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2004 chevy trailblazer_lt
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9 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hey guys, first post. Would like to thank all of you to start because this forum has been very helpful to me a number of times since I've owned my vehicle. ...This post, the reason I signed up, is the only issue you guys haven't been able to help me with. So thanks for being rad.

I found many threads about this issue, with the only real solution being the ignition switch. I am 99.9% sure that's not my issue, or I've had one hell of coincidence laden Sunday working on this thing. The only other thread I found that had similar cause and symptoms to mine was vague and of little help (wasn't sure if he installed a new stock HU or an aftermarket, etc.)

Anyway I'll try to keep this brief but give all relevant details..

Bought a new head unit (JVC KD-R740BT) because my CD player hadn't worked since I bought the thing and I was sick of only getting MP3 quality to my rear subs. Everything goes smooth, even picked up the Axxess ASWC and even it was perfect. Too good to be true, of course. Get everything tucked in, test unit with truck running before putting my dash back together..huge success. Don't bother unhooking battery, have doors open so domes are on because the switch to turn them off with is in the dash.. So I run into some issues with the head unit being slightly too large (thanks Crutchfield) and keeping the dash from being flush and couldn't even get all clips in. Get the dremel and shave the sides of the dash HU slot down a bit. Like a glove. All told, prob 30-40 mins passes til the dash is reassembled. Close the doors, lock it with the remote FOB and go take a shower.

Come outside to go run some errands, unlock with remote, get in and it won't start. Think I prob drained the battery with my dome lights, but check for a badd connection on negative battery terminal first. Tight connection, all good. Get the shot box out for a jump, and no luck. So put it on the charger and waited 30 mins. Come back out, won't start. Try to jump again, nothing. Unhook negative terminal form battery and check corrosion, rubber in the way, etc. All good. Screw it back in tight, jump behind the wheel and bingo she fires up. Radio comes on but keeps cycling power every ~10 seconds, instrument panel lights don't work, A/C blowing hot (I live in FL), windows won't roll down, locks won't work, headlights work, all kinds of alerts and alarms going off. Sounds and looks like a clown car. ABS, Battery, Airbag, Seatbelt, Security, etc. Have almost a full tank of gas, gauges says empty and low fuel indicator is on, no oil pressure or temp gauge. Can't tell which gear you're in -- has PRDN12, but the little underline indicator is absent except in Park. And, of course, unknown driver flashing in the info center. Weird thing though, I've not read of anyone else having it like this...it switches about every 10 seconds from "unknown driver" to "driver 2 (me)"...I think that may be the cause of my head unit constantly cycling power too...adapting to user prefs maybe? I've also noticed that my lights dim for a quick moment when it switches from unknown to driver 2. Stereo and PRND12 saty illuminated long after truck is in park, key is removed, and door is opened. For the 10 seconds it's on driver 2, everything is correct and back to normal except for the dash lights??...A/C works, gauges, windows, locks.. I've been messing with it on and off throughout the evening and a couple of times my key FOB has unlocked every door except my driver door. Just going to leave the battery unhooked overnight, hope it resets something and I'm gold when I wake up in the morning... but I'm never that lucky.

I'll be praying tonight that it's just a harness that got bunched up or partially unplugged while I got [gently crammed] everything into place (not much room back there and my wiring harness bundle is nearing the size of a large house cat at this point) so first thing in the morning I'll be tearing the dash apart yet again to check it out. But I doubt very seriously that's my issue. So, I thought I'd go ahead and post this tonight, as I will find the answer somehow and I will let everyone know in detail what the issue was and how I resolved it. Figured bouncing it off you guys tonight would give me somewhere to turn in the morning when I check my connections and all is good there. I'm scared it's the theft lock crap and I'll have to get it programmed...is that maybe why it worked before I had it permanently seated in the console but then quit once it was fully integrated and I was driving around? I'd think this was my issue for sure but I had the truck running (and saying driver 2 as it should) when I ran my audio check before reassembling the dash. From what I've read the theft lock stuff usually won't work at all, even initially, with the vehicle running -- only with the ignition on, but not cranked. Can anyone confirm or deny this?

Anyway, thank you all in advance for any info or suggestions and for all the help you've been to me in the past. Would be nice to have a comprehensive thread on this if it ever gets figured out.

I'll report back sometime tomorrow morning.

