Blown Head gasket
My 03 TB over heated about 2 years ago due to a faulty radiator cap. It then over heated 4 times last year: twice in Nashville and twice in Atlanta. I replaced the thermostate and all was well. However, about 2 months ago I began noticing liquid dripping onto the garage floor. Was red in color and smelled like antifreeze. At first I did not think too much of it because it did not leak on a regular basis, and then it did. About two weeks ago I decided to track down the source.
I tracked it down to the head gasket. I was getting none of the signs of a blown head gasket (no water mixing with oil in engine or radiator). I pulled the heat shield and noticed some distinct burning on the exahaust manifold. I took a paper towel and rolled it up. I stuck one end between two of the pipes leading from the exhaust manifold and saw it "flapping." When I pulled it back, it was wet. I pulled the exhaust manifold to replace the gasket and noticed an area where liquid was leaking. I wiped the area down, cleaned the side of the engine, and the drip came back within seconds.
I determined the head gasket was blown even though I got none of the typical blown head gasket signs other than water leakage. I am not a mechanic by trade, but have had my fair share of engine rebuilds and head replacements and the such. I have done ALL my own automotive work since i was 15. The one time I allowed someone else do work for me, they messed up the job (I had to fix the repair).
Now that the background is finished, here is what I learned. If you have a blown head gasket, pay the bazillion dollars to have someone else do the work:duh:
I followed the haynes book to the T. However, I should have read it more closely to see how involved this process is. I have never, ever experienced head work that is this involved. Basically, I would have been better off pulling the engine and doing a rebuild. The hardest part of the whole process is getting the front cover off and having the J-44221 tool (keeps cam from rotating). The reason for this, is in order to get the front cover off, you MUST drop the oil pan. To get the oil pan off, you not only have to drop the "steering gear crossmemeber" but you must also drop the rack. Haynes tells you about the crossmember, but not the rack. Luckily, all you have to do is disconnect the line from the rack, pull the bolt from the short steering shaft, and pull the two mounting bolts from the frame to gear shaft. You can leave the rack attached to the knuckle on lower control arm. However, when pulling the pan, do not forget there are two bolts under the rubber fitting that is located between the bell housing and oil pan.
The other tough part is pulling the water pump. I attempted this following everything the Haynes dictated. I broke one strap wrench trying to remove the fan from the pump. In the end, I ended up pulling the radiator, the shroud, and the pump all at the same time.
I will be taking pics of the engine compartment and the underneath side and will post them. But do not attempt this job unless you have the time and several 10 millimeter sockets, along with a 15mm 13mm, and a 21 mm, along with a 10mm allen wrench. You will also need a LONG breaker bar. The short one comes in handy in some instances, but when pulling the head bolts and crank shaft pully, it is easier with a long breaker bar. Finally, most importantly, you need a good friend to help accomplish certain tasks.
Do not, I repeat, do not do the head gasket yourself unless you are a mechanic and have a shop. If you do tackle the job on your own, pull the engine and replace it. A local mechnic told me that the job I am doing would cost between $2,000 abd $3,000...one told me labor alone is about $1,200. So far, i have purchased $70 in tools (60 for the J-44221 tool). The gasket set will run me about $175 (could get it cheaper), shaving the head, inspection for cracks, and valve job will cost $225. I figure the job will cost me about $550 (includes replacing ALL the fluids) savings of $1,450...if I have I done everything correctly. :bonk: