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2002 gmc envoy_slt_xl
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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
I'll keep my fingers crossed for you and before going to bed tonight, I'll swing a dead chicken around!
Thanks, I'll take anything I can get! I'm driving this thing to the salvage yard if I can't get it fixed soon without dumping too much more $$ at it. After it was all put back together, now there is a power steering fluid leak at the rack & pinion, still haven't crawled under there to see where. It's always had a slow leak from the driver side end, but just a few drops which collect inside the boot. I knew the cup seals were in bad shape where the lines plug in, they were egg shaped, thought maybe they'd be a problem. I bet that's where it's coming from. New rebuild kit on the way smh.
 

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2002 Pewter ls with automatic trans. 4x2, gray cloth interior.
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Which other solenoid are you talking about? I have the 4.2 I6, I believe there is only the one which controls the exhaust cam phaser.
I'm sorry I had left out the name. Both vvt and cam sensor are both I'd swap it. But remember do chem_man suggested steer away from the non branded cheapo stuff.

I found the super cheap parts for the trailblazer are for temporary use as they will not last and may even be defective products to begin with.
 

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2002 gmc envoy_slt_xl
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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
Just looking through my order history from Autozone, looks like the VVT solenoid was replaced last with a Duralast brand 2-13-21.
 

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2002 Pewter ls with automatic trans. 4x2, gray cloth interior.
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Just looking through my order history from Autozone, looks like the VVT solenoid was replaced last with a Duralast brand 2-13-21.
Should be under warranty, perhaps the cam sensor is the main culprit for these codes? I am only taking a guess as testing would be required or swapping parts.

I understand about not wanting to keep spending or toss away money. Sometimes we have to bow down to a mechanic with those expensive diagnostic tools.
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
Should be under warranty, perhaps the cam sensor is the main culprit for these codes? I am only taking a guess as testing would be required or swapping parts.

I understand about not wanting to keep spending or toss away money. Sometimes we have to bow down to a mechanic with those expensive diagnostic tools.
Wouldn't have even thought about the warranty, looks like it has a limited lifetime warranty. I did replace the cam sensor recently as well. Not to say it couldn't be bad, but the P0013 code seems to be very specific to the VVT solendoid. "Open or Short in Oil Control Valve (OCV) (Bank 1) "
 

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2004 chevy trailblazer_lt
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slowsl, the Duralast VVT Solenoid is manufactured by Wells Vehicle Electronics, and I have never had good luck with engine management parts made by Wells over the last 50 years. I know Wells claims to be an OEM manufacturer, but between my experiences the experiences by several professional mechanics I know, and what I have read on various automotive related forums, Wells products are to be avoided.

See if Autozone will warrant it and for a few dollars more, replace it with the TechSmart VVT Solenoid (P/N L53002). TechSmart is a line of problem solving parts manufactured by Standard Motor Products (SMP) one of the premier aftermarket engine management component manufacturers that has been around for 100 years.

FYI, SMP also labels their parts for NAPA Echlin, BWD (another division of SMP which markets/distributes their products in a slightly different manner), Blue Streak (the brand that made them famous) and now TechSmart. SMP manufactures virtually all of their products.

Good Luck!
 

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2007 gmc envoy_slt
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Mr Sparky has a good thought that maybe the passages to and/or between the VVT solenoid and the phaser are blocked up? If you do your test to see if the cam moves while running I would suppose that would rule that out but if the oil doesnt get to the phaser to move it that might be the issue.
 

