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2005 chevy trailblazer_ls
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Feedback...anybody... :worried:
The bright filament has a rating of 400 - 500 lumens, while the dim filament only has 25 - 38 lumens. The reverse lights use the bright filament. 25 - 38 lumens is very insignificant. I doubt that the gain of 25 - 38 lumens would be worth the effort to modify the terminal. Note that you would have to make two new contacts for the reverse terminal. I wouldn't do it. Just my :m2:.
 

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2007 chevy trailblazer_ls
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9 Posts
The bright filament has a rating of 400 - 500 lumens, while the dim filament only has 25 - 38 lumens. The reverse lights use the bright filament. 25 - 38 lumens is very insignificant. I doubt that the gain of 25 - 38 lumens would be worth the effort to modify the terminal. Note that you would have to make two new contacts for the reverse terminal. I wouldn't do it. Just my :m2:.
That's why I love this site - people on here know what they're talking about.

After your explanation, I know understand a little more myself, and I agree, it wouldn't be worth the time and effort for that miniscule amount of brightness.

Thanks for your :m2: EwingJK - much appreciated.
 

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2006 chevy trailblazer_lt
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137 Posts
Ok I'v been noticing a little problem I have now that I have dual brake, turn and running lights. I followed all the instructions above and they have been working great, but lately I have noticed when ever I release my brake I hear a loud crackle coming through my speaker. I thought it was a blown speaker but before I invested in new ones I did a more in depth investigation. By unplugging my relays in the tail light the crackle goes away.
The weird part is it only does this crackle when I'm listening to a CD or XM, NOT on FM. This made me remember that I have a GM12-AUXv2 installed connecting to my XM connector for my ipod.
I think this is the cause to my problem. Somehow something is back feeding through the ground I think and hitting this unit causing the crackle. I have the unit grounded under the dash and power connected to the cigarette lighter.
How can I fix this?
I was thinking about putting a diode on both (left and right) of my grounds off the relays.
I'm just not a 100% you can actually use a diode on a ground but I don't see why not...:undecided
Any help??
 

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2008 chevy
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68 Posts
i would put the diode across the coils of the relays (in backwards - neg side of diode to + side of relay coil and the + side of the diode to the neg/ground side of coil) this will absorb the current/energy the coil makes as you let off the brake....

when you press the brakes..... the diode does nothing (it is in backwards)

when you release the brakes.... the reverse current from the coil will make the diode work and absorb that energy..... and will not get back to the BCM

hope this helps..... Aloha


Ok I'v been noticing a little problem I have now that I have dual brake, turn and running lights. I followed all the instructions above and they have been working great, but lately I have noticed when ever I release my brake I hear a loud crackle coming through my speaker. I thought it was a blown speaker but before I invested in new ones I did a more in depth investigation. By unplugging my relays in the tail light the crackle goes away.
The weird part is it only does this crackle when I'm listening to a CD or XM, NOT on FM. This made me remember that I have a GM12-AUXv2 installed connecting to my XM connector for my ipod.
I think this is the cause to my problem. Somehow something is back feeding through the ground I think and hitting this unit causing the crackle. I have the unit grounded under the dash and power connected to the cigarette lighter.
How can I fix this?
I was thinking about putting a diode on both (left and right) of my grounds off the relays.
I'm just not a 100% you can actually use a diode on a ground but I don't see why not...:undecided
Any help??
 

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2003 chevy trailblazer_lt_ext
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45 Posts
hello everybody, i have a question; the 50 w/6 ohm resistor is connected before the relays? to the turn wire coming from the car, or after the relays?. I'm doing the quad brakes and turns, regular bulbs.
 

