[filthyfingers]

Hi guy just used your instution to change mine on the 2004 envoy that I have
now did yours have a battery light showing on after you replaced it???

richardr

Same problem! After replacing the switch, and with the key out I was able to turn the key socket just enough for the battery light and the PRNDL to light up. VERY BAD! Thanks to awer25's pics, I removed the new switch and advanced the gear 1 position, to match the photos and BINGO! Works like a champ!

Thanks everybody and awer25!

 

[puget]

ignition system cover problems

I am having problems separating the covers to get my ignition switch out on 2007 envoy with a 5.3. Could someone please give me some advice? Puget

 

[filthyfingers]

I am having problems separating the covers to get my ignition switch out on 2007 envoy with a 5.3. Could someone please give me some advice? Puget

I assume you are referring to the 3 piece plastic/rubber shroud around the column. It took me a while since I was worried that I would break it. However with a little coaxing and gentle prying at the seams from the back side first, it all came apart and then reassembled okay.

 

[Daddy Mitzo]

im waiting for my switch to arrive (prob this afternoon) and im going to change mine today. any pointers guys i should watch out or watch for? and i ordered the GM# 15242754 should i have ordered another the reason i ask because ill prob go through this again in a few years

 

[Daddy Mitzo]

k i installed mine, i messed up the pattern and had to keep taking it out and trying it again but i got it after a few minutes. if you ever mess up or forget the pattern ill give you a tip: when youre getting close if you try and turn the ignition without the key the battery light will come. in this case take the switch out move it one notch over and you should be good to go. and be very careful with the clip which hold the switch in i broke mine and i had to put some crazy glue just to be sure but if you do bust the clip even without it itll hold nice and tight in place. but next time i need to change mine and going to have a lot of fun undoing that crazy glue.

ps i also noticed envoy/trailblazers are very easy to steal when i had the switch connected and in my hands i pushed it all the way and the engine started (didnt start everytime) and i was like whaaat lol looked at my keys sitting on the passanger seat, put it in drive and it went

 

[the roadie]

... any pointers guys i should watch out or watch for?...

Yeah. Don't break your clip. :dielaugh: Oops, too late.

 

[Daddy Mitzo]

I changed my ign switch today and I'm in worse of a situation that I was, the prob where the chime stays on when I take out the key is still occurring and now when I start the car there's a second delay (when my key is turned all the way) for the engine to start

 

[DVelasco68]

the teeth probably aren't aligned correctly... take it out and try again....

As for me, my 3/36 warranty expired 8/1/2010...

Guess what, I drive to Dunkin Donuts/Baskin Robbins just now to get my kids a shake, come out, key in the ignition, turn it over.... All the lights go out.... dead..

Try and pull the key out.... stuck... open the driver door, instr panel comes back on, air blasting radio on... turn off everything, try and turn over ign again... All the lights go out.... dead... again...

open door again - nothing, pop the hood.... , instr panel comes back on, air blasting radio on... again...

Did this 5-6 times finally took the key out and walked home.... 1/3 mile with the kids...

Guess I'll be going to the dealer to pick up an ign switch.... At least I'm legally parked...

I changed my ign switch today and I'm in worse of a situation that I was, the prob where the chime stays on when I take out the key is still occurring and now when I start the car there's a second delay (when my key is turned all the way) for the engine to start

 

[Daddy Mitzo]

you can find them for much cheaper on ebay

the teeth probably aren't aligned correctly... take it out and try again....

As for me, my 3/36 warranty expired 8/1/2010...

Guess what, I drive to Dunkin Donuts/Baskin Robbins just now to get my kids a shake, come out, key in the ignition, turn it over.... All the lights go out.... dead..

Try and pull the key out.... stuck... open the driver door, instr panel comes back on, air blasting radio on... turn off everything, try and turn over ign again... All the lights go out.... dead... again...

open door again - nothing, pop the hood.... , instr panel comes back on, air blasting radio on... again...

Did this 5-6 times finally took the key out and walked home.... 1/3 mile with the kids...

Guess I'll be going to the dealer to pick up an ign switch.... At least I'm legally parked...

 

[mdblazer]

Positioning the ignition switch

Installing the switch in the right position is a bit tricky. I found you need the battery on and with the swicth connected but not installed and looking at it facing the drivers door turn the gears clockwise one tooth at a time until the lights on the dash go off. The switch is not in one of the spots where the gears click into a position. The last light to go off is the battery. When the battery light goes off slide the switch back in. You may have to fiddle with the lock cylinder or when in the battery light will come back on. This means you are one tooth off. Pull it back out and turn one tooth again and try.

Hopr this helps, it took me about 15 min for this job with the help of this site. Unfortunately it was not the cause of my electrical problem, so to the dealership it goes to find out what is wrong.:crazy:

 

[a yazan]

recently replaced mine on 2002 ext , first i disconnect the battery , the clip was stuck and difficult to remove , but after some trying i removed it , but i make a mistake , while removing the switch the gear position was changed .
and the big problem that the dealer give me another part no. i give him the VIN no for my tb .they give me 15242754
and the old one was 12450251
i installed the new one , but i messed up the old gear position , but am keep trying , one by one , every time was wrong position , I am DIY beginner but I can understand what this switch gear making different, until i reach the right position , no battery lamp nothing wrong , i start the engine and its working fine
thank you trailvoy , thanks to all members post any thing helped me

but now i am afraid from what i read maybe wrong position cause another problems like disable airbags or door locks or battery drain ... ?
better to mark the gear positions with red marker before removing the clip
I am not reassured untill i make atrip, the problem only appeared during the long travel.

