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I'm looking at purchasing a 2004 Rainier Shortly. I'm definitely going to be doing something about the sound system. I'm currently looking at two Rainiers. One has factory Navigation with bose and the other has the standard CD player with bose. Here's the two scenarios that I think I'll be looking at:

1.) Keep the factory navigation and bypass the bose amp and speakers completely. I'd like to run two amps. One for my front and rear speakers and another for my subs (which I'd daisy chain off of my full range amp). What would I need for adapters to accomplish this? Loosing Onstar isn't a big deal, but I would like to keep the RSE and Rear DVD if at all possible, along with the chimes and power retention.

2.) Replace both the factory head unit and bypass the bose amps and speakers as above. How would I go about doing this and maintain all the above aforementioned features? Also are there adapters available to allow aftermarket speakers to fit in the stock speaker locations? I know the Bose speakers are nonstandard in size.

If I have to loose something it's not going to be a big deal, but I would like to retain as much as possible. I've been literally browsing the forum and using google for the last few days and I think all I have accomplished is confusing myself even more. This looks to be the place to ask for help regarding this situation so here I am. Any help or tips would be much appreciated. Thanks guys. :)
 

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2006 chevy
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Welcome


I'm looking at purchasing a 2004 Rainier Shortly. I'm definitely going to be doing something about the sound system. I'm currently looking at two Rainiers. One has factory Navigation with bose and the other