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Towing Question

1294 Views 31 Replies 7 Participants Last post by  Ravalli Surfer
Good morning,

I have a 2002 Trailblazer LTZ with the 3.42 rear diff, RPO code GU6. I don't tow with it. I've never towed anything before aside from hitting my toe on the side of the coffee table for all eternity.

I'm looking to tow a 2009 Murano a couple hundred miles and want to make sure I understand everything and can do it safely. From what I can tell, I need information on the trailer hitch, the ball and the mount. I don't have a ball and mount yet.

I have pasted below a picture of the sticker on the trailer hitch currently installed.

Automotive tire Hood Fender Gas Bumper

The hitch ball and mount combo I'm looking at is rated to tow up to 7,500 pounds. I'm going to be using one of those U-Haul automotive trailers that has the hydraulic braking system and a bunch of other safety features, as well as getting the necessary wiring for the trailer lights and the braking system. I have all that figured. It's the actual tow weight that is hanging me up.

I'm not sure if everything I have and will have will be enough to tow this POS Murano where I need to, which is why I'm here.

I'm hoping the experts can shine some light on this and help me determine if I'm trailering it or shipping it.

Thank you.


I have the following information from the manual based on the 3.42 rear axle ratio:

Axle Ratio: 3.42
Max. Trailer Wt.: 5,400 lbs. (2 449 kg)
GCWR: 10,000 lbs. (4 535 kg)

Greek to me but I'm assuming max trailer weight is the weight of the trailer empty and GCWR is the weight of the trailer, the POS Murano being towed and whatever other cargo and passengers there will be. It'll be me driving solo.
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I'd first say look in your manual for the towing specs based on your rear end. Just cause the hitch is rated for those numbers doesn't mean your vehicle is. I don't have mine with me or I would have looked in the manual and posted the numbers.
Thank you for the response. I failed to mention that I did check the manual for numbers and have the following information:

Axle Ratio: 3.42
Max. Trailer Wt. 5,400 lbs. (2 449 kg)
GCWR 10,000 lbs. (4 535 kg)

Greek to me but I'm assuming max trailer weight is the weight of the trailer empty and GCWR is the weight of the trailer, the POS Murano being towed and whatever other cargo and passengers there will be. It'll be me driving solo.
Max trailer weight is weight of trailer plus whatever is on it. GCWR is all you said plus the weight of your vehicle as well.
Shoot. I think the weight of my TB, the POS Murano and the trailer are going to exceed that 10,000 pound limit.
If the murano is FWD you can use a dolly, should skirt in under the 10k
It's AWD and the GVW is around 4030.
.... and a 1/2 tank of fuel.

Mike --- I have towed 2 to 3 cords of wood and according to the season (wet wood or dried out a bit) the weight varies with time.

I am very sure that it is well over 6-7,000 lbs for the wood alone, plus the trailer adding another 1,000 lbs .... and have had no troubles with doing it almost every year.

Add in a couple of buddies (I can only lift 15lbs and if I have to exceed that limit, I have to remove the appropriate amount of clothing to compensate) so they do all the grunt stuff. Don't worry --- I feed them well.

Chainsaws, fuel, a survival pack (150lbs at least) and down the road we go --- safely and I feel with very good control.

Of course, I use electric b rakes because surge brakes are really not very good and they grab - or fail to grab -- and they are really miserable to back up with as they will apply unless you jump out of the seat and put the lockout pin (usually missing-lost on U-Haul stuff) in the actuator every time you need to go in reverse. A Royal pain in the a$$ if you ask me.

WARNING --- most chimpanzee/ex-burger-flippers working at U-Haul, cannot figure out the stock lighting on your TB and they can certainly screw it up by tapping into wires and bulbs with their limited intelligence.

I would never allow anyone by ME to add trailer wiring to my vehicle because the trailer lights have NOTHING TO DO WITH THE ACTUAL TAILLIGHTS OR BRAKE LIGHTS!
They are a seperate circuit alltogether!​
A big problem is that GM didn't comply with the RVIAA standards for trailer electrical wiring --- I think they went with the:
The Royal Canadian 'Electricity Is Ethereal; Is Omnipotetent' Wiring Society standards ... or better known as ---> 'EIEIO' standard.

