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2003 Trailblazer LT
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Hey All!
as you can tell I’m new to this site, I purchased a 2003 TB LT for my sons first car. We want to put a suspension lift on it but I can’t find much info on them? I see in a lot of forums everyone is talking about Mark MC lifts and how they are the best out there. I can’t find a web site or any way of contacting them or are they still even in business. Does anybody out there know how to get a hold of them, any help would be appreciated.
 

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2006 gmc trailblazer_ls
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177 Posts
I believe he is not selling his lifts anymore. There are tons out there. If 4wd avoid the one that basically extends the top of your strut. Those really are only good for 2wds. If you want the spacer that goes inside your strut and u need to take it apart to install. There are a few such as supreme suspension and suspensionmaxx. If your want one like im planning to install that replaces the whole strut top mount. They r rough country and bds. Or if you want just a mild lift like 1” or less you could get the bilstein 5100 and it can adjust your height. You could also combine a spacer lift with the 5100’s and have whatever you want. All the lift means nothing tho if u just want to run bigger tires. You will either need spacers like i run or correct wheels with the right offset to run anything bigger then 30.5” tires. The upper balljoint limits the tire size without hitting it no matter how tall you go. Its also not recommended to go much over 3” lift. You could do suspension lift and then body lift to get more.
 

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06 ---> you're absolutely right what you said.

I just got off the phone with my son in Virginia and he says that the 4wd's should NOT have the spacer kit installed on top of the strut. BTW: he took over one of my shops and has become a very good front end guy.

Instead, he says that a stronger coil spring - or compressing the coil spring more by moving the spring seat would be a good idea.

One could, conceivably - change the seating position of the spring in relation to the strut, although it might take some ingenious welding.

To do this work, would require using a spring compressor and removing the spring to modify the strut spring perch.

Then welding a new bracket in a higher position so that when the strut was reassembled, the spring would be under more tension - thereby raising the vehicle.

I asked about 'topping-out' if it only changes the height of the vehicle, thereby moving the original/neutral position that the strut was in, to a new - more extended position. He said: "Yup - that's what you have to do".

So ---> by making the spring - in reality - stronger or to physically produce more pressure to raise the vehicle, it will STILL keep the lower control arm from dropping any lower than it did before the change.
  • This is supposed to be good - but I'll talk about MY feelings here now....
I understand that if you put a spacer on top of the strut, it will push the lower control arm down, allowing it to sit when still much lower ---> which raisess the car. Got it!

BUT -- if we measure the travel from full extension (drop) to full compressed length, the strut is only going to go as far as it is originally designed to travel anyway.

The spacer will have moved the strut ---> but the strut itself is 2 inches lower and it thereby starts 2 inches lower than it did originally.

That the lower control arm is now starting 2 inches lower, it raises the vehicle higher.
  • THIS IS NOT GOOD FOR A 4WD because it will bind up the outer CV joint and can destroy it if the vehicle catches air or a front wheel drops into a fairly deep hole... see? ! ? !
  • SOMEHOW ---> if we could limit the total amount of travel of the lower control arm - (or of the strut when it gets to top-out) --- we could keep the overall travel inside the original design parameters and the axle would still only travel as far up-and-down as it did originally.
  • THAT should solve the hyper flexation of the axle angle and the CV would not bind up.
In the end - I now see that just putting a spacer on top of the strut - is not the right thing to do on a 4WD.
  • 2WD? Yeah - go for it!
Making the spring seem stronger by pressuring it more to raise the vehicle height - seems much better.
  1. We can either compress the spring more by changing the spring seat.... or...
  2. We can install stronger springs (yeah! ---> fat chance of finding one of them)... or ....
  3. We can add a 2 inch spacer between the end of the spring and either of the two end seats!
I'm liking adding a spacer ON the strut on either end of the spring.

Now --- here's the kicker....

We talk about a 2 inch spacer to raise the vehicle 2 inches.
This isn't true.

Because the strut sits closer to the pivots of the control arms, adding 2 inches to the strut length would likely raise the front end of the vehicle more like 5 inches. OK - 4 inches!
  • My numbers might be off a tad there - this is SOP mental calculations instinctively allowing for ratios and fulcrums and control arm pivot point-to-ball joints, minor shifts in the time:space continuum etc.
I'd think that just maybe a 3/4 inch difference at the strut would be closer to a 2 inch lift - measured out at the ball joints!

Again - my brain powered, late night cypherin' and arithmetical guesses and suppositions should not be too far off.

I remain to be corrected however --- but right now I think I'm going to bed.

I'll be home and we can talk again around 3PM - Mountain Time.



.
 

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Hello, I just lift my 2002 TB 2.5 inch front 2 inch back and put 32s with no problem a small trimming in the plastic from inside but before doing anything check if you have 2wd option and check your ring and pinion before going big if you have 3.73 wich you can find it in the glove box code GT4 then your good to go for 33s if not wich means 3.42 then your max tires can go to 31s
 

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2006 gmc trailblazer_ls
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You can go as big as u want on tires no matter your gear size. Its just going to be a terd and put more strain on components the bigger you go. I do agree so your not sacrificing to much accel 31’s r about good for 3.42’s you could get away with 32’s tho. But def agree 33’s you want to change gears. Im to running 3.42 gears with 30.5” tires and spacers stock wheels and honestly i didnt notice a huge difference from stock. But i also have the 5.3 so thats could be helping too
 

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2006 gmc trailblazer_ls
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Also remember trailblazers have a bigger wheel well then envoys so same lift on both and trailblazer would be able to fit more tire with out trimming body or plastics. But the limiting factor for tire size will always be upper ball joint. No matter how big lift you go. You need spacers or different offset wheels to move farther away from upper balljoint to run anything larger then 30.5” tires
 

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2006 gmc trailblazer_ls
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Im 99% sure ill have to look up the code on the glove box again to see what the code is for 3.42 but im pretty sure. My 06 denali has the 5.3 and 3.42’s. Almost positive. Know what code is for them on glovebox label??
 

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2006 gmc trailblazer_ls
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177 Posts
Did some looking up. Gu6 code means 3.42 so yep and i have g80 so i got the good rear. Idk i bought this and it was stock so guess you learn something new everyday.
 
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