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2004 chevy trailblazer_ls_ext
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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
On a different forum (for a different vehicle) I belong to, I started a thread entitled "What did you do to YOUR **** today?"
In the 9-1/2 years since I started it, it's had 376920 views and 3805 replies. Sometimes we do little things to our rides, but we think "Oh, nobodies going to be interested in me doing that!" so it doesn't get posted. But I'm sure we all like to see what others are doing, and they like to see what we're doing. It helps build a sense of community. It's like Red Green (http://www.redgreen.com/) used to say "Remember, I'm pullin' for ya! We're all in this together!"
So even if you don't think anybody else cares, we do! So go ahead and feel free to post what you did to your ride right here! Even if it was just a "little" thing!
I'll start:
When I get off work, especially during the warmer months of the year, my work shirt and the T-shirt I wear under it can rather 'damp'. Knowhutimean, Vern? The cloth seat in my '99 Grand Voyager, my previous daily driver, has a permanent discoloration because of that. I wanted to avoid that with my '04 TB, so I bought this seat cover https://www.autozone.com/interior/seat-cover/plasticolor-seat-cover/76635_0_0.
Install wasn't too bad, once I completely unbolted the seat and tipped it backwards! Getting the straps hooked up under the seat would have been next to impossible with all the stuff under that seat! But it's been on for about a month and it's holding up very well. For $30 I'm not expecting miracles, but so far I've been very pleased with it!

When I bought this TB, the drivers seat back did not recline or come forward. The entire seat would go forward and backward, up and down, and tilt forward or back, but the seat back would not move. The switch panels were barely hanging onto the seat, as well. I went to the U-Pull-It here in Lincoln, and found some switch panels which I installed at the same time as I installed the seat cover. I used the same seat switch that came on the replacement panel as it was identical to my old switch. I installed the panel and had all the power functions of my seat restored! :woohoo:
That was when I discovered that the round switch on the top left was different between my TB and whatever year the panels came from! :confused:
The switch controls the lumbar support in the seat. Mine was larger and had a plastic line down the center. This one is smaller, and has a cross pattern on it. The electrical connectors are way different, so this switch won't work on my TB. I will get the proper panel as soon as I find one in good shape. In the meantime, this panel is installed, and the old switch is still connected, just tucked up under the front of the seat. Ya does what ya got's to! :thumbsup:

So, the question remains: What did you do to YOUR TrailVoy today? ;)
 

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Today I attempted to change the upstream O2 sensor. Apparently, it is welded in the manifold or something. I'll have to attempt to heat it up or something.
 

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2003 gmc envoy_sle
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Seat switch panel Re: Flyboy 2610

My switch panel for the seat on my '03 Envoy got busted loose, the side of the seat cushion crushes down on it when exiting the car. Replacing it with a stock one is not likely to do any good. Thinking I might fabricate one. Keep looking at it and thinking how I may attack this. Right now it is just held loosely in place with long wire ties. I am thinking of trying to keep the switches and wiring as it is, just remaking the panel to move it down, maybe forward a bit, and mounting the original switches to it.
My '01 Blazer I'm trying to get rid of is no help for ideas. It is cool though that a lot of diagnostics and repairs I've seen here have also applied to the Blazer.
I think Flyboy may be referring to a "sister" enthusiasts forum to this one, as I've seen a "What have you done to . . ." for a vehicle I bought from my sister to replace the Blazer. These forums scare me sometimes, because mine are the first two vehicles I have had that are so electronic laden. But both forums have given me good info. I make it a habit to read all of the posts from the forum highlight newsletters of both, and have made me aware of certain issues before they became serious. I'm expecting to have to replace the ignition switch on the Envoy sometime in the near future, just from what I read. I also now understand why my tach, and rear window defogger likely doesn't work. Those hopefully will get tackled later this spring.
I'm medically disabled. You can't tell just to look at me. What used to be simple, now takes time. You'd never know I had built race cars from the ground up, by knowing my limitations now.
Sorry to run on :bonk:, but that's all the pent up stuff that rolls around in my head since I can't do much of these things anymore. :mad:
:thx
 

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2004 chevy trailblazer_ls_ext
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Discussion Starter #7
DDS-029, the 'other' forum deals with 67-72 F*rd trucks (don't want to get kicked off THIS forum!).
Sorry to hear about your disability. And you're not running on. Sometimes we all just have to vent a little.
I'd not really though about the switch panel being damaged form entering and exiting the vehicle, but now that you bring it up, I can see how that might happen. I'll have to keep an eye on that.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Cussing at them doesn't help either...don't ask how I know.:(
I haven't cursed at mine (yet), but I had a few choice words for my wife's '06 TB while trying to figure out how to get the brake light switch retaining clip off! I finally figured out that you have to pry the clip off the end of the brake booster rod pin, then push on the 90 degree bent part of the clip. It will slide towards the pin and come right off. Gave me a terrible time until I figured it out!
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Today I attempted to change the upstream O2 sensor. Apparently, it is welded in the manifold or something. I'll have to attempt to heat it up or something.
I have read that they are easier to remove if the engine is warm. Just don't burn yourself!
 

