I'd first say look in your manual for the towing specs based on your rear end. Just cause the hitch is rated for those numbers doesn't mean your vehicle is. I don't have mine with me or I would have looked in the manual and posted the numbers.
Towing Question
Good morning,
I have a 2002 Trailblazer LTZ with the 3.42 rear diff, RPO code GU6. I don't tow with it. I've never towed anything before aside from hitting my toe on the side of the coffee table for all eternity.
I'm looking to tow a 2009 Murano a couple hundred miles and want to make sure I understand everything and can do it safely. From what I can tell, I need information on the trailer hitch, the ball and the mount. I don't have a ball and mount yet.
I have pasted below a picture of the sticker on the trailer hitch currently installed.
![Automotive tire Hood Fender Gas Bumper]()
The hitch ball and mount combo I'm looking at is rated to tow up to 7,500 pounds. I'm going to be using one of those U-Haul automotive trailers that has the hydraulic braking system and a bunch of other safety features, as well as getting the necessary wiring for the trailer lights and the braking system. I have all that figured. It's the actual tow weight that is hanging me up.
I'm not sure if everything I have and will have will be enough to tow this POS Murano where I need to, which is why I'm here.
I'm hoping the experts can shine some light on this and help me determine if I'm trailering it or shipping it.
Thank you.
EDIT:
I have the following information from the manual based on the 3.42 rear axle ratio:
Axle Ratio: 3.42
Max. Trailer Wt.: 5,400 lbs. (2 449 kg)
GCWR: 10,000 lbs. (4 535 kg)
Greek to me but I'm assuming max trailer weight is the weight of the trailer empty and GCWR is the weight of the trailer, the POS Murano being towed and whatever other cargo and passengers there will be. It'll be me driving solo.
I have a 2002 Trailblazer LTZ with the 3.42 rear diff, RPO code GU6. I don't tow with it. I've never towed anything before aside from hitting my toe on the side of the coffee table for all eternity.
I'm looking to tow a 2009 Murano a couple hundred miles and want to make sure I understand everything and can do it safely. From what I can tell, I need information on the trailer hitch, the ball and the mount. I don't have a ball and mount yet.
I have pasted below a picture of the sticker on the trailer hitch currently installed.
The hitch ball and mount combo I'm looking at is rated to tow up to 7,500 pounds. I'm going to be using one of those U-Haul automotive trailers that has the hydraulic braking system and a bunch of other safety features, as well as getting the necessary wiring for the trailer lights and the braking system. I have all that figured. It's the actual tow weight that is hanging me up.
I'm not sure if everything I have and will have will be enough to tow this POS Murano where I need to, which is why I'm here.
I'm hoping the experts can shine some light on this and help me determine if I'm trailering it or shipping it.
Thank you.
EDIT:
I have the following information from the manual based on the 3.42 rear axle ratio:
Axle Ratio: 3.42
Max. Trailer Wt.: 5,400 lbs. (2 449 kg)
GCWR: 10,000 lbs. (4 535 kg)
Greek to me but I'm assuming max trailer weight is the weight of the trailer empty and GCWR is the weight of the trailer, the POS Murano being towed and whatever other cargo and passengers there will be. It'll be me driving solo.
1 - 20 of 32 Posts
Thank you for the response. I failed to mention that I did check the manual for numbers and have the following information:I'd first say look in your manual for the towing specs based on your rear end. Just cause the hitch is rated for those numbers doesn't mean your vehicle is. I don't have mine with me or I would have looked in the manual and posted the numbers.
Axle Ratio: 3.42
Max. Trailer Wt. 5,400 lbs. (2 449 kg)
GCWR 10,000 lbs. (4 535 kg)
Greek to me but I'm assuming max trailer weight is the weight of the trailer empty and GCWR is the weight of the trailer, the POS Murano being towed and whatever other cargo and passengers there will be. It'll be me driving solo.
Thank you for the response. I failed to mention that I did check the manual for numbers and have the following information:
Axle Ratio: 3.42
Max. Trailer Wt. 5,400 lbs. (2 449 kg)
GCWR 10,000 lbs. (4 535 kg)
Greek to me but I'm assuming max trailer weight is the weight of the trailer empty and GCWR is the weight of the trailer, the POS Murano being towed and whatever other cargo and passengers there will be. It'll be me driving solo.
GCWR Is the combined vehicle and trailer max weight. "Gross Combined Vehicle Weight Rating". So 4000lb car, 2000lb trailer and 4000lb car is an example of the max config
Max trailer weight is weight of trailer plus whatever is on it. GCWR is all you said plus the weight of your vehicle as well.
