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Towing Question

1190 Views 31 Replies 7 Participants Last post by  Ravalli Surfer
Good morning,

I have a 2002 Trailblazer LTZ with the 3.42 rear diff, RPO code GU6. I don't tow with it. I've never towed anything before aside from hitting my toe on the side of the coffee table for all eternity.

I'm looking to tow a 2009 Murano a couple hundred miles and want to make sure I understand everything and can do it safely. From what I can tell, I need information on the trailer hitch, the ball and the mount. I don't have a ball and mount yet.

I have pasted below a picture of the sticker on the trailer hitch currently installed.

Automotive tire Hood Fender Gas Bumper


The hitch ball and mount combo I'm looking at is rated to tow up to 7,500 pounds. I'm going to be using one of those U-Haul automotive trailers that has the hydraulic braking system and a bunch of other safety features, as well as getting the necessary wiring for the trailer lights and the braking system. I have all that figured. It's the actual tow weight that is hanging me up.

I'm not sure if everything I have and will have will be enough to tow this POS Murano where I need to, which is why I'm here.

I'm hoping the experts can shine some light on this and help me determine if I'm trailering it or shipping it.

Thank you.

EDIT:

I have the following information from the manual based on the 3.42 rear axle ratio:

Axle Ratio: 3.42
Max. Trailer Wt.: 5,400 lbs. (2 449 kg)
GCWR: 10,000 lbs. (4 535 kg)

Greek to me but I'm assuming max trailer weight is the weight of the trailer empty and GCWR is the weight of the trailer, the POS Murano being towed and whatever other cargo and passengers there will be. It'll be me driving solo.
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Thank you for this. I'm hoping mine is in a good enough setup to tow what I need. I've heard conflicting stories about the actual towing capacity being higher than what's in the book due to not wanting to cut into Tahoe sales. Not sure the credibility behind it, but whatever. Thank you again.
Since we all live in "Lawyerland" the manufacturers will obviously UNDERstate the capacity to keep their mammary glands out of the water extractor.
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Since we all live in "Lawyerland" the manufacturers will obviously UNDERstate the capacity to keep their mammary glands out of the water extractor.
You're absolutely right and it's only gone to make things worse.

Can you decipher what the label on my hitch means in the picture I pasted in the original post? I'm not sure what number to look at and can't find the matching information in the manual.

I think a weight distributing hitch will allow me a little more leeway in towing and I've been looking at the CURT 17057 setup along with the 40090 2" ball and the 19749 safety chains.
Let's bring that pix around here again first ....

Automotive tire Hood Bumper Fender Automotive exterior


OK .........

A DEAD WEIGHT load without any load-shifting assistance, is limited to 400lbs on a MAXIMUM GROSS WEIGHT 4,000lb trailer. That's 10% of the trailer is dead weight on the ball --- just like a 400lb fat lady standing on it and dropping the rear of the car to the rubber baby buggy-bumper stops.

An Equalizer-style hitched trailer can have a MAXIMUM GROSS WEIGHT of 7,600lbs and have a tongue weight of 912lbs.

TYPICALLY - you want about 10-15% of the whole trailer weight as a dead weight on the hitch ball.
That's for safety so the trailer doesn't get to make you go left when you want to go straight --- or right.​

Here's the Lawyerland Worm Warning and Absolution Words on that placard:

Tow vehicle maximum trailer rating may be less.
You have been warned - so you can't sue us!
Ha-ha!
Neener-neener
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For what I'm looking to tow, the combined weight of the trailer and the POS Murano comes in at just under 7,500 lbs. The manual caps out a 3.42 rear diff in 2WD mode GCWR at 10,000 lbs. Does this mean I can use a weight distribution hitch rated to tow 10,000 to 14,000 lbs. gross trailer weight and 1,000 to 1,400 lbs. tongue weight, along with a ball rated to 10,000 lbs.? Or will I be overloading the capabilities?

THIS is the hitch system I'm looking at and THIS is the ball.
I wont tow anymore then half of what im rated for. If you tow that car and the trailer good luck. I see people towing stuff all the time with the wrong vehicle .
At one point you are only pulling what you tow and carrying just a small percentage of it.

A weight distributing hitch assy will UP the value of what you tow, weight-wise, by transferring the ball load back onto the trailer and also at the same time sending part of that weight equally to all 4 wheels of the towing vehicle.

It's a complicated concept but I remember the Valley Hitch guy coming by my shop in the late 1960s with an Oldsmobile Toronado and one of their load-equalizing hitches --- and he had no rear wheels on the car.

ALL the weight was transferred to the front wheels - and although this was not recommended as a working model - it showed how the hitch worked by keeping the heavy dead weight off the ball and sent it to all the wheels including those of the trailer - back onto the ground.

If you keep the nose weight bias correct --- and that is usually 10-15% of the total trailer weight - on the ball as a way to keep the trailer from pushing the tow vehicle around, then --- theoretically - yes --- the towing weight is limited by the horsepower created by the towing vehicle - and the combined brakes of both the trailer and the vehicle.

Pulling of rolling weight isn't too much of a problem --- up to a point ---- it's bearing/carrying that weight, accelerating and stopping it well and of course: steering with it in tow.

FTR ---> locomotives don't carry the weight of all the cargo cars behind it --- it just pulls and stops it --- although each car has it's own brakes to help.

You don't carry all the weight with a load-bearing hitch --- you just send that weight somewhere else --- minus the percentage of that weight to keep the trailer weight bias correct.

I tow approximately 10,000 lbs of wood from where I cut the trees - on the highway with my TB using a weight distributing hitch and 2-axle electric brakes on the trailer. I keep the speed at controllable values and anticipate turns, braking areas and where to downshift and where to just use the brakes.

I use a Reese 1,000lb equalizing hitch spring set, 2 5/16" ball and dual sway controls with both trailer axles having electric brakes.
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Go here and read some more .... especially the nay-sayers .......

Thank you again for all the info. I will be reading this at lunch today. I do like that picture of the rear wheel-less car towing the trailer. Quite a statement to be made their.
For what I'm looking to tow, the combined weight of the trailer and the POS Murano comes in at just under 7,500 lbs. The manual caps out a 3.42 rear diff in 2WD mode GCWR at 10,000 lbs. Does this mean I can use a weight distribution hitch rated to tow 10,000 to 14,000 lbs. gross trailer weight and 1,000 to 1,400 lbs. tongue weight, along with a ball rated to 10,000 lbs.? Or will I be overloading the capabilities?

THIS is the hitch system I'm looking at and THIS is the ball.
a 2" ball is too small once you hit the magic-mark of 7,500lbs trailer weight.
--- you need a 2 5/16"​
.............and Curt is NOT my favorite company at the moment.​

I'm either a Valley or Reese fanboi.
I'll look into them as well. You've given me a great starting point. As far as the ball, the trailer I'm looking to rent accommodates up to a 2" ball.
I'll look into them as well. You've given me a great starting point. As far as the ball, the trailer I'm looking to rent accommodates up to a 2" ball.
OK --- the trailer may be 2" and you can change the ball on your vehicle from 2 5/16" to the 2" --- and that's been done before by me too --- but the dedicated Equalizer hitch assy has to be in the stinger since the spring arms go into it/them/they.
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