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2005 chevy trailblazer_ls_ext
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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
How do you remove the black protector covering the intake manifold? I just tried prying it and it sounds like something breaking. I need to remove it to get access to the intake manifold bolts.

Any information would help.

See image below for link.

 

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2005 chevy trailblazer_ls
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you need to unbolt the intake manifold to pull the valve cover.. its a complete pain in the ass good luck.
 

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2004 chevy trailblazer_lt
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That does not come off. You reach underneath and painfully remove the 10 bolts on the intake manifold. It all comes off as one piece.
 

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2003 gmc envoy_slt_xl
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Had to do this last weekend..

Before you start, I'm assuming you have oil in the spark plug well. Was the coil pack tight? I wrestled for 10 hours on this job as I was alone and didn't have all the tools.

It's not easy and it's not fun and in the end you'll be left feeling like you wasted your time.

Things you'll need
10mm wrench
10mm offset gear wrench if you've got it
10mm deep and shallow sockets
15mm for the alternator
pliers for hose clamps
5/16&3/8 fuel line disconnect tools(don't go cheap, they don't work)
Lots of extentions for 1/4" and 3/8" drive ratchets
Universal joints for above sizes
Brake clean
Anti seize compound
Torque wrench for in/lb

These are the big ones I could remember without going through a whole writeup. Besides, there's probably one on here already.

The ac line will flex enough to slide the valve cover out.

Sent from a phone that makes calls too!
 

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2004 chevy trailblazer_ls
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I really hope this thread is still open as I'm looking to perform the exact same routine next weekend...

Is it ultimately worth it? I found oil in the wells off 2 of my spark plugs when I pulled them and from what I've read it's because of a bad seal on the valve cover. There was actually oil on the threads of my plugs tho, so hopefully nothing got into the chamber...It may have just been from pulling it out and it dripped down the plug.

Either way, looking for assistance!

I believe I have all the tools, but would like some help or advice.
 

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2002 chevy trailblazer_ls
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I really hope this thread is still open as I'm looking to perform the exact same routine next weekend...

Is it ultimately worth it? I found oil in the wells off 2 of my spark plugs when I pulled them and from what I've read it's because of a bad seal on the valve cover. There was actually oil on the threads of my plugs tho, so hopefully nothing got into the chamber...It may have just been from pulling it out and it dripped down the plug.

Either way, looking for assistance!

I believe I have all the tools, but would like some help or advice.
eventually enough oil can build up and cause misfires. I wouldn't wait too long. You could periodically pull the plugs to drain the oil but could eventually pull the threads in the head from repeated service.

the hardest part is the 3 rearmost of the 10 10mm bolts for the intake manifold BUT keep calm and all will be good. they are laid out 1-2-1-2-1-2-1. Start at the rear so the intake stays put while you get the back ones

The third pic shows the PCV hose blocking access to a bolt. The top of the hose is not clamped so just slide it off. You may add some wd40 to help slip it off.
 

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Great advice and thanks a ton for the pics...I'm going back to the parts store to get the manifold gasket now. If it's going to be off, might as well replace it too right?

What's the torque spec for the bolts on the manifold and also on the valve cover? I definitely do not want to overtighten anything.

Also, is it easier to get the manifold off from the top or underneath? I don't have a lift, so I won't have a ton of room from the bottom.
 

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Ok, so I managed to complete this project...but of course, as I somewhat expected, the results are less than desirable.

I know my PCM is going through its relearn phase, so I'm trying to wait it out and see if all clears up. But, it still feels like something is wrong. I just replaced all the plugs, my throttle body is clean and I replaced the camshaft actuator solenoid and the camshaft position sensors previously. In other words, I'm not convinced the valve cover gasket was the ultimate fix.

Regardless, the most difficult part of this whole thing was getting the last bolt out and back in of the intake manifold. Everything else was relatively straight forward.

I did buy a Chilton guide to help with torque specs and some removal/installation assistance. I never thought I'd spend $25 on a book...

I also replaced the intake manifold gasket since I had it off and the Fel-Pro product details said to get it.

One of the intake bolts wasn't actually tight, or barely even had a thread in but the other 9 were ok, so I doubt that was a problem.

