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2002 chevy trailblazer_ls
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm trying to figure out how to fix my front passenger window which doesn't work. There's no clicking when I try to use the drivers' door controls. All the other windows work and the front passenger door lock and motorized mirrors work as well. I'm thinking the power window motor in that door doesn't work. I read the how-to on disassembling the door panel, so I can do that. I have read the problem can be a cable being crimped somewhere. Is there a way to figure out what the problem is without taking off the door panel?

Thanks
 

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2007 chevy trailblazer_lt
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678 Posts
90% of the time, its a window switch or broken wire in the door boot.
P/S window does not work from drivers or passenger switch?
The door panel comes off pretty easy, but the place to start is at the P/S window switch. Using a meter or test light, check that there is power to the switch, and then that the switch is actually working. A wiring diagram would be helpfull, but im not on my work computer.
If you have the door panel off, you can just trace the wires down to the window motor and test them there. Usually a 2 wire harness. One is switched power, one is ground. If the switched power is getting to the motor, then you need a motor. If not, then you need to trace back.
 

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2004 gmc
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Trailvoys are not like other older vehicles with a direct connection between the switch and the motor. The switch gives a signal to the door control module. Then the module sends a serial data bus signal to the BCM (body control module) which then decides if it's a message that it's going to pass on to the destination. For instance, if the passenger window switch is pressed by a child or dog, but the driver's door window lockout button was previously pressed, the passenger's window isn't going to move. It's a safety thing.

Plus the windows are allowed to move temporarily after turning the vehicle off but before opening the door. This also takes the smarts of the BCM.

All that being said (for the benefit of the lurkers), your problem not in serial communication since that's also needed for the door locks and mirror control. The harness crimping issue is one of wires being broken after too much flexing, usually inside the rubber boot at the door hinge area. But if the power or serial data lines were broken, you would have more failures than just the window motor.

So we can post or describe the schematic if you own a meter and know how to use it, and want to poke about in the door and measure the switch and motor voltages. Is that what you wanted to go into? I only ask that because I've often launched into long-winded explanations to help people troubleshoot things, only to have them say it was way too complex and all they had was a test lamp (or less) when they needed a meter to do it properly.
 

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2002 chevy trailblazer_ls
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
meters and schematics

I have a meter I borrowed from the office. I've only used it once to test the battery.
 

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2002 chevy trailblazer_ls
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Testing the switch

Ok, I've learned how to use the meter (Got a Sperrry DM4100A), can someone walk me through the testing procedure?


Thanks
 

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2002 chevy trailblazer_ls
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
finally took off the door panel

as it turns out, no power is going to the motor. I was actually hoping it was a bad motor, since that's an easier problem to fix.
 

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2004 gmc
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Do you have 12V on the Orange wire going to the switch module? If not, you have a bad wire in the hinge area, or a blown Circuit Breaker #1 in the rear fuse block, but that would also take out the rear window as well.

If you have 12V on the switch module, and the switch doesn't work, then you have a bad module or dirty switch.
 

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2002 chevy trailblazer_ls
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks for the info Roadie. I may have to take the door panel off again, I think. Maybe I didn't check the voltage at the motor properly. I say that because I just test the voltage coming off the orange cable (crudely circled in attached picture - picture taken from driver side, I tested both sides to be sure) and it was a clear 12.85 volts. Either, like you say, the actual switch/module went bad or it's still the motor.
 

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The motor is a traditional bidirectional floating one, meaning both wires to it come from the module. Other motors like blowers or windshield wipers might have one end permanently grounded, and the other input is turned on and off to 12V. (Or one end always at 12V, the the low side gets switched.)

But in a bidirectional motor, the control module controls BOTH inputs, so it can put 12V one way for up, and reversed the other way for down. Same idea for lock/unlock solenoids.
 

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2002 chevy trailblazer_ls
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I just tried switching the driver and front passenger door modules and still no joy. I'm really starting to think it may really be the motor after all.
 

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2004 gmc envoy_sle
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399 Posts
I'm going to jump in and hijack with a simple question. Are there no specific fuses for the windows? I've looked through the owners manual and see nothing listed. I see Roadie mentioned Circuit Breaker #1 in the rear block, is that all there is? Is it the driver door control module fuse?
 

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2004 gmc
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CB#1 PLUS fuse #12 (PDM) run the passenger side doors (both front and rear, unless you have the ultra-rare TB 2-door coupe model :D).

