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2006 chevy trailblazer_ls
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
P2440 Secondary Air Injection System Switching Valve Stuck Open Bank1

Got this code this morning in both the actual code version and the pending version. Factory warranty just ran out. Doubt this is covered under power train warranty. Anybody ever seen this or have a book that diagnoses it? The only place on the internet I could find anything even related to this is a toyota off road forum which I doubt will help me.

www.ncttora.com/fsm/05+/data/ileaf/06toyrm/06toypdf/06rmsrc/rm2006ta/0060059.pdf

Any ideas?
 

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2003 chevy trailblazer_ls
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I think thats the valve that alot of people on here change out.
It turns out- it sort of rusts.
easy to change-
 

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2004 chevy trailblazer_lt
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Yea, I checked and i can't find the code you have... P0410 is there.
Whatever you used to get that DTC code, are you sure you trust it?
 

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2006 chevy trailblazer_ls
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
So your thinking my code is related to the solenoid valve in the linked thread's picture?
 

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2004 chevy trailblazer_ls_ext
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PO410 is a secondary air injection DTC, however, it is not specific...

P2440 is specific to the valve...
 

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2006 chevy trailblazer_ls
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Got the valve off of the engine last night. Looked into the air intake of it and there was rust everywhere. The inside looks like the bottom was a rolled wave of metal, a metal column up the center and a large circular disk on the top with no lubrication to be found.

The air hose that goes to the pump I believe pulls normal dirty air because it is attached to the air box cover and not a location behind the air filter. This whole system looks like questionable design to me.

The disk was definitely in the up position but I was unable to blow air through the valve in either direction(blowing in the intake and blowing in the exhaust outlet). Is there some sort of check or one way pressurized valve also in these so when they fail like mine exhaust gases can not be forced the opposite way through them and damage the air pump? If there is, is that why the air pump is so big?

The upper and lower portion of the valve was held together by 3 torx screws. The one closest to the intake was impossible to get out even after an hour of penetrating oil. Looks like I am ordering a whole new valve. Anyone know of a reputable place to get cheap GM parts? The dealership wants $227.37 for the valve and $7.06 for the gasket. Once I get the new one it should take me less than an hour to put it on. I just hope this is the problem for $250. I hope the replacement ones are better than the factory installed ones because I really do not look forward to paying for this every 40k miles.
 

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I have an 03.. so I dont have this part on mine..
But from reading on here..
I believe the new part is an updated part... to solve this rusting issue and keep moisture out...

I think I also recall that the part is much cheaper than that elsewhere.... (online maybe)
www.parts4chevy.com I think...

Also- you may want to follow the hoses to the Air pump and see if no water has collected at the pump...

(im typing all this from memory---stuff Ive read on here-- since Ive never actually seen these parts... but search a few more threads and they may have info from others who have changed the part and encountered moisture and where they bought their parts)
 

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found this on another post...
also mentions that the part can be had for $90.
Another person posted that they removed the hose and water came out.



Just know that diagnosing this is time consuming since the "system" is only active for a few seconds on cold start.

for now:
1.) wait for your car to be "cold" or 4 hours. Disconnect the hose from check valve (located passenger side--the transmission dip stick is attached to the bolts that hold it to the block). Start the truck, you should hear a nasty sound for about 30 seconds to a minute. If you don't its your check valve.
1a.) If it is your check valve, you can try to clean it. Get some throttle body cleaner, remove the check valve spray thouroughly (I did it a couple of times to get all the carbon and rust out) and let dry reinstall and follow above instructions. If no go replace check valve

2.) wait for your car to be "cold" or 4 hours. remove the fattest hose from the underside of air intake hose (I think thats where it is, I have a CAI so Its hard to know where it is exactly OEM) and from the check valve. Have someone else start the truck. Feel the hoses, you should feel sucking and blowing (I can't remember which is supposed to blow / suck) If you don't feel anything then its the pump (maybe -- read further)
2a.) check fuses there are about 3 in the manual listed for air pump (if bad fuse replace and retest, make sure to check the fuses after to make sure that the pump isnt blowing fuses)
2b.) Locate the air pump its driver side mid car just behind the cross member for the frame. There are two wiring harnesess one that goes into the relay (grey box) and one that has two fat wires (thats the power plug for the pump.) disconnect that one, wait for cold start and start truck while having a multimeter attached set on DC mode. If you get a reading of 0 then replace the relay. if you get power 12-15 volts replace the motor.
3.) If both the check valve and the pump are testing out ok it could be a clogged hose.
 

