I'd first say look in your manual for the towing specs based on your rear end. Just cause the hitch is rated for those numbers doesn't mean your vehicle is. I don't have mine with me or I would have looked in the manual and posted the numbers.
Thank you for the response. I failed to mention that I did check the manual for numbers and have the following information:I'd first say look in your manual for the towing specs based on your rear end. Just cause the hitch is rated for those numbers doesn't mean your vehicle is. I don't have mine with me or I would have looked in the manual and posted the numbers.
Thank you for the response. I failed to mention that I did check the manual for numbers and have the following information:
Axle Ratio: 3.42
Max. Trailer Wt. 5,400 lbs. (2 449 kg)
GCWR 10,000 lbs. (4 535 kg)
Greek to me but I'm assuming max trailer weight is the weight of the trailer empty and GCWR is the weight of the trailer, the POS Murano being towed and whatever other cargo and passengers there will be. It'll be me driving solo.
Shoot. I think the weight of my TB, the POS Murano and the trailer are going to exceed that 10,000 pound limit.Max trailer weight is weight of trailer plus whatever is on it. GCWR is all you said plus the weight of your vehicle as well.
If the murano is FWD you can use a dolly, should skirt in under the 10kShoot. I think the weight of my TB, the POS Murano and the trailer are going to exceed that 10,000 pound limit.
It's AWD and the GVW is around 4030.If the murano is FWD you can use a dolly, should skirt in under the 10k
I actually connected that red wire on your recommendation a few months back..... and a 1/2 tank of fuel.
Mike --- I have towed 2 to 3 cords of wood and according to the season (wet wood or dried out a bit) the weight varies with time.
I am very sure that it is well over 6-7,000 lbs for the wood alone, plus the trailer adding another 1,000 lbs .... and have had no troubles with doing it almost every year.
Add in a couple of buddies (I can only lift 15lbs and if I have to exceed that limit, I have to remove the appropriate amount of clothing to compensate) so they do all the grunt stuff. Don't worry --- I feed them well.
Chainsaws, fuel, a survival pack (150lbs at least) and down the road we go --- safely and I feel with very good control.
Of course, I use electric b rakes because surge brakes are really not very good and they grab - or fail to grab -- and they are really miserable to back up with as they will apply unless you jump out of the seat and put the lockout pin (usually missing-lost on U-Haul stuff) in the actuator every time you need to go in reverse. A Royal pain in the a$$ if you ask me.
WARNING --- most chimpanzee/ex-burger-flippers working at U-Haul, cannot figure out the stock lighting on your TB and they can certainly screw it up by tapping into wires and bulbs with their limited intelligence.
I would never allow anyone by ME to add trailer wiring to my vehicle because the trailer lights have NOTHING TO DO WITH THE ACTUAL TAILLIGHTS OR BRAKE LIGHTS!
They are a seperate circuit alltogether!A big problem is that GM didn't comply with the RVIAA standards for trailer electrical wiring --- I think they went with the:
The Royal Canadian 'Electricity Is Ethereal; Is Omnipotetent' Wiring Society standards ... or better known as ---> 'EIEIO' standard.
Sadly, you cannot convert the RV (hah-ha!) connector on the back of your TB (a pox on GM engineers for this) to the RVIAA wiring positions and you will need to either replace the car-side connex with a real trailer wiring receptical or find some sortta convertor.
The GM Pins vary in size (of course they do!) and current carrying capacity (natch!) and if you tried for a conversion, positionally, all the grounds woiuld go through the smallest connector on the vehicle-side ... and that's a no-no.
On the convertor --- I don't think such a thing exists --- not as far south from Canada as I am anyway.
Oh yeah --- ya gotta connect the red mystery wire - under the hood, driver's side, next to the fuse/relay box.
I'll be back after Physical Therapy ....
That popped up on my RADAR while searching info on towing. They sound ideal for towing heavy stuff and I have some more research to do..... oh yeah ..... I also use a Sway Control.
Don't think you can with an AWD vehicleWhat about flat towing it?
Thank you for this. I'm hoping mine is in a good enough setup to tow what I need. I've heard conflicting stories about the actual towing capacity being higher than what's in the book due to not wanting to cut into Tahoe sales. Not sure the credibility behind it, but whatever. Thank you again.You'll be fine.
I've got the same setup on my LS, the 3.42 axle ratio.
Used the U-haul tandem axle trailer to carry a 1970 Chevelle 300 miles with no issues.
Fuel economy will suffer! I think I got about 12.5 mpg on the trip.
Tandem trailers are a dream to pull - very stable.
I purchased a round to flat-4 electrical converter from either Harbor Freight or U-haul.
Naturally, since you will be near maxxed out, plan your braking ahead of time as your stopping distances will greatly increase from what you are used to. With surge brakes, the rule is press the brake and DO NOT LET UP or you will get whiplash. Also, with surge brakes, braking and swerving are a quick recipe for a very bad day.
Whatever you do, watch your speed because if you get into a situation going too fast and you swerve, your trailer may attempt to pass you and then you will be along for the ride.
Fortunately, the Trailblazer is set up for towing.
Just take your time and you'll be fine.
About the only time you'll be driving 55.