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Transmission leaking from bellhousing, what should I do?

938 Views 26 Replies 5 Participants Last post by  Imjustauser
I have a leak from where the trans meets the engine, and it also leaks from the bottom access port. It leaks a fair bit and would probably leave a small puddle if left running for 10 mins.

I was planning on replacing the torque converter but I am unsure what seals I should replace? What is the difference between torque converter shaft seal and input shaft seal? I was also thinking of doing the rear main seal at the same time. Anything else I should do while the trans is dropped?

Thanks
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Welcome to the Forum!

Now for the nitty-gritty. What year, make, model, engine, trim level, drive type (2WD or 4WD) is your vehicle?

What color is the fluid that is leaking? If you do not know, stick a piece of a white paper towel on one of the spots where it leaked and see what color it is.

Please report back.
Welcome to the Forum!

Now for the nitty-gritty. What year, make, model, engine, trim level, drive type (2WD or 4WD) is your vehicle?

What color is the fluid that is leaking? If you do not know, stick a piece of a white paper towel on one of the spots where it leaked and see what color it is.

Please report back.
4WD SLE, 2002. Fluid is red.
What engine?
Thank you.

In looking at a diagram for the transmission, there are a couple of different seals and/or gaskets that could be the culprit. Unfortunately, in order to check to see if they are leaking, one needs to pull the torque converter and the oil pump.

Here is the link to the diagram and parts listing. 2002 Chevrolet TRAILBLAZER Base AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION

Looks like you are going to be interested in Parts Numbered 5 and 6 in the diagram.

This exhausts my limited transmission knowledge. However, there are 3 or 4 others on here that are transmission gurus, so just hollar and I am sure one of them will be more than happy to assist!

Good Luck!
Thank you.

In looking at a diagram for the transmission, there are a couple of different seals and/or gaskets that could be the culprit. Unfortunately, in order to check to see if they are leaking, one needs to pull the torque converter and the oil pump.

Here is the link to the diagram and parts listing. 2002 Chevrolet TRAILBLAZER Base AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION

Looks like you are going to be interested in Parts Numbered 5 and 6 in the diagram.

This exhausts my limited transmission knowledge. However, there are 3 or 4 others on here that are transmission gurus, so just hollar and I am sure one of them will be more than happy to assist!

Good Luck!
Would that be the same for the envoy?
Yes. Same vehicle mechanically (along with Buick Rainier, Isuzu Ascender, Saab 9-7X, and the 2002 - 2004 Olds Bravada).
Yes. Same vehicle mechanically (along with Buick Rainier, Isuzu Ascender, Saab 9-7X, and the 2002 - 2004 Olds Bravada).
Any advice for other low cost things I should replace while driveshafts/ trans is removed? I have never removed a trans before. I was thinking of replacing the flex plate and rear main seal.
You sure bruh? This is a big job. Why are you planning on replacing a $340 torque converter? Transmission slipping? If so, the tranny... uh, transmission probably needs rebuilt. You might go through a hell of a lot of work to install a $340 torque converter only to find you still have the same issue. You should watch these two videos, this guy is a pro and does a great job explaining this 4L60E (our transmission) removal and tear down.


Well, unless the flex plate is cracked or teeth are missing, I would not change it. As far as the rear main seal goes, I would say it depends on if there will be enough room to change it without having to remove the engine from the engine bay. Removing and reinstalling the 4.2L I6 engine is not for the faint of heart and it can be a real b!tch from what I have read time and time again.

I guess I would look over the driveshaft u-joints and make sure that they freely move and are not rusting out. If not, then this would be the time to replace them or have them replaced.
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Also, SR3000 is right. It's a major job.
You sure bruh? This is a big job. Why are you planning on replacing a $340 torque converter? Transmission slipping? If so, the tranny... uh, transmission probably needs rebuilt. You might go through a hell of a lot of work to install a $340 torque converter only to find you still have the same issue. You should watch these two videos, this guy is a pro and does a great job explaining this 4L60E (our transmission) removal and tear down.


Transmission works fine, just leaks from the bellhousing. I could replace only the seals but I was thinking of replacing the torque converter to be sure.
The torque convertor CAN be worn where the seal lips ride --- not very likely - so there may be no good reason to replace the torque convertor.

BUT --- when the front seal leaks from the pump housing --- it MIGHT be from lack of a seal retainer (sometimes the factory doesn't use it and other times cheap-assed bench builders won't bother with it either) ... it's super easy to install and is super cheap and sometimes the new seal comes with the new retainer.

