...dad my truck isn't starting right??

Here we go......02 envoy xl 160k
Starts with the symptoms of a drained batt. Noise comes from the column right after start and turning it off(whooshing of sort ). she says she gives it some gas and it helps the start ....im not sure if it does??, tb probably needs a cleaning.
I think it's time for a switch?? She also says sometimes it wont start or will on the 2nd or 3rd try.
The batt and alt have been replaced recently also.

any thing else that starts working would be a plus ..think her seat is out and blower too.....no warning lights , reads 14ish on the volt meter.

looks like I have a evening with a envoy:ugh:

 

"She also says sometimes it wont start or will on the 2nd or 3rd try."

This, more than anything else you posted, makes it sound like a switch to me. Doubly so after hearing you've already replaced the battery and alternator.

Don't worry, it's a quick fix, and not too expensive.

 

Switch went easy as pie ,replaced it in 10 min. Sure was a great help being able to read the procedure and ,,with good pics..thanks guys :thumbsup:

But... she still has the hard start like a batt drain at 1st start. After some running it will fire right up.
One thing it did and still does is it will reset the radio clock when it acts up.
Now could the batt loose a cell if the alt went and she ran it? ...did smell batt when I changed the alt. If the batt is not it , my next guess is a short of some sort pulling the batt down over night.
Im leaning to a cooked batt the more I think about it .

Btw the switch was the factory one @160k ..guess that was a good one for as long as it lasted...or is still good .

 

Btw the switch was the factory one @160k ..guess that was a good one for as long as it lasted...or is still good .

Pry off the cover on the one side. If it was bad, you will see that the contacts are burned from arcing. At least mine was.

 

Ignition switch

Thank you very much, your post helped me with the issue and it worked like a charm

 

Ignition switch and low idle stall

I have been having trouble with a common problem, the low idle stall, and my repair shop "thinks" it is in the ignition switch. I have cleaned the throttle body and have had them check the computer upgrades. Thinking of trying this repair. Any thoughts.

Me: 2005 Trailblazer 4.2L 213,000 miles.

 

great write up and help

had non start issue this am, trouble shot and researched on the site
switch installed, problem solved.
great site and members

thanks again
Aplqst1

 

Great how-to. Thanks for the dummy proof pics. :tiphat

 

Replace ignition switch

I just wanted to say thanks for the instructions and the photos. I was able to replace my ignition switch and it only cost $40. I didn't have any experience working on a car but the instructions and photos were so good, I was able to replace the switch in less than an hour.

I have a 2004 Envoy XUV 4x4 I6. Several lights on the panel came on at the same time and stayed on. Also the blower motor on the HVAC quit working at the same time. The lights on the panel were ABS, Brake, and service 4WD. I was able to diagnose the problem through another post on this forum. The lights went out and the blower starter working after I replaced the switch.

Thanks again, it was an easy cheap fix that would have cost me a bundle at the dealership.

Tip: Be sure the ignition is in the off position and the key is out of the cylinder. Then look at the old switch when you take it out and see how the white gears/teeth are set. You will want to set the gears on the new switch the same. This will save you alot of time trying to set the new gears in the right position.

 

I just wanted to say thanks for the instructions and the photos. I was able to replace my ignition switch and it only cost $40. I didn't have any experience working on a car but the instructions and photos were so good, I was able to replace the switch in less than an hour.

I have a 2004 Envoy XUV 4x4 I6. Several lights on the panel came on at the same time and stayed on. Also the blower motor on the HVAC quit working at the same time. The lights on the panel were ABS, Brake, and service 4WD. I was able to diagnose the problem through another post on this forum. The lights went out and the blower starter working after I replaced the switch.

Thanks again, it was an easy cheap fix that would have cost me a bundle at the dealership.

Tip: Be sure the ignition is in the off position and the key is out of the cylinder. Then look at the old switch when you take it out and see how the white gears/teeth are set. You will want to set the gears on the new switch the same. This will save you alot of time trying to set the new gears in the right position.

