracket brake chafe circuit crank door fuse IGNE ignition no nocrank nostart open pedal plate sill start wire - (Jul 26, 2007)


Subject: IGN E Fuse Open At Times No Crank No Start


Models: 2004-2007 Buick Rainier

2002-2008 Chevrolet Trailblazer Models

2002-2008 GMC Envoy Models

2002-2004 Oldsmobile Bravada

2005-2008 Saab 97x




--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

This PI was superseded to update model years. Please discard PIT4035.


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

The following diagnosis might be helpful if the vehicle exhibits the symptom(s) described in this PI.

Condition/Concern:
Multiple electrical concerns and the vehicle may not crank or start. This may be the result of an open IGN E fuse. There have been 3 areas of concerns were the ignition E fuse circuit 639 (Pink Wire) or Circuit 420 (Purple Wire) may chafe and cause the fuse to open.

Drivers side rear door under the sill plate
Along the steering column from the ignition switch
On the driver's side of the vehicle near the brake pedal bracket.
Recommendation/Instructions:
If the ignition E fuse is open, inspect the following 3 areas. Be sure to inspect these wires closely. Typical contact will be a small pin hole into the insulation of the wire.

Open the driver's side rear door. Remove the sill plate on the floor. Inspect for chafed harness were the sill plate retainers may have chafed the wire harness.
Remove the steering column covers and knee bolster. Inspect the harness that runs along the steering column toward the C201 series connector (large connector at the base of the steering column).
Remove the lower kick panel. Inspect the harness as it may contact the brake pedal support bracket.
Note: If any of the 3 situations located above are identified, it is recommended that the wire(s) are repaired and the harness is re-routed or protected to prevent future concerns.

Please follow this diagnostic or repair process thoroughly and complete each step. If the condition exhibited is resolved without completing every step, the remaining steps do not need to be performed.

I have the same problem with my TB and 07TB posted this on my "in for service" thread. Hope it helps.... i think you're going to have to rely on your dealer for this one unless you have decent skill as a technician.




AND STILL the #22 fuse blows fuses! and I'm no where closer to getting this POS working reliably again. I've re=wrapped any wiring I could find that had wrap that was coming off, or looking shoddy. It looks like a previous owner before me, had gone in and did their own job of wrapping loose wiring. SO I don't know what was worked on because of the amazingly frustrating issue, and what was factory wrapping. But As I re-charge my dead battery (dead only because I've spent so long trying to work on it, and fix the damn problem) I've posted asking about the wiring if anyone had pics of wiring they had to re-wrap. And ALL I get is the ignition switch threads. I've replaced that switch multiple times, and gone through many 10 amp fuses. I've also relayed the relay for ignition relay as well.

Still, I'm no closer to finding where the damn truck is shorting out. I've followed that suggestion above, as much as I can. But I don't know for sure which wires to focus on. A pink and a purple, but which ones? PICs would have been very nice.
And to be honest, I'm about a pubic hair away from scrapping it, and going back to foreign brands.
I'm beyond my wits end on this garage issue, and POS TB. Apparently, the rule still applies. Get rid of your Chevy once it hits 100k. Because they turn into moneypits!!
 

·
Registered
2004 gmc envoy_slt_xl
Joined
·
1 Posts
Periodic no start no noise

Periodically I turn on the key and have nothing. I took the car to the shop and they said that the key is old and needed new software. I have a 2004 envoy XL with the 5.3 AWD. I took it in again and this time they kept it a week and said there was no problem and reportedly started it 35 times without issue. I picked it up and one day later the key turned but nothing. I suggested ignition switch. The truck has 317,000 miles on it. They said no way just junk it. It looks great and runs strong. I bought it new in 2004 and it is a faithful steed. I think ignition switch. What do you think?
 

·
Registered
2003 gmc envoy_slt_xl
Joined
·
11 Posts
So I’ve just replaced my ignition switch again. This is my 6th. I was going 75mph in the middle lane of 3 lane highway. I felt the engine miss, dash lights dimmed and flickered, engine stopped. I was 45mi from home at 9:30pm 7/3. After 20 min with app and phone calls my insurance company was procuring a tow home for an additional $160. I checked under the hood and Found nothing amiss. Then popped the ignition switch out. I wiggled, pressed, disconnected and reconnected the wires, and moved the gear of the switch completely counter clockwise (Rearward)..no change.

My wife drove from our home to pick me up. Still no tow truck. She also ordered a tow from ATT roadside service. After a couple hours I left the keys and we went home. Finally at 3am my Envoy was delivered. The next morning I took the battery and alternator to O’Reilly’s. Both were good. Home again and everything reinstalled I went after the ignition switch. After a few minutes of aggressive Fiddling I got it started. I went and exchanged the switch for the “free” Lifetime replacement.

I think I might buy an an extra switch to keep in the glove box next to the transmission shift link bushing kit.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
Thanks for the kind words... Like I mentioned in my post for help, this place has saved me a ton of time, hassle, and money, so I felt it was my duty to give a little back.

I noticed (just now) that I posted this under the 6 cylinder OEM issues forum, is there a way to put it into the 8 cylinder one too? (I have the 8 cylinder in my ride.)

