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2002 chevy trailblazer_ls
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well, there seems to be an issue with my rotors. It is more noticeable the slower I get, basically there is some pretty major pulsating going on.

The rotors and pads were replaced by the dealer I bought her from when she had 55,000 miles. She now has 86,000 miles. Not sure if they are correlated at all, but my tune doesn't seem to be as good with my first gear shift anymore :weird:. It doesn't pull to any direction while driving, doesn't seem to slow faster then it should when I let off the gas :undecided. Could be something with the rear rotors though. Would it be possible to have them turned before replacement, and how could I maybe check to see if they are warped. Only thing I can think of is to drive around for a bit and see if any one rotor is really hot, or more than another. How much should a turning cost over full replacement of the rotors. Thanks
 

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2003 chevy trailblazer_ltz
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My hubby just had to change my frnt rotors, they were both warped. They couldn't be turned. Yea, it felt like I had a bit of a bouncing (pulsating) going on when I was braking....worse & worse everyday. You can take the rotors into yor local auto store & they will ley u know if u can turn them or not. My TB has just under 80,000. It also depends upon your driving/braking styles on how long they last
 

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2003 chevy trailblazer_ls
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Replace the rotors. My factory parts at 80K were SO thin that they were scary! I used NAPA ultra-priemium -- a bit pricey, bur REALLY nice rotors. .002 runout, treated for anti-corrosion, and powder coated black in the centers.

No correlation between a PCM tune and brake issues. The two are not inter-related in any way.

Rotors are an at-home install if you have a couple of hand tools. You need to be able to pull the wheel, and the brake caliper and bracket (a set of metric wrenches are the only tools you need). 2 bolts for the calipers (just swing them out of the way -- leave the brake line attached) and 2 bolts for the bracket that holds them to the spindle. Rotors pull right off and slide right back on. You can re-use the same brake pads if they are good, or slide in a new set if they need replacement.
 

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2002 chevy trailblazer_ltz
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:tiphat My :m2:,after repeated attempts with ceramic pads & consequent warped rotors (on both my Veh.) I went back to semi metallic. I haven't had a bit of trouble since,for me there seems to be no middle ground, either R1's setup :rolleyes:or s.met.... downside for me, don't try stopping twice in a row from 112mph.:laugh::ugh: ...
 

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2004 gmc envoy_sle
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Well, there seems to be an issue with my rotors. It is more noticeable the slower I get, basically there is some pretty major pulsating going on.

The rotors and pads were replaced by the dealer I bought her from when she had 55,000 miles. She now has 86,000 miles. Not sure if they are correlated at all, but my tune doesn't seem to be as good with my first gear shift anymore :weird:. It doesn't pull to any direction while driving, doesn't seem to slow faster then it should when I let off the gas :undecided. Could be something with the rear rotors though. Would it be possible to have them turned before replacement, and how could I maybe check to see if they are warped. Only thing I can think of is to drive around for a bit and see if any one rotor is really hot, or more than another. How much should a turning cost over full replacement of the rotors. Thanks
If the stearing wheel shakes its the front rotors, If you feel it in the pedal or seat its the rear rotors. Just did my wifes rear rotors and pads @ 73000.
Went with NAPA premium rotors w/there new ceramic pads. There is is rebate of $35 for using there premium. Also had to replace both dust shields as they were rusted. They were only $13 each at the dealer. Also did the axle seals and replaced the rear end fluid. Ceramic pads are fine for daily driving. But they will not respond well to high speed stops or driving. I never go cheap on brakes!!!
 

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2003 chevy trailblazer_ls
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Price is in line with other quality rotors -- but shipping will make them much more.

If you really want drilled and slotted rotors, they may be okay. I chose to use my local NAPA ultra-premium rotors and save the shipping costs. They are high quality rotors also. I don't care about drilled and slotted. The eBay seller shows all sorts of patterns, which means that he isn't drilling for PERFORMANCE, but rather for show, as some patterns simply are worthless. Slots just shave off the brake pads (which is why they stop good, you are always on a fresh surface) but that will end up costing you money for replacement pads more often.

Your call -- you know how you want your truck to look/function.
 

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2003 chevy trailblazer_ls
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at 145,100 I still have the factory rear rotors and pads- untouched.

Recently started to get vibration (at about 135,000). This was my fault as I didnt use a torque wrench when I put the front tires back on.
so I got pulsating.
It was very easy to remove the front rotors.
I went to a local auto parts (not a chain store)... and was charged $10 each to turn the rotors.
I also bought new pads (new pads to go with the newly resurfaced rotors).
The pads I removed only had about 15,000 miles on them- and about 90% pad left.