Sadly, you cannot convert the RV (hah-ha!) connector on the back of your TB (a pox on GM engineers for this) to the RVIAA wiring positions and you will need to either replace the car-side connex with a real trailer wiring receptical or find some sortta convertor.

The GM Pins vary in size (of course they do!) and current carrying capacity (natch!) and if you tried for a conversion, positionally, all the grounds woiuld go through the smallest connector on the vehicle-side ... and that's a no-no.

On the convertor --- I don't think such a thing exists --- not as far south from Canada as I am anyway.

Oh yeah --- ya gotta connect the red mystery wire - under the hood, driver's side, next to the fuse/relay box.

I'll be back after Physical Therapy ....
I actually connected that red wire on your recommendation a few months back.

The truck has the 7 pin connector installed and I can figure out what the trailer side looks like and get an adapter or make one. I can follow schematics enough to build my own harness if need be.

The U-Haul rental trailer uses surge brakes. I'll have to see if somewhere else has ones to rent or just go with that.

It's a NY to Florida trip and more than likely going to be a one way deal. I need to get down there with that POS Murano and trailer towed behind me safely.

I'm not sure how much a cord of wood weighs and can only assume it's somewhere near 4,000 to 5,000 for wet.

Do you tow with the Trailblazer or the K5?
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.... oh yeah ..... I also use a Sway Control.
That popped up on my RADAR while searching info on towing. They sound ideal for towing heavy stuff and I have some more research to do.
I may have to just invest myself a trailer and not have to deal with the knuckleheads at U-Haul. Or just have the vehicles shipped. Might cost me less in fuel and rental.
What about flat towing it?
Don't think you can with an AWD vehicle
You're right.
You'll be fine.
I've got the same setup on my LS, the 3.42 axle ratio.
Used the U-haul tandem axle trailer to carry a 1970 Chevelle 300 miles with no issues.
Fuel economy will suffer! I think I got about 12.5 mpg on the trip.
Tandem trailers are a dream to pull - very stable.

I purchased a round to flat-4 electrical converter from either Harbor Freight or U-haul.

Naturally, since you will be near maxxed out, plan your braking ahead of time as your stopping distances will greatly increase from what you are used to. With surge brakes, the rule is press the brake and DO NOT LET UP or you will get whiplash. Also, with surge brakes, braking and swerving are a quick recipe for a very bad day.

Whatever you do, watch your speed because if you get into a situation going too fast and you swerve, your trailer may attempt to pass you and then you will be along for the ride.

Fortunately, the Trailblazer is set up for towing.
Just take your time and you'll be fine.
About the only time you'll be driving 55.
Thank you for this. I'm hoping mine is in a good enough setup to tow what I need. I've heard conflicting stories about the actual towing capacity being higher than what's in the book due to not wanting to cut into Tahoe sales. Not sure the credibility behind it, but whatever. Thank you again.
Since we all live in "Lawyerland" the manufacturers will obviously UNDERstate the capacity to keep their mammary glands out of the water extractor.
You're absolutely right and it's only gone to make things worse.

Can you decipher what the label on my hitch means in the picture I pasted in the original post? I'm not sure what number to look at and can't find the matching information in the manual.

I think a weight distributing hitch will allow me a little more leeway in towing and I've been looking at the CURT 17057 setup along with the 40090 2" ball and the 19749 safety chains.
For what I'm looking to tow, the combined weight of the trailer and the POS Murano comes in at just under 7,500 lbs. The manual caps out a 3.42 rear diff in 2WD mode GCWR at 10,000 lbs. Does this mean I can use a weight distribution hitch rated to tow 10,000 to 14,000 lbs. gross trailer weight and 1,000 to 1,400 lbs. tongue weight, along with a ball rated to 10,000 lbs.? Or will I be overloading the capabilities?

THIS is the hitch system I'm looking at and THIS is the ball.
Thank you again for all the info. I will be reading this at lunch today. I do like that picture of the rear wheel-less car towing the trailer. Quite a statement to be made their.
I'll look into them as well. You've given me a great starting point. As far as the ball, the trailer I'm looking to rent accommodates up to a 2" ball.
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