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2003 chevy trailblazer_lt_ext
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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
First off, I searched and carefully read through all the threads that seemed to deal with this and couldn't find my solution.

"power steering issues" http://forums.trailvoy.com/showthread.php?t=53201
"Power Steering Pressure Line" http://forums.trailvoy.com/showthread.php?t=82386
"Is this P/S leak?" http://forums.trailvoy.com/showthread.php?t=81111

I've been leaking power steering fluid heavily through the return line that is located above the brakes in the driver side wheel-well (in one of the clamps shown by item #8 in the diagram). My bro-in-law is a mechanic and he took a look at it for me. At first glance, since it was only the return line, his instinct was to cut that section out and replace it with rubber hosing (we already did this a few months ago with another section of the PS line). However, since high-pressure line that was adjacent was also severely corroded, we decided to replace that line as well to head off future problems.

I bought this PS pressure line from advanceauto yesterday to replace item #7: http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_Power-Steering-Pressure-Hose-Powercraft_20990037-P_18_

We snaked the new power steering pressure line into the engine compartment and started to install it. Had problems with the seals that are documented in the other threads and advanceauto reviews for this product and finally got the old inner seal out. If you're looking at the diagram, the inner seals are located at #18/19.

We tried putting the new powercraft hose connector into the rack, but now having problems with the bracket (just to the right of #18/19). The bracket is attached the the low pressure connector in a way that you can not take it off without destroying the low pressure connector. The hole in the OEM bracket is too small for the revised connector that has the built-in seal. The new/revised high pressure hose has a new bracket, but you can't take the OEM bracket off the OEM low pressure hose.

So we just have to replace the low pressure line (item #6), right? I can't find the line/hose that goes into the steering rack inlet, anywhere! I'm sure I can call the dealer, but besides being ridiculously overpriced, the dealer will just have the line with the OEM bracket that we already know doesn't work. We need a low-pressure line/hose from the cooler to the rack, that is compatible with the powercraft high pressure hose bracket. Looking at advanceauto's website, I can only find the high pressure hose that I already bought (item #7 in the diagram) and the low pressure hose that goes from the cooler to the pump (item #11). I need item #6 that goes from the cooler to the rack.

Sorry for the long post, I hope this is thorough enough. If we can't get this done tonight, I'm going to be out of a vehicle for at least a week, so any help is much appreciated! Thank you!
 

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I'm thinking that you might have to Dremel the old bracket (the one that holds both pipes and held by bolt #2) so you can remove the #6 outlet pipe from it. Or if you're handy with a torch, you could try to heat it and see if it slides off the bracket after it expands since it looks to be pressed in there. BTW, use a NEW #2 bolt. Mine broke off by itself and spewed all the PS fluid. Had to drop the rack to remove the broken bolt.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I'm thinking that you might have to Dremel the old bracket (the one that holds both pipes and held by bolt #2) so you can remove the #6 outlet pipe from it. Or if you're handy with a torch, you could try to heat it and see if it slides off the bracket after it expands since it looks to be pressed in there. BTW, use a NEW #2 bolt. Mine broke off by itself and spewed all the PS fluid. Had to drop the rack to remove the broken bolt.
Short of it is, we mixed the hoses up and put the hose in the wrong location, ended up blowing up the rack. $200 and a week later, replaced the rack and got all the hoses in the right location. No more leaks, but during the alignment the dealership gave me some terrific news about the control arms. I'll make a new thread about that though, but here's a teaser: I've got a $750 bill coming my way :(
 

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Ah man. That sucks on both counts. As for the A-arms, I just wish these trucks didn't have so many disposable parts on them. Not like we have a lot of disposable income!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I'm wishing I found a Tahoe with a 3rd row now. Or at least a TB EXT/Envoy XL not located in one of the snowiest cities in the country (Syracuse, NY).

Bought it in December and after this next repair will be easily over $2k in maintenance/repairs since then (and that's with a TON of free labor from my bro-in-law). At a purchase price of $4200 ith 136k miles on it, I knew it'd take some work and $$, but had I known this much, I would have reconsidered.
 

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Yep, same boat here. Bought it needing an engine and it's been a money and time pit. Tonight, I just changed a rear axle seal AGAIN, leaking badly and I'm sure I didn't damage it when I changed it the first time. I didn't even change the parking brake shoe nor the pads. Just soaked them in solvent, cleaned them with brake cleaner, sanded them a bit and slapped them back on. Fcuk it!
 

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im sorry to bring up a thread thats been long dead.

does any one have the part numbers for the hoses?
from the p/s fluid cooler to the rack is leaking, but all look piss poor.
going to do it right and replace them all.

Mike
 

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Any online retailer would have the numbers according to their suppliers. Depends on which one you go with.
 

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Can't find #6, was this a dealer item?

