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2005 chevy trailblazer_ls_ext
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Discussion Starter #1
2005 Trailblazer LS, 136K miles, In-line six.
Battery goes dead overnight, when cold (-0 Deg. F) two to three days (40 Deg.+ F or above)
Remove 40 amp (green) fuse #34 ("top" second from left) in under hood fuse box. With fuse removed, battery never goes dead. Have suspicion of ignition switch, but not sure, Can’t seem to see excessive draw with a meter. Has anyone else had this issue.
Also, has had engine noise for a long time at idle (never better or worse). Seems like a diaphragm noise of sort.
Have tried engine oil additives and run high quality synthetic oil.

Cut and paste the below link into your browser to listen to engine noise on YouTube...
Thank you!

 

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2004 gmc envoy_slt
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Fuse #34 supplies power to the ignition switch and the starter relay. With key off there should be no connection to any other circuit. I would suspect the ignition switch first, since this seems to be a high failure part on our trucks.
Don't know what the engine noise is, but I would suggest removing the serpentine belt and see if noise goes away. If it does, then it is coming from one of the belt driven items.
 

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2005 chevy trailblazer_ls_ext
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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks EnvoyBoy2004 for the reply... Was looking for some confirmation before I replace the switch, The noise is there with cerp off. Seems internal almost like a weird diaphragm (best I can describe) type sound. Same noise has probably been there for 50K miles and two trips to Utah. Not like a lifter noise though. Could a cracked manifold (where I can't see it) give me a sound like that? Also, if I listen inside the oil cap (removed) does not seem to be louder inside the engine. Thanks again.
:giggle:
 

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2007 chevy trailblazer_ls
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54617


54618

I would try pulling the starter relay (47) before replacing the ignition switch just to make sure it isn't a high resistance short in the starter wiring. But the odds are that it is the switch.

The noise also sounds like an exhaust manifold leak since it seems louder on the right side.Gasket? I assume the noise follows engine RPM.
 

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gmc envoy_sle
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TB-A1..With the fuse out, there should be 12 volts when you touch both prongs with the VOM probes if the switch is bad, also how do you check the starter relay?...Thanks, Bill

Also, I am having battery drain, checked switch fuse connections (not fuse) there is no current draw there.Have been told to check alternator after sitting overnight, if it's warm indicates a draw there,
 

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2008 chevy trailblazer_lt
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When I chased a battery drain, I disconnect the cables and check the resistance. If it's about a million ohms, you have no drain. But, if it gets anywhere near 20 or 30 ohms or less, then there is a serious drain. I'd check it with and without the relay removed. And I'd disconnect the battery, when not in use, until you figure it out.

Rob in AZ
 

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2003 chevy trailblazer_ltz
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2005 Trailblazer LS, 136K miles, In-line six.
Battery goes dead overnight, when cold (-0 Deg. F) two to three days (40 Deg.+ F or above)
Remove 40 amp (green) fuse #34 ("top" second from left) in under hood fuse box. With fuse removed, battery never goes dead. Have suspicion of ignition switch, but not sure, Can’t seem to see excessive draw with a meter. Has anyone else had this issue.
Also, has had engine noise for a long time at idle (never better or worse). Seems like a diaphragm noise of sort.
Have tried engine oil additives and run high quality synthetic oil.

Cut and paste the below link into your browser to listen to engine noise on YouTube...
Thank you!

I had mine continuously coming up dead at random times. It ended up being my headlights. The relay went bad making them come on at random times killing my battery. I was good to go after swapping the relay out. That noise sounds gnarly. But if it’s been there for 50k.
 

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2003 chevy trailblazer_lt
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2005 Trailblazer LS, 136K miles, In-line six.
Battery goes dead overnight, when cold (-0 Deg. F) two to three days (40 Deg.+ F or above)
Remove 40 amp (green) fuse #34 ("top" second from left) in under hood fuse box. With fuse removed, battery never goes dead. Have suspicion of ignition switch, but not sure, Can’t seem to see excessive draw with a meter. Has anyone else had this issue.
Also, has had engine noise for a long time at idle (never better or worse). Seems like a diaphragm noise of sort.
Have tried engine oil additives and run high quality synthetic oil.

Cut and paste the below link into your browser to listen to engine noise on YouTube...
Thank you!


Does the noise follow the engine rpm or the camshaft rpm? Can you hear it more when accelerating? Have you retrieved any of the scan codes yet?
 

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2005 Trailblazer LS, 136K miles, In-line six.
Battery goes dead overnight, when cold (-0 Deg. F) two to three days (40 Deg.+ F or above)
Remove 40 amp (green) fuse #34 ("top" second from left) in under hood fuse box. With fuse removed, battery never goes dead. Have suspicion of ignition switch, but not sure, Can’t seem to see excessive draw with a meter. Has anyone else had this issue.
Also, has had engine noise for a long time at idle (never better or worse). Seems like a diaphragm noise of sort.
Have tried engine oil additives and run high quality synthetic oil.

Cut and paste the below link into your browser to listen to engine noise on YouTube...
Thank you!

Could be fan belt clutch. I had to replace mine last year. It is a fairly common issue.
 

