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2005 gmc envoy_sle_xl
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air valve

Uhhhhh am i blind or just losing my marbles....I have the P 0410 code also, am looking now @ engine....no air valve or throttle body there...throttle body on other side of intake manifold....this is an american vehicle....what am I missing here????:duh:
 

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2005 gmc envoy_slt
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Solonoid wiring

Where does the wire go from the solonoid relay to the solonoid ? If i jump the socket of the relay with 12 volt there is no 12 volt at the pink and black wire on the solonoid.Does that wire go somewhere or through something first. The wire diagram shows it direct. I read almost every page but cant solve this yet. Thanks
 

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2005 chevy trailblazer_ls
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Same old, same old

Alright guys, short and sweet as possible. Had the 410 code come on a few weeks ago. Was hearing a "jet" noise on cold start. Air blew/sucked from hoses, pump was good. Pulled off the check valve -- stuck closed. Cleaned it with everything I had, popped it loose (may have damaged the rubber a little), reassembled and the check engine light went off.

Fast forward to now. Light back on. Haven't taken it in to grab the code yet, but I figure it'll be the 410. Hoses still suck/pump air. When hose is pulled from check valve, I can hear the definitive exhaust sound. It goes away in 20-25 seconds (I'm assuming that the valve closing/pump turning off, correct me if I'm wrong).

If the code is indeed the 410 again (I'm sure it will be), what do you guys suggest my problem is?

Thanks for the help.
 

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2004 gmc envoy_sle
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Check Engine Light P0410

Hi Everyone, Thanks to this thread I was finally able to figure out which parts were involved and starting taking what I could apart. I pulled the hoses off at the pump end and virtually no water dripped out, which probably is due to the fact the system quit running 3 years ago. Since there was no water there Im hoping the pump and solenoid are fine. I pulled the relay on the pump and out came all the water, it was flooded and corroded. Went on Amazon and ordered it, ACDelco 212-559 Air Injection Pump Relay Assembly' by ACDelco only 17 dollars. Called the parts store and they wanted 30. When I finally do install it Im going to wrap it up in a plastic bag or something similar cause the GM designed seal sucks. Im hoping that it will come back on line and I can move on to fixing the P0128 code and the stuck open thermostat. Dealer wanted 1400 dollars to fix the trouble codes. Im glad i went into shock and told them not to bother.
 

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2005 gmc envoy_slt
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First - thank you to all helping in this thread for getting me this far in the troubleshooting process
......but I'm a little lost at this point.

I've had the 0410 code haunting me for a while now (~3weeks). I thought I had diagnosed it to the intake valve, but honestly the diagnosis may have been before I read enough of the thread to know that it only engages on a cold start. It's possible that inverified it wasn't working when it shouldn't have been working in the first place. Either way, I pulled cleaned it, exercised it a bit, put it back on and confirmed it is working by removing the hose and listening at cold start. After clearing the code, it returned a day or two later.

I pulled the hose to the valve and the intake hose and checked for air flow on cold start - nothing in either hose. So based on reading this thread my suspicion turned to the air pump/relay.

I need a better explanation on testing these parts
2b.) Locate the air pump its driver side mid car just behind the cross member for the frame. There are two wiring harnesess one that goes into the relay (grey box) and one that has two fat wires (thats the power plug for the pump.) disconnect that one, wait for cold start and start truck while having a multimeter attached set on DC mode. If you get a reading of 0 then replace the relay. if you get power 12-15 volts replace the motor.
My confusion is that there is actually 3 wiring harnesses down there. I did pull the one that is obviously power of some kind with only two wires (red/black), assuming this is what chunk351 was referring to in the quote. I was expecting 0V, put the meter was reading 12V with the car off. How can that be? It did jump up to ~14V on a cold start. Am I measuring the wrong thing? If so, what is it? If not, why is there 12V in the off position?

There is another harness with 4 wires, which makes me think it's connected to a relay. It's got 2 fat red wires, a yellowish and a brown wire which are smaller. Does this sound like the relay I'm looking for? I did put a meter on the two fatter red connections and, again, 12V with the car off. What the? I guess that would make sence if one of them is hot and other (which is at ground potential when off) gets shorted when the relay works? Maybe this is the case and I was just measuring the wrong points. ???