But I was left with very smooth braking.
 

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Depending on where one lives, the use of road salt in the winter, etc., the factory rotors may live longer.

My front rotors were shocklingly thin when I replaced them. Thin enough to break in half in a panic stop situation. They were just a bit over half the thickness of a new set -- less than 1/8" of surface left on each side.

I attribute the thinness to two conditions -- brake pad wear and internal rust in the fins.

I've seen vehicles come through the shop with rotors split in half. It typically isn't a pretty sight. It can lock up a wheel at any given moment without warning.

In the big scheme, changing the rotors at or below the factory minimum thickness (stamped on the rotor) is very wise.
 

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i vote for the pretty thing in the pic
rotors- what rotors?

 

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2004 gmc envoy_sle
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You can re-use the same brake pads if they are good, or slide in a new set if they need replacement.
I'd like to interject some additional advice with this. You can use the original pads, but it's not recommended. They will cause your new rotors to warp faster since they had been shaped to your old rotors. If the pads are fairly new and you want to reuse them, sand them down with a block sander. Basically you're taking the warp out of them. If you take the pads off and put a straight iron across them, you can sometimes see it, but not always. I recommend replacing the pads. It's worth the extra $$.

I'm doing my wife's tomorrow on the Envoy and I'm turning them. It's about $12 a piece for me at the local Carquest. I have a digital caliper to measure the rotor thickness with to make sure they're in spec. I'll be using Wagner Thermoquiet Semi-metallics.:m2:
 

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2007 chevy trailblazer_ls
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If you turn or replace the rotors, change the pads. Pointless otherwise. Like everone else has said, there is no going cheap on brakes. Definately go premium on the rotors and the choice of pad will only compliment the rotors.:m2: Good luck.:thumbsup:
 

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2005 chevy trailblazer_ls_ext
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If its helpful at all I know if you or your favorite Walmarts tire guy OVERTORQUE the lugs you can absolutely warp your rotors in short time flat. From experience this also includes the resident geniuses at major tire centers who impact lugs on. I found this a good page so i hope it helps.. good to invest in a torque wrench and reset your lugs after brakes / tires have been done... take care...
http://www.discounttire.com/dtcs/infoWheelTorque.dos#chevrolet2
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
If its helpful at all I know if you or your favorite Walmarts tire guy OVERTORQUE the lugs you can absolutely warp your rotors in short time flat. From experience this also includes the resident geniuses at major tire centers who impact lugs on. I found this a good page so i hope it helps.. good to invest in a torque wrench and reset your lugs after brakes / tires have been done... take care...
http://www.discounttire.com/dtcs/infoWheelTorque.dos#chevrolet2

Hmm, this could be :undecided. Every once in awhile I would rotate my tires at sears. There are a few guys I know do a good job, but I could have gotten a :weird: one of the times. The only time I really really hit my brakes hard was last winter when the wife and I were both about to merge onto the freeway and she spun out in front of me (luckly stopped before T-boning her car). Other then that I can't remember ever hitting them all that hard any other time. So, that leads me to believe that maybe someone over torqued my lugs now that you mention it. I will be getting some new tires at Kan Rock before this winter, so ill only be going there to rotate my tires after that.
 

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If its helpful at all I know if you or your favorite Walmarts tire guy OVERTORQUE the lugs you can absolutely warp your rotors in short time flat. From experience this also includes the resident geniuses at major tire centers who impact lugs on. I found this a good page so i hope it helps.. good to invest in a torque wrench and reset your lugs after brakes / tires have been done... take care...
http://www.discounttire.com/dtcs/infoWheelTorque.dos#chevrolet2
Yes, this is why I always rotate my own tires, but when you think about the number of times shop mechanics/tire places have to take your tires off, for various services... you can't always be sure they are torquing them back on correctly. Actually, I would guess they never do. When is the last time you have ever seen any of these places using a torque wrench with tire lugs? They always use the impact gun - for speed. I know people who haven't been able to get their lugs back off, because someone would impact them on at whatever the gun does. If you need to change your tire on the side of the road, most people don't have an impact gun in their trunk. lol.
 

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2005 chevy trailblazer_ls
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I completely agree! Rotate your own tires and use a torque wrench on the lugs...its the only way to guarantee the job is done right. Remember, no one cares about your vehicle like you do...regardless of how much they get paid.:thumbsup:
 
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