I'm just thinking it might help even more people.
Nine times out of 10 I found out that it is just the ignition switch after reading page after page after page on issues now this is my third time messing with it definitely buy one or two keep one at home and one in the car at all times I also keep the stupid plastic piece that covers that area off so I don't have to keep messing with it every 8 to 9 months
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
Okay, I replaced my ignition switch yesterday. I was nervous, I had read numerous posts about this, but some of them conflicted, and I wasn’t sure what I was getting myself into. I haven’t done a whole lot of work on newer car systems, although I did replace the stepper motors on my Envoy a while ago. The switch replacement was unbelievably simple, and anyone can do it.

Anyway, I decided to make this post, hopefully it’ll help someone who needs to do this in the future.

(FYI, I have a 2004 Envoy XUV, with foot pedal adjustment and tilt wheel controls on the steering column, and had no problem at all.)

First, you’ll only need two thin regular screwdrivers and the replacement switch to do the job.

Disconnect your negative battery cable. I’ve heard that you should disable the airbag, but I’ve read that others did not do this, and neither did I. Just to be safe, I tried to stay away from the front of the wheel while working on the switch.

Take one of your screwdrivers and gently pry the covers of the steering column off. They should separate pretty easily, then you just need to remove the bottom cover to get access to the switch.

Once the cover is off, you’ll see the bottom of the switch where the harness plugs in, the rest of the switch is slid up into a metal sleeve.

Take your two screwdrivers and insert them into the two holes in the metal sleeve. This pushes back the spring tabs on the ignition switch, allowing you to pull the switch assembly down and out of the metal sleeve. The pictures below have two red arrows showing where the two screwdrivers need to be inserted. The yellow circle shows where the harness connects to the switch. The last picture shows the switch removed from the sleeve, but not disconnected from the harness.







Disconnect the switch from the harness.

Look at the teeth of the old switch and compare them to the new switch. Align the new switch gear with the old switch gear. There is a gap in the gears you should see that greatly helps with the alignment.

Plug the harness into the new switch.

Insert the new switch into the metal sleeve until you hear the spring tabs engage the holes in the sleeve.

Reconnect your column cover.

Reconnect your negative battery terminal.

Start her up.

Hope this helps. Took me about 15-20 minutes to do, and most of that time was spent getting the stupid harness off the old switch.

(Moderators, feel free to relocate this post if necessary.)
And don't buy the factory AC Delco ones anymore since they only have a one year warranty go to O'Reilly's and buy the lifetime warranty for four more dollars extra
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
Periodic no start no noise

Periodically I turn on the key and have nothing. I took the car to the shop and they said that the key is old and needed new software. I have a 2004 envoy XL with the 5.3 AWD. I took it in again and this time they kept it a week and said there was no problem and reportedly started it 35 times without issue. I picked it up and one day later the key turned but nothing. I suggested ignition switch. The truck has 317,000 miles on it. They said no way just junk it. It looks great and runs strong. I bought it new in 2004 and it is a faithful steed. I think ignition switch. What do you think?
Like I said a couple of times another Post 9 times out of 10 it's the ignition switch O'Reilly's has an lifetime warranty one don't buy the AC Delco one because it's only got a one year warranty and guaranteed you'll probably have to replace it either after the one year warranty is up or just before.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
Okay, I replaced my ignition switch yesterday. I was nervous, I had read numerous posts about this, but some of them conflicted, and I wasn’t sure what I was getting myself into. I haven’t done a whole lot of work on newer car systems, although I did replace the stepper motors on my Envoy a while ago. The switch replacement was unbelievably simple, and anyone can do it.

Anyway, I decided to make this post, hopefully it’ll help someone who needs to do this in the future.

(FYI, I have a 2004 Envoy XUV, with foot pedal adjustment and tilt wheel controls on the steering column, and had no problem at all.)

First, you’ll only need two thin regular screwdrivers and the replacement switch to do the job.

Disconnect your negative battery cable. I’ve heard that you should disable the airbag, but I’ve read that others did not do this, and neither did I. Just to be safe, I tried to stay away from the front of the wheel while working on the switch.

Take one of your screwdrivers and gently pry the covers of the steering column off. They should separate pretty easily, then you just need to remove the bottom cover to get access to the switch.

Once the cover is off, you’ll see the bottom of the switch where the harness plugs in, the rest of the switch is slid up into a metal sleeve.

Take your two screwdrivers and insert them into the two holes in the metal sleeve. This pushes back the spring tabs on the ignition switch, allowing you to pull the switch assembly down and out of the metal sleeve. The pictures below have two red arrows showing where the two screwdrivers need to be inserted. The yellow circle shows where the harness connects to the switch. The last picture shows the switch removed from the sleeve, but not disconnected from the harness.







Disconnect the switch from the harness.

Look at the teeth of the old switch and compare them to the new switch. Align the new switch gear with the old switch gear. There is a gap in the gears you should see that greatly helps with the alignment.

Plug the harness into the new switch.

Insert the new switch into the metal sleeve until you hear the spring tabs engage the holes in the sleeve.

Reconnect your column cover.

Reconnect your negative battery terminal.

Start her up.

Hope this helps. Took me about 15-20 minutes to do, and most of that time was spent getting the stupid harness off the old switch.
I have a 08 trailblazer one day it just wouldn't stop. New switch. No start. I can jump start where the relay is. And it starts fine, but not with that key. When you turn the key, there is no tension, it's just loose. I hear a click in the engine, no pressure in the key cylinder, and no start. Unless I jump the relay.
Please help
 
241 - 252 of 252 Posts
Top