Edit: thought of something I left out. With battery hooked up and doors closed, lock with key FOB, horn honks as it should, all doors lock. But the bright yellow "security" badge stays lit up in instrument panel. Sat locked in my truck for 10 mins and it stayed on. Not sure if they all do this, if mine always has, etc.. First time I've ever locked it with the FOB while sitting in the vehicle as I've never had a problem in this area.

Oops, and I just realized I should have posted this in audio and electronics.. Sorry, I'm on my phone. Tried to move it but can't see how. Should I cross post? Can a mod move it for me please? Can delete and post again if necessary, not sure how strict you guys are.
 

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2004 gmc envoy_sle_xl
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1,239 Posts
Just curious, where did you hook up your jumper cables? To the battery posts or to the screw stud next to the fuse box? If you hooked up to the stud, you might have blown the mega fuse. See the picture below.
 

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Registered
2004 chevy trailblazer_lt
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9 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Just curious, where did you hook up your jumper cables? To the battery posts or to the screw stud next to the fuse box? If you hooked up to the stud, you might have blown the mega fuse. See the picture below.
I jumped off the side terminals that are in the bottom of the photo you posted, covered by blue text.. So I should be good there. Thanks for the suggestion and helpful photo!
 

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2004 chevy trailblazer_lt
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9 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Took the dash apart this morning, unhooked stock harnesses and she's back to normal. Must be something in the GMOS-04? But then why'd it work before when I tested everything before reassembling the dash? I'm pulling my hair out with this thing. Checked all my connections and they're good. Time to call crutchfield I guess. I'll report back after some more tinkering and a phone call.
 

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2004 chevy trailblazer_lt
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9 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Busy day, just had time to get back. On a hunch and after reading about ground trouble with remote starts and everything working fine with the factory unit hooked up I cut the connector off even though it felt good and tight (had ASWC ground, aftermarket ground, and harness ground all 3 together). Stripped down a little further, literally braided the 3 together and gave a nice tight twist. Recrimped and reinstalled and good as gold. Thanks for the sounding board as I walked myself through it. Glad it was a simple fix. Hopefully this helps someone in the future. Feel like a moron for signing up just for this, but I didn't think I'd be so lucky. Coulda done it last night but I don't have good lighting and was just about at my wits' end with the damn thing (had big speaker issues as well and a couple other small hangups that made it a very frustrating project).

So thanks and SOLVED!:duh:
 

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2004 gmc envoy_sle_xl
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1,239 Posts
Congratulations, and don't beat yourself up, you just contributed to the site with your experience.:thumbsup:
 

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2004 chevy trailblazer_lt
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9 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Of course I post this, decide to go for an evening drive and nowww... My dash lights are out. Going to replace the fuse tomorrow. It's either that, another ASWC problem, another bad connection, a gmos-04 problem, or I goofed up the wiring. I read something about hooking into the dimmer wire instead of the illumination wire, but I followed the instructions to the letter so hopefully that's not it. I'm going to check these out in order as time permits and will report back.

Any immediate suggestions or info is appreciated. Thanks!

...ugh. This install has taken more time and caused more frustration than every head unit I've ever swapped out combined. I want a pre-computer vehicle.
 

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2004 chevy trailblazer_lt
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9 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Solved #2. TBC2 (#7 under the rear driver side seat) fuse blown. Thanks to this forum I found and resolved the issue quickly and easily. Thanks again, gentlemen.
 

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2004 buick rainier
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6 Posts
Fuses, fuses everywhere

Unfortunately, vehicles today are so computerized that everything seems to be fused and relayed separately so just checking fuses alone seems to be a daunting task. Best of wishes to your new sound system.:thumbsup:
 

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2004 chevy trailblazer_lt
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9 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
Did this fix your unknown driver problem?
No sir, it was the ground connection that was causing that issue. The fuse only fixed my dash lights. Read up in the thread and if your situation sounds similar, restrip and recrimp all your grounds before going any further is my suggestion. Happy to try to help though!
 

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2004 gmc other
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1 Posts
Hey anyone, I've got a 2004 GMC Sierra 1500 4WD ext. cab SLE. Been fighting this electrical problem for a week. Start the truck, 5-10 seconds later, all gauges drop to nothing, radio dies, and get "unknown driver" on the DIC. Power windows, door locks AC, quit working, also. Truck drives fine, no speedo, or tach, either. Middle of the summer, no AC, can't roll down the windows, kinda sucks. I've cleaned frame grounds at front cab mount, and at left side of radiator. Also, sometimes key fob doesn't work. Any ideas, anyone?
 
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