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2004 chevy trailblazer_ls
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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hello All...

I have a 04 TB LS non-on-star non-Bose. I am currently in the middle of a totally seamless install and am stuck on how to run the final speaker wire.

I have an alpine 9886 HU hooked up to a set of Alpine type R components for the front and 6 1/2''s for the rear door.

I purchased about 80 feet of Knukonceptz 16 gauge speaker wire in addition to a set of 4 channel and 2 channel RCAs.

I am hooking up a RF T8004 4 channel in the floor cubby in the back (man that really is a tight squeeze.)

I know I have the HU hooked up correctly as I have ran it with the stocks for a couple of weeks and I correctly ran my power and my ground to my amps (am waiting to hook the RF 1500 BD up as I haven’t built a slim box for the back side panel).

Anyways, I currently have no wires showing at all for this install (nor do I want to as the amps are going to be hidden and even the sub box almost camoed- the point is to not know I have a system just a nice deck) and am stuck running my speaker wire from the back cubby along the passenger’s side of the vehicle to the back rear, front right, and drivers door.

My question is, Can I run my back left door speaker wire within inches of my 4 gauge power cable if I wrap it with say electrical tape? I know the rule is to not run parallel and cross at 45 degrees but I can’t see on how to run the back driver’s side door without taking out seats and going under the carpet (I don’t want to run ANY wires where the seats fold up and down). Any ideas, advice, and suggestions would be awesome as I am at a loss at the moment.

Pics will come when the project is completed.
 

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2004 chevy trailblazer_ls
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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
even parallel? down left side for say that 3 feet? what i mean is.. run it parallel with my power within inches then cross it at 45 when it goes up the side panel
 

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even parallel? down left side for say that 3 feet? what i mean is.. run it parallel with my power within inches then cross it at 45 when it goes up the side panel
yeah, mine meet up under the drivers rear seat and run up to the b pillar, so at least 20 inches or so

personally i think most cables nowadays have enough shielding to prevent noise
 

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2004 chevy trailblazer_ls
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I was thinking that today too as even if I ran my wire to the back of the HU and used stock wiring my 4 gauge power would run parallel to my stock speaker wire the entire length of the driver’s side and that stuff is nowhere shielded as much as even this knukonceptz 16 gauge.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
OK.. no pics yet but i did encounter something very weird. I blew both my T8004 and my T1500BD within a week of each other. I dont understand why this would happen as these amps are beefy competition grade amps. I ran my 4 gauge with a 120 anl inline fuse near the battery so that I could easily close down 1 amp and remove my distro block in the back of the truck if needed...

anyways this 120 watt line runs to a distroblock. This distroblock is fused down to 2 50 watt anl fuses running 4 gauge to each amp. the ground is attached to the frame and runs into a ground distro block.. i just dont see how these amps could blow? what did i do wrong?
 

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trying not to insult your intelligence (or anyone that his has happened to) there have been some members that have switched wires between amp & sub. and i can see why when its the end of the total install and youre kind of fried yourself. going back and double checking after poor sound is when the realizations were mad. but again these members didnt have completely blown audio components, so im just throwin it out there :ugh:

EDIT: working or not, pics are good :cool:
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thats just it... i didnt even put my knukonceptz caps in this time. i dont get it i mean it sounds like a perfect run.. i am thinking of never storing amps in my garage again for sure.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
K so how would you guys think i fix it? Just a simple fuse thing? I ran my 8004 off of 4 gauge before but it was by running 4 gauge after hitting a 0/1 guage distro block.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
lol i saw the 8004 smoke out and checked the fuze. fuze is still there and is not out. so either a powersupply or a mosfet.. dropping it off to get fixed tomorrow and should have my monoblock ready.. im thinking of picking up ... a 150 mini anl at the distroblock for the 8004 4 channel. and a 100 for the t1500BD. what should i put in the inline near my battery?
 

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lol i saw the 8004 smoke out and checked the fuze. fuze is still there and is not out. so either a powersupply or a mosfet.. dropping it off to get fixed tomorrow and should have my monoblock ready.. im thinking of picking up ... a 150 mini anl at the distroblock for the 8004 4 channel. and a 100 for the t1500BD. what should i put in the inline near my battery?
Honestly, considering the amps draw close to 240A on music, I would upgrade the cable to at least 1/0

The factory alt only puts out 145A

fwiw I replaced the factory alt with an Ohio Gen before I put my first T20001bd in
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
idk. I still need to run my front speakers (How do i do this? only have seen pictures of the rear install).

I just got a brand new JL G4500 amp instead of my 8004. (that will be off getting repaired now too). my 1500 BD is to be off to dead man's land as a transformer blew on it and they dont make them anymore and for it to be fixed is 380 bucks plus shipping.

I am now looking at a 500/1 to replace that.

what is my amp drawage now? what's the optimal to run an alpine type r 2 ohm dual voice coil? could i drop my RMS on my sub so i dont have to upgrade my alternator or upgrade my 4 gauge?
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Worked on it a bit today.. got the rear all nice and flush mounted and ran my new speaker wire to the front. Just need to figure out how to get the speaker wire through the front door and i'm totally in 4 channel business.
 
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