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a post by the roadie on 1/29/09


parts4chevys.com has it listed as a check valve. $128 list. $80 for you.

Oddly enough, Advance Auto doesn't have it on their web site either. Nor Autozone or Autowarehouse. Hmmmm, beginning to think it's a dealer-only item. Sigh....

There's one on Ebay for $90, but the vendor is a lying S.O.S.

Part number on this is #12583486, The AC-Delco # for this is #214-1683. (The AC-Delco number is for reference only our)

The dealship price on these Air Check Valves are $280.00, These are at an awesome price especially for OEM not Aftermarkets or copies.



OEHQ.com says that AC-Delco part number has been replaced by 214-2151, GM part number 12619110, but I'm not sure I believe that without more evidence because parts4chevys.com has that listed for 50% higher price, and I can't find out where it's used.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Replaced the valve today in about 30 minutes. Turned the engine on from a cold start and the check engine light immediately went off. Turned off and started 3 more times. No more check engine light. Hopefully it fixed it and I do not get the light back anytime soon.

The new part I got had a rubber ring around the center column near the large upper disk. Hopefully that keeps the rust from forming and keeps the valve from sticking.
 

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Replaced the valve today in about 30 minutes. Turned the engine on from a cold start and the check engine light immediately went off. Turned off and started 3 more times. No more check engine light. Hopefully it fixed it and I do not get the light back anytime soon.

The new part I got had a rubber ring around the center column near the large upper disk. Hopefully that keeps the rust from forming and keeps the valve from sticking.

Could you post a part number, the number I found from gmpartsdirect was a different part number...
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
ACD # 214-2151
GM# 12619110

OE DATE 02/26/09

are the numbers on the box that I bought.
 

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Removed my hoses this morning, on cold start, strong air flow both directions:) , solenoid valve, no noise:(. I simply removed, cleaned and freed up that plunger valve thing:D Oh! the resistor mearsured 5.8 ohms, cool! Connected battery , cleared code, rode down the road. Hour later, no SES light,cool:D:
 

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Ok some one tell me what i am missing here. My buick 06 46K threw the P2444 code on me on a long trip. I was worried about it until i pulled over and pulled the code and then i was relieved to hear it was something so stupid. Long story short got home tonight and pulled the hoses blew in the blower housing the wheel seemed to rotate and then started it up and the sucker made the same whiny noise it always does. Does that mean that nothing is wrong and it was just one of those things? Maybe i am not thinking of this right.:bonk:
 

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P2440 code

Thankyou everyone I got that code yesterday at around 48000 miles. I was worried since I had no idea what a secondary air inj switching valve was or where to find it. I read this thread and found it right away, attached to the dipstick. Took the hose off and also had water come out. I Knew I was on the right trial. Took the Valve off and sperated the top and bottom cleaning the rust off and pulled on the plunger a few times freeing it up. Put it back together, cleared the code. Started up great, code did not pop back on so time will tell.
 

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PO410 Air Injector

I just went through that whole mess ,one replacement part after the other.I found that the cheapest place to obtain the air check valve was at www.rockauto.com Pt.# is 214222 (214-2222) $79.79 With $3.99 Discount from rockauto and $8.23 shipping .Total $84.03
 

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2008 gmc envoy_slt
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i just got this P2440 code on my Envoy. I got another code several months ago and a few weeks after that one came up, my engine started making this loud whining noise like a vacuum cleaner on cold start, lasted less than 30 seconds. i have had numerous people listen and at two garages. the first one fixed my check engine code but said it was supposed to make that noise. which it never made for the two years previous i have owned it. i have been jerked around by everyone telling me different things. so today, this new code came up. reading this thread makes me think this may be the cause of my loud noise? my additional question would be if this would affect your gas mileage in any manner? mine has dropped 3-4 miles per gallon on normal trips to and from work, but not on long distance trips. hoping i can find someone to fix it this time. tired of being treated like a dumb girl when i know my vehicle better than anyone else! :thx
 

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question - Replacing check valve

Hi guys -

I just got my secondary check valve and gasket but have quick question to those that installed it - when you unplugged the electrical connector, hose, then unbolted how did you safely pry off? Mine looks very stuck on and I don't want to just screwdriver pry it if that's not the thing to do there...

- also did you replace gasket by itself or use any sealant?

thank you very much.
 
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