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DDS-029, the 'other' forum deals with 67-72 F*rd trucks (don't want to get kicked off THIS forum!).
Sorry to hear about your disability. And you're not running on. Sometimes we all just have to vent a little.
I'd not really though about the switch panel being damaged form entering and exiting the vehicle, but now that you bring it up, I can see how that might happen. I'll have to keep an eye on that.
Not the forum I was thinking of. The same people who do this forum also own the other. The S-10 Blazer served me well, but it was getting hard to "escape" the nickel and diming it was doing. It still would be good for use, or flipping if somone had the time and the ability to catch up with the things that have ro be done to it. A lot of things that have been repaired over the last few years are too new to just scrap it.
 

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2006 gmc trailblazer_ls
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Changed the spark plugs in my 5.3. Pass side was a pita mainly the front one. Everything went good except on drivers side by first cylinder the coolant temp sensor. I unplugged it and connector just fell apart. So now i have a hard start problem and check gauges and temp gauge dont work. Have new connector pigtail coming today. Ugh guess thats what i get unplugging it and its 13 yrs old.


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Discussion Starter #12
Drove my '04 to church, then took the wife to lunch. Her B-day was yesterday. Came home and installed 3 JVC CS-J620 speakers in the wife's '06 TB. None of the speakers worked when we bought it, and when the weather was decent I didn't have time to put them in. When I had time to put them in, the weather was lousy! Do not have a garage. I got the left front installed the Sunday before Memorial Day weekend. She went to her parents house in northern Nebraska Wednesday through Memorial Day. Got the other three put in today. She now has sound from all 4 speakers! She's happy! :)
When I bought these from Sonic Electronix, I also bought two packs of Metra 72-4568 speaker harnesses. These come 2 to a pack, so 2 packs does all four speakers. Made the job basically plug & play!
I know those aren't audiophile quality speakers, but for a daily driver they're just fine. And they are a whole lot better quality than those 'speakers' that originally came with the truck!
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I've been having trouble with the front passenger side carpet getting wet. We've had a good bit of rain lately, so I though maybe I had a leak in the weatherstripping somewhere. I sealed up anything that even looked like a gap!
Yesterday morning I drove the TB to work, the AC was off, got to work and checked the carpet. Nice and dry! Of course it hasn't rained in several days, either. After work it was in the 90's so I turned on the AC. Did several errands running around town. After I got home, I checked the carpet again. It was soaked! :mad:
OK, now I know it wasn't the weatherstripping. The only other thing it could be is moisture from the heater/AC housing. The carpet did not smell like antifreeze, so I knew it wasn't that. That left the AC evaporator drain being plugged. I looked up where it is located, and this morning popped the fitting off the housing tube. Look out, mama, here comes the flood! :eek:
The water just poured out of there! I reached into the tube and got a small piece of rubber out that wasn't attached to anything. I took the drain line inside and flushed it out, a big glob of something goopy came out! :confused:
I cleaned out the tube and fitting real well, then reinstalled it. Everywhere I've gone today, I've made sure to look under the TB when I go to get in, and I'm always seeing a nice puddle of water under there! :)
So hopefully I've fixed the wet carpet issue. I should run the heater on high for a while to dry it out in there, it's just that it's 90 degrees outside!
 

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I've been having trouble with the front passenger side carpet getting wet. We've had a good bit of rain lately, so I though maybe I had a leak in the weatherstripping somewhere. I sealed up anything that even looked like a gap!
Yesterday morning I drove the TB to work, the AC was off, got to work and checked the carpet. Nice and dry! Of course it hasn't rained in several days, either. After work it was in the 90's so I turned on the AC. Did several errands running around town. After I got home, I checked the carpet again. It was soaked! :mad:
OK, now I know it wasn't the weatherstripping. The only other thing it could be is moisture from the heater/AC housing. The carpet did not smell like antifreeze, so I knew it wasn't that. That left the AC evaporator drain being plugged. I looked up where it is located, and this morning popped the fitting off the housing tube. Look out, mama, here comes the flood! :eek:
The water just poured out of there! I reached into the tube and got a small piece of rubber out that wasn't attached to anything. I took the drain line inside and flushed it out, a big glob of something goopy came out! :confused:
I cleaned out the tube and fitting real well, then reinstalled it. Everywhere I've gone today, I've made sure to look under the TB when I go to get in, and I'm always seeing a nice puddle of water under there! :)
So hopefully I've fixed the wet carpet issue. I should run the heater on high for a while to dry it out in there, it's just that it's 90 degrees outside!
Clogged evaporator drains are bad news on any vehicle. I've dealt with a number of them over the years, from cars so medium/heavy trucks to tractors. How some of that stuff gets in there will always be a mystery but I've dug some of the damnedest stuff out of them. Park the car in the sun and leave the windows down, it will dry out. If you can't do that at work, do it at home on your day off. You don't want your floorboards rusting out.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Yea, I have the carpet drying out. I was talking about running the heater to dry out the heater/AC housing to keep mold and mildew form forming.
 