I would just pull the pump and put 12V to it to see if it turns on, but I have virtually no equipment (ramps, jacks, etc) and its seemingly impossible to get room under there without. Plus I am now dead set on definitively testing the relay based on the above quote which has me baffled.

Sorry for the looong post. Just wanted to give you the history.

Please help.
 

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The saga continues...

I just wanted to give a quick update in case it might help others chasing the P0410 code.

Here is where I'm at (and the step-by-step I would recommend):
- Checked all pertinent fuses
- Checked/repaired the check valve and verified function by disconnecting the hose and listening at cold start.
- Removed and tested secondary air pump relay by applying 12V to the two small leads and checking continuity on the two large leads - checked OK
- Removed and tested secondary air pump by applying 12V at connection - nothing

I guess I'll be stopping at the store for an air pump tomorrow - crap. There goes 200 bucks.

I thought is was a little strange that the pump was the culprit since most accounts in this thread seemed to be primarily the check valve or the relay. I guess I don't have to understand it. I'm just happy to have found the problem thanks to this site.

I'm going to drive the truck ~60 miles tomorrow without the pump on and the hoses hanging open. I hope this isn't a bad idea. Any thoughts?
 

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2004 chevy trailblazer_ls
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Thanks, The procedures worked for me

My check engine light has been on for close to three years. I knew what the code P0410 meant just did not want to spend the $1,000+ at the dealership.

So I researched the possible fixes her on trailvoy.com and here is what I did.

I disconnected the two hoses on the air pump located under the drivers side floor pan attached to the frame rail (pull the hoses by squeezing the side of the plastic clips and pulling away), the water poured out, I then blew the air pump out with my air compressor and let it sit for away, next I unplugged the relay next to the air pump and cleaned the contacts with a small metal file, I then made sure there were no metal shavings in the relay. I replugged the relay together. Next I disconnected the the air hose off the check valve and blew that with the air compressor, I then reattached the hose on the check valve. Next I checked the fuse and it was blown (I think it was #54 15amp), I replaced the fuse. I then reattached the hoses to the air compressor. Finally to be sure everything reset, I disconnected the battery, and let it sit for 15 minutes.

I started up the vehicle and heard the wonderful sound of that pump whirling away and the check engine light out.

Thanks to all who post here, without you I could not have completed this.
 

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2005 chevy trailblazer_ls
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I believe the reason you had water in the pump lines is because your check valve is bad. When you disconnected your battery the light would go out, but I bet it will come back on unless you repair or replace your check valve.
 

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I began my troubleshooting under the TB at the pump. After removing both hoses and finding no water I mover to the relay. Upon opening it water came out. It must have been wet inside for over a week but I found no signs of corrosion. My question is: can the relay be dried and reconnected or is it damaged internally? Can air drying be achieved to the parts I can't physically reach?
 

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2004 chevy trailblazer_ls
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I took the relay off the car and cleaned up the connections, I also replaced the air check valve with a dorman 911003 from Rockauto for $65
 

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2008 chevy trailblazer_ls
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Long story short... I looked closer and found that the back end of the pump was completely blown off. I got lucky and just happened to see it wedged between the frame rail and the bracket. I would have been really confused as to why it wasn't working properly since it powered up when I jumped the 2 power leads. So new pump it is. I'll get the relay as well. Can someone clarify for me the difference between the 3 different style/price(s) of pump on the RockAuto site?
 

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2002 gmc envoy_slt
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code 410

:woohoo:

p0410 secondary air injection valve malfunction..

will post some picture in a while
will the 410 code cause a plugged convertor.both oxy sensors are ranging low to high 2 garages said convertor is plugged ,i bought a aftermarket heavy metal convertor but need a way to check and see if its plugged.owner says car bogs down after driving a few miles.heck it could be fuel pump or filter.i use a 9135 actron code reader.
 

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code 410 in history

owner says 2 shops say plugged convertor , car slows down after 5 minutes running time and she says she thought it was transmission as it wouldnt rev high enough to shift to next gear. has a code 410 code any ideas? it could be bad fuel pump or filter i guess
 

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2005 chevy
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Hey guys,

After much :coffee of this forum, I decided to tackle my own diagnostic of the dreaded p0410 code saturday night...

