I recently had a vibration problem in my 03 LS that didn't go away after I replaced u-joints, balanced the tires, and checked the front wheel uni-bearing hubs (which were previously replaced). I also noticed a squeak and at times a rumble that seemed to be coming from the general direction of the rear axle -- especially easy to hear while driving next to a wall with the windows open.
All this led me to investigate the rear axle bearings for wear. Note that I have trailered heavily with my TB, often pulling as much as 8000 pounds when transporting my off-road truck. That sort of use -- with a vehicle sometimes on the bump stops with the load -- is conducive to rear axle bearing wear.
I discovered that the bearings on both sides of the rear axle were worn. Clues to the wear -- apart from the symptoms listed above -- are burnt spots (brown color) on the areas where the bearings ride on the axle shafts. I'll have pictures below showing what I looked for upon dissasembly.
I also decided to replace the rear brakes, as they have to be removed to pull the axle shafts anyway and they were almost due for replacement. I matched the rear brakes to the front brake setup that I recently installed, making the braking system on my TB better than factory. I used NAPA ultra-premium rotors (I am not a fan of drilled and slotted rotors for DAILY STREET use) with NAPA's Adaptive One pads that feature a different pad material on the inner and outer pads. They stop VERY nicely.
As I started the project, I also wanted to find out why I was having problems lowering my spare tire (like that is a new problem with the TrailVoy family...) and discovered that the cable was sticking out of the winch. I removed the entire assembly for repairs outside the vehicle. Other threads document this problem well, but if I can repair my own winch, i'll document and post that as well.
On to the repair:
Here is the location of the spare tire winch tool for lowering the tire. Use a flashlight to find the square peg deep in the hole -- and the jack handle fits over the square peg to lower the winch.
Here is what I found with the spare tire winch. Obviously the tube that leads to the actual spot where the tire hangs from the frame has rusted enough to halt the passage of the cable, and once it twists up like this, it will never work again.
The winch is held up with 3 bolts -- one directly over the spare tire (you can reach it while the tire is still up in position from the passenger side of the vehicle) -- the other two are above the frame rail on the passenger side, and again, can be reached by looking up from underneath. Remove all 3 bolts and lower the entire winch assembly.
Time to start removing the housing cover from the differential. This is a simple task, requiring a 13mm socket (or wrench) and I used an extension to help getting at the bolts near the anti-sway bar.
It helps to remove MOST of the bolts, keeping one or two near the top in place so that you can gently pry away the cover making oil removal easier and less messy. There is also a drain plug on the bottom of most TB differential housings, but I decided that since the cover had to come off anyway, why mess with the drain plug -- most vehicles don't have that plug and if it remains in place, factory sealed, it won't start leaking down the road. (I've done this a few times... :yes: )
Here is what you find once the cover is removed. This is the differential carrier, and in this picture you can see the large ring gear on the left, the smaller spider gears inside the carrier housing in the center, the center pin that holds the spider gears in place, and also (looking inside deeper) the pinion gear. This is a standard carrier (not a locker or limited slip). If it were a locking rear carrier, it would have a more square shape, as it would house friction clutches and it would also have an additional mechanism (govenor) that engages the clutch disks when a wheel spins. No parts "fly out" at this stage of the disasembly, so no fear in pulling the rear cover.
EVERY ring gear (no matter who makes it) will have a set of numbers stamped on it to identify the gear ratio. This is especially helpful if gears have been swapped and/or there is no identifying tag (salvage yard find, etc.) to check. The numbers on the ring gear are the ONLY positive means of idenfification of the ring and pinion.
The wrench in this picture is placed on the cross pin retaining screw. The screw needs to be backed out enough so that the cross pin can slide out of its bore.
A couple of notes here: (1) The screw is 8mm. (2) It doesn't have to come all the way out -- just enough to slide out the cross pin. (3)The factory recommends replacement of this screw -- in the couple hundred rear axles I've built, I've never replaced one unless it was broken -- and that is rare. (4) Angle the carrier to a place where the cross pin will just slide out of the bottom hole -- pay attention to the pin as it slides out so that you will be familiar with how it returns when the job is finished.
Cross pin sliding out, cross pin retaining screw partially removed. You want to take care here to NOT disturb the alignment of the spider gears (side gears). The ones going up and down are held in place by the cross pin. The ones on each side are held in place by the axle shafts. IF you simply pull the cross pin, and slide out the axle shafts, everything will slide right back into place when you are finished. IF you make the mistake of rotating ANYTHING during this process, you will have to re-install the spider gears, as they will twist right out of the carrier.
Don't fear if this happens, it is not the end of the world. Each spider gear on the cross pin also has a "shell" (sort of a bearing surface that is a formed washer) behind it that goes with the gear. Make sure they are in place with the gears -- they "stick" with the oil that is on them. To re-insert spider gears, insert the top gear about half a tooth, spin the axle shaft, which "rotates" the gear into place almost opposite the open "window" in the carrier (the place where you are working), then insert the opposite spider gear and rotate both gears at once until they line up again with the bore holes for the cross pin. This may take a try or two if you have never done it -- sort of a puzzle where all the pieces have to go together at the same time.