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2006 gmc trailblazer_ls
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Re tinted my taillights and put in some led parking and brake lights and i also swapped my license plate light to leds also.




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Yea, I have the carpet drying out. I was talking about running the heater to dry out the heater/AC housing to keep mold and mildew form forming.
Well every time you run the A/C it is going to get wet in there...airflow in regular operation ought to take care of it. You got the drains open, that's the important part.

Your Trailblazer looks great and I like the LED ideas.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I've been listening to the left front of the TB make a whining/groaning noise while driving down the road above 20 mph. The noise goes away when the steering wheel is turned to the left. Classic symptoms of a bad hub/bearing. :(
I replaced the hub/bearings on the wife's previous car, a '97 Ford Taurus, and getting them out of the steering knuckle was a real chore! I was not looking forward to this at all! Last night after I got my Friday errands all done, I jacked up the left front and put a jack stand under the frame. I pulled the wheel off and soaked all the bolts relevant to this job with PB Blaster. I let them soak all night, and this morning got started on the job. There are a lot of good videos out there on doing this job, so I won't bore you with a step by step narration.
There were a couple of things that made the job "interesting". After pulling the brake caliper and bracket off, I tried to remove the brake rotor. Nope. Not gonna come off. That's when I noticed that the rotor still had the push nuts on two of the wheel studs! :eek:
These are installed at the factory so that the rotor does not fall off the vehicle as it goes down the assembly line. When the rotor is removed for a brake job, hub/bearing replacement, or CV axle service these push nuts are removed so the rotor can come off. They will get destroyed in the removal process and I've never seen new ones installed aftermarket. This makes me think this rotor has never been off the vehicle! If so, the rotor, hub/bearing, and CV axle are all original equipment! This vehicle has 171,000 miles on it!
So I removed the push nuts and tried to remove the rotor. Still no joy. :mad:
I dug through my old margarine container of nuts and bolts (come on, you have one, too! I know you do!) and found a couple of bolts that would fit the two threaded holes in the face of the rotor hub. I tightened them down and the rotor popped loose from the hub! :woohoo:
Now for the second fun part of the job: The axle was tuck in the hub. :sadcry:
I tried whomping on the end of the axle (with the axle nut at the end of the axle protecting the threads) with a 3lb. sledge hammer, but it wouldn't budge. I put a 3 jaw puller on it and used my electric impact wrench on it. Nope. By this time it's pushing 90 degrees, I'm all hot and stinky, and I'm thinking of doing terrible things to this vehicle. (I still have my '99 Grand Voyager.) I soaked the splines of the axle and everything I could reach at the back of the hub with the PB Blaster and said "I'm taking a shower and a couple hour break from this thing!" Sometimes the best thing to do is to just walk away for a while. During the next two hours I periodically reapplied the PB Blaster and whacked it with the sledge. Finally I saw the axle move backwards in the hub! :D :excited: :woohoo:
After that it was pretty straight forward and went like all the videos said it should. I was concerned that I would have to beat the hub out of the steering knuckle, but a few smacks with a ball peen hammer around the perimeter of the hub and it came right out, so at least SOMETHING went right!
Re-installation was very straight forward, and went without issue.
I bought a Moog unit from Autozone. https://www.autozone.com/suspension-steering-tire-and-wheel/wheel-bearing-hub-assembly-front/moog-wheel-bearing-hub-assembly-513188/605864_0_22589 Their house brand, Duralast, has a checkered review history for this part, and I thought that for the extra money, the Moog was the way to go. I also bought a new axle nut, as it is not recommended to reuse the old one. Back in the old days with castellated nuts, retainers, and cotter pins (remember those? ;) you could reuse the old nut, but you shouldn't do that with these newer vehicles. A new nut isn't much, and it's a good safety idea to use a new one.
I also had to buy a socket to get the old nut off and the new one on. Make sure you check the new nut with the socket before you pay for it, and ask if you can check the socket on the nut that's on the vehicle. They may not be the same size. The one that was on my TB was a 35mm hex, and the new nut was a 36mm hex. I bought a 36mm socket, because it was close enough that it would still get the old one off, and it would install the new one properly.
So after spending much of my precious Saturday fighting with the hub/bearing, I finally got it all back together, got it back on the ground, and all nuts and bolts at proper torque specs. Time for the acid test: the test drive. I took it out on the highway and from the left front heard....... nothing!
Thank you, God! :hail:
So that's how I wasted... err, spent, my Saturday. I did treat the TB to a car wash on the way home.
 
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