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2004 Trailblazer LS 4.20 L
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there is a bracket on the inner fender that clamps the power steering lines, almost directly under the fuse panel. if there is oil/fluid up that far on the lines, then your leak is probably on the edge of the rubber of that bracket. my lines were very weak and corroded and weaping there next to that bracket (when i bought the trailblazer.) the guy was pouring a pint of fluid a week in it!. i fixed it for just about the price of one pint of fluid. took me awhile to get the bolt out.

how often have you changed the engine oil before 2 weeks ago? dirty engine oil is common on these 4.2 Ls. due to the high amounts of emissions recycling no doubt. i would probably change it again and upgrade the filter. maybe seafoam it and then change it again if it hasnt been changed real often.
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
slowsl, the Duralast VVT Solenoid is manufactured by Wells Vehicle Electronics, and I have never had good luck with engine management parts made by Wells over the last 50 years. I know Wells claims to be an OEM manufacturer, but between my experiences the experiences by several professional mechanics I know, and what I have read on various automotive related forums, Wells products are to be avoided.

See if Autozone will warrant it and for a few dollars more, replace it with the TechSmart VVT Solenoid (P/N L53002). TechSmart is a line of problem solving parts manufactured by Standard Motor Products (SMP) one of the premier aftermarket engine management component manufacturers that has been around for 100 years.

FYI, SMP also labels their parts for NAPA Echlin, BWD (another division of SMP which markets/distributes their products in a slightly different manner), Blue Streak (the brand that made them famous) and now TechSmart. SMP manufactures virtually all of their products.

Good Luck!
Good info for future purchases. I Just received a genuine ACDelco VVT, so at least I can reasonably assume this unit is good for further diagnosing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
Mr Sparky has a good thought that maybe the passages to and/or between the VVT solenoid and the phaser are blocked up? If you do your test to see if the cam moves while running I would suppose that would rule that out but if the oil doesnt get to the phaser to move it that might be the issue.
When I had the chain tensioner off, I had blown air through the two oil passages and could hear it escaping both, not sure exactly the path it goes though though, so may not have gone completely from the solenoid port to the camshaft. I still haven't had a chance to mess with it, but that is what I'm going to try to do is jump the current VVT solenoid and see what happens while running. I also have the new ACDelco solenoid I can pop in.
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
there is a bracket on the inner fender that clamps the power steering lines, almost directly under the fuse panel. if there is oil/fluid up that far on the lines, then your leak is probably on the edge of the rubber of that bracket. my lines were very weak and corroded and weaping there next to that bracket (when i bought the trailblazer.) the guy was pouring a pint of fluid a week in it!. i fixed it for just about the price of one pint of fluid. took me awhile to get the bolt out.

how often have you changed the engine oil before 2 weeks ago? dirty engine oil is common on these 4.2 Ls. due to the high amounts of emissions recycling no doubt. i would probably change it again and upgrade the filter. maybe seafoam it and then change it again if it hasnt been changed real often.
Still didn't get a chance to look, but I'm positive it's from either the driver cylinder end or the hose cup seals. The fluid puddles are directly underneath the rack, driver side. The cylinder end has had a slow leak for years, and I noticed when I had the tie rod end disconnected and the weight of it hanging down, the seal was leaking quite a bit more. I also had one of the cup seals pop off when I lowered the rack, and it was egged out, but I just put it back together and kept my fingers crossed. I have a rebuild kit on the way, hopefully that solves it.
 

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I've had P0013 & P0014 for years now. Finally decided I didn't want to deal with the rough cold starts and 10mpg gas mileage anymore. Below are the things I've done.
I've read countless threads here, as well as all the videos I could find on Youtube to try to solve this. I'm focused on the P0013 circuit malfunction, as this is likely causing the P0014 over advance condition, as the PCM is not able to control the solenoid/phaser.

VVT solenoid w/ oil change 3 months ago (generic)... no change

Camshaft phaser/timing chain replaced w/ oil change, one week ago... no change. The old phaser was crusted and locked up. It took some working with a pipe wrench to get it free. Once free, the spring tension was very low, so I suspect it had been not working for a very long time and had seized up.

Pulled the VVT and made sure the screens were clean, they were.

Swapped PCM, after a few cycles the codes were back, no change.

I've also probed the VVT solenoid harness pins, +12V on one and ground on the other. I've unplugged the harness from the PCM and checked for a short circuit to ground on the wires, and all was good. I've applied 12V straight from the battery to the solenoid and can hear it clicking just fine.