I don't really have much advice for others looking to do it, but it can be done. Took me maybe 10-12 hours of total labor and I have never done anything of this magnitude...and probably won't ever again.

Thanks a ton for the tools advice, the fuel line tool came in super handy, $14 well spent. I spent a few dollars at Harbor Freight and got everything I didn't have and some things I didn't need. An offset 10mm I could have done without, but as I didn't have a 10mm open wrench I got a u-joint type wrench set. I ended up taping my u-joints and adapters to give them a little more stiffness and I taped my extensions and sockets so I would quit losing them chasing that last manifold bolt down. A u-joint is pretty much a must on the back bolt.

Definitely sliding the top of the vent hose was way easier than trying to get to the clamp.

As for the A/C, it does not need to come out. There is just enough room to slide the valve cover under it. You may need a hand though.

Otherwise, thanks again all for the help. If anyone has questions, I can try to answer...if I remember I will report back after the pcm learns my vehicle again.
 

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2003 chevy trailblazer_lt_ext
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For the fuel line disconnectors, did you just get the set from HF, their brand, and clamps or rings that had the sizes listed previously in the thread? There are a few different types, most of them generic or Ford/Chrysler specific. Is it a quick connect, or something different. I'm a complete newbie to this, so your help is really appreciated!
 

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I originally bought the disconnect package for about $15, and then double guessed myself and bought the plastic quick disconnect package for about $5. Let's just say, I wasted the $5 because my fuel lines just laughed at me! I tried to get the second line off and dropped the tool under the alternator. I used the you one step bigger and eventually got it...

My big issue now is the fuel line plate. It looks like the bolt is hidden so far inside, I have to go in the backyard just to look for it! How do you get that stupid thing out of there so I can move on?
 

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2005 chevy trailblazer_lt
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I'm considering tackling this project (have the valve cover gasket coming in tomorrow) and was doing a bit of research. From what I've seen floating around, I will need to get the intake gasket and the manifold does have to come off (though Haynes mentions nothing of the sort). Anyone in Fauquier County VA want a few beers in the next few weeks (waiting on pads and rotors to come in as well). I already have the brake tool for the rear, and even the press to do upper ball joints if anyone wants to do that as well lol
 

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2007 chevy trailblazer_ls
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last bolt of intake manifold

you are the best private mechanic in the world

please tell me how you remove the last bolt from intake manifold....I have got all the tools in the world....I did not find how reach that MF:crazy::x. I don't want to break anything...
please advise how you reach there... it will be help full if u upload a picture of tools. I mean what extensions you use reach their.

your usual cooperation in this regard will be highly appreciated.:)
awaiting for your kind reply


Ok, so I managed to complete this project...but of course, as I somewhat expected, the results are less than desirable.

I know my PCM is going through its relearn phase, so I'm trying to wait it out and see if all clears up. But, it still feels like something is wrong. I just replaced all the plugs, my throttle body is clean and I replaced the camshaft actuator solenoid and the camshaft position sensors previously. In other words, I'm not convinced the valve cover gasket was the ultimate fix.

Regardless, the most difficult part of this whole thing was getting the last bolt out and back in of the intake manifold. Everything else was relatively straight forward.

I did buy a Chilton guide to help with torque specs and some removal/installation assistance. I never thought I'd spend $25 on a book...

I also replaced the intake manifold gasket since I had it off and the Fel-Pro product details said to get it.

One of the intake bolts wasn't actually tight, or barely even had a thread in but the other 9 were ok, so I doubt that was a problem.

I don't really have much advice for others looking to do it, but it can be done. Took me maybe 10-12 hours of total labor and I have never done anything of this magnitude...and probably won't ever again.

Thanks a ton for the tools advice, the fuel line tool came in super handy, $14 well spent. I spent a few dollars at Harbor Freight and got everything I didn't have and some things I didn't need. An offset 10mm I could have done without, but as I didn't have a 10mm open wrench I got a u-joint type wrench set. I ended up taping my u-joints and adapters to give them a little more stiffness and I taped my extensions and sockets so I would quit losing them chasing that last manifold bolt down. A u-joint is pretty much a must on the back bolt.

Definitely sliding the top of the vent hose was way easier than trying to get to the clamp.

