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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello, I bought my 08 envoy two years ago. When I bought it the rear defrost clip that’s is suppose to be attached the rear window was hanging from the wire. Didn’t think much of it, soldered it back to the window and it has been working fine for a while. Just noticed it fell off again after all that time, went to do it again and I messed up by scraping it with a razor blade and now I cannot get it to solder back on. Here’s a pic of what I’m talking about..
Automotive lighting Branch Flash photography Tints and shades Midnight

My question is did I scrape too much to re solder the clip on? Is this something that can be fixed? I tried to solder it many times with no success. What would you to fix it? Winter is coming quick in nh any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you,
Chris
 

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Can you get any voltage off the immediate area surrounding the boo-boo?

It may be a ground point or it may not - and you've gotta find the B+ (12v) part of the circuit from the relay.

Either the unhooked wire is 12v supply or the other side of the grid is. I need to know.

You may be looking for an unobtanium part here - perhaps.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
So I tried probing the hanging wire with my multimeter and the rear defrost on, I got no voltage. I have not yet checked the other side, also have not checked the immediate area since I did not know about it. I will check the area tomorrow along with the side that is still intact. It is the drivers side that fell off if it tells you anything. I will have more information tomorrow.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
okay so i don't know what i'm doing, but here's what I've got.. i probed the connected wire with my positive probe and connected the ground to the window where the other clip should have been with the car running and rear defrost on i had about 11 volts at first then voltage would jump from 4v -11v. checked voltage from wire to wire with the same results, assuming the circuit is okay. then checked the hanging wire with the positive probe and grounded my meter to the scratched surface of the window where the clip should be and had no voltage. should i check for continuity here? to me it sounds like the connected wire is the b+(12v) part of the circuit, and the hanging wire side(drivers side) is the ground of the circuit.. am i on the right track ? made me happy that the scratched part was a decent ground for the circuit, but still not working obviously the ground is not connected.
 

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2004 chevy trailblazer_ls_ext
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I went through this with the wife's '06 TB: soldered it back on, worked OK for a winter, then the solder joint failed. Not enough left on the window to re-solder it to. What I did was buy some 1/4" double sided copper tape: 0.25" x 33 feet Copper Foil Tape Conductive EMI Shielding; US Stock | eBay (This particular seller seems to be out of stock, but others should have it).
I cleaned the area on the window with 91% isopropyl alcohol, then sanded off as much of the old solder from the clip as I could, then cleaned it with alcohol as well. I used several strips of the tap, about 1" long, and made a nice spot for the clip to sit. Remember, this is double sided tap so you have to remove the plastic from the top of the tape. Then I placed the clip on the tape pad and pressed it firmly. I drizzled a bit of thin super glue along the top edge of the clip just for good measure. After that I used some more 1" strips of the tape and went across the clip, "encasing" it between layers of tape.
I checked for continuity in several places along the grid, and it passed all the tests. It hasn't been cold enough here to confirm that the grid actually functions as it should, but I'm pretty sure that it will. The long term durability of the tape in this application is unknown, but I guess I'll find out!
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
That is perfect i didn’t think they made such thing! I will go shopping for it now thank you ! I hope it works as well as yours did. 🍻

If I fail for continuity across the grid would the tape work to connect the grid and complete the circuit? or would that be a solder job. I have not checked for continuity yet but for damn sure will be.👍
 

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Yeah, the tape should work. Just use a thin sliver of it. They do make repair kits for the grid itself consisting of a mask and a liquid you apply to the grid, but the tape should work.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
ill be honest, i'm not sure what kind of solder i am using. it was my fathers and he has had it since the 80s. i believe he said there is flux embedded into the solder.. not sure i use it on all my automotive electrical repairs without applying flux. also after putting the tape on the glass is it wise to solder the clip right to the tape just to be sure it stays i really want it to fixed for the last time.
 

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Hopefully you're not using acid core solder. It looks like flux core but it will destroy an electrical connection because the acid keeps on doing it's acid-thing.

When you use rosin core .... commonly known as flux ... it smells sweet to me whereas acid core kinda makes my eyes water.

Silver solder is a whole 'nuther brother from a different mother and it requires heavy heat flooding ... as in silfossing a pipe fitting.

Silver solder tends to come in stick form, but there are solders that can have a small percentage of silver in them to assist adhesion at flowing temperatures.

Modern non-toxic solder alloys are nowhere near as good as real "real lead - kill ya dead - slowly" solders.

Silfos must never be used in potable water systems. (Today's Happy Fact)
 

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Kester 44 Series solder with a diameter of 1.57 mm is the best solder for the job. Since it is very thin, it melts rapidly thus minimizing the chances of heat damage to the foil that is adhered to the glass.
 
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
So I finally received my copper foil tape today, it was suppose to be double sided but it wasn’t.. anyways this is how it went. I cut 5 strips of the tape and laid them on the bench, soldered the clip to the strips I used a healthy amount of solder and made sure it was one unit . stuck it to the window after checking for continuity across the grid which that was fine except for the lowest line. Now after the clip was mounted to the window I cut another 5 strips of tape with a little bit of gorilla glue on the sticky side and put those across the other way as flyboy suggested, made sure the glue made contact with everything just to be sure checked for voltage across the grid and I’m gonna call it done.. we’ll see once the cold comes in if it actually works.. this is what it lookslike, it’s ugly but it should work. hope this thread can help out someone else, thanks everyone for you’re assistance 🍻
Wood Twig Rectangle Tints and shades Road surface
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
i definitely need to paint it. im still not sure if it is working correctly since this morning it was about 25 here with frost covering the car of coarse i tried the rear defrost. it took three cycles to clear the rear window but by that time the whole car was warm and it finally melted. normally youll see the grid warm up and its clearly working did not notice that at all... i have voltage, continuity from my repair across the grid, but when i checked continuity from tab to tab i did not have any.. makes me think there is not a good contact on the tab that stayed on the window, any suggestions? i totally thought i fixed it o_O
 
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