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2002 chevy trailblazer_ls
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I need to replace the tie rod on the drivers side soon and I come across the choices of 14mm and 16mm threads. Which one does a 2002 Trailblazer LS take? Also my truck rattles when I drive over bumpy roads. I think it just might be my running boards not being tightened but I have a feeling it is my suspension. Does anybody know anything about this too? This stuff is driving my up the wall.:confused:
 

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2002 gmc envoy_slt
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I can almost guarantee the rattling over bumpy roads is going to be the stabilizer bar end-links. When they wear enough to loosen up, they sound and feel a little like the whole front end needs replacing. I have a spare set of Moog links in my 'store' room for the next time they need replacing. - The after market units have grease fittings to hopefully last longer with regular lubing. (BTW: Sometimes the nuts simply loosen and cause the same sound/feeling, depending upon the miles on the current units, they may only need to be re-tightened).

If you have the original inner and outer tie rod ends, they should be 14mm for 2002. They changed to 16mm in 2003. Now, if you're replacing the inner as well as the outer, you can buy the heavier 16mm parts.......the size of the outer is dependent on what inner unit is installed on the rack. (If they've previously been replaced, they could be 16mm, so you'll need to measure them or bring one to the parts store).
 

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2002 gmc envoy_sle
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I had this same dilemma, luckily I work at a machine shop and was able to use a set of digital calipers that had both metric and inch measurements. If you don't have access to a set, I would suggest buying a regular set to use then convert the measurement to inch size. You could even try to return them after if you wanted to. Just measure the threaded portion, if it's around .551" then it's 14mm, if it's around .630 then it's 16mm. Good luck.
 

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2004 gmc
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I had an AHA moment after the last time this question was asked. Forget the digital calipers that almost nobody owns (but they should).

Just take a 14mm wrench out to the vehicle. If it fits over the threads, you have a 14mm tie rod end. If it doesn't, you've got the 16mm. If you don't have a full set of wrenches, you should AT LEAST have a 15mm. Same test applies.
 

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I had an AHA moment after the last time this question was asked. Forget the digital calipers that almost nobody owns (but they should).

Just take a 14mm wrench out to the vehicle. If it fits over the threads, you have a 14mm tie rod end. If it doesn't, you've got the 16mm. If you don't have a full set of wrenches, you should AT LEAST have a 15mm. Same test applies.
You know, I bought a $12 dial caliper from sears just to measure my front sway bar diameter. Too bad I don't have a 1.74" wrench. :suicide: Good tip, though, roadie! :thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Cool , that has been helpful. I measured the tie rod and it was 14mm. I should probably replace both inner and outer tie rods on both sides right? It is only the drivers side that i see need replacing.
 

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2003 chevy trailblazer_ltz
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Just an "FYI": I recently replaced L/R tie rods on a 2003 TB which were 16mm. I went or called every autoparts store in the area for a 16mm x 1.50 "jam nut".

Nobody had this nut..not even the local Chevy dealerships. They were happy to order 2 of them for me for about $12 and 3-5 days delivery.

Advanced Auto had 16mm x 2.0 (does not fit 2003 TB) and Ace Hardware had a 16mm x 1.50 but not a strong enough grade for about 0.90 cents each.

I also purchased a Pitman Puller from Advanced Auto and Autozone which were both too small to fit around the yoke in changing out shocks and tierods. I ended up renting a kit from Advanced Auto with a tie rod puller that worked great.

Good luck, this forum was very helpful!
 

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2002 gmc envoy_slt
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I had an AHA moment after the last time this question was asked. Forget the digital calipers that almost nobody owns (but they should).

Just take a 14mm wrench out to the vehicle. If it fits over the threads, you have a 14mm tie rod end. If it doesn't, you've got the 16mm. If you don't have a full set of wrenches, you should AT LEAST have a 15mm. Same test applies.
And that is exactly what I did when I replaced mine a month or 2 ago too :thumbsup: :thumbsup:
 

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Why? Replacements I've bought have come with a new nut. And you can re-use the old one, couldn't you?
I thought the 16mm x 1.50 jam nut would have been included, but mine just came with: the nut to attach tie rod to the ballstud, a pin, and grease fitting.

I ordered the tie rod off of ebay from macautopartsdiscounts for about $71 including delivery..smooth transaction. The reason I ordered new ones: per the Haynes Repair Manual "the manufacturer recommends replacing the jam nut with a new one whenever it has been removed." So I followed their recommendation and I am glad that I did..because I rounded one out a little trying to get it off.

But now the job is complete and I am glad I save some money. This forum is informative-Thanks
 

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I thought the 16mm x 1.50 jam nut would have been included, but mine just came with: the nut to attach tie rod to the ballstud, a pin, and grease fitting.

I ordered the tie rod off of ebay from macautopartsdiscounts for about $71 including delivery..smooth transaction. The reason I ordered new ones: per the Haynes Repair Manual "the manufacturer recommends replacing the jam nut with a new one whenever it has been removed." So I followed their recommendation and I am glad that I did..because I rounded one out a little trying to get it off.

But now the job is complete and I am glad I save some money. This forum is informative-Thanks
Too bad yours is 16mm and not 14mm because I got an extra 14mm nut with one of my tie rod ends.:duh:
 

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$71 for a tie rod :eek: that didnt come with a jam nut? :ugh:

I bought both of my tie rods that came with jam nuts and lifetime warranties for less than $70!
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
sorry its been awhile since I updated this thread I started. Anyways, I just replaced the sway bar links which was the problem of the rattling and now I will be replacing the upper and lower ball joints on the drivers side. I had a buddy look at the truck and he said that the ball joints are probably causing the tie rod to look liek it needs to be rreplaced. I guess I will see at the the end of the week. I live in germany and since I have an APO address its a pain to find websites to ship to me so I use www.discountautoparts.com and they ship to Europe in 4 days! I believe their sway bar links were 75 bucks a pop. Thanks for the help so far! I feel pretty damn good now that I have started working on my own TB!:woot:
 

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2004 gmc
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It's very easy to distinguish bad ball joints from tie rod ends, if you look very closely at the tie rod end when somebody ELSE wiggles the tire horizontally. The horizontal part of the tie rod will move in relation to the vertical pin that goes through the steering knuckle.

Perhaps your buddy just wiggled the tires from the outside and didn't have anybody look closely at the tie rod end and he's guessing. You're so remote and the projects are so different that I hate to see anybody make a mistake in diagnosis, especially when it's so easy to do it right the first time.

Wiggling the tire might also show looseness in upper or lower control arm bushings. Again, you need somebody on the inside of the tire to be looking.

Statistically, judging by the number of reports here on trailvoy, tie rod ends seem to go bad about four times more often than ball joints.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
How bout I take a few pictures of it and post it for yall to look at? It would be awesome to have an opinion like yalls. Pictures might not be the best way but I could also post maybe a video if that would help. I ordered my lower ball joint today and hopefully it will be here Friday!
 
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