This was a great tip from chillycole that worked for me.

My TB would not start Wednesday night, and the key was stuck. I was able to get a jump, and limped home. The next day I had my battery tested at O'Reilly's, and they told me it was at 91%, and told me that was good. I took their word for it at the time, since it had just been overworked by me cranking it several times trying to get the truck started the day before. I bought a new ignition switch and had it installed pretty quickly. As chilly mentioned, if you just click until you reach the "first" position (with the indentation), it should easily work when you insert the key from the "off" position. As it turns out, I still needed a new battery after all (had major corrosion - shame on ME), so once I swamped in a new one, my baby was back on the road!

 

Thx.

Thank you for the advice on here. I had similar symptoms as others have mentioned. I had my MIL light turn on last week and checked the code was for an O2 sensor I erased it and 2 days later came back on. I didn't check the code, drove it that day with light on and next day drove with it and began to notice sluggish power, but it's been 110 degrees here and driving with the AC on always etc. so yesterday I noticed I would turn key to start it and it hesitated for like a split second no chime, buzz, then start. driving it and it went in limp mode: stabilitrac light on, service engine soon. got it home and it died out, but read 4 codes first P2101, 1682, 1516, 0054,. remembered reading this thread and researched it, changed in 30 minutes. Started fine, runs good. Will keep an eye out for O2 sensor code P0156 if it comes back especially since I'm near 100k miles Thanks again.:thumbsup:

 

So glad to hear that people like my write-up/pics. Glad to help.

What's really amazing is seeing how many goofy things bad ignition switches do to our vehicles.

 

Many thanks to the OP and those that followed with the great advice and pictures. I have a 2004 Ascender with 110K miles, and just recently had the blower/ABS light issue. After finding this thread, I fixed the problem in under 15 minutes. Took longer to check out at NAPA than to fix!

Thanks again to the OP for the thread, and to the moderators for maintaining one of the best forums on the web! :yes:

Cheers,

Brian Clark
Norfolk, VA

 

key turns fine, everything comes one, but NO TURNOVER/START

I didn't see the PICS in the pages, or in the very first post. But did see the youtube links in the pages in the middle.

My problem with my '03 envoy v8 is not always starting up.

The key turns fine, the accessories are coming on, but it does not turn over or attempt to start the motor. turn the key back n forth several times and then it goes (turnsover and starts strong).

A few years ago the dealer replaced something in the steering wheel, swtich? or the barrell where the key goes, as the tranny flaked out and went into "limp home" mode.

I will look back at theri paperwork tonight no know for sure what they changed.

this has been happening for a few weeks. eventually it starts, sometimes in 2 tries, sometimes in 5 minutes. I thought it was the key and how I position it, but it seems flakier than that.

Is this really the ignition swtich module? intuitively, i woul dhave though it was where the keys goes, not the downline module...

thanks, in advance for help/info and a pointer to the pics.

-todd

 

follow-up

To follow-up on the other post, in Aug-2005 (@ 48,000 miles) I had the transmission stuck in 3rd gear and the truck ran in "limp home mode " I think it is called. the dealer changed the ignition switch, officially they claimed it was "internally shorted" $32 part 177 labor (wow, ridiculous), i has some other things done at the time too. But the easy-care extened warranty picked it up at that time. the part # on invoive was 12450251.

my symptoms are different this time, but is it the ignition switch module again?

liek some have posted, that one module has a lot of weird affects on the vehicle...

-todd

I didn't see the PICS in the pages, or in the very first post. But did see the youtube links in the pages in the middle.

My problem with my '03 envoy v8 is not always starting up.

The key turns fine, the accessories are coming on, but it does not turn over or attempt to start the motor. turn the key back n forth several times and then it goes (turnsover and starts strong).

A few years ago the dealer replaced something in the steering wheel, swtich? or the barrell where the key goes, as the tranny flaked out and went into "limp home" mode.

