Transmission leaking from bellhousing, what should I do?

Ravalli Surfer said:

If you've never replaced the front bushing ..... the chances of getting it right the first 5 or 6 times by an inexperienced novice is practically nill.

FTR --- to replace the pump bushing, requires taking the pump totally out of the unit, taking it apart, inspecting the rotor/blades/housing/drive/reaction rings/side seals/pivot seal/etc and KNOWING WHAT IT IS YOU ARE SEEING ..... and this is just diagnosing, not repairing yet.

Buy a pump stator alignment tool, a new HD reaction drum, P&R or a Banner Kit, reman'd convertor, the newest/best front bushing design, staking tool, and this isn't talking about the extra long 3/8" extention (mine is 42") to access those pesky upper bellhousing bolts ... and a smoke wrench for those nasty exhaust bolts/studs --- and the hits keep right on a-coming for tools and stuff.

There are a lot of old timer SOP and "field-experienced" rebuilders who had their first half dozen or so, bushings fail because of bad technique, the wrong tool, the wrong press collet, too much hitting, too little hitting, incorrect staking, wrong staking tool, not using latest upgraded bushing, lack of cleanliness, too much beer, not enough beer ........

If you've never pulled a 4WD unit .... and I'm not saying on your back, laying on cardboard in a dirt driveway ... but on a 4-post 4 arm-hoist with a Wudel, air tools and inside a real shop .... you're gonna wish you had jobbed the whole thing to experienced professionals.

The R&R guy can destroy any good rebuild with bad technique ... even with a Haynes in one hand and a voodoo doll in the other.

I've exhausted my experiences and advice to you .... at this point, I have nothing else to offer you except consolations.

A nod is as good as a wink to a blind horse.

Have a happy day. Or not.

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Denali94 said:

You have really missed Ravalli's point here. Your individual chances of getting the pump reinstalled properly are slim to none. I have been wrenching on daily drivers, hot rods, race cars and off-roaders for over 50 years and never done more with an automatic transmission than to remove and reinstall. As far as I am concerned, whatever goes on inside that AT case is pure wizardry. I have had some really good AT techs try to guide me through the rebuild process and they all threw up their hands and walked away. OTOH none of them could squeeze an extra pony out of a big block MOPAR. An AT pump is not a sealed unit like a water pump; it consists of a dozen or more pieces which must be treated with respect and awe. IIRC there are 10 -12 steps inside the case body before you can even think about getting the pump out of a 4l60e. No picture or diagram is going to show you how to reassemble it properly. Lastly in today's litigious society no self-respecting AT shop will touch a unit you pulled and want to reinstall. Give them the car, show them the leaks and say "fix it". Give them a ceiling price if it makes you feel better. Most will give you a pretty good ballpark price before they ever put it on the rack.

As Inspector Callahan said; "a man has to know his limitations."

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Imjustauser said:

Ill call around to some nearby shops. I'm just a bit hesitant to spend $1500 on an $800 car I havent taken on the road yet. There is a fair bit of documentation and videos on 4l60e's but I would need to take out the TCC just to pull the pump out.

Thing is it goes into gear and drives so the oil pump must work.

Thanks

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Ravalli Surfer said:

Well then --- I recommend just adding a cookie pan under the bell housing to capture the oil as it leaks and perhaps a small 12V motor and pump the send it back down the filler tube again.

Presto - Bob's your uncle.

But you said: "Thing is it goes into gear and drives so the oil pump must work."



I think I have to issue a Grand Slinky Award here and now.

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