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2005 chevy trailblazer ext
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I had this exact issue little over a year ago. I replaced the ignition switch. Happened again. Searched for 2 days to find the problem. Turns out I didnt install the switch correctly. There were a few videos on YouTube that show you exactly how to install it. Batter hasn't died since
 

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gmc envoy_sle
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Mine was a bad battery, replaced 2 weeks before problem started. Bit the bullet, took it to a local shop that I have dealt with before. First thing they did was a battery load test, replaced battery, one week out, so far, so good.
BTW, The battery was only a couple weeks old.

Bill
 

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2008 chevy trailblazer_lt
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The noise you describe reminds me of piston slap. Modern engines sometimes have this but it usually goes away at operating temperature. My dad had a '69 Chevy pickup that did it from new and never stopped, it was still doing it with 148K on it when it went to the bone yard.
 

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2005 chevy trailblazer_ls_ext
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Discussion Starter #14
Fuse #34 supplies power to the ignition switch and the starter relay. With key off there should be no connection to any other circuit. I would suspect the ignition switch first, since this seems to be a high failure part on our trucks.
Don't know what the engine noise is, but I would suggest removing the serpentine belt and see if noise goes away. If it does, then it is coming from one of the belt driven items.
...
Fuse #34 supplies power to the ignition switch and the starter relay. With key off there should be no connection to any other circuit. I would suspect the ignition switch first, since this seems to be a high failure part on our trucks.
Don't know what the engine noise is, but I would suggest removing the serpentine belt and see if noise goes away. If it does, then it is coming from one of the belt driven items.
I pulled all the sub fuses on the schematic related to Fuse #34 and the starter relay, Replaced Fuse #34 and battery went dead overnight, Leads me to the ignition switch I guess
 

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2005 chevy trailblazer_ls_ext
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Discussion Starter #15
View attachment 54617

View attachment 54618
I would try pulling the starter relay (47) before replacing the ignition switch just to make sure it isn't a high resistance short in the starter wiring. But the odds are that it is the switch.

The noise also sounds like an exhaust manifold leak since it seems louder on the right side.Gasket? I assume the noise follows engine RPM.
The noise actually goes away with any increase in RPM. That's why I was wondering if there is some component in the engine that has some kind of a diaphragm.
My 06 BMW X3 was making a somewhat similar noise and it was the Crankcase Vent Valve / Oil Separator. (Complicated PCV valve I guess) Pain in the hiney to change.
 

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2005 chevy trailblazer_ls_ext
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Discussion Starter #16
I had this exact issue little over a year ago. I replaced the ignition switch. Happened again. Searched for 2 days to find the problem. Turns out I didnt install the switch correctly. There were a few videos on YouTube that show you exactly how to install it. Batter hasn't died since
Thanks, that's where I am headed. Just wanted some confirmation. Very seldom drive vehicle now that I'm retired, so pulling fuse #34 is no big deal.
 

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2005 Trailblazer LS, 136K miles, In-line six.
Battery goes dead overnight, when cold (-0 Deg. F) two to three days (40 Deg.+ F or above)
Remove 40 amp (green) fuse #34 ("top" second from left) in under hood fuse box. With fuse removed, battery never goes dead. Have suspicion of ignition switch, but not sure, Can’t seem to see excessive draw with a meter. Has anyone else had this issue.
Also, has had engine noise for a long time at idle (never better or worse). Seems like a diaphragm noise of sort.
Have tried engine oil additives and run high quality synthetic oil.

Cut and paste the below link into your browser to listen to engine noise on YouTube...
Thank you!

Just a simple question here for my own reasons....

Did you buy this vehicle from a 'Dollar Down, Make Payments Here" type dealership as a used vehicle?

Many of those dealers install GPS devices that - although they are simple enough to install, any idiot can install them badly - and they DO discharge the battery if they fail and draw a lot more current than they should.

One place to look for the GPS device, is to check the OBD-2 connection under the knee kick panel and see if there's another OBD-2 jumper with a lot of oddball wires attached to it.

You can still scan it through the OBD-2 port and all OK-enough - but it makes a constant draw on the battery even while the key is off and removed.

Add in a service-free/non-serviceable vehicle battery that has been allowed to drop under 10.3VDC and you've got a bad current draw situation and an untrustworthy battery at the same time.

Modern batteries just never really recover from being below that voltage - more so if it freezes one night just enough to harm but not totally destroy the plates inside with the expanding ice buildup.

Here's some info on these GPS trackers that dealers use:
  • Ideal for tracking vehicles and property.
  • 2-3 weeks of battery life between charges.
  • Live audio monitoring lets you hear what’s happening at tracker’s location.
  • Built-in magnet mount allows tracker to be mounted under a vehicle.
  • Realtime tracking with 30 second updates.
  • Easy to use tracking from any iOS or Android phone or web browser.
  • Trackable worldwide with a global SIM card (included).
Reliable Real-time tracking
The Mobile-200 GPS tracker is a great tracker for cars and assets. It’s easy to use and has a long battery life (2-3 weeks between charges). Track from your iOS or Android device or any web browser. Get real-time tracking alerts if the tracker enters or exits an area. The tracker updates its location every 30 seconds.

Live Audio Monitoring
The Mobile-200 can also send live audio from its location to your cell phone. To enable stealth audio monitoring, you simply call your tracker’s phone number. When you call, you will hear an opened microphone channel to the tracker. Audio monitoring is silent at the tracker’s location. Mobile-200 is an ideal GPS car tracker.

LINK HERE
 
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