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2008 chevy
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68 Posts
with regular bulbs you do not need resistors


i was just thinking about it..... i am using LED's so i need the resistor in circuit to make mine work.....

if your using all regular bulbs the flaser module will "see" three bulbs (not the normal two) when it tries to blink..... i wonder what that does to it.... it may blink slower or not at all.... if that is the case remove one bulb and see if that corrects the blinking issue.... let us know.... thanks
 

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2003 chevy trailblazer_lt_ext
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thanks for the response, i think in post 87 you said that you use led lights and that is why you don't use the resistors. The turn bulb doesn't lit at all the rapid flashing is at the front turns and the arrow at the cluster, is to dark and cold now but tomorrow y will remove the other bulb like you said
 

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2003 chevy trailblazer_lt_ext
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I forget to mention that the rapid flashing occurs only when i have the brake pedal pressed and use the turn lights, left or right, otherwise all is working fine, quad brakes and turns
 

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2006 chevy trailblazer_lt
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137 Posts
i would put the diode across the coils of the relays (in backwards - neg side of diode to + side of relay coil and the + side of the diode to the neg/ground side of coil) this will absorb the current/energy the coil makes as you let off the brake....

when you press the brakes..... the diode does nothing (it is in backwards)

when you release the brakes.... the reverse current from the coil will make the diode work and absorb that energy..... and will not get back to the BCM

hope this helps..... Aloha
I've been putting this off for a while because I thought I needed a few diodes, but now I reread this I'm not sure I do. Do I?

After carefully reading this you make it sound like the diodes need to be reversed? the 2 shown in post 73

Could you by chance circle where the diodes need to go using your diagram in post 74 in extra are needed?
 

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2008 chevy
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68 Posts
in diag #74 the diodes needed for the stereo noise goes on terminals 85 & 86

that stereo adapter does pickup a lot of noise - i have the same brand and i hear the altenator at times - im looking into a different brand to get rid of the noise......
 

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2006 chevy trailblazer_ls
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198 Posts
do you have to actually cut the brake and turn wires and solder in the new leads that go to the relays and use the other end of the cut section to solder the leads from the relays to the tail connector? i know how to do eveything else i was just wondering this part, and what AWG wire should i use?
 

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2008 chevy
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yes - i had to cut mine just before the connector - i used 18 gauge wire - i think the stock wire is a little thinner (it looks that way to me - kinda the same size)
 

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2006 chevy trailblazer_ls
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And also you mentioned you had LEDs, did you have to buy CK types for the middle since you added the new ground to the middle bulb, or did you just wire your tail assembly different?
 

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2008 chevy
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68 Posts
i did the two mods in the beginning of this post

quad parking lights
quad brake/turn lights

the LED's i used are 3157
 

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2006 chevy trailblazer_ls
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23 Posts
Quad Parking

I just finished the Quad Parking tonight. I just bought my TB last week and after getting the donor board (which was broke But had the pieces I needed) I went to take the boards out of the truck and found out all the prongs on the pass. side were rusted off. Just the rust was making the connection. Well Auto zone was the only place open at 10:30pm so I ran there. Brought home the part and find out it is totally different. Instead of the metal strips there were wires and the sockets were molded into the top. It wasnt pretty but I got it to work.
 

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2006 chevy trailblazer_ls
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6 Posts
My experience with the quad tail lights

Initially I had a bad wire AND a bad connector. Opposite sides of course! As I diagnosed,I thought it was crazy that the center turn light was used for only that. No reason since the bulb is dual filament and the socket "could be".
So I took the bad one apart and it was the flat wired printed circuit style. I figured out what needed to be done inside to make the center bulb serve as a tail light and off to the parts store I went. When I took the new housing apart I found it was discreet wires not a printed circuit! I crushed the old dual filament sockets (carefully) to get the correct tabs out. The ones that were missing and needed to do the mod. Popped them in the new sockets and did the jumpers as shown in the thread. All the jumpers were done INSIDE the housing and there is no need to use a diode if wired properly. I did have to carefully grind the housing to allow room for the wires. The housings were super glued back together and then I used aquarium sealant to be thorough. I love the results and do not understand why they did not come this way from the factory. :bonk:, :woohoo:
 
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