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2004 chevy trailblazer_lt
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys,

Long time listener, first time caller. haha.

I got my '04 TB 4x4 about 7 or so months ago, had 28k or so on it. This thing was (and still is) mint as all hell. When I bought it, it came with the GM certified pre-owned stuff and is still under the "powertrain" warranty. Within the last week or so, maybe longer, shifting into reverse responds with a psuedo-lurch. It's hard to describe in text, but it's a very heavy shift. Shifting into Drive doesn't have any issues that I can discern.

That said, over the winter if the car wasn't warm very warm (like 1/4 high on the gauge) then you could hear a ticking when standing next to hood. It disappears when the car is warm and can't hear it now that the temperature has gone up outside. Secondly, there was some unknown fluid leaking around the same time. It is possible it was condensation from the engine, but it seemed a little much. It has no discernible odor or taste and every time I would try to catch it on cardboard or something to get a better look/feel/taste it wouldnt leak. While these two things are most likely entirely unrelated, I thought I'd let you know.

Any ideas? Is this a semi-normal progression? Should I freak out 'til it's fixed?
 

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2004 chevy trailblazer_lt
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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Apparently no one has any ideas, but thanks for looking at it!



I noticed a new "symptom" of when I slow down the engine RPMs will jump around 300 or so when I get to 10-15MPH. This may be perfectly normal, but a quick google search brought me nothing.

Thanks!
 

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2007 chevy trailblazer_ls
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This thing cycles the A/C compressor any time you're point at defrost at all, even if the "AC" button isn't pushed... Fluid is probably water from evaporator drain.

Clean your throttle body for the strange low-rpm variance... Pretty frequent compaint with the drive-by-wire systems. There is an article on it in the "articles" section, I think...

Mike
 

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Have you done or made any modifications to the engine? spark plugs, wires, coil packs, anything? had a similar problem about 3 weeks ago as far as the low rpm and was a loose coil pack. As far as the transmission, my best guess, and im probably not the one on this board to ask would be that somehow, probably from shifting into reverse before stopped, is that you have ground a tooth off the reverse gear in the tranny. if it is still under warranty i would take it back to the dealer. they are going to probably pull the pan tell you they cant find anything wrong after they fix the very small part that was messed up and then charge you for a drain and fill new filter and new tranny gasket.

Brian
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
thanks for the info guys!


would there be enough condensation to form a small puddle (say 3 inches in diameter) even during the dead of winter? I can't recall if I used the defrost, but it is very unlikely since I seldom if ever do.

I haven't done any modifications to it, but it is inherently possible that I have sheered part of the reverse gear. I tend to shift between drive and reverse fairly quickly, so it may have suffered the brunt. It is still under "power train" warranty, so hopefully that may prove some benefit.
 

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2007 chevy trailblazer_ls
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thanks for the info guys!


would there be enough condensation to form a small puddle (say 3 inches in diameter) even during the dead of winter? I can't recall if I used the defrost, but it is very unlikely since I seldom if ever do.

I haven't done any modifications to it, but it is inherently possible that I have sheered part of the reverse gear. I tend to shift between drive and reverse fairly quickly, so it may have suffered the brunt. It is still under "power train" warranty, so hopefully that may prove some benefit.
Yes, could be... It apparently also turns on for a short while on startup, no matter what the settings are... Is it dripping from the passenger side frame rail, right behind the passenger front tire?

It's not a sheered gear tooth or anything... If it's anything, it'd be worn reverse clutches, or some type of fluid flow issue (leaking fluid from a pressure line going to the reverse clutch?). It's under warranty, just take it in...

Mike
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
No. The leak is more in the center of the body, right underneath the firewall (give or take a little bit). I am by no means solid on car part lingo, but i believe it is right by where the control arm meets the frame?
 

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No. The leak is more in the center of the body, right underneath the firewall (give or take a little bit). I am by no means solid on car part lingo, but i believe it is right by where the control arm meets the frame?
Yes, it will drip off of the frame, right by the firewall (which is at the back of the front wheel).

Mike
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
Hey guys.

I had it into the dealer for work. They found "nothing wrong with it" despite driving it for nearly 20 miles. They offered to update the computer and clean out the intake or whatever to free it of a carbon build up. I consented, although as soon as I got back in, the problems were still there. When they called me to tell me the car was ready, they did not let me know if any of these things fixed the problem, and sure enough it didnt. in a perfect world, maybe they would try something and if it didnt work not charge you exorbitant fees for nothing.

my question is do any of you know if that stuff should have been under the powertrain warranty? it seems to me that the computer is part of the powertrain and the intake is as well, but the cost to my checkbook begs to differ.


just to cover all the bases, these are the problems.

1) breaks feel increasingly soft from day to day.
2) perhaps a leak behind the engine (perhaps just condensation dripping).
3) car shifts fairly hard into Drive or Reverse from Park, with an accompanied rev in the engine.
4) car does NOT want to slow down. when up to speed (say 30 mph on a city road) it will maintain that speed at between 9-1200rpms. It will do this at slower speeds too.
5) when breaking, it feels like the car is fighting you and wants to maintain its speed. the rpms rev about 300rpms at around 15mph and then 8mph before coming to a halt.


finally this afternoon i was able to swing by the place and i drove one of the service specialists around. he seemed to warm up to the fact that the problem existed, although spent a good deal of time giving me bull**** like "all cars feel different to me" and "well cars do like to coast." finally after it staying at 30mph for damn near a mile (thankfully hit all the lights) he began to see that maybe there is a problem.

after screwing this up, I want to give them a chance to remedy the situation, but increasingly it seems that they either do not want to or do not know how to. I was hoping to use the fact that it was under powertrain warranty to my advantage, but I may have to take it to my local shop where I know they'll fix it.
 

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Sound more like a break booster problem than a tranny.....The fluid (if it's break fluid) will be clear-ish to blue ting and bitter tasting if you have a leak. If the booster (vacuum actuated...) is leking, then this will explain your erratic idle/rev issue. Sometime these things are intermittent which makes them hard to diagnose but a simple vaccum test will diagnose this problem or even simpler, pinch off the vaccum hose going to the brake booster and see if the simptoms(at idle...do not drive it this way) are better. :m2:
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
What dealer did you take this to? I know a service guy at a GMC dealer that I can run some of this by him this weekend.

Glenway Chevrolet on the West Side of Cincy.



With the vaccuum booster hose, what exactly am I looking for as far as the hose? If pinched, should the rpms rev or not?
 

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Glenway Chevrolet on the West Side of Cincy.



With the vaccuum booster hose, what exactly am I looking for as far as the hose? If pinched, should the rpms rev or not?

Big Curly hose leading from the intake manifold to the Brake Booster. Located right behind the PCM
 
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