Shoot. I think the weight of my TB, the POS Murano and the trailer are going to exceed that 10,000 pound limit.Max trailer weight is weight of trailer plus whatever is on it. GCWR is all you said plus the weight of your vehicle as well.
If the murano is FWD you can use a dolly, should skirt in under the 10kShoot. I think the weight of my TB, the POS Murano and the trailer are going to exceed that 10,000 pound limit.
It's AWD and the GVW is around 4030.If the murano is FWD you can use a dolly, should skirt in under the 10k
.... and a 1/2 tank of fuel.
Mike --- I have towed 2 to 3 cords of wood and according to the season (wet wood or dried out a bit) the weight varies with time.
I am very sure that it is well over 6-7,000 lbs for the wood alone, plus the trailer adding another 1,000 lbs .... and have had no troubles with doing it almost every year.
Add in a couple of buddies (I can only lift 15lbs and if I have to exceed that limit, I have to remove the appropriate amount of clothing to compensate) so they do all the grunt stuff. Don't worry --- I feed them well.
Chainsaws, fuel, a survival pack (150lbs at least) and down the road we go --- safely and I feel with very good control.
Of course, I use electric b rakes because surge brakes are really not very good and they grab - or fail to grab -- and they are really miserable to back up with as they will apply unless you jump out of the seat and put the lockout pin (usually missing-lost on U-Haul stuff) in the actuator every time you need to go in reverse. A Royal pain in the a$$ if you ask me.
WARNING --- most chimpanzee/ex-burger-flippers working at U-Haul, cannot figure out the stock lighting on your TB and they can certainly screw it up by tapping into wires and bulbs with their limited intelligence.
I would never allow anyone by ME to add trailer wiring to my vehicle because the trailer lights have NOTHING TO DO WITH THE ACTUAL TAILLIGHTS OR BRAKE LIGHTS!
The Royal Canadian 'Electricity Is Ethereal; Is Omnipotetent' Wiring Society standards ... or better known as ---> 'EIEIO' standard.
Sadly, you cannot convert the RV (hah-ha!) connector on the back of your TB (a pox on GM engineers for this) to the RVIAA wiring positions and you will need to either replace the car-side connex with a real trailer wiring receptical or find some sortta convertor.
The GM Pins vary in size (of course they do!) and current carrying capacity (natch!) and if you tried for a conversion, positionally, all the grounds woiuld go through the smallest connector on the vehicle-side ... and that's a no-no.
On the convertor --- I don't think such a thing exists --- not as far south from Canada as I am anyway.
Oh yeah --- ya gotta connect the red mystery wire - under the hood, driver's side, next to the fuse/relay box.
I'll be back after Physical Therapy ....
.
Mike --- I have towed 2 to 3 cords of wood and according to the season (wet wood or dried out a bit) the weight varies with time.
I am very sure that it is well over 6-7,000 lbs for the wood alone, plus the trailer adding another 1,000 lbs .... and have had no troubles with doing it almost every year.
Add in a couple of buddies (I can only lift 15lbs and if I have to exceed that limit, I have to remove the appropriate amount of clothing to compensate) so they do all the grunt stuff. Don't worry --- I feed them well.
Chainsaws, fuel, a survival pack (150lbs at least) and down the road we go --- safely and I feel with very good control.
Of course, I use electric b rakes because surge brakes are really not very good and they grab - or fail to grab -- and they are really miserable to back up with as they will apply unless you jump out of the seat and put the lockout pin (usually missing-lost on U-Haul stuff) in the actuator every time you need to go in reverse. A Royal pain in the a$$ if you ask me.
WARNING --- most chimpanzee/ex-burger-flippers working at U-Haul, cannot figure out the stock lighting on your TB and they can certainly screw it up by tapping into wires and bulbs with their limited intelligence.
I would never allow anyone by ME to add trailer wiring to my vehicle because the trailer lights have NOTHING TO DO WITH THE ACTUAL TAILLIGHTS OR BRAKE LIGHTS!
They are a seperate circuit alltogether!
A big problem is that GM didn't comply with the RVIAA standards for trailer electrical wiring --- I think they went with the:The Royal Canadian 'Electricity Is Ethereal; Is Omnipotetent' Wiring Society standards ... or better known as ---> 'EIEIO' standard.
Sadly, you cannot convert the RV (hah-ha!) connector on the back of your TB (a pox on GM engineers for this) to the RVIAA wiring positions and you will need to either replace the car-side connex with a real trailer wiring receptical or find some sortta convertor.