(see next post)
All this led me to investigate the rear axle bearings for wear. Note that I have trailered heavily with my TB, often pulling as much as 8000 pounds when transporting my off-road truck. That sort of use -- with a vehicle sometimes on the bump stops with the load -- is conducive to rear axle bearing wear.
I discovered that the bearings on both sides of the rear axle were worn. Clues to the wear -- apart from the symptoms listed above -- are burnt spots (brown color) on the areas where the bearings ride on the axle shafts. I'll have pictures below showing what I looked for upon dissasembly.
I also decided to replace the rear brakes, as they have to be removed to pull the axle shafts anyway and they were almost due for replacement. I matched the rear brakes to the front brake setup that I recently installed, making the braking system on my TB better than factory. I used NAPA ultra-premium rotors (I am not a fan of drilled and slotted rotors for DAILY STREET use) with NAPA's Adaptive One pads that feature a different pad material on the inner and outer pads. They stop VERY nicely.
As I started the project, I also wanted to find out why I was having problems lowering my spare tire (like that is a new problem with the TrailVoy family...) and discovered that the cable was sticking out of the winch. I removed the entire assembly for repairs outside the vehicle. Other threads document this problem well, but if I can repair my own winch, i'll document and post that as well.
On to the repair:
Here is the location of the spare tire winch tool for lowering the tire. Use a flashlight to find the square peg deep in the hole -- and the jack handle fits over the square peg to lower the winch.
Here is what I found with the spare tire winch. Obviously the tube that leads to the actual spot where the tire hangs from the frame has rusted enough to halt the passage of the cable, and once it twists up like this, it will never work again.
The winch is held up with 3 bolts -- one directly over the spare tire (you can reach it while the tire is still up in position from the passenger side of the vehicle) -- the other two are above the frame rail on the passenger side, and again, can be reached by looking up from underneath. Remove all 3 bolts and lower the entire winch assembly.
Time to start removing the housing cover from the differential. This is a simple task, requiring a 13mm socket (or wrench) and I used an extension to help getting at the bolts near the anti-sway bar.
It helps to remove MOST of the bolts, keeping one or two near the top in place so that you can gently pry away the cover making oil removal easier and less messy. There is also a drain plug on the bottom of most TB differential housings, but I decided that since the cover had to come off anyway, why mess with the drain plug -- most vehicles don't have that plug and if it remains in place, factory sealed, it won't start leaking down the road. (I've done this a few times... :yes: )
Here is what you find once the cover is removed. This is the differential carrier, and in this picture you can see the large ring gear on the left, the smaller spider gears inside the carrier housing in the center, the center pin that holds the spider gears in place, and also (looking inside deeper) the pinion gear. This is a standard carrier (not a locker or limited slip). If it were a locking rear carrier, it would have a more square shape, as it would house friction clutches and it would also have an additional mechanism (govenor) that engages the clutch disks when a wheel spins. No parts "fly out" at this stage of the disasembly, so no fear in pulling the rear cover.
EVERY ring gear (no matter who makes it) will have a set of numbers stamped on it to identify the gear ratio. This is especially helpful if gears have been swapped and/or there is no identifying tag (salvage yard find, etc.) to check. The numbers on the ring gear are the ONLY positive means of idenfification of the ring and pinion.
The wrench in this picture is placed on the cross pin retaining screw. The screw needs to be backed out enough so that the cross pin can slide out of its bore.
A couple of notes here: (1) The screw is 8mm. (2) It doesn't have to come all the way out -- just enough to slide out the cross pin. (3)The factory recommends replacement of this screw -- in the couple hundred rear axles I've built, I've never replaced one unless it was broken -- and that is rare. (4) Angle the carrier to a place where the cross pin will just slide out of the bottom hole -- pay attention to the pin as it slides out so that you will be familiar with how it returns when the job is finished.
Cross pin sliding out, cross pin retaining screw partially removed. You want to take care here to NOT disturb the alignment of the spider gears (side gears). The ones going up and down are held in place by the cross pin. The ones on each side are held in place by the axle shafts. IF you simply pull the cross pin, and slide out the axle shafts, everything will slide right back into place when you are finished. IF you make the mistake of rotating ANYTHING during this process, you will have to re-install the spider gears, as they will twist right out of the carrier.
Don't fear if this happens, it is not the end of the world. Each spider gear on the cross pin also has a "shell" (sort of a bearing surface that is a formed washer) behind it that goes with the gear. Make sure they are in place with the gears -- they "stick" with the oil that is on them. To re-insert spider gears, insert the top gear about half a tooth, spin the axle shaft, which "rotates" the gear into place almost opposite the open "window" in the carrier (the place where you are working), then insert the opposite spider gear and rotate both gears at once until they line up again with the bore holes for the cross pin. This may take a try or two if you have never done it -- sort of a puzzle where all the pieces have to go together at the same time.
(see next post)