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2005 chevy trailblazer_ls
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
hey my TB every now and then does not wanna start for me it will start after about 15 minutes of trying. this doesnt happen often ive realized that it only happens when i park and let it sit with around a quarter tank in gas and when its parked on a hill with the front facing up the hill (all the fuel going to the back of the tank?) and i start to get the smell of gas like its flooding almost, so im thinking maybe fuel pumps acting up??

anyone got any ideas or maybe can confirm my guess? because i could be severly off but ive been trying to figure this out for a while now:suicide:. i could be missing somehting any help would be appreciated Thanks :D
 

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2004 chevy trailblazer_lt
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Generally, starting problems after getting fuel or from parking on a hill relate to a bad fuel pump. This is certainly the first thing that comes to mind with GM vehicles. Fuel pumps will fail sooner or later; not might, but will.

Unfortunately, it is hard to diagnose over the internet unless we know lots more information on temps, trouble codes etc. There is also the possibility of a bad coolant temp sensor causing it to pour lots of fuel into the engine because the PCM thinks the coolant is cold when it isn't.

We can't fix things for people. We can offer suggestions, but sooner or later, it is up to the owner to properly perform diagnostics on the things that we point out are common problems and MIGHT be the cause.

BUT there are lots of other issues that crop up from time to time; bad batteries, bad ignition switches, dirty throttle bodies, plugged fuel filters, etc. We can't advise everyone because no one knows what conditions your vehicle is driven in. Some vehicles never get over 2000 RPM and will just atrophy. Some get driven the way they were designed but never get maintained according to the factory (not your dealer) recommendations. Some owners never use Seafoam or Techron in the fuel tank at every oil change. (This should be a MUST.) Some owners have never even heard of Top Tier gas, let alone ensuring that is all they burn. Some owners don't understand that the throttle body must be thoroughly cleaned front and rear (with throttle-body-cleaner ONLY) on a regular basis because of the way these engines were designed. Some owners change the oil every 3000 miles, thinking they are gaining "piece of mind" when all they are doing is flushing their money down the drain.

So you see how hard it is to offer diagnostics to everyone in every case.

The way to attack this is to try the easiest, cheapest and most common problems first. This means, clean your throttle body, get your fuel pressure tested and then get a new ignition switch.

By the way, don't throw parts at a problem unless you are sure it is the cause, and don't shotgun solutions by doing ALL of the above at the same time. Clean the throttle body and see what happens. If it is the same, get your fuel pressure tested. If that checks out okay, have your battery load tested. If there are no symptoms, change the ignition switch. If nothing works, THEN come back and let us know and see what we can think of.

My money's on the fuel pump.
 

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Not Starting

My TB had a check engine light on. The dealer could not take me in to look at it, so I punched ON STAR. They did a check over the SAT and a Tech told me it was the Ignition Switch, but should last the week. I took a trip to Philly that I had to make, and of course that night, she no start. On Star in the morning had me towed to the nearest dealer in West Chester. They replaced th switch and it has been fine ever since. Thomas Chevrolet was the dealer, KUDOS to them, courteous, fast, washed car, made wheels and tires shine, no charge.
 

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2005 chevy trailblazer_ls
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Generally, starting problems after getting fuel or from parking on a hill relate to a bad fuel pump. This is certainly the first thing that comes to mind with GM vehicles. Fuel pumps will fail sooner or later; not might, but will.

Unfortunately, it is hard to diagnose over the internet unless we know lots more information on temps, trouble codes etc. There is also the possibility of a bad coolant temp sensor causing it to pour lots of fuel into the engine because the PCM thinks the coolant is cold when it isn't.

We can't fix things for people. We can offer suggestions, but sooner or later, it is up to the owner to properly perform diagnostics on the things that we point out are common problems and MIGHT be the cause.

BUT there are lots of other issues that crop up from time to time; bad batteries, bad ignition switches, dirty throttle bodies, plugged fuel filters, etc. We can't advise everyone because no one knows what conditions your vehicle is driven in. Some vehicles never get over 2000 RPM and will just atrophy. Some get driven the way they were designed but never get maintained according to the factory (not your dealer) recommendations. Some owners never use Seafoam or Techron in the fuel tank at every oil change. (This should be a MUST.) Some owners have never even heard of Top Tier gas, let alone ensuring that is all they burn. Some owners don't understand that the throttle body must be thoroughly cleaned front and rear (with throttle-body-cleaner ONLY) on a regular basis because of the way these engines were designed. Some owners change the oil every 3000 miles, thinking they are gaining "piece of mind" when all they are doing is flushing their money down the drain.

So you see how hard it is to offer diagnostics to everyone in every case.

The way to attack this is to try the easiest, cheapest and most common problems first. This means, clean your throttle body, get your fuel pressure tested and then get a new ignition switch.