CB#2 PLUS fuse #10 (DDM) run the driver's side doors. (mirror and power window functions)

Fuse 21 and relays 18 and 24 are needed (plus what's listed above) for the power locks to operate correctly
 

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2002 chevy trailblazer_ls
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connector prong diagram

Thanks for the info Roadie. I may have to take the door panel off again, I think. Maybe I didn't check the voltage at the motor properly. I say that because I just test the voltage coming off the orange cable (crudely circled in attached picture - picture taken from driver side, I tested both sides to be sure) and it was a clear 12.85 volts. Either, like you say, the actual switch/module went bad or it's still the motor.
Does anybody have a picture of the connectors at the door hinge to see which prongs on connector are to be supplying power?/
 

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2004 chevy trailblazer_ls_ext
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Left rear window won't work. Power only in orng switch wire

I'm having a problem with my left rear window. One moment it worked fine, then the next moment nothing. I've tested the motor (works fine), I've tested the switch (works fine), I've tested the switch wires (power only in orange wire and small brown/white wire (which I believe is for the illumination since its not listed in the schematics)). Can anyone assist me with this issue? I'd really appreciate it!
 

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2003 chevy trailblazer_lt
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Cut the wire that connects to the window motor, get abattery of a power drill and stick the wires to the battery it should be able to go up and down I believe its the blue wire and the brown wire that come out directly off the window motor if it goes up and down then your not receiving power to the window motor
 

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2002 gmc envoy_slt
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Hey Guys... Can I jump in here with a related question? No advice for previous posts. I have an '02 Envoy SLT and all buttons on driver's side have stopped working. Swapped switched panels with passenger side and Drivers works all windows and locks while plugged into Passenger door.

Passenger door panel seems dead when installed in Driver's door. I got 12 V at the main orange wire at the door panel. I pulled the wire connector apart at hinge. Looks clean, sprayed with electrical cleaner. checked for obvious cracks or breaks. Nothing.

Could I have a bad ground to this door? Where would I check for ground? I got continuity from Black wire at door panel to the door hinge/door post.

Running out of ideas to check.

Thanks ... Glenn
 

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2002 gmc envoy_slt
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[Solved] Tried another complete door on my truck with no luck. Dismantled the door, removed the body side of the wire harness and started tracing. Found a small orange wire in the exposed harness under the drivers side rocker cover. Green corrosion around one spot of wire touching the rocker panel. Wire had a chip in the insulation and was corroding in the salt from our winters here in Nova Scotia. Cut away corroded part of wire and spliced a new piece in its place... then I heard the door chime ringing and knew all was well... :):thx thanks for help and advice from the forum members. Remember to check under the rocker cover for problems... :thumbsup:
 

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2005 gmc envoy_sle
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window issues

I have a 2005 envoy SLE, one day my window just slowly stop working. but the other windows and door locks work fine from my DMM. My locks work and even the power mirror. So I started to do the following test.

1. I swapped the DMM with the passenger switch result nothing
2. I took my DMM and put it in my brothers envoy and it worked.
3. I took off the door panel and changed the window regulator and motor. nothing.
4. I took a wire and attached it directly to the battery and the motor went up and down.
5. I took a wire tester and i'm getting power to the motor at 12v.
6. I purchased another wire harness through ebay. still nothing all it does is a clicking noise.
7. I checked the wiring for any breaks or corrosion and nothing.

I'm all out of solutions. all it does is clicks.
Edit/Delete Message
 

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2004 chevy trailblazer_lt_ext
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I'm trying to figure out how to fix my front passenger window which doesn't work. There's no clicking when I try to use the drivers' door controls. All the other windows work and the front passenger door lock and motorized mirrors work as well. I'm thinking the power window motor in that door doesn't work. I read the how-to on disassembling the door panel, so I can do that. I have read the problem can be a cable being crimped somewhere. Is there a way to figure out what the problem is without taking off the door panel?

Thanks
Hello,

I am new to the site and have a very similar issue going on with my power windows.
I spilled a drink on my drivers side master control module and shorted it out. None of the window switches worked anymore, but the seat heater and window lock was still working....
Logged onto Ebay and ordered a new module, but the thing is, I am on vacation and my window is stuck down... While I'm waiting on the switch to arrive, it would be nice to be able to roll the window up and down in case I hit rain or something.

As I understand it, the Blue and Brown is the up/down and I have verified my 12Volt orange wire is working correctly...
My plan was just to jumper the orange to the blue or brown to roll it up but it did nothing... How do I manually roll the windows up using thhis method? What wires do I need to jump?

The next plan was to go orange to blue, and then ground the brown to black and vice~versa to go the other way....
Will this work pr should I jumper other wires?

Help please.

The Trailblazer is a 2004, V8, EXT LT
 
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