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2006 chevy trailblazer_lt
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102 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Whats my problem? Takes forever to get warm in the cab, temp guage shows normal. has the auto climate doesnt matter if I use it or not still takes forever to get hot. 2006 i6 4.2 4x4 30k
 

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2005 chevy trailblazer_ls
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1,113 Posts
im not sure why this is...i dnt have the digital thermostat i turn the nob hot/cold :crazy: but fill out your user CP so that we all kno wat yur drivin :thumbsup:
 

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2004 gmc
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26,181 Posts
Low coolant level can do this to you. Otherwise the auto climate control is buggered up and not allowing enough hot air mixed with the cold. It may be a dealer thing to diagnose - the tech tool can talk to each of the control door actuators to see if they're doing their jobs.

Assume you get the same low temp out of both left and right sides?
 

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2009 chevy
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6,431 Posts
Low coolant level can do this to you.


Assume you get the same low temp out of both left and right sides?
If both sides are the same, you may have a problem with water circulation. As roadie said, check for low coolant. If the coolant level is ok, you may need to flush the heater core (this is actually a flush of the entire cooling system).
 

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2006 chevy trailblazer_lt
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102 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
i think theres an air pocket somewhere. When you accelerate the coolant temp drops a bit. It shows full coolant level and the color is fine only has 32k on it 2006 I-6 4.2L
 

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2002 chevy trailblazer_ltz
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352 Posts
mine doesnt really have any trouble getting hot... it has to be set on 90 to do it. however as soon as you drop the temp to say 85 it starts blowing almost cold air. its rather annoying.... something wrong with the mix box control thing in my case too? sorry for the :hijacked but didnt want to start a new thread for a similar issue
 

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2004 gmc
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26,181 Posts
... something wrong with the mix box control thing in my case too?
Assuming you have the digital controls, sometimes they lose their calibration about where the actuator end points are. You can unplug the control box connectors, or just disconnect the battery for 10-15 minutes. Then next time you start up, don't touch any of the temp/mode controls for 2-3 minutes. The control box initializes each actuator, runs them from end to end (CW and CCW) and checks the feedback signals. Could be your control box needs to reinitialize, or it could have a problem. Got any friends with the same controls to trade with to see if it's the box or an actuator? Much harder to replace actuators, as you can imagine.
 

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2003 chevy trailblazer_ls
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5,267 Posts
If you do have an air bubble...
have you done work recently to the cooling system?
since youre seeing the needle drop when you accelerate...
1st thing in the morning--- pop the hood- and look at the level on the reservoir bottle... it should be at the COLD LINE mark. if it is not....
buy some 50/50 dexcool fluid (available at wal mart) and fill the fluid to the COLD line.
Now drive the vehicle like normal...
once up to operating temp...
get on the highway or an empty road--- and safely--- from a rolling start (like 15 or 20 MPH) floor it... do this to get the RPM's up to about 4500-5000.
do this several times to really get the coolant moving....
then proceed with your day as normal.
the next morning- while still cold--- check the fluid level again- if there was air and it was moved along-- then the coolant level should have dropped...
refill to the cold line- and repeat the above.
This should get rid of the air bubble....
Ive done this on my I6 when I did repairs.
V8 should be the same-- unless theres a special procedure?
 
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