Here is what I plan to try in the next day or two....

Check the resistance on the VVT solenoid, should be 8-10ohms.

With engine idling, apply direct battery voltage to VVT solenoid. This should stall or stumble the engine, this will tell me that the system would work if it were to get voltage/command from the PCM.

If that tests okay, I will probe the harness, run the wires into the cabin with a spare solenoid and multitester, drive around to see if the PCM is actually sending the signal under normal driving conditions, however I'm wondering if the PCM will not do anything with the VVT circuit after the circuit is checked and the P0013 code is there, might need to clear the codes, then immediately take it for a drive.

Something I thought was strange was that I probed the harness, verified 12V, but the second the harness is plugged into the VVT solenoid, the voltage goes to 0, and the solenoid never clicks. A tech video that I watched showed that this was normal, so must just be how the PCM works with controlling the voltage & pulse, but just seemed strange to me, apparently that is normal.

Can anyone please give me your thoughts? I've spend so much time and $$ on this issue, I feel like I have to get it fixed.
What are the Possible Causes of the P0113 Code?
There are several possible issues that can trigger the P0113 code. Common culprits include the following:
  • Intake air temperature sensor 1 experienced an internal problem
  • Bad connection between the IAT sensor 1 and its circuit due to problems like dirt, rust, and looseness
  • Damaged IAT circuit wiring
  • Problem with the mass air flow sensor (if the IAT is integrated into the mass air flow sensor)
  • PCM issues (such as software in need of an update)
 

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Michael Thurman, thread discussion is about a P0013 DTC, not P0113.

slowsl, it's a good idea to use new seals on the PS hose to steering rack connections whenever the connections are disturbed for a variety of reasons. Now, that being said, not knowing what city & state you reside in, I would strongly suggest you examine with a fine tooth comb both of the PS hoses from end to end, and especially where they go up and over the driver's side strut tower. Remove the clamp and rubber line insulator from the strut tower if you have to. The factory PS lines are subject to galvanic corrosion due to dirt and dissimilar metals, and if they are showing any rust/corrosion REPLACE them. They will leak. The only question is if they will leak sooner or later, and if the high pressure hose springs a leak, you will have one heck of a mess.

I won't lie to you, replacing the PS lines can be a nightmare because of all the twists, turns, wiring harnesses, and other stuff that is in the way. If I recall correctly, the factory service manual quotes the labor time for the job at 3+ hours. I have read where labor alone to replace these lines can run between $600 - $1000.

If you do replace them, then the other choices you will have 1 - which brand of hose to go with, and 2 - go with the original design which uses cup seals or the "improved" design which uses o-rings. I went with Gates hoses and the original design and cup seals. In the end, I did not have any leaks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
Michael Thurman, thread discussion is about a P0013 DTC, not P0113.

slowsl, it's a good idea to use new seals on the PS hose to steering rack connections whenever the connections are disturbed for a variety of reasons. Now, that being said, not knowing what city & state you reside in, I would strongly suggest you examine with a fine tooth comb both of the PS hoses from end to end, and especially where they go up and over the driver's side strut tower. Remove the clamp and rubber line insulator from the strut tower if you have to. The factory PS lines are subject to galvanic corrosion due to dirt and dissimilar metals, and if they are showing any rust/corrosion REPLACE them. They will leak. The only question is if they will leak sooner or later, and if the high pressure hose springs a leak, you will have one heck of a mess.

I won't lie to you, replacing the PS lines can be a nightmare because of all the twists, turns, wiring harnesses, and other stuff that is in the way. If I recall correctly, the factory service manual quotes the labor time for the job at 3+ hours. I have read where labor alone to replace these lines can run between $600 - $1000.