By the way, don't throw parts at a problem unless you are sure it is the cause, and don't shotgun solutions by doing ALL of the above at the same time. Clean the throttle body and see what happens. If it is the same, get your fuel pressure tested. If that checks out okay, have your battery load tested. If there are no symptoms, change the ignition switch. If nothing works, THEN come back and let us know and see what we can think of.

My money's on the fuel pump.





Thanks for the ideas i didnt mean to make it sound like i expected anyone to be able to solve my problems right online sorry about that.. im just still a newbie to the TB stuff i used to have an old pos nissan that i could basically just kick and it would work again hah so im still trying to get the whole actually having to take my time and figure the new car out. But thanks alot for the tips ill be lookin into it.
 

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2004 chevy trailblazer_lt
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Let us know how you make out!

Our vehicles rarely respond to kicks (except perhaps to a slow actuator, a stuck starter or the odd TCCM that didn't 'wake up.')

On the other hand, the problems are relatively predictable, and if people diagnose logically and turn to the good folks in here for help, there is always hope. Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
one of the guys i work with had me bring it into his friends shop they plugged it in for me just to see if it would tell us anything since i had notice the check engine light quickly flash on while driving one day its telling me its got a couple things goin on that i need to adresss the guy said it might be one of the things thats going on that could be the problem

.... thermostat, or O2 sensor problems

he said that after the code for the o2 it said the word "time" he was unable to tell me what that ment and i have not been able to figure it out myself any one know what it means??

but would that make anysence given the rough idea of my problem

( i also found out that my gas cap is broken and will no longer sit in place dunno how it happend but my TB just seems to hate me this month :( )
 

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O2 sensor

When my ignition switch was bad, the O2 sensor was a code as well. After they replaced the ignition switch the )2 sensor was fine. The service manager at the Chevy dealer said the bad ignition switch was causing the false O2 sensor code.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
When my ignition switch was bad, the O2 sensor was a code as well. After they replaced the ignition switch the )2 sensor was fine. The service manager at the Chevy dealer said the bad ignition switch was causing the false O2 sensor code.

Thanks for the heads up on that one ill be looking into that also now:thx.
 

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Keep us informed.

Remember ... easy and cheap solutions first.

Clean the throttle body, have your battery load-tested, get your fuel pressure tested and then replace the ignition switch. (One solution at a time.)

The throttle body is an easy half-hour job you can do yourself. The battery load-test is 10 seconds at any good battery store. The fuel pressure test is 5 minutes at a garage. (GM made it insanely easy for us by installing a Schrader valve test port fitting right at the fuel filter on 2002-2004 vehicles and on the fuel rail for 2005+ models.)

The ignition switch is about $40 and you can also do this yourself in the driveway. (Follow the instructions on this forum carefully and you won't have any problems.)
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Keep us informed.

Remember ... easy and cheap solutions first.

Clean the throttle body, have your battery load-tested, get your fuel pressure tested and then replace the ignition switch. (One solution at a time.)

The throttle body is an easy half-hour job you can do yourself. The battery load-test is 10 seconds at any good battery store. The fuel pressure test is 5 minutes at a garage. (GM made it insanely easy for us by installing a Schrader valve test port fitting right at the fuel filter on 2002-2004 vehicles and on the fuel rail for 2005+ models.)

The ignition switch is about $40 and you can also do this yourself in the driveway. (Follow the instructions on this forum carefully and you won't have any problems.)

thanks for the steady input guys. trust me im in no rush to throw money at things i dont need fixed so im taking the advice and taking it one step at a time ill keep it updated thanks again.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
hey guys between running between the firehouse and school and my own house i havent really had the time to do all my things on my list so its going into the shop this weekend for sure to start off my list but i had the check engine light on so i checked it got rid of the codes and it popped back on so i checked it again and now its saying its my secondary air intake that is putting the light on just another thing to add to my list to look at but i gotta ask......what is the secondary air intake :confused:
 

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Please post the code after you search for it. Probably the Secondary Air Injection System, another phrase you can search for.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Please post the code after you search for it. Probably the Secondary Air Injection System, another phrase you can search for.
it was the secondary air code...i have a bigger problem now:suicide: im am deeply sorrowed to say that my TB has been garaged for a while due to a blown head gasket:(. i appreciate everyones help in the topics that i have posted and the effort given to throw me ideas ill repost again once my TB is up and hopefully running.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
woo TB is up and running again check light is off also the one time i dont do my own oil change is the one time that they add to much oil and mess my truck up so thankfully it was not a head gasket woo not sure about the stalling out thing though still cause i havent had the chance yet. but hopefully that jsut will go away haha
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
got the tb back figures the one time im to lazy to do my own oil the mechanic puts way to much oil in my truck so im fearing the worst and all my guys down at my new shop had to do was drain some oil....now back to the not starting part of my problem i replaced the battery cause it was seemed like it was going bad according to the test autozone ran but now thanks to there great help and some advice from people i know it starting to sound like my altenator is overcharging my battery is what ive been told so guess im gonna be looking into that next.
 
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