There are very likely error codes stored - they'll be B for body (followed by 4 digits). A generic obd2 code reader won't read them. So what do you have access to for that? Without the codes you'll be shooting in the dark.

 

No codes. No SES light either

 

"To begin with"? ????????

It could go as far back to a misdirected idea that to "reset" the modules or computer or whatever other wacky idea needed to disconnect the battery for ... was the Original Sin.

1. You have a control module that is not playing according to Hoyle.
2. The only repair is (almost always is .... ) replace the bad module ... wherever it is.
3. In the future ignore charlatans (if it was they led you astray in this situation) and NEVER DISCONNECT YOUR BATTERY.
4. Report back.

 

Let's back up a minute...

You said you replaced the mode actuator because of "popping noises." This is pretty typical of one failure mode of those actuators. The center drive gears are crappy plastic things that eventually crack. But then it often results in the position sensor (on another plastic gear in there) getting out of whack so that BCM doesn't "know" where the door is so it closes it down.

a) How did you know the popping was the MODE actuator? Right above that is the defrost door actuator. More or less next to it is the temp control actuator. Two other actuators with the same cheap, crappy, plastic gears.

b) Before the replacement was it blowing out the face?

For now, don't disconnect the battery. There is no need for that. But pull the HVAC-B fuse (I forget the # - look on the diagram) for like 30 secs. Plug it back in. Start it up and don't touch the HVAC controls for a good 1.5-2 mins. See what happens.

This is probably not going to help, btw, but is a place to start. The reason I think it probably won't help is that you said it worked after you first replaced the actuator. What we still don't know is whether it worked BEFORE you replaced the actuator.

Mostly you need the codes. Like I said, it has five wires. That's a lot of failure modes. (There's a constant 12V signal, a 5V ref signal, a position signal, a 5V control...)

When you had the actuator off, did you happen to flop the door around by hand, and if so, did it move freely?

 

Let's back up a minute...

You said you replaced the mode actuator because of "popping noises." This is pretty typical of one failure mode of those actuators. The center drive gears are crappy plastic things that eventually crack. But then it often results in the position sensor (on another plastic gear in there) getting out of whack so that BCM doesn't "know" where the door is so it closes it down.

a) How did you know the popping was the MODE actuator? Right above that is the defrost door actuator. More or less next to it is the temp control actuator. Two other actuators with the same cheap, crappy, plastic gears.

b) Before the replacement was it blowing out the face?

For now, don't disconnect the battery. There is no need for that. But pull the HVAC-B fuse (I forget the # - look on the diagram) for like 30 secs. Plug it back in. Start it up and don't touch the HVAC controls for a good 1.5-2 mins. See what happens.

This is probably not going to help, btw, but is a place to start. The reason I think it probably won't help is that you said it worked after you first replaced the actuator. What we still don't know is whether it worked BEFORE you replaced the actuator.

Mostly you need the codes. Like I said, it has five wires. That's a lot of failure modes. (There's a constant 12V signal, a 5V ref signal, a position signal, a 5V control...)

When you had the actuator off, did you happen to flop the door around by hand, and if so, did it move freely?

Yes it was working just popping more frequently and louder. I know it’s the one popping because when I removed it I plugged the connector into it and it was the one making same noises. The door moved freely when I inspected it. After the install and to my surprise it worked without having to reset anything. It has worked perfect for almost a week then poof! No dash vents!