HOWEVER -- there's usually a reason why the seal starts leaking and it has to do with the pump housing or convertor nosecone bushing that has "walked" out of the housing and that's time for a new or reman'd pump and bushing assy.
The convertor nose in this situation is usualy damaged - scored and has grooves in it --- all bad.​

When a seal walks out of the pump housing, it damages the machined pump boss into which it is pressed and the neophyte won't ususally recognize the damage unless the damage is huge and obvious. Don't count on noticing it.
At this point, the pump is junk.​

There are other mitigating reasons why the front seal starts to leak --- pressure losses from a bad bushing inside the pump can allow a lot more fluid than is normal - to blow past the bushing and this fills the small cavity behind the seal because the drainback passageway is small (by rebuilder's standards) --- we always bore that passageway out at least a few drill sizes to help allow the excess fluid to run back into the pan, less restricted.
The seal can usually handle this excess flow - it's not much pressure after all.​
It WILL shorten the life of the seal by inverting the lips or pushing it out of the pump housing however.​
Understand that?​

There are symptoms of losing the front bushing, 'way before it walks out and tries to go through the seal and you develop a leak ... you will likely experience soft shifts - drawn out or long shifts and/or no "countable " shifts at all.
Wow! This transmission is shifting so smoo-oo-thly! (NOT!).​

This is where the transmission is really shifting, but the pressure loss inside the pump doesn't help insure a smart-bright-tight hookup of the friction material and it just slides into the next gear - all the while the previous gear has long ago (in shift-time) let go of the previous friction material.
Once this happens, the fluid goes dark rapidly and can be burnt to the taste (Yes --- I said; "Taste").​
FTR -- there is NO SLIP-N-SLIDE in the clutches or bands.​
NONE!​
The hook-up is so violent and abrupt, you'd chirp the tores every shift.​
If there wasan't a torque convertor between the engine and the transmission, you'd lose all your teeth every time it shifted.​
That takes pressure and if it's not there things burn.​
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The torque convertor CAN be worn where the seal lips ride --- not very likely - so there may be no good reason to replace the torque convertor.

BUT --- when the front seal leaks from the pump housing --- it MIGHT be from lack of a seal retainer (sometimes the factory doesn't use it and other times cheap-assed bench builders won't bother with it either) ... it's super easy to install and is super cheap and sometimes the new seal comes with the new retainer.

HOWEVER -- there's usually a reason why the seal starts leaking and it has to do with the pump housing or convertor nosecone bushing that has "walked" out of the housing and that's time for a new or reman'd pump and bushing assy.
The convertor nose in this situation is usualy damaged - scored and has grooves in it --- all bad.​

When a seal walks out of the pump housing, it damages the machined pump boss into which it is pressed and the neophyte won't ususally recognize the damage unless the damage is huge and obvious. Don't count on noticing it.
At this point, the pump is junk.​

There are other mitigating reasons why the front seal starts to leak --- pressure losses from a bad bushing inside the pump can allow a lot more fluid than is normal - to blow past the bushing and this fills the small cavity behind the seal because the drainback passageway is small (by rebuilder's standards) --- we always bore that passageway out at least a few drill sizes to help allow the excess fluid to run back into the pan, less restricted.
The seal can usually handle this excess flow - it's not much pressure after all.​
It WILL shorten the life of the seal by inverting the lips or pushing it out of the pump housing however.​
Understand that?​

There are symptoms of losing the front bushing, 'way before it walks out and tries to go through the seal and you develop a leak ... you will likely experience soft shifts - drawn out or long shifts and/or no "countable " shifts at all.
Wow! This transmission is shifting so smoo-oo-thly! (NOT!).​

This is where the transmission is really shifting, but the pressure loss inside the pump doesn't help insure a smart-bright-tight hookup of the friction material and it just slides into the next gear - all the while the previous gear has long ago (in shift-time) let go of the previous friction material.
Once this happens, the fluid goes dark rapidly and can be burnt to the taste (Yes --- I said; "Taste").​
FTR -- there is NO SLIP-N-SLIDE in the clutches or bands.​
NONE!​
The hook-up is so violent and abrupt, you'd chirp the tores every shift.​
If there wasan't a torque convertor between the engine and the transmission, you'd lose all your teeth every time it shifted.​
That takes pressure and if it's not there things burn.​
I bought the envoy for $800cad and the story was from the guy that he was driving down the road and he saw a bunch of smoke in the rear view, pulled over, and saw the transmission losing fluid. He said it shifted with no issues. Apparently the transmission was already rebuilt when he bought it 100k kms ago.

I guess what I can do is inspect the converter for scoring and that will suggest bigger issues? If not I can replace the seals and be on my way? I guess it would also be a good idea to get the converter pressure tested while its out. Also maybe I should order a seal retainer as you mentioned.

