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Radio wiring colors
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Don’t cut anything yet. I had the same problem. What you have to do is go get a harness that has cpu stuff on it. Because trailblazers made there radios with cpu components in it that help your car function right. So you have to go buy this cpu thing to plug into that factory harness you have in the picture . And then you wire your cpu that plugged into that into your factory harness to your radio harness that came with the radio. I sodered the wires but you can crimp or just tape it. That’s up to you. The thing I bout was about 100 bucks at my nearest Best Buy and my radio has been working for the last 6 months I’ve had it in. And if there are 3 black wires put them all together. And make sure you color match them right.
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so this one right here is the exact one I have. When I said function I lied a bit. I just figured out what this thing does. It is mostly for the onstar system in you car so that keeps working. It also says something about the steering wheel control. I have no idea on how that effects the steering on your car. You have the same year trailblazer as me but I am not sure if you have onstar or not. I don’t really know the effects if you were to just splice into it. Your car will still obviously drive but I don’t know how it’s going to effect the stereo system you have in your car. I am also not very sure if you can buy one without the onstar system. That’s if you don’t really care about onstar. I personally don’t. I just listened to the best but guy that helped me out. He spealized in the audio section so I trust him. I also didn’t want to mess with the factory harness in case I ever wanted to go back to the old radio as well. If I were you I would just stay on the safe side and get it maybe. I have seen these things cheaper. You don’t have to get this specific one but it is the one that works for me. Also if you decide to do this and get this thing. I had a problem where I had all the wires and everything right but there is a ton of harnesses and it can get confusing. I put one of the harnesses in the wrong spot. I couldn’t figure it out for a few days. I looked at the directions and it said all the harnesses were right. Everything was matching according to the picture. But this one harness could be plugged into multiple spots. I plugged it into the amplified instead of non-amplified since I still had the factory speakers. So just be careful if you do decide to get it. Make sure you read the directions on how to install it.
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I think that the steering wheel control is if you have a fancier trailblazer with the radio controls on your steering wheel. I am not 100% sure about that. But that would make the most sense.
Try Crutchfields
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20 Posts
The solid orange wire from the TB is your 12V constant. You can hook both the red and yellow to it. You have to remember to turn off the radio, since it is a constant ON. Other constant on 12v is the cigarette lighter. I had put a tap and wire with a plug terminal on that and I plugged my accessory wire ( red) into that and my clock was constantly visible when the unit was off. Otherwise you have to either go into the ignition wiring ( I don’t advise, leave that to experts)
I used google search engine, I typed: “ radio harness for 04 Trailblazer”and got quite a few results. I got that expensive result too but I don’t have Onstar.
I got a harness through Amazon for $11.99. The blue box is for the door dinger, mainly. I don’t have a “ Your door is open” dinger for when I open my door but I consider that a blessing. Hard to be stealthy with that thing.
Your black wire ( ground) is on the top right of your harness. That one probably won’t be enough. It was enough for my low wattage Head unit. I replaced the unit with a Kenwood and it has some high wattage going through it to my Bass speakers/tweeters/ treble tweeters/crossovers and Amp/Subwoofer. The Kenwood wouldn’t come on without the ground to the chassis. The ground wire coming off my Kenwood, and the one off the harness, that is attached to the vehicle black wire, I soldiered to a thicker (22) wire. I shrink covered the connection. I shave a solid ring terminal shrink covered on the other end, screwed down to a unpainted metal part above the glove box, that connects to the car chassis. Make sure your head unit has a fuse plugged into the back of it, if not, get a inline fuse holder for 12v. Solider it to the solid orange coming off the TB, if you don’t get a harness. If you Do get a harness, solider between the harness and radio. I have changed my head unit twice. The last one worked ok with the factory speakers but was too weak for my Kicker speakers and my subwoofer Amp.( amp/subwoofer power wire has an inline fuse, close to the car battery. I didn’t run it off the inCab fuse box, I have my reasons) So I have done this twice in 6 months, adding and changing things and learning a lot about my BABY!. Plus I have changed the door speakers. You CAN get them off the factory adapters, have to use a soldiering iron to heat up the metal or heat gun to loosen the glue! Then pry off with a screwdriver. The funky adapter that they sell is.... doesn’t give a solid base for my bass speakers to pump on!!
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