I will look back at theri paperwork tonight no know for sure what they changed.

this has been happening for a few weeks. eventually it starts, sometimes in 2 tries, sometimes in 5 minutes. I thought it was the key and how I position it, but it seems flakier than that.

Is this really the ignition swtich module? intuitively, i woul dhave though it was where the keys goes, not the downline module...

thanks, in advance for help/info and a pointer to the pics.

-todd

 

ignition swtich (which brand?)

In my previous post, the dealer changed the original out at 48k miles, now at 140,000 miles it seems the OWM part failed again.
which barnd is best from experience here?

The NAPA one?
Echlin ECH KS6254

The Advanced Auto one?
BWD CS643 (this one was referenced on pages 1-2 of this post from Hawaii

The AutoZone one:
Duralast part LS1115

or the one from the dealer, I didn't call for a price yet, but the ones above are 38-44 $ range.. so saving 5 bux for the OWM at dealer may not be worth it if these things fail every 3-5 years.

-todd

 

In my previous post, the dealer changed the original out at 48k miles, now at 140,000 miles it seems the OWM part failed again.
which barnd is best from experience here?

The NAPA one?
Echlin ECH KS6254

The Advanced Auto one?
BWD CS643 (this one was referenced on pages 1-2 of this post from Hawaii

The AutoZone one:
Duralast part LS1115

or the one from the dealer, I didn't call for a price yet, but the ones above are 38-44 $ range.. so saving 5 bux for the OWM at dealer may not be worth it if these things fail every 3-5 years.

-todd

Order the original AC Delco - it's only $13 + shipping from Rockauto.com (or $25 shipped from Amazon)

 

Just replaced my switch. The YouTube video was just perfect! A must to watch before doing this. I did mine in under 15 minutes. It took me longer to do the research than to do the job.

One time saver--I did not disconnect the battery. I didn't think it was necessary. Perhaps I was lucky. :undecided

 

still having trouble with NEW switch

changed out this weekend the new ignition switch, the new part # with grey side. worked great when I put in, today when my wife was out and about, she had to turn the key five times until it turned over. that was the same symptom as the old ignition switch.

there are no other sypmtoms or warning lights that come on. any ideas of what would cause that beyond the ignition switch? could the key barrell be a problem also?

-todd

 

ignition swtich not the problem

Changed out the ignition swtich last weekend. the '03 envoy has failed to start easily 3 times since then. after 10-20 turns of the key, it eventually decides to turnover. what would be the next logical thing to check? the ignition lock cylinder or maybe a connector/wire issue somewhere?

thanks for any advice / guidance.

-todd

 

...what would be the next logical thing to check?...

Listen under the hood for the starter relay to click. Even if it clicks, it may not have good output connections, so I'd swap that next. And inspect the heck out of the wiring down to the starter. Then suspect the starter.

 

I tore into my steering column yesterday to see if there was any loose wire or touching wires. But to my amazement there wasn't any. What I did notice is that on the second picture there is what looks like a cylinder with a piston sticking out underneath. I believe that is th override for the key release. Is that thing suppose to be hot to the touch?

 

I'll have to do this repair next before it leaves us stranded.

 

I changed the switch for the second time in two months. Sunday truck was running great in the morning, came home all is great. Later that day headed out and went to start, turned key and CLICK. Dash lights come on, everything except it won't turn over.
Changed Ignition switch and it started but now No AC or heat will blow thru the four front vents that aim for the head. The vents for the feet and windshield work but not the four vents that are for driver and passenger. when I change
the setting to blow at head it'll send the airflow to windshield and feet.

When I reconnected the negative cable to battery after changing out the switch, it sparked a tiny bit. Could that have shortened whatever controls the front vents to blow? Also when I did start the car I turned the key and for a second nothing then it started right up and the AC came on by itself. ?? I read awhile back that it's not good if AC comes on like that after reconnecting cable to batt... Any ideas... I do have the climate control.