-Checked fuses, good:)
-Disconnected hoses from valve, cold start for under 40 seconds, no valve noise and no suction or blowing from pump :ugh:
-Took off valve, disassembled, cleaned with WD40 and jumped with 12v source, no luck :sadcry:
-Disconnected hoses from pump, dry as a bone, no water in pump. :yes:
-Checked hoses for clogs, none ;)
-Jumped pump with 12v source, sound of motor, but no air movement :(
-Used voltmeter on harness plugs 38 and 85 (i think) and had a 12v signal until 30 seconds passed! :excited:
-Relay looks fine, no discoloration or corrosion :)

From this, I gathered the valve was first to go from (a lot) of carbon buildup... then pump failed when it ran constantly (or never ran?? <--- still not sure on that).

Ordered ACDelco valve w/gasket and pump form Amazon, shipped in two days for $228.... LESS than AutoZone wanted for some no-name, rebuilt pump ALONE. The valve through them would have been another $106!!!

I'll update once these parts are on and :x .... (whoa, I can't jinx myself!!)
 

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2005 chevy
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Victory!!

I hereby claim my dreaded p0410 code is defeated by TKO by this thread...

After replacing the bad valve and pump on Tuesday evening, the check engine light reset itself on Wednesday after a couple cold start-ups. It remained off the rest of the week (with extra cold starts- some under 40 seconds and others minutes- during random times in the early morning and late-night).

Took the trailblazer this morning to get emissions tested and she passed :woot:

Thank you Chunk351 for your amazing "how-to" instructions and the rest of you for your specific case details to troubleshoot other possibilities.

I am forever in your debt!!:thx
 

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My testimonial(2 cents)

Just my testimonial. I got here because I also had this same code on my truck few years ago. Looked online. Learned a lot from forums. Confidence rose and I took myself out there at my truck and started pulling those air pump hoses and behold, lots of WATER! Since the air check valve was in the mix of possible causes of concern I unbolted it and found a little bit of water,rust and crud inside. I cleaned it but after driving it like that the code reappeared(bummer). I knew the pump was working and the relay just because it runs. So I figured a new air pump check valve would certainly fix it. After I replaced it, I never saw the code again and its been years since. Knowledge is power. After that shenanigan, I can honestly say I understand emissions systems much more.

Amazing that 60 pages of this thread has accumulated just on this topic. Yet people still have questions on the same thing that's been figured out. But all is well. :) This is my first post on any internet forum.
 

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Just my testimonial. I got here because I also had this same code on my truck few years ago. Looked online. Learned a lot from forums. Confidence rose and I took myself out there at my truck and started pulling those air pump hoses and behold, lots of WATER.
I have replaced the check valve on my Trailblazer and a few of my friends Trailblazers. If there was water in the system it has always been because of a bad check valve. I also had to replace my air pump. It worked but did not pump much air. This tread was a big help.
 

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2006 gmc envoy_sle
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Check engine light came on, took my 2006 Envoy to the dealer. They want $800 to replace the 1) secondary air injection pump and 2) check valve. Parts and labor.

The thing is, I am planning on buying a new GMC real soon. I need 2-3 months to research and find a good deal. Can I just opt to not replace these two parts and keep driving the car for another 3 months or so?

I don't have emissions tests in my state. I drive it about 75 miles/week, no interstate driving.
 

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Check engine light came on, took my 2006 Envoy to the dealer. They want $800 to replace the 1) secondary air injection pump and 2) check valve. Parts and labor.

The thing is, I am planning on buying a new GMC real soon. I need 2-3 months to research and find a good deal. Can I just opt to not replace these two parts and keep driving the car for another 3 months or so?

I don't have emissions tests in my state. I drive it about 75 miles/week, no interstate driving.
You should be fine, my wife drove hers for a couple months once I realized what the code was... The valve and pump only come on to recycle cold exhaust on cold starts for emissions purposes... should not harm the engine in any way. Although ur carbon footprint will increase by .01% (not a real statistic, just sarcasm).
:D
Best of luck
 
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