Thanks
What in hell is pressure testing the convertor all about?

The trouble is not from a leaky convertor ... it's the front pump seal unless you know something you're not stating.

The pump has to come out ... it's almost a slam-dunk because it is a common failure.

Rebuilt before? That usually is condemnatory of the previous rebuilder as I stated in my last post.

Listen to me good hear ... pull the unit and remove the front pump, buy a reman'd convertor and put it back together.

Don't go off the reservation by chasing unicorns and fluffy bunnies.

But you will likely not be able to replace the front pump if you've never done this unit before. Just pulling the pump out if you don't have the transmission pointing up .... well ... enjoy the bunnies.
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What in hell is pressure testing the convertor all about?

The trouble is not from a leaky convertor ... it's the front pump seal unless you know something you're not stating.

The pump has to come out ... it's almost a slam-dunk because it is a common failure.

Rebuilt before? That usually is condemnatory of the previous rebuilder as I stated in my last post.

Listen to me good hear ... pull the unit and remove the front pump, buy a reman'd convertor and put it back together.

Don't go off the reservation by chasing unicorns and fluffy bunnies.

But you will likely not be able to replace the front pump if you've never done this unit before. Just pulling the pump out if you don't have the transmission pointing up .... well ... enjoy the bunnies.
I am not very experienced with transmissions so excuse my ignorance. So my best bet is to likely take the trans into a shop to get them to look at it to get the pump and bushings replaced + seals? It does leak a fair bit just from idling. So if I were to take out the trans and just replace the converter seal (front main seal?) it would likely leak again since the seal would just become damaged again?

Thanks, just trying to learn.
I think the take away here is that you may be getting in a little over your head. Which is not to say you CAN'T do it, but you may certainly get more than you bargained for.

For what it's worth, I'd call a transmission shop and ask how much the difference would be if you R&R the transmission. It might be that they won't even touch it unless it's in the vehicle because they don't want any liability or hassle associated with a customer damaging a transmission during the course of removing or reinstalling it, then blaming them. I don't know that for sure, but I do know most shops won't install customer provided parts because of this kind of thing. Shops are getting picky about what they'll do and I don't really blame them.
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I think the take away here is that you may be getting in a little over your head. Which is not to say you CAN'T do it, but you may certainly get more than you bargained for.

For what it's worth, I'd call a transmission shop and ask how much the difference would be if you R&R the transmission. It might be that they won't even touch it unless it's in the vehicle because they don't want any liability or hassle associated with a customer damaging a transmission during the course of removing or reinstalling it, then blaming them. I don't know that for sure, but I do know most shops won't install customer provided parts because of this kind of thing. Shops are getting picky about what they'll do and I don't really blame them.
I might just give it a go, drop the trans, replace converter, pump seals + bushing. Even better might just give the pump to a shop for them to install the new bushing and seal.
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I might just give it a go, drop the trans, replace converter, pump seals + bushing. Even better might just give the pump to a shop for them to install the new bushing and seal.
If you've never replaced the front bushing ..... the chances of getting it right the first 5 or 6 times by an inexperienced novice is practically nill.

FTR --- to replace the pump bushing, requires taking the pump totally out of the unit, taking it apart, inspecting the rotor/blades/housing/drive/reaction rings/side seals/pivot seal/etc and KNOWING WHAT IT IS YOU ARE SEEING ..... and this is just diagnosing, not repairing yet.

Buy a pump stator alignment tool, a new HD reaction drum, P&R or a Banner Kit, reman'd convertor, the newest/best front bushing design, staking tool, and this isn't talking about the extra long 3/8" extention (mine is 42") to access those pesky upper bellhousing bolts ... and a smoke wrench for those nasty exhaust bolts/studs --- and the hits keep right on a-coming for tools and stuff.

There are a lot of old timer SOP and "field-experienced" rebuilders who had their first half dozen or so, bushings fail because of bad technique, the wrong tool, the wrong press collet, too much hitting, too little hitting, incorrect staking, wrong staking tool, not using latest upgraded bushing, lack of cleanliness, too much beer, not enough beer ........

If you've never pulled a 4WD unit .... and I'm not saying on your back, laying on cardboard in a dirt driveway ... but on a 4-post 4 arm-hoist with a Wudel, air tools and inside a real shop .... you're gonna wish you had jobbed the whole thing to experienced professionals.

The R&R guy can destroy any good rebuild with bad technique ... even with a Haynes in one hand and a voodoo doll in the other.

I've exhausted my experiences and advice to you .... at this point, I have nothing else to offer you except consolations.

A nod is as good as a wink to a blind horse.

Have a happy day. Or not.
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