 

[DVelasco68]

Dude,

I just took my ignition switch to my dealer today, and my switch also said part# 15242754.... he told me that that is a casting part number (etched on the part itself) and not the real part number which is 12450251... so basically they are the same...

I will give you my experience.... REVISED

There are four locked positions for the key starting counter-clockwise:
1. ignition off (key out)
2. accessories only (when you click a little)
3. accessories / on (run position, after car is started)
4. crank the starter (spring loaded, must be pushed foward and it will return to position 3. after you let go)...

you have to make sure you did not pull the wires too hard when you removed the ignition switch, as this has happened to a few people, and they've had to tighten the two wires on top of the column...

next you have to make sure that the teeth line up to one of the above positions, AND the key set to the same position...

if you scroll the ignition switch all the way to the right ( I believe ) the teeth have a gap in the teeth (looks like missing teeth) that is position 1, if you go all the way you go all the way to the right, it stops that is position 3., If you force it further to the right, (spring loaded) that is position 4... will never install in this position...

depending on how you installed it (key in or out), is how you want to install it... either positions 1, 2. or 3. is what you want to match up the key position to... Key out position 1 is probably the easiest, as the tumbler is locked, and the teeth should easily line up... I ended up moving the ignition switch just a little between the gap in the teeth 1. and position 2. with the key out of the ignition, that ended up yielding the perfect position for my car, and it was the second adjustment I needed to make to get it perfect...

hope this helps...

recently replaced mine on 2002 ext , first i disconnect the battery , the clip was stuck and difficult to remove , but after some trying i removed it , but i make a mistake , while removing the switch the gear position was changed .
and the big problem that the dealer give me another part no. i give him the VIN no for my tb .they give me 15242754
and the old one was 12450251
i installed the new one , but i messed up the old gear position , but am keep trying , one by one , every time was wrong position , I am DIY beginner but I can understand what this switch gear making different, until i reach the right position , no battery lamp nothing wrong , i start the engine and its working fine
thank you trailvoy , thanks to all members post any thing helped me

but now i am afraid from what i read maybe wrong position cause another problems like disable airbags or door locks or battery drain ... ?
better to mark the gear positions with red marker before removing the clip
I am not reassured untill i make atrip, the problem only appeared during the long travel.

 

[a yazan]

Dude,

I just took my ignition switch to my dealer today, and my switch also said part# 15242754.... he told me that that is a casting part number (etched on the part itself) and not the real part number which is 12450251... so basically they are the same...

I will give you my experience.... REVISED

There are four locked positions for the key starting counter-clockwise:
1. ignition off (key out)
2. accessories only (when you click a little)
3. accessories / on (run position, after car is started)
4. crank the starter (spring loaded, must be pushed foward and it will return to position 3. after you let go)...

you have to make sure you did not pull the wires too hard when you removed the ignition switch, as this has happened to a few people, and they've had to tighten the two wires on top of the column...

next you have to make sure that the teeth line up to one of the above positions, AND the key set to the same position...

if you scroll the ignition switch all the way to the right ( I believe ) the teeth have a gap in the teeth (looks like missing teeth) that is position 1, if you go all the way you go all the way to the right, it stops that is position 3., If you force it further to the right, (spring loaded) that is position 4... will never install in this position...

depending on how you installed it (key in or out), is how you want to install it... either positions 1, 2. or 3. is what you want to match up the key position to... Key out position 1 is probably the easiest, as the tumbler is locked, and the teeth should easily line up... I ended up moving the ignition switch just a little between the gap in the teeth 1. and position 2. with the key out of the ignition, that ended up yielding the perfect position for my car, and it was the second adjustment I needed to make to get it perfect...

hope this helps...

thank you sir for your post .. its helps me allot , after replacing the switch i still have the same problem , now i will reinstall it , after reading your post its give a good idea .
ok now , with key out and locked . i will remove the switch and align the position to position 1 . and reinstall it ?!

 

[jimmyjam]

hopped in the truck this morning, engine light was on, engine was stumbling, turned it off and back on - no go. code p1682 was present. ignition switch? thank you internet, replaced and i'm back up and running.

just some info:

Autozone has Duralast pn LS1115. all markings are exactly like OEM. $7 cheaper than dealer PLUS limited lifetime warranty. (plus they're open until 9pm which is the only reason i went there in the first place)

SCUMBAG MOVE COMING UP:
I am going to wait a month and warranty out the original so i can keep a spare in the car (along with two small screwdrivers). technically i rationalize my lack of ethics because it is going to fail again anyway. I was 'lucky' enough to have it fail in the driveway but maybe next time I won't be so lucky

 

[the roadie]

So GM's incompetent design team screws you (and many of us) but you're going to take it out on Autozone and victimize THEM? I don't get it. Just buy another spare off Ebay for $3 like I did. :hopeless :no:

 

[jimmyjam]

aint no $3 switches on there now

 

[07_TB_RIDER]

aint no $3 switches on there now

 

[the roadie]

aint no $3 switches on there now

Situational ethics are a debate that can't end well.

 

[jimmyjam]

agreed. for example, maybe the $3 switch "fell off of a truck"

 

[07_TB_RIDER]

agreed. for example, maybe the $3 switch "fell off of a truck"

:rotfl: