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'05 Chevy TB EXT
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Thanks --- I just fool around with those videos --- maybe now that I've got a new 'puter ----

Win11 HP HP Laptop 17 Business Computer
17.3" HD+ Touchscreen
AMD 6-Core Ryzen 5 5500U (>i7-1160G7)
40GB DDR4 512GB SSD + 1TB HDD
AMD Radeon Graphics USB-C Win11 Silver
+ 32GB MicroSD Card


---------------- I can make some better (read: edited and scored) videos in the future.
Now I need to know what Win11 Silver is.​
 

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2006 chevy
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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
Thanks --- I just fool around with those videos --- maybe now that I've got a new 'puter ----

Win11 HP HP Laptop 17 Business Computer
17.3" HD+ Touchscreen
AMD 6-Core Ryzen 5 5500U (>i7-1160G7)
40GB DDR4 512GB SSD + 1TB HDD
AMD Radeon Graphics USB-C Win11 Silver
+ 32GB MicroSD Card


---------------- I can make some better (read: edited and scored) videos in the future.
Now I need to know what Win11 Silver is.​
Whatever it is, it's better than Win11 Bronze.
 

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Premium Member
'05 Chevy TB EXT
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ZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,

tomorrow ......................
 

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2007 chevy trailblazer_ls
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You said there was "lots of rust", there is a large ground on the driver side that if corroded can cause all kinds of headaches like the ones you described.
I'd go through the grounds and check them carefully.
 

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'05 Chevy TB EXT
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Mad guy ---> of course, you're right!

I shouldda mentioned that too --- and that most electrical problems of the automotive kind are in the ground circuits.

There is one bad boy under the center console that I had some trouble with as it was very corroded.

I got a TSB on it and did it myself --- it was kinda hard and if I had my druthers next time - and assuming I have to ever GO THERE AGAIN! --- I'll just move it to a better-to-reach-for-old-guys position and be done with it.

BTW --- fixing the ground has NOT fixed my P2122 problem.

Enough about me ---
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
You said there was "lots of rust", there is a large ground on the driver side that if corroded can cause all kinds of headaches like the ones you described.
I'd go through the grounds and check them carefully.
I wish that I had read this about six hours ago when I was 175 miles closer to the rig. Thank you for mentioning it. Where on the driver's side is it? I think I recall on pickups, one on the frame rail below the driver's seat. Is it in the same area?

As to the amount of rust, well, to me ANY rust is rusty. What I see is all surface rust with some tiny bubbles (in my wine) here and there so it's far, far from what I have seen in pictures, but still enough to be an issue and will be checked. Once I find the ground locations. I will go through the Chilton information I have and see if it shows ground locations.
 

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2004 chevy trailblazer_lt
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I'm attaching a pdf which will show all the ground locations. Hope it helps!

I'm not sure if the above mentioned driver's side ground is the same as this one - there is a ground inside the passenger compartment on the driver's side just to the right of where the right foot rests on the gas pedal. It is under the carpet. It has been known to rust and cause problems.
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
Mad guy ---> of course, you're right!

I shouldda mentioned that too --- and that most electrical problems of the automotive kind are in the ground circuits.

There is one bad boy under the center console that I had some trouble with as it was very corroded.

I got a TSB on it and did it myself --- it was kinda hard and if I had my druthers next time - and assuming I have to ever GO THERE AGAIN! --- I'll just move it to a better-to-reach-for-old-guys position and be done with it.

BTW --- fixing the ground has NOT fixed my P2122 problem.

Enough about me ---
Well, I failed. I tried to remove the lock cylinder to ensure that the ignition switch is properly indexed but I could not get it to release. I turned the key to the run position and inserted my pointy pick in the proper hole (keep it clean here, guys) but I could not release the key cylinder. I couldn't even feel anything in there that felt like a release pin. After flailing and failing at it for awhile, I found that I had a small enough and long enough Allen bit on a socket and tried that, but no love there either. So, rather that make a small, intermittent problem a big, permanent problem, I gave up. We both read the instructions in the Chilton manual and her Haynes manual which say the same thing. I have popped out key cylinders before a couple of times and I know that it isn't rocket surgery, but I just couldn't make it happen.

Anyway, right now she isn't using the fob at all to lock and unlock her car and she us on day 9, I think she said with no problems. If this continues with no problems, I think that it's a hint. Another thing that has happened twice recently is the alarm has sounded after she was sitting in the car. She started it and it stopped, so that's good.

I really think that the problem is in the tailgate module. As I typed that last sentence, I remembered that somewhere in the past, the tailgate has been lightly dented. So maybe something there was displaced and its now rubbing wrong. I know that the TGM has a serial data line to it, so maybe there is an issue there. Since her instrument panel randomly goes dead with random things working or not working, there may be a connection (no pun intended) betwixt the two. I guess it's worth a try if it doesn't start, to bang on the tailgate. If it suddenly starts after doing that, I can focus there. It's kinda like a fuel pump or starter. If you bang on them and they suddenly start to work, you know the problem. I have heard it works on teenagers as well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 · (Edited)
I'm attaching a pdf which will show all the ground locations. Hope it helps!

I'm not sure if the above mentioned driver's side ground is the same as this one - there is a ground inside the passenger compartment on the driver's side just to the right of where the right foot rests on the gas pedal. It is under the carpet. It has been known to rust and cause problems.
Thanks, man. I think I could find by your description but I can't open the PDF. Most likely because I'm doing something wrong. Sigh...