I also cannot find the return line from rack to cooler, can you tell me did this end up being a dealer item and did you get a part #?? crazy that I can buy the high pressure/return to pump but not the cooler to rack? Big thanks to Roadie for posing the diagram on this site, huge help.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
If it's just the return line, can you just use a rubber hose and clamp? I think only the higher pressure line NEEDS to be the metal line with proper seal.

Hopefully someone else can comment on this.
 

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I figured that the hoses to rack connection was going to be some lines-fused to the bracket sort of crap, so I went to one of these websites where the GM part was represented as ** + a number, found out that most of the parts for this were starting with "26", guessed the part number and got lucky. I found #6 at a GM dealer that hustles OEM parts on the Web (dirty boy), got a price, and then threatened my local dealer with the price. He knew the game I was playing (called waiting a week or more for the part to come via UPS) and matched the web prices within 5 or 10%. I was just wondering, since I just finally got to the part, after two 4 or 5 hour sessions lying in the driveway or crawling arond on top, how to take that frigging bolt out that holds the two lines by the bottom of the fan... it appears that the harmonic balancer puts the kibosh on any rachet activity, and the fan gums up the works, such that I layed on my back and turned that little bastard with a 10mm wrench about a 16th of a turn at a time. Epic dispair at 32 degrees on my back under the whale.
 

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I figured that the hoses to rack connection was going to be some lines-fused to the bracket sort of crap, so I went to one of these websites where the GM part was represented as ** + a number, found out that most of the parts for this were starting with "26", guessed the part number and got lucky. I found #6 at a GM dealer that hustles OEM parts on the Web (dirty boy), got a price, and then threatened my local dealer with the price. He knew the game I was playing (called waiting a week or more for the part to come via UPS) and matched the web prices within 5 or 10%. I was just wondering, since I just finally got to the part, after two 4 or 5 hour sessions lying in the driveway or crawling arond on top, how to take that frigging bolt out that holds the two lines by the bottom of the fan... it appears that the harmonic balancer puts the kibosh on any rachet activity, and the fan gums up the works, such that I layed on my back and turned that little bastard with a 10mm wrench about a 16th of a turn at a time. Epic dispair at 32 degrees on my back under the whale.
Can you share the Part number for Line #6. I need the same part to replace my power steering hose.
 

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Steering Pump Lines, Etc. 2003 TBlazer Ext LT 4.2L 4wd (Mine, anyway)

Here, take a look at this great if OVERPRICED website (Well, at least especially for #7, which I got at Advance Auto for approx. 105.00):

http://parts.nalleygmc.com/showAssembly.aspx?ukey_product=3064526&ukey_assembly=436870

006 26095038 HOSE. Steering Gear Oil Return
$134.65


007 26095037 HOSE. Hydraulic Steering Gear Pressure. Steering Gear Oil Pressure.
HOSE,P/S GR INL(W/SEALS)(06.671). Required: 01For: ST1 4.2S(LL8) (2002-2004) (2002 - 2004). For: ST1 4.2S(LL8) (2005-2009) (2005 - 2009). For: T1 4.2S... Show More $319.47


008 19148997 BRACKET. Hydraulic Steering Pump Pipe. Steering Gear/Pump Oil.
BRACKET,P/S GR INL HOSE. Required: 02For: ST1 4.2S(LL8) (2002-2004) (2002 - 2004). For: ST1 4.2S(LL8) (2005-2009) (2005 - 2009). For: T1 4.2S(LL8) (20... Show More $16.34

009 11517518 BOLT; SCREW. BOLT. A/C Evaporator. Battery Cable. Chassis/Engine Wiring Harness. Distributor. Electronic Brake Control. Emission Control System. Engine Camshaft. Engine Camshaft & Valve Rocker Cover. Engine Camshaft Thrust. Engine Clutch Pedal. Engine Coolant By-Pass. Engine Coolant Pump. Engine Coolant Thermostat. Engine Front Cover. Engine Oil Pan. Engine Oil Pump. Engine Rear Main Bearing. Engine Timing. Front Door Hinge. Fuel Injection. Fuel Tank. Fuel Tank Evaporator Control. Heater. Horn. Inflatable Restraint System. Mobile Telephone Radio. Plug Threaded. Radiator Fan Shroud. Radio Antenna. Radio Mounting. Rear Side Door Lower Hinge. Rear Window Defogger. Throttle Control Lever. Transmission Case. Transmission Servo & Accumulator. SCREW. Radiator Air. (also Knock Sensor)
$4.39

010 26086152 BRACKET. Hydraulic Steering Pump Pipe. Steering Gear/Pump Oil.
$15.57
010 26099618 BRACKET. Hydraulic Steering Pump Pipe. Steering Gear/Pump Oil.
BRACKET,P/S GR INL & OTLT PIPE CLIP(RETAINED BY CLIP). Required: 01For: T1 (2005-2009) (2005 - 2009). $14.45

011 26087520 HOSE. Steering Gear Oil Return
$80.69


By the way, this was NOT the dealer that hustles the parts for reasonable prices. That guy is in either Washington State or Arizona, can't remember which. They were a little surprised to find out I knew where they were, because apparently dealers hustling GM parts on the web for humane prices is a dealer NO-NO. I'm a master at flushing info out of the web, however.
 

