OK, I just completed the job in 45 minutes and I stopped many times to show my wife how to do it.
1.) DO NOT waste your time (and fluid) removing the transmission lines. They simply pop out of the plastic clips on the shroud that hold them there (slide under the front to easily do this).
2.) The AC Delco fan clutch is $227 at Rock auto which is what the st(d)ealership would install (and charges $597). The AC Delco part is a Behr part which is made for AC Delco.
3.) The stealership charges 3 hours of labor to do the job where I, a novice did it in 45 minutes. All quotes from 3 different stealerships were over $800 ($300 labor + $600 part). Shame on them charging for 3 hours verses the 1 it really takes.
I wonder if adding an electric fan wouldn't solve this problem cheaper than replacing the OEM fan. The OEM seems to be another GM engineering marvel. The kind that has put them out of business twice now and will continue to plague them until they disappear all together.
Have you ever noticed how just about every luxury car made in recent times that drives a mechanical fan, also has a pair of large fans ahead of the condenser that turn on with the AC?
Every vehicle I have ever owned that was driven by a mechanical fan had some sort of similar issue, and I always solved this by adding an electric fan set in front of the condenser, or by replacing the mechanical fan with an electric fan or set completely.
In the instances where I did add one to the front of the condenser, I could toggle the fan on and off at idle with the AC on, and watch the system pressure go up with the mech fan alone working, and go down as soon as the e-fan(s) came back on.
Some companies, like Dodge, even went so far as to add an e-fan ahead of the mech fan, behind the radiator to help out.
Add one or replace the mech fan with one altogether, and I bet your problem goes away real fast.
A/C stops when hot outside and car not driving 50+ mph
My A/C will stop running when its 85+ outside and in stop-and-go traffic. If I get it up to speed on the freeway (45+ mph), it will start working again in a few minutes. In the spring and fall when its not as hot outside, it works correctly all of the time.
I paid a mechanic to replace the fan about 4 years ago because of another issue (that was before I started fixing simple things myself). It seems to run correctly, so I don't think there is a problem with it. I wonder if the software update mentioned in an earlier post will fix my problem.
Do you have to have a particular kind of fan for it to work? Do I have to go to a dealership to get the update?
I live in the southeast USA and the summers are long and hot. My family and I would love to have the A/C consistently working.
Yeah my AC sucks when it's hot outside and I'm sitting at a light or in the parking lot but when I move it eventually cools down. My wife's Nissan Armada cool down regardless of if your are parked or moving. I guess that's the way the system works. Why I don't know, but that just seems like the way it goes.
the idea of an AC system is not to put "cold" into the car, but to remove the heat. there is no such thing as cold, just absence of heat. with that in mind if the compressor is cycling, system is properly charged, but you are not "loosing heat" then there is a heat removal issue at the condensor. IE no air movement across the condensor. put a pusher fan out front of the condensor and see if that helps. or check your existing fan for proper operation. :duh:
I have a 2007 TB and I also had thst same problem... come to find out it was doing it because I had too many dead bugs on the front of my radiator... had to change my radiator for a different reason and once I did that, my ac was running perfect. Good luck
I jumped out the pressure switch on the accumulator. You CAN hang meat in my 03 EXT after 3 minutes of idle during a high heat, high humidity day here in Baltimore.
I have been in the HVAC field since 1990, run my own little HVAC business since 2007. I noticed that the compressor was kicking in and out frequently during idle (and even when raising RPMs). I jumped this switch by unplugging it, cutting a plastic coated paperclip leaving a "U" shaped piece roughly 1" long, stripped the ends of the paperclip and jammed it in. My suction pressure never dropped below 20 psi, even at high RPMs.
I remember I read something about these switches on a message board as well. I have replaced the clutch fan as well because it was stuck in "I think I'm an airplane" speed. I hope my highly engineered method helps someone out.
I had the same issue but I fixed it. It was actually the fan clutch on the radiator fan. Even though it was turning it was wore out and not strong enough. At idle when it's hot you shouldn't be able to grab your fan with your hand and stop . I could, after putting the new fan clutch assembly on the fan runs much harder at idle when it's hot which in turn cools the AC cooler. I'm not saying it is your problem I'm just saying look at that for the problem.
I'll be honest, I'm an A.C. whore. I HATE heat so I use the air conditioning more than anyone I've ever met.
From my experience, all cars I have ever owned or driven seem to cool the car better while driving than while stopped. Sometimes it's very noticable, sometimes it's not- but it's always there.
I've always assumed it does that because the engine isn't turning the compressor fast enough, similar to the way that the headlights in some cars will get brighter when you step on the gas because at idle the alternator isn't turning fast enough to be at it's maximum efficiency.
This actually happens because at idle or low speed you have limited airflow across the condenser. In high ambient temperatures you have the added problem of the condenser being in close proximity to the radiator. Since the condenser isn't reducing the coolant down the compressor is not as efficient in pumping the refrigerant through the evaporator.
I have had this with every A/C car I've owned. I think the bottom line is the compressor has to be turning faster to really work. It's not a malfunction, it's physics. I could be wrong, just ask my wife.
Just wanted to chime in here. Never overlook the fan clutch in these babies. They are expensive because they are electronically controlled. They can wreak allot of havoc though and it sounds like they were problem child's in these things even though most garages and dealers will steer you away from it. I just did mine, because I had to. My water-pump gave out. I put up with it for a few years though and wish I hadn't once I got into doing the job and seeing how easy it was. Was even able to borrow the needed tools off of guys I work with. I had the same air conditioning problem you all are talking about, plus excessive noise accelerating but only in winter. Some say it may have caused the death of the water-pump.
All I can say is after completing the job it's like a different vehicle. No noise and Climate Control works well.:thumbsup:
My vortec 4.2 sounds rough. I have no issues with mileage (still getting 20 mpg highway), no error codes for the engine itself, idles smoothly, new belt and tensioner.
small oil leak (probably valve cover gasket)
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