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2003 trailblazer_lt
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:eek::x:cool:

^Exactly... For competitions you will see many that have amps that will far outweigh the alts capabilties and that's why you need to have all of the extra reserve from the batteries... These systems are not for daily purpose and many competitors also use larger wheeled type battery chargers to help recharge the batteries quicker.
Ok I see.....so how do i determine how many additional batts Ill need? Amps alone will require 330 - 350A on music and my alt is around 250A. Keep in mind I drive the truck everyday and dont compete.
 

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You could run one batt to each sub amp and a third smaller battery for the mids n highs. I would go either the kinetik hc2000's, the odyssey 2150's, or the dekka (i dont know their models, but one that can handle 2000 watts ea). This would give you that extra boost you system may need.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
Ok I see.....so how do i determine how many additional batts Ill need? Amps alone will require 330 - 350A on music and my alt is around 250A. Keep in mind I drive the truck everyday and dont compete.
Well the best way can be done by going to Kinetiks site and using their calculator... I'll save yeah some trouble finding it though... It can be found here: http://www.kinetikaudio.com/calc.asp
This will give you an idea of the amount of reserve you'll need (Kinetik or otherwise) :thumbsup:
 

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i have an 800 watt amp with my subs (max power rating) and when the audio shop installed my subs about a week later the car wouldnt start and would not make any noise .. i dsiconnected the subs and the car worked again, the chevy place even gave me a new ignition switch .. if i hook the subs and the leds in my car to a seperate battery do u think this will solve my starting issue?
 

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Discussion Starter #25
A secondary battery may not be the cure for you... it may very well be the stock battery not holding to it's full capacity... As I said in the pm, you may want to have it checked... If you do go with a new battery (for stock location) get a dry cell and preferably one with secondary terminals as it makes installing accessories much easier and then you know that there isn't a poor connection for the rest of the vehicles electrical system.
 

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A secondary battery may not be the cure for you... it may very well be the stock battery not holding to it's full capacity... As I said in the pm, you may want to have it checked... If you do go with a new battery (for stock location) get a dry cell and preferably one with secondary terminals as it makes installing accessories much easier and then you know that there isn't a poor connection for the rest of the vehicles electrical system.

A good alternative for this is the yellow top or similar:yes:

*side note, make sure you can use both locations thuogh:laugh: (I can only use the top post, well they have now become side post, will post pics)


PICTURE
 

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Discussion Starter #27
Yes, but in your case Aukland, We went with a 31 series (big mama jama) and for the replacement of a stock oem battery he could get by with a standard Optima or Orbital with the regular top and side posts... Not everybody goes with the one of the biggest batteries Optima makes for under the hood :p lol
 

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Yes, but in your case Aukland, We went with a 31 series (big mama jama) and for the replacement of a stock oem battery he could get by with a standard Optima or Orbital with the regular top and side posts... Not everybody goes with the one of the biggest batteries Optima makes for under the hood :p lol
lol, and it wasn't meant for under the hood of a TB:laugh:
 

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the stock battery seems fine
the car has never died on me and the meter on the dash reads 14 right in the middle maybe drops a notch below but nothing more
 

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Discussion Starter #30
the stock battery seems fine
the car has never died on me and the meter on the dash reads 14 right in the middle maybe drops a notch below but nothing more
Your voltage meter on the dash is only showing you the charging rate of the alternator... and with the vehicle not running (key "On") it will probably still read 12volts too... What I am suggesting is that you take the battery and have it load tested to check and see if it is holding it's reserve potential.
 

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2005 chevy trailblazer_ls
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Long time no post here... Trying to get back into things...

What about if I have the following amps?

(1) 200A
(3) 30 A

I do not want my amps to be starving for power or any blinking/dimming interior or headlights...
 

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Need some suggestions also for alternator size, just installed a Fosgate T1500-1BDCP (200amp) and T400-4 (100amp). THANKS!
 

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Request: What amps are being used? Model numbers are a plus.
(1) 200A - Sundown SAZ 2000D
(3) 30 A - Sundown SAX-100.4

Also, this is for daily use not competition; and then I only drive it on the weekends as I drive my company truck durring the week..

I want SQ, but I also want serious Bass... Its like I'm stuck between worlds...
 

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what dont you understand? it has 3 x 30 amp fuses, therefor it consumes 90 amps.
Originally, I had stated the fuses of my amps,
(1) 200A - Sundown SAZ 2000D
(3) 30 A - Sundown SAX-100.4

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Then you said,
oh 3x 30.
even if you ever do it, i think it would be enough. (OK, I'm guessing that was a crack as I have been working on this system for awhile)

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Then, I had said ""Not sure what you mean with 3x 30 ??? ""

Wasn't sure why you were telling me 3x30 (or 3x30=90) as I had already posted it above....

Thats what I didn't understand
 
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