I will point out that there is NO WAY anyone here even knew if you were male
, female, non-binary, or whatever. You received precisely the same treatment ANYONE would have gotten in the same circumstances.
Congrats on having the ability and know how to remove and replace the transmission. That is a skill not all of us on this forum have. However, as TJBaker pointed out, there is no way for any of us to know what gender you are. Had I been in your shoes, I would have sourced a remanufactured transmission as a replacment. Yes, it costs more, but it would also come with a warranty.
Now then, describe exactly what you mean by "nothing". I assume the shifter moves OK? Does it feel like the cable is properly attached and such? Does the shift position indicator in the dash move? Are there unusual noises? Give us something to work with here!
"Nothing" in transmission-talk, implies that the installer has done all the installation work correctly and yet there is no transfer of power to the wheels.
If you want a list of things that can go wrong during an installation.... we need more input than "nothing" because that covers a lot of territory.
..... just to start.....
Linkage (easy fix)
Shredded metal contamination from previous unit, hiding in heat exchanger or lines, etc. (Bad, bad, bad! )
Damaged front pump (extremely bad)
Snapped input shaft (very bad)
Transfer case between gears or in neutral (simple fix - maybe)
Bellhousing bolts were used to forcefully pull the transmission up to the engine (very bad)
No ATF (it happens)
OTHER INTERNAL TRANSMISSION damage (a shopping list here)
No driveshaft (silly mistake)
Do I remember you said it came out of a "totalled vehicle"? Be suspicious of that because when a vehicle is damaged that badly the transmission may have been destroyed in the accident too.
-> Vehicle gets hit by stationary object (car v train) - or moving object hits vehicle (train v car) and throttle gets jammed WOT and engine redlines, taking transmission to hell in it's own death spiral....... etc, etc.... or impact is severe enough ("totalled", remember?) to break internal parts.
BUT ------- if the installer was on the ball and not a hobbiest, male or female, it falls to any one or combination of things that go bump in the night.
Your problem is to mentally review every thing you did and weigh it against what might be outta your control coupled to your in-person (we ain't there) observations.....make a new game plan.
NEW means NEW - untouched by ATF, never having been spun by an engine.
REBUILT/REMAN/OVERHAULLED means totally disassembled, inspected, new friction, paper and rubber and new solenoid and pillow pack, all new needle bearings, bushings, thrust washers and sun shell, filter, etc
USED can cover a lot of ground, from out of a junkyard, and buddy had a unit in a vehicle he was gonna scrap for the metal
REBUILDABE CORE - usually a junkyard unit of which no history is known, but externally it's not cracked, melted or partially disassembled already.
NEW TO YOU is pretty much a worthless nomenclature since it meets no real criteria at all.
Misusing the above terms usually gives professionals a clearer picture with whom we are communicating. Being Male or female is not in the equation.
That said, It is INFLAMMATORY speech on anyone's part to accuse anyone here of gender bias and I am not happy to help further under that circumstance.
...and filled the torque converter with fluid during assembly? I've been meaning to look at shifter bushings as I heard they can break and then shifter doesn't work correctly. I would think it should take 7 quarts or so, at least. Good luck.
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I have been using this forum for a while with great success so thanks to all but now I have a question.
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