 

...now No AC or heat will blow thru the four front vents that aim for the head. ...

Classic failure of the HVAC airflow mode actuator after a power removal to the control module in the dash.

http://forums.trailvoy.com/showthread.php?t=40235

Sparks are normal, and not the root cause of the HVAC problem. You might get it to recover with a fuse-pull reset and giving it time for a proper recalibration upon next start-up. All described in that thread.

 

THX.

Roadie, Thank You very much...:thumbsup: :thx

 

Ignition Switch??

Every ~25 starting attempts, my Envoy won't turn over. All the lights / accessories come on, but the started won't engage. However, when this occurred I could simply use my remote starter fob, and it would start no problem. After reading the posts here it seemed that I had a classic case of a failed ignition switch. I replaced it with a new switch, and it started initially; but unfortunately I seem to still be having the same problem with the same frequency i.e. not starting every ~25 attempts. The fact that the remote fob works no problem would indicate to me that the starter is fine, but I don't have any other ideas. Suggestions?? I almost wonder if I got a bad replacement ignition switch, but I recognize that this is highly improbable.

 

Could still be your starter relay or starter. The real experiment would be to exclusively use your remote starter and see if IT fails every 25 times. And it also depends on how your remote starter is wired in. Does it have its own starter relay or not?

 

Hi guys, I have a 2004 Trailblazer LS with 90K. Previously I had an Envoy so I'm really familar with the truck and understanding of it. Although I've never experieced this specific issue before on my envoy and I had over 200K before I retired here. so I'm looking for some assistance. Anyway, I've had it for a few weeks now and no problems whatsover until this morning...

she started without hesitation but the cluster lit up like a chirstmas tree. ABS/BRAKE and SERVICE 4WD all on and in addition the blower for the heat/ac/etc. will not work on any speeds (I've previously replaced the blower motor and resistor pack on the envoy and this just seems totally different)

So onto my question... My ground wires look clean so from reading the threads it seems almost a sure bet that my issue is a direct result of a faulty ignition switch. I just wanted to get some opinions and thoughts before I replace what I "think" is the problem.


Thanks in advance for the insight guys.


**Update**
for some reason I think I posted this in the the wrong thread that was much older and I apologize.

So I replaced the starter switch this afternoon and it seemed to correct the issue for all of about 5 minutes. I connected the switch reconnected the battery and voila! everything was back to normal. Lights were all off, Blower was working fine etc., no problems switching to 4wd etc.

I turned the truck off off and went back to work. Well I started it back up when I went to leave this evening and the ABS/BRAKE lights are on again :hopeless The blower and 4wd are fine.. but now my concern is with the ABS/BRAKE lights not going off.

Any Help or insight would be much appreciated

-Brad

 

Hope this helps

**Update**
for some reason I think I posted this in the the wrong thread that was much older and I apologize.

So I replaced the starter switch this afternoon and it seemed to correct the issue for all of about 5 minutes. I connected the switch reconnected the battery and voila! everything was back to normal. Lights were all off, Blower was working fine etc., no problems switching to 4wd etc.

I turned the truck off off and went back to work. Well I started it back up when I went to leave this evening and the ABS/BRAKE lights are on again The blower and 4wd are fine.. but now my concern is with the ABS/BRAKE lights not going off.

Any Help or insight would be much appreciated

-Brad




I was going through the same torment. Changed switch worked for about 10 minutes, all lights back on. At wits end I purchased some electrical parts cleaner (radio shack, autozone) and took the swith back out, sprayed well the switch connectors, the wire harness and even in the switch itself. I then unhooked the battery, took apart the connector that al those wires run into under the dash and did the same to it. Waited an hour to make sure it was all dry, put back together and Viola!! no more problems. Hope this helps other desperate people.


P.S. None of the connectors looked dirty, so just spend the $7 and hope it works.

 

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