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Those Nasty Rotten Steering Pump Lines

One more thing I would add, having been a backyark mechanic for over 35 years, I was still quite perplexed as to how this was supposed to be an easy replacement, and good thing I got the High Pressure hose, because I bent that up pretty well in the process of wrestling with this oily rusty mess. Just sayin', as the saying goes. All in all changeing all 3 was not something I want to do again. I certainly would not want to change #6 and then come back and change #7 a week or a month later.
 

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Steering pump hose

What you're saying is this is a pain in the ass. Is there an easy way to do this or should I leave this to the professionals.
 

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PART # and Comment

Sorry I didn't respond sooner, the GM part number for #6 is 26095038. #7 in the picture is part# 26095037 part# 11 is part# 2608752. The bolt under the fan did me in as well, I spent and hour getting it off the same way. Putting it on pi$$ed me off so bad I put a freekin plastic strap aound it until I feel like messing with it again. Had I known how bad this was going to be NO I would not do it again! Just getting the o ring out of the rack took me two hours!
 

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power steering line replacement, again!!

Just an fyi for that bolt at the center fan area, I used a couple ratchet extensions and angled it from above with a swivel at the socket end while my son was holding it steady from underneath and it worked fine. The enginerds could have put that bolt a couple inches to the right and it would be a pc of cake. I replaced the low pressure line a couple years ago and that is the one that blew out [email protected]$%. So i ordered a new pressure line and the return and they were both wrong and nobody seemed to have the return line. I said screw it and had the old pressure end put on the new hose at a hydraulic shop. I was taking out what I thought was the old orings from the rack from above and a little metal ring with rubber flap thing came [email protected]!. You can't see too well down there and maybe the orings already came out but I felt something softer thought it was the oring. Now this thing is buggered up some. Do I have to put that back in? It seems to be a check valve for when you take the fitting out, keeping the dirt out. I think the oring will seal in the main opening. Any thoughts on this? I don't ever want to see this thing again.

To get to the lines, I had to take out the fuse box, the three coils on the side of the engine, the master brake cylinder, the battery and base, and a myriad of wires. Then that sob comes out ok. Hope I can remember how to reinstall everything. These should have been all hose and then they wouldn't have rusted in the first place or use tubing that can handle a little salt spray. Fuel, steering and brake lines should be life of the vehicle things, no??? so far a mostly reliable vehicle that runs really smooth at 135k.
 

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Bolt #2

I'm thinking that you might have to Dremel the old bracket (the one that holds both pipes and held by bolt #2) so you can remove the #6 outlet pipe from it. Or if you're handy with a torch, you could try to heat it and see if it slides off the bracket after it expands since it looks to be pressed in there. BTW, use a NEW #2 bolt. Mine broke off by itself and spewed all the PS fluid. Had to drop the rack to remove the broken bolt.

I cannot get bolt # 2 off. I bought a $20 E-Torx socket set and it is still slipping. I used 7 mm. Is it reverse threaded? I do not want to break it off.
Also after I remove that can I just replace seal #18 and #19? the fluid is just pouring out that spot.

I realy appreciate any help you can give on this

P.S. Thank you JayDee for the diagram

Computer geek by day, in over my head!?!
 

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Taking Out Bolt Number Two(2) Power Steering

I assume you've jacked up the truck put it on stands and removed the driver side tire. Now with the 1/4" drive 7mm Socket and about 9-inches of 1/4" extension you can thread this past the bellows and attach to the bolt head. Get your wrench in a comfortable position and follow the lefty loosy/counterclockwise to unloosen and turn the bolt. I did mine last night (Aug 23, 2012) and it came out just fine. Thanks Jesus.

The real pain in the rump is clamp bolt number nine buried under the spray shield in the middle of the two hose clamp knuckles. And then Number 9 to the number ten bracket. And then clearing all the electrical lines to the left so I can get those dang hoses out of there.

Yes I busted one knuckle on my index finger(left hand) while trying to get those plastic expansion rivets out that were holding the spray shield in place.

I am pleased that RockAuto.Com sells hose# 7(EDELMANN Part # 92472) for $66.79 and hose#11 (EDELMANN Part # 92222) for $20.79. But for hose #6 (GM 26095038) I found I could get the device for $78.29 at http://www.gmpartsdirect.com/results.cfm?partnumber=26095038.

Though I might use a solution in which I double-flare couple insert a repaired part into the #6 line to get by on the cheap. It is the low pressure side after all.;)
 
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