As for the A/C, it does not need to come out. There is just enough room to slide the valve cover under it. You may need a hand though.

Otherwise, thanks again all for the help. If anyone has questions, I can try to answer...if I remember I will report back after the pcm learns my vehicle again.
 

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2007 chevy trailblazer_ls
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Valve.cover gasket replacement for tb 2007
Successfuly completed the project on 03/04 december 2016.
it took from me 9 hours to dessembling and 5 hourse for assembling... total 14 hour working.

Good results
No more missfire(it was missfiring cause oil in cylinder) + i clean fuel rail and fuel injectors
Engine is not loosing power on idle
Rpm very much stayable.on idle
No pressure leakage.
Trying to upload pictures and videos but error on this site...dontknow why

Only last bolt (with firewall) of intake manifold took extra time...other all things came out on required time.

I suggest before u start this project go dirrectly to that last intake manifold bolt if that loosen then goahead for ur rest of the project.

Any question is welcome.
 

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2003 gmc envoy_sle_xl
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Valve.cover gasket replacement for tb 2007
Successfuly completed the project on 03/04 december 2016.
it took from me 9 hours to dessembling and 5 hourse for assembling... total 14 hour working.

Good results
No more missfire(it was missfiring cause oil in cylinder) + i clean fuel rail and fuel injectors
Engine is not loosing power on idle
Rpm very much stayable.on idle
No pressure leakage.
Trying to upload pictures and videos but error on this site...dontknow why

Only last bolt (with firewall) of intake manifold took extra time...other all things came out on required time.

I suggest before u start this project go dirrectly to that last intake manifold bolt if that loosen then goahead for ur rest of the project.

Any question is welcome.
I just did this too! Successfully! Since this has been the most recently updated (I think) post, I just wanted to add some useful links and information that I found. Everything you said about the intake manifold is accurate, that last bolt is a real doozy. I didn't complete any work with the fuel rail or injectors however. After replacing all seals, I still had a misfire. I didn't have a code reader, so I purchased one Ignition Coil and swapped it in one at a time. My issue was with #6, after this was replaced she sounded amazing. I'm not a real car guy, and this was definitely the biggest project I did. It was mostly time consuming.

Below are some links and pictures that helped me along.
http://forums.trailvoy.com/showpost.php?p=1152523&postcount=31
http://forums.trailvoy.com/showthread.php?t=153930
http://forums.trailvoy.com/showpost.php?p=808691&postcount=12
Chevrolet Trailblazer Valve Job Part 1; Teardown
 

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2004 chevy trailblazer_ls_ext
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Specs

What were the specs for torquing the valve cover down or would it be hand tight preferably? as well as everything else related to the process. :undecided
 

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2005 gmc envoy_slt
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Intake manifold torque spec/ firewall bolt removal/replace

GM manual calls for 89 inch/lbs. I found that the best way to deal with the last bolt next to the firewall involved lying atop the engine [on an old chair cushion]
so that I could reach down behind the back of the engine/manifold with my left hand to locate the bolt head, while a 10 mm socket on a universal joint was being used in my right hand to unscrew the little devil. There was more room behind the engine to locate and guide the socket onto the bolt head with my left hand than I would have guessed. Also, definitely pull both the alternator and the triangular ecu/wiring support out before trying to access the manifold bolts. The wiring support bolt at the apex of the triangle [underneath] is only accessible with the alternator removed. The A/C line will move aside if the engine lifting bracket in the front left of the engine is removed.
 

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2003 chevy trailblazer_lt
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I'm in the middle of this project. I actually had very little trouble with the bolt back by the firewall. At least taking it put. Like I said, I am in the middle of the project.

I used a 1/4" drive 10mm deep well socket, a universal joint, a 3" extension.
I put the socket on by hand, and then added the U-joint and extension after the socket was on solid.
It came off part way, and I took off the U-Joint and extension.
Then I hand turned the socket the rest of the way.
It took about 3 minutes. So far I have spent about 1.5 hours total. I need to head to the store to get the fuel line disconnect tools and the gaskets.

I'll edit this post when I am done to let you know total time.

This is my first post, so I am not going to be able to show pictures or it didn't happen.:)
 
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