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Hey everyone! I have a 2002 Envoy SLT with 177,xxx miles, just had a tuneup, and replaced the VC gasket and intake gasket. Now it’s not leaking from those two places, but I found out a new leak from a hose on top of the engine under the cover?!
Any ideas? Thanks in advance!
IMG_6072.jpg



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I wrote a short exposè on that KV Hose and how to clean both it and the CV side of that system.

Search my name here and you'll find that post.

I'm too uber-tired after a mega-long day fishing in Montana and I'm going to bed..... or I'd do it.
 

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I wrote a short exposè on that KV Hose and how to clean both if and the CV side of that system.

Search my name here and you'll find that post.

I'm too uber-tired after a mega-long day fishing in Montana and I'm going to bed..... or I'd do it.
Thank you very much for your help! I will look into it ASAP!


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Discussion Starter #4

Did you mean this hose?


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Can someone please confirm if this is the vacuum hose I’m looking for?



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I posted that it is NOT the hose you want.
So sorry to sound like a pest, but I honestly didn’t get a notification at all about your reply...would it be too much to ask your guidance on locating the correct hose?


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Discussion Starter #9
Thank you very much!


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Now... take the whole hose off - both ends - and using at least 75lb compressed air - blow air into the lower fitting... the one that "disappears" into the area where the head gasket should be. It will be a metal nipple ... maybe somewhat bent upward, IIRC.

Turn your head away when you blast the air to it - it might blow some gunk back at you.

This will clear out the actual "CV" side of the PCV system.

Afterward, you can put some Berrymans B12 Chemtool in the line before you button it back up.

Don't start the engine yet... you now have to remove all the chocolate colored slime in the air box. That is an emulsion of water and oil - and it is created by failure to adequately remove condensate (naturally occurring moisture from the atmosphere, internal combustion by-products and the air flowing into the throttle body that contains humidity, as it collects in the oil pan).

It will take a while and actually getting the engine up to normal operating temperature for a few miles to purge all the collected condensate outta your engine. It will go away. It will take a little while for it to finally be cleared and cleaned out.

You might've noticed that same chocolate emulsion inside your oil cap ... and in extreme cases, coating your dipstick. That's your sign ... you need to observe these abnormalities and investigate them before they cost money to repair.... BIG money!

It takes heat, dry air, mileage and time to clean this gunk out. You might consider a fresh oil change if you're close to due, since fresh oil won't have expended all its protective additives trying to save the bearings, cam and followers entertaining all the moisture that collected before you make this repair.

Using a "cold air induction" intake just makes this problem worse... for not just a single reason.

The air is not drawn from an out-of-the way, cleaner place - the KV side of the PCV system is totally bypassed rendering the PCV system useless and there is no clean air intake allowed into the engine to help keep it clean if moisture and blow-by gasses that form acids that attack critical bearing and rolling surfaces.

K&N Cold Air Packs are engine killers. Full stop. Don't get sucked in by them ... they damage things.

HTH .... jpv
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thank you for the great write-up! Will follow through ASAP


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