2007 chevy trailblazer_ls
The pics in the last thread didnt work so here are the pics.
Tell me what you think...
Tell me what you think...
It just makes the ride a little more stiff in the front, which i think is a bonus. The ride is not harsh at all. The tires are 265/70/17 BFG TA/KO all terrain. When those tires wear out and after i install the Z71 springs and shocks and a 2 in body lift i will be getting 33in BFG mud terrain KM, which is the new tread pattern for the mud tire.looks great, nice job. i was thinkin bout doin the same thing to my voy. wasnt sure how much it would take away from the ride. how big did you go with the tires?
I agree. Not just for lift but one of the main reasons I am going to be adding the springs in rear is because i haul a very heavy trailer every once in a while. Its a 6ft tall 7 yard dumping trailer. It almost leaves my truck sittin on bump stops. But thats only if i need to move things.Remember, it looks good without any load in the back. If any of you carry supplies or trailers, your truck will squat a good amount. since I carry about 200-300 lbs around at all times, I NEED the Z71 springs to reduce the squat and retain the aft clearance.
I just went on the Smaxx website and just found the part and ordered it. It wasnt hard to find at all. Took about ten mins to do everything.is the extra 1/2 inch spacer from smaxx easy to install? and how did you order it?
the truck looks great! :thumbsup:
The springs are stiffer, but if you unload one side of the rear, and all the weight is on the other side because of a lumpy trail, it will certainly compress to the bump stop. Articulation in the extended position is controlled by the shock length alone. If you put in the longer BDS shocks (optional with their kit) or install the Tahoe/Avalanche shocks that are usually sold with that takeoff kit, then you get 2" more extended length. But seriously, articulation is only useful if you're on a very lumpy trail and need both tires to have traction because either you have no G80 or it's really steep and you forgot to air down. Airing down to 16-18 PSI will give you about double the traction per tire, so increased articulation isn't a goal worth spending a lot of money to attain. My favorite instructional video about steep lumpy trails where a locker is essential is this one: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=24SwmSN0-bIOne question about the springs, do they increase articulation in the rear axle? Or are they to stiff to fully compress? Just a thought.:undecided
One essential goal of a prerunner, which is typically a 2WD truck driven at high speed over a desert race course AHEAD of the competition team (thus the name PRE-runner), is to have massive lift and articulation in the front to soak up the desert whoopsies. Can't see the purpose of prerunning in a trailvoy, unless you spend $1000 on custom coilovers and much larger shocks for the front, since the articulation is lousy and can't be improved for any reasonable amount of $$Oh and anyone ever think about building a prerunner TV. I think that would be bad.:yes:
The BDS front spacer kit replaces the top part of the OEM shock/spring mount, but its final position is essentially the same as the OEM top. It doesn't extend the resting length of the strut assembly by more than 1/4"-3/8". That's essentially the same function as the SMAXX inside-the-strut spacer. (1.25" thick - gives you 1.75" higher ride.) The SMAXX top mount spacer (0.5" thick - gives you 0.75" higher ride) is outside the strut, and I think it would work just fine with a BDS-modified strut.Where as the BDS lift sits on top of the strut itself.
The issue here is the upper ball joint. I wouldn't want to extend the extension length any further without fixing the ball joint resting angle. When I'm lifting the front wheels off the ground, that ball joint bushing looks mighty squeezed.The SMAXX top mount spacer (0.5" thick - gives you 0.75" higher ride) is outside the strut, and I think it would work just fine with a BDS-modified strut.
The BDS spacer uses a third mounting bolt, in a pre-existing hole in the upper strut perch, which the SMAXX spacer doesn't have a matching hole for, so you'd have to drill a simple hole in the 1/2" aluminum spacer.