I have an '02 TB and it was running like crap. Auto Zone gave me a p1345 code so I replaced the cam sensor. This didn't help so I replaced the plugs. A few days later I cleaned the throttle body. (I disconnected the battery for at least an hour while doing these.) After I cleaned the throttle body, I took it around the block to see how it ran. When I came to a stop the "Reduced Engine Power" light came on and it wouldn't go more than 20 MPH. Drove it home and cut it off (and the REP light went out) then took it around the block again and the same thing happened. Fooled it enough to get it back to Auto Zone and got they p1345 code and they came up with a p0105 and p1514 code. I exchanged for a new cam sensor but still get the other 2 codes. Did I screw something up when cleaning the throttle body or do I need a new MAP sensor? It's still running pretty rich. Thanks!
burnout65
The code PO105 (MAP circuit malfunction) and code P1514 (Throttle Body Performance) appearing at the same time after throttle body cleaning suggests not everything was re-installed correctly. GMs explanation of the cause of the codes as air leaks at throttle body mounting area and intake manifold sealing surfaces, and/or vacuum hoses split, kinked, or mis-routed.
03 gmc envoy xl slt po105 p1345 p1514 i've changed cam sensor crank sensor solenoid sensor throttle body o2 sensor and map or maf sensor fuel regulator ignition coil spark plugs and still running rough i even change the oil
@djbigboy2005 - you are shirt tailing on an 11 year old thread. Please start a brand new thread of your very own and we will be more than happy to assist you.
Please remember to include Year, Make, Model, Sub-Model, Trim Level, Engine Size, Mileage, all Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs), what the problem is/was you are trying to correct, and please list all the parts, their part numbers, brand, and where you purchased them for the parts you replaced. This is much needed information as part quality can very big time between brands and brand lines (e.g. value line, daily driver, or premium). Where you purchased the parts is important in order to determine if you received counterfeit parts instead of legitimate parts.
Please stop throwing money and parts at the vehicle and let us assist you in diagnosing what is wrong with your vehicle. That will be quite a bit less expensive than shooting the parts cannon at it.
Just so you are made aware, DTCs never ever tell people that a given part is bad, failing, needs replacing, etc. A DTC tells people that there is a problem with a circuit or a system. Many times, the problem turns out to be a broken wire, a loose electrical connection, or something as simple as an electrical connector becoming unplugged.
Please remember to include Year, Make, Model, Sub-Model, Trim Level, Engine Size, Mileage, all Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs), what the problem is/was you are trying to correct, and please list all the parts, their part numbers, brand, and where you purchased them for the parts you replaced. This is much needed information as part quality can very big time between brands and brand lines (e.g. value line, daily driver, or premium). Where you purchased the parts is important in order to determine if you received counterfeit parts instead of legitimate parts.
Please stop throwing money and parts at the vehicle and let us assist you in diagnosing what is wrong with your vehicle. That will be quite a bit less expensive than shooting the parts cannon at it.
Just so you are made aware, DTCs never ever tell people that a given part is bad, failing, needs replacing, etc. A DTC tells people that there is a problem with a circuit or a system. Many times, the problem turns out to be a broken wire, a loose electrical connection, or something as simple as an electrical connector becoming unplugged.
Welllllllllllllllllllll .... now the engine kinda sparkles in the sunshine with all those new parts.
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