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Hello all!

As the title states I just replaced the resistor module for the rear blower motor thinking that was the fix for my original problem (initially rear vents only blowing hot air even when A/C was on, then after a bit the fan stopped blowing at all). However, after replacing it the fan still didn't come on. Turns out fuse #13 under the rear seat was blown. Replaced that and the fan came on, but when I set the dial to speed 3 (from the manual knob up front, the rear console controls haven't worked for years and I haven't bothered to fix it) fuse #13 blew out again. It will run fine on 1 & 2 and cold air comes out. I noticed the module gets pretty hot and assume that's part of the problem.

I tried my best to dig around in some of the existing threads but I couldn't find anything that seemed quite like this one. Although I did see one post say something in passing about the module needing to be against the back panel it screws into pretty well in order to not overheat. It was a pain to get too and maybe I quite too soon and I didn't screw it in enough, so I'm going to go try that now.

Any other tips for this?
 

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Hello all!

As the title states I just replaced the resistor module for the rear blower motor thinking that was the fix for my original problem (initially rear vents only blowing hot air even when A/C was on, then after a bit the fan stopped blowing at all). However, after replacing it the fan still didn't come on. Turns out fuse #13 under the rear seat was blown. Replaced that and the fan came on, but when I set the dial to speed 3 (from the manual knob up front, the rear console controls haven't worked for years and I haven't bothered to fix it) fuse #13 blew out again. It will run fine on 1 & 2 and cold air comes out. I noticed the module gets pretty hot and assume that's part of the problem.

I tried my best to dig around in some of the existing threads but I couldn't find anything that seemed quite like this one. Although I did see one post say something in passing about the module needing to be against the back panel it screws into pretty well in order to not overheat. It was a pain to get too and maybe I quite too soon and I didn't screw it in enough, so I'm going to go try that now.

Any other tips for this?

MY FIRST POST ON HERE HOPE I CAN GET THIS TO GO THROUGH,HA. I m having almost the exact same issue. I have replaced the rear a/c resistor and it didn't help, found out after the blower motor was shot so I replaced it. Nothing changed. Later I read a post that a bad blower motor would burn the rear resistor up(a year later) so I figured I would get another resistor for the new blower motor and still nothing. The fan comes on only when it's set to rear controls, about 15 seconds later it shuts off. I go check the resistor and it's smoking hot. I am boggled. I don't understand why the resistor would have to be in place to test it. It's surely in the most aggravating place known to man. Any help? Did you ever get the resistor screwed in place? Results? Appreciate all y'all!
 

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'05 Chevy TB EXT
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How do you know that the "module" gets hot?

Surely you're NOT letting it run while you hold it in your hand -- say it ain't so!

It MUST be in the airstream any time it is in reduced speed mode or it will fry it's little brains out and then you get to buy another one.
 

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Lol, na not holding it I don't have it installed,mainly because I think the old one is melted or seized to the mount. I can't get it off.i got the screws out of it and pulled like the devil to get it loose to no avail. Gotta be melted or something . I go back there after it shuts off and touch it. It's too hot. So it does get airflow on the backside of the blower.. it only runs for maybe 15secs and stops. Figured it would run a little longer even if it's not in it's correct mounting spot.
 

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'05 Chevy TB EXT
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5,156 Posts
There is a gasket-like, spongey rubber material that seals the flanged area where the "module" is against the air plenum of the blower housing.

If that melted ... uhmmmmm .... I bet there's something else going on.

I once had a resistor pack that would not come out in a Lincoln, I think .... might've been a Pinto though ... same-o, same-o.

The 12 y/o passenger had spilled a whole 32 ounce strawberry milkshake down through the defrost duct and that sugary stuff got cooked and I had to use water and 409 as a release agent to get it out.

Sidebar -- silly story time: I once had a haunted Ford F-100 that had a massive short in the electrical system under the dash ... just once-in-a-while ....... somewhere ........................

It never happened to the vehicle while I had it under my roof nor when I drove it to various "diagnostic" jaunts to lunches, the liquor store, shopping or on a parts run.

Every time I gave it back to the owner -- sure enuff --- it's come back on a hook and the battery'd be dead and obviously .... there had been a smoking short under the dash --- somewhere.

No melted wires.
No blown fuses.
No flame trails.
No smoke.
Nuttin.

This time I decided to drive the customer's travels from his work (in Downey, about 40 miles away) to his home in Garden Grove --- 40 miles from my shop in the other direction.

As I pulled into his driveway -- wham! Fireballs!

I immediately spotted from whence the nuclear destruction was happening, pulled the battery cable and had it towed to my shop for the 5th or maybe the 7th time.

So --- what'd I find?

A Silver Dollar had slipped through the driver's side defrost duct and dropped into a void behind the fuse panel and it took "just the right angle" of his driveway and a diagonal thrust to flip that coin into the battery power supply wires behind the fuse panel.

That's why it never blew a fuse -- this was before the power got to the fuses ... so the ONLY thing inline to the battery was the battery itself.

... and any 'seeable' damage was behind the fuse panel --- not a typical place to look for electrical problems.

This was in the days before fusable links. I loved it!

Another notch on my headboard.

The moral? -----> Silly things can happen.
 
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