Edit: I opened the file. Why it wouldn't before? I dunno. Stupid technologys
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
Mad guy ---> of course, you're right!

I shouldda mentioned that too --- and that most electrical problems of the automotive kind are in the ground circuits.

There is one bad boy under the center console that I had some trouble with as it was very corroded.

I got a TSB on it and did it myself --- it was kinda hard and if I had my druthers next time - and assuming I have to ever GO THERE AGAIN! --- I'll just move it to a better-to-reach-for-old-guys position and be done with it.

BTW --- fixing the ground has NOT fixed my P2122 problem.

Enough about me ---
One other thing that I did was some voltage drop tests. It wasn't comprehensive, but it was something. Battery to main junction in fuse block was .002 volts, and main junction to some fuses was about the same, but to the cluster of fuses in the center of the underhood fuse block was .145 or so and one was .215 or so. I removed that fuse and reinstalled it and it dropped to .190 or so. There was some powdery residue in the fuse slot, but the fuse showed good contact witness marks. It is on my todo list to pull the cover and inspect for what's going on.

As an unrelated side note, I serviced my Audi before going up there and found that my neighbors cat needs to get busy and take care of the mice that ate the wires to my oil level sensor and lower coolant temp sensor. I got those sorted and was looking forward to a trip without those warnings on my dash. Second start after fixing that and my fuel guage quit working. Big sigh...

Then, to make matters worse, I think the battery is dying in it as well. It has barely turned over a few times and then after stopping for a few minutes with my running lights on, the battery was dead. Those few minutes would not kill a good battery, so I'll charge it and do a load test on it. Fun, fun, fun.
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
Going bakwards on your post ....

1. there may be a transmission problem
2. the REP light should be lit if the computer won't allow throttle responce much over 10% or so, with a limited top speed of about 25 MPH.
3. Intermittent running ... if you mean it shuts off sometimes ... COULD he a bad ignition switch ... that's a common problem.
4. Don't hope on those Chilton paperbacks ... they're too generic.
5. Is the SECURITY light on?
7. The fob has ZERO effect on cranking UNLESS the computer is in SECURITY MODE. The horn should be making a lot of noise too. Does the horn even work?
8. The fob will NOT open the tailgate ... it's a manual liftgate, not powered ... after it is unlocked. The dual spring shocks are not sufficiently strong enuff to open it either.
Just a random update. She has stopped using her keyfob to open the car and has had no issues with it not starting. It's only been a couple of weeks, but this is promising. I'm probably wrong, but I think that this points to the Tailgate Module. It seems that when the fob is used, occasionally something gets confused in the TGM and it prevents it from starting.

Maybe. I'm just guessing here. What do you think?
 

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Just a random update. She has stopped using her keyfob to open the car and has had no issues with it not starting. It's only been a couple of weeks, but this is promising. I'm probably wrong, but I think that this points to the Tailgate Module. It seems that when the fob is used, occasionally something gets confused in the TGM and it prevents it from starting.

Maybe. I'm just guessing here. What do you think?
I still don't think there's any feedback from the tailgate that denys or permits starting the engine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
I'm attaching a pdf which will show all the ground locations. Hope it helps!

I'm not sure if the above mentioned driver's side ground is the same as this one - there is a ground inside the passenger compartment on the driver's side just to the right of where the right foot rests on the gas pedal. It is under the carpet. It has been known to rust and cause problems.
Hey there, again. I found bulletin 04-08-45-010. I think that this is the one that you are talking about.
 

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I guess you told me that already. So you are thinking that it's just a coincidence. OK.
At this point, I'm not totally sure of anything.

It might be haunted for all I know --- but that the fob can keep the engine from starting in any way intrigues me and also is rejected by my own sense of logic.
Say! You didn't talk about that fob --- is this one that remote starts the engine?

Gads! I hope not!

If it is - delete all the things I said so far.
 

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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
At this point, I'm not totally sure of anything.

It might be haunted for all I know --- but that the fob can keep the engine from starting in any way intrigues me and also is rejected by my own sense of logic.
Say! You didn't talk about that fob --- is this one that remote starts the engine?

Gads! I hope not!

If it is - delete all the things I said so far.
It is a factory fob without remote start.

We have actually discussed demonic possession, and haven't ruled it out.

Today, it didn't start for her. She then tried the keyfob and it didn't work either. You have me 99% convinced that the keyfob not working is not causing it to not start, so I'm not thinking about that, but what I am thinking about is that when the fob doesn't work, then no start. Something is taking out both circuits.

Aha. So what is common to both circuits?

Or could one CAN circuit be taking both modules offline? If there are other modules that don't work, that suggests a CAN problem.

Of course I'm assuming this has a CAN system. I'm only slightly familiar with them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #38 ·
At this point, I'm not totally sure of anything.
New info today, but I don't know if it's a new symptom.

The last time that it would not start, when she went out to get in the car, the dome lights did not come on. After she turned the dimmer knob, they came on. Looking at the schematics, it looks like the interior lights go through the BCM and the door locks go through the BCM.

The power windows go through the BCM as well and the Passenger window controller is bad. It won't operate the window, but I switched it with the drivers module and it worked and the drivers side didn't. Maybe that module is screwing up the BCM and ECU? She could unplug the module and see how it works then, but she is very hesitant to even pop out the trim for that module.

Big sigh of exasperation.
 

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Just a quickie here ---- you didn't by any chance spill some water on a witch - did you?

This could be the whole problem.
 
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