If you do replace them, then the other choices you will have 1 - which brand of hose to go with, and 2 - go with the original design which uses cup seals or the "improved" design which uses o-rings. I went with Gates hoses and the original design and cup seals. In the end, I did not have any leaks.
I'll take a look next time I'm under the hood. I got a rebuild kit and cup seals for now. Hopefully that will get me by for another few years, hoping the lines themselves don't spring a leak. Strange thing is the engine bay is extremely clean (as far as corrosion/rust) for being through years of Indiana winters and having almost 250,000 miles. I know what you mean though about the corrosion from dissimilar metals, one of my other cars has that exact same problem where the line holding straps are.
 

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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
So I made a little bit of headway last night. Not exactly what I was hoping for, but at least I'm getting some answers. I pulled the VVT solenoid, double checked by applying 12V directly. It clicked several times, then just stopped working. It appears that it is bad. Pulled the new one out of the box and checked it with 12V, and you could feel the coil/plunger was a much stronger click. I didn't bother with checking resistance across the old VVT solenoid, I'm almost positive that's where the P0013 was coming from now. I say almost positive because I didn't get a chance to drive it through a few cycles to see if the code comes back. I cleared the codes and the P0013 hasn't showed up as a hard fault or pending at this point yet, so hopefully that part of the problem is solved. The P0014 hard fault came up almost immediately.

Once I got back home from the test drive, I applied 12V to the solenoid while the truck was running, and it made no difference with the engine, so now I need to figure out if it is a bad phaser (walker products 5951027), or a blocked oil passage. How would you guys suggest I troubleshoot from this point? I see that the phaser can be replaced somewhat easily with special tools to hold the timing chain. Do you think blowing air through the passage, either from the port at the VVT hole, or the camshaft hole would be a good way to see if there is blockage? Any info available on the actual routing of the oil passages?
Also, I should probably note, that I watched a video where someone demonstrated the phaser working by blowing air into the hole on the phaser, and watching it rotate. I tried this on my replacement phaser, and it didn't move. Technical support at Walker said that they are really stiff and I shouldn't worry about it. I thought that was a bit strange, but didn't worry too much, now I'm questioning it.
 

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OK on the engine compartment looking clean despite Indiana winters! Where in Indiana are you? I lived just inside Hancock County right over the Marion County (Indianapolis)-Hancock County line, just north of US 40 in the early 90s.

OK on the new VVT working as it should. As far as how to test for a blocked oil passage or a bad phaser, I am not sure. I'm going to ask one of the other resident gurus to pop in and shed some light since Ravalli Surfer has company for the next week or so. So be on the lookout for TJBaker joining in.
 

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process of elimination. check all the pesky wires and connections and double check them to eliminate all other possibilities. the light coming right back on or after a delay could be a clue. maybe tell you if its mechanical or electrical.
 

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Discussion Starter · #40 ·
OK on the engine compartment looking clean despite Indiana winters! Where in Indiana are you? I lived just inside Hancock County right over the Marion County (Indianapolis)-Hancock County line, just north of US 40 in the early 90s.

OK on the new VVT working as it should. As far as how to test for a blocked oil passage or a bad phaser, I am not sure. I'm going to ask one of the other resident gurus to pop in and shed some light since Ravalli Surfer has company for the next week or so. So be on the lookout for TJBaker joining in.
I'm just east of Elkhart, up against the Michigan state line. We get a lot of lake effect snow, a lot of salt on the roads. The frame members show some surface rust, the tailgate has just started bubling under the paint and rusting along the drip edge pretty badly, but only over the last year or two, but the engine bay has remained extremely clean considering. The truck has treated us well for many years and almost 250,000 miles on it, we are going to be moving to an Acadia or similar very soon, but I'm fixated on getting the P0014 fixed, just want the gas mileage back to normal. I'll keep it and use it as a toy hauler. Took it down to Alabama to pick up a boat, and was getting 8-9mpg with the VVT out of whack, haha, it cost a fortune in gas. Thanks, I would like to hear from someone on what to try next. I'm pretty confident that it's the phaser at this point.....
 
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