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2003 chevy trailblazer_ltz
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48 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I finally got to start my install. I am putting in 4 HAW clear strobe tubes, 2 lin3's (B,A), wiring my current dual talon (B/B), and installing a BC550A scanner.


The power supply and rear strobe wires.


Strobe tube installed


Where is the best place to tap into for power? I was thinking of just getting it off the lug with the red wire, with a fuse box right next to it.


Was thinking of putting the lin3's up here. What does everyone think?

If I install there, is the nut next to the purple wire what I gotta remove to get the plastic around the license plate?
 

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2006 chevy trailblazer_ls
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4,009 Posts

The power supply and rear strobe wires.
That fits perfectly! What location is that? I am looking for a place to mount my second power supply.


Strobe tube installed
Nice!


Where is the best place to tap into for power? I was thinking of just getting it off the lug with the red wire, with a fuse box right next to it.
I was wondering the same thing, and asked the same question. That red wire is the main feed to that fuse block, so if something were to short, you'd lose all those fuses (from what I was told). Best to get one of those fuse taps and go from one of the switched fuses in the fuse box, again, from what I was told, or going right from the battery.


Was thinking of putting the lin3's up here. What does everyone think?
That is a good option. Instead of mounting to the plate pocket, have you considered a license plate mount for the LED's? Something like this:



That one is from http://www.whackerusa.com but many companies have versions of this.

If I install there, is the nut next to the purple wire what I gotta remove to get the plastic around the license plate?
I believe that is one of 5 that need to be removed, but again I am not sure. There is a section in the reverse camera install HERE that explains what is needed to remove the license plate pocket.



That's a great start you have there. I have started so many times. Sometime I will be done. :bonk:

Keep up the great pictures :yes: and let me know if you need anything else.

Chris
 

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2003 chevy trailblazer_ltz
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Discussion Starter #5
looks like under the rear seat, driver side, next to fuse panel...

Nice work BUFFaLOT! I also like Chris' idea of the Plate bracket.
Correct, just unsnap the plastic cover and it sits right in.

As far as the plate bracket, I figured I gotta drill a hole for the wires anyways, so I'm just going to mount it straight to the plate pocket. The provided grommet from Whelen looks pretty decent and should provide a good seal.

Should have an update for tomorrow, I hit the pillow hard after work today. :sleepy:
 

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2008 chevy
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49 Posts
dont tap into the fuse panel in the back, run off of the battery, you dont want to mess with your car's electrical system.
 

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2002 gmc envoy_slt
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85 Posts
I dont really see the problem with using that as a power source as long as you properly fuse it....which means using an extra fuse off that post probably a 10 amp fuse since the power supply will have a 15 that way you are good just in case
 

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2006 chevy trailblazer_lt
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The ideas are great...sorry I'm jumping in late; hopefully you can still use some of this information.

The rear plate pocket...I had a pair of TIR3's on a plate bracket some time ago. To get the wires out of the tailgate I used an awl to push them through the center of the lower rubber bumpers where the lower license plate holes line up; didn't have to drill a hole for the wires :cool:
To get the pocket off isn't too difficult...5 (I think) nuts and it will push off. It's also a good opportunity to clean off some of the crap that the seal leaves on the body :yes:

The rear fuse panel...the amperage for the strobes and LED's is going to be minimal, so you shouldn't have any problem at all using the main B+ at the rear fuse block. Just make sure that each of the circuits is appropriately fused (separate for the LED and the Strobe). You may even want to consider a small add on fuse panel like the marine stores sell that can accommodate 4 circuits or so :undecided
 

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2008 chevy
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the reason you dont want to tap into that power supply is that is already fused up front at the battery for a specific amperage, and if you blow that fuse, most of the trucks important features are not going to function, so if anything happens and you blow that fuse, your screwed. its a lot better to run your own cable up front and fuse that line up at the battery with the proper inline fuse for your application, i actually ran a line from the front to the back, fused it up front and then put a fuse panel in the back where i tap into for all my lights/sirens, its pretty much doing the same exact thing as whats in the cars stock system, but this is for all my stuff and doesnt interfere with the stock wiring.
 

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2002 chevy trailblazer_ls
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the reason you dont want to tap into that power supply is that is already fused up front at the battery for a specific amperage, and if you blow that fuse, most of the trucks important features are not going to function, so if anything happens and you blow that fuse, your screwed. its a lot better to run your own cable up front and fuse that line up at the battery with the proper inline fuse for your application, i actually ran a line from the front to the back, fused it up front and then put a fuse panel in the back where i tap into for all my lights/sirens, its pretty much doing the same exact thing as whats in the cars stock system, but this is for all my stuff and doesnt interfere with the stock wiring.
You could fuse it an inch or two directly after the B+ lug so if a short does happen that fuse will stop anything from getting to the big fuse.
 

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right but its still adding additional load to that factory wiring which is already spec'd out to a certain amperage.
 
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