The GM Pins vary in size (of course they do!) and current carrying capacity (natch!) and if you tried for a conversion, positionally, all the grounds woiuld go through the smallest connector on the vehicle-side ... and that's a no-no.
On the convertor --- I don't think such a thing exists --- not as far south from Canada as I am anyway.
Oh yeah --- ya gotta connect the red mystery wire - under the hood, driver's side, next to the fuse/relay box.
I'll be back after Physical Therapy ....
.
.... oh yeah ..... I also use a Sway Control.
I actually connected that red wire on your recommendation a few months back..... and a 1/2 tank of fuel.
Mike --- I have towed 2 to 3 cords of wood and according to the season (wet wood or dried out a bit) the weight varies with time.
I am very sure that it is well over 6-7,000 lbs for the wood alone, plus the trailer adding another 1,000 lbs .... and have had no troubles with doing it almost every year.
Add in a couple of buddies (I can only lift 15lbs and if I have to exceed that limit, I have to remove the appropriate amount of clothing to compensate) so they do all the grunt stuff. Don't worry --- I feed them well.
Chainsaws, fuel, a survival pack (150lbs at least) and down the road we go --- safely and I feel with very good control.
Of course, I use electric b rakes because surge brakes are really not very good and they grab - or fail to grab -- and they are really miserable to back up with as they will apply unless you jump out of the seat and put the lockout pin (usually missing-lost on U-Haul stuff) in the actuator every time you need to go in reverse. A Royal pain in the a$$ if you ask me.
WARNING --- most chimpanzee/ex-burger-flippers working at U-Haul, cannot figure out the stock lighting on your TB and they can certainly screw it up by tapping into wires and bulbs with their limited intelligence.
I would never allow anyone by ME to add trailer wiring to my vehicle because the trailer lights have NOTHING TO DO WITH THE ACTUAL TAILLIGHTS OR BRAKE LIGHTS!
They are a seperate circuit alltogether!A big problem is that GM didn't comply with the RVIAA standards for trailer electrical wiring --- I think they went with the:
The Royal Canadian 'Electricity Is Ethereal; Is Omnipotetent' Wiring Society standards ... or better known as ---> 'EIEIO' standard.
Sadly, you cannot convert the RV (hah-ha!) connector on the back of your TB (a pox on GM engineers for this) to the RVIAA wiring positions and you will need to either replace the car-side connex with a real trailer wiring receptical or find some sortta convertor.
The GM Pins vary in size (of course they do!) and current carrying capacity (natch!) and if you tried for a conversion, positionally, all the grounds woiuld go through the smallest connector on the vehicle-side ... and that's a no-no.
On the convertor --- I don't think such a thing exists --- not as far south from Canada as I am anyway.
Oh yeah --- ya gotta connect the red mystery wire - under the hood, driver's side, next to the fuse/relay box.
I'll be back after Physical Therapy ....
.
The truck has the 7 pin connector installed and I can figure out what the trailer side looks like and get an adapter or make one. I can follow schematics enough to build my own harness if need be.
The U-Haul rental trailer uses surge brakes. I'll have to see if somewhere else has ones to rent or just go with that.
It's a NY to Florida trip and more than likely going to be a one way deal. I need to get down there with that POS Murano and trailer towed behind me safely.
I'm not sure how much a cord of wood weighs and can only assume it's somewhere near 4,000 to 5,000 for wet.
Do you tow with the Trailblazer or the K5?
That popped up on my RADAR while searching info on towing. They sound ideal for towing heavy stuff and I have some more research to do..... oh yeah ..... I also use a Sway Control.
duplicate.
Yeah --- wet or dry, I am considerably over 5,000 lbs + naked traIler weignt and accessories --- saws, warm bodies, stuff and more stuff.
This is towing with the TB after I get the trailer outta the woods with the K5. The K5 wheelbase is too short for a fully loaded 6,000+ lbs trailer ---- the TB is an EXT and it makes a difference.
Sidebar ---> I only have ST215R75/15 E-rated 10 ply trailer tires on it at 60# pressure to keep the sidewalls from flexing ---- flexing causes blowouts and STs are not designed to allow the sidewalls to flex. They are tread-strong, not sidewall-strong.
If you load the trailer correctly, with @ 60% front bias, all should be good.
BTW -- the trailer is a dual axle, 8'x12' with 6'6" side rails at the front half ... so I can really stack a lot of wood in it.
Yeah --- wet or dry, I am considerably over 5,000 lbs + naked traIler weignt and accessories --- saws, warm bodies, stuff and more stuff.
This is towing with the TB after I get the trailer outta the woods with the K5. The K5 wheelbase is too short for a fully loaded 6,000+ lbs trailer ---- the TB is an EXT and it makes a difference.
Sidebar ---> I only have ST215R75/15 E-rated 10 ply trailer tires on it at 60# pressure to keep the sidewalls from flexing ---- flexing causes blowouts and STs are not designed to allow the sidewalls to flex. They are tread-strong, not sidewall-strong.
If you load the trailer correctly, with @ 60% front bias, all should be good.
BTW -- the trailer is a dual axle, 8'x12' with 6'6" side rails at the front half ... so I can really stack a lot of wood in it.
I may have to just invest myself a trailer and not have to deal with the knuckleheads at U-Haul. Or just have the vehicles shipped. Might cost me less in fuel and rental.
What about flat towing it?
Don't think you can with an AWD vehicleWhat about flat towing it?
You're right.Don't think you can with an AWD vehicle
The Murano is about 3,865 to 4,165 lbs. You should be good.
You'll be fine.
I've got the same setup on my LS, the 3.42 axle ratio.
Used the U-haul tandem axle trailer to carry a 1970 Chevelle 300 miles with no issues.
Fuel economy will suffer! I think I got about 12.5 mpg on the trip.
Tandem trailers are a dream to pull - very stable.
I purchased a round to flat-4 electrical converter from either Harbor Freight or U-haul.
Naturally, since you will be near maxxed out, plan your braking ahead of time as your stopping distances will greatly increase from what you are used to. With surge brakes, the rule is press the brake and DO NOT LET UP or you will get whiplash. Also, with surge brakes, braking and swerving are a quick recipe for a very bad day.
Whatever you do, watch your speed because if you get into a situation going too fast and you swerve, your trailer may attempt to pass you and then you will be along for the ride.
Fortunately, the Trailblazer is set up for towing.
Just take your time and you'll be fine.
About the only time you'll be driving 55.
I've got the same setup on my LS, the 3.42 axle ratio.
Used the U-haul tandem axle trailer to carry a 1970 Chevelle 300 miles with no issues.
Fuel economy will suffer! I think I got about 12.5 mpg on the trip.
Tandem trailers are a dream to pull - very stable.
I purchased a round to flat-4 electrical converter from either Harbor Freight or U-haul.
Naturally, since you will be near maxxed out, plan your braking ahead of time as your stopping distances will greatly increase from what you are used to. With surge brakes, the rule is press the brake and DO NOT LET UP or you will get whiplash. Also, with surge brakes, braking and swerving are a quick recipe for a very bad day.
Whatever you do, watch your speed because if you get into a situation going too fast and you swerve, your trailer may attempt to pass you and then you will be along for the ride.
Fortunately, the Trailblazer is set up for towing.
Just take your time and you'll be fine.
About the only time you'll be driving 55.
Thank you for this. I'm hoping mine is in a good enough setup to tow what I need. I've heard conflicting stories about the actual towing capacity being higher than what's in the book due to not wanting to cut into Tahoe sales. Not sure the credibility behind it, but whatever. Thank you again.You'll be fine.
I've got the same setup on my LS, the 3.42 axle ratio.
Used the U-haul tandem axle trailer to carry a 1970 Chevelle 300 miles with no issues.
Fuel economy will suffer! I think I got about 12.5 mpg on the trip.
Tandem trailers are a dream to pull - very stable.
I purchased a round to flat-4 electrical converter from either Harbor Freight or U-haul.
Naturally, since you will be near maxxed out, plan your braking ahead of time as your stopping distances will greatly increase from what you are used to. With surge brakes, the rule is press the brake and DO NOT LET UP or you will get whiplash. Also, with surge brakes, braking and swerving are a quick recipe for a very bad day.
Whatever you do, watch your speed because if you get into a situation going too fast and you swerve, your trailer may attempt to pass you and then you will be along for the ride.
Fortunately, the Trailblazer is set up for towing.
Just take your time and you'll be fine.
About the only time you'll be driving 55.
1 - 20 of 32 Posts
Chevy TrailBlazer, TrailBlazer SS and GMC Envoy Forum
A forum community dedicated to Chevy Trailblazer and GMC Envoy owners and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about performance, modifications, troubleshooting, towing capacity, maintenance, and more!
Full Forum Listing
Explore Our Forums
Top Contributors this Month
View All
Ravalli Surfer
177 Replies
chem_man
123 Replies
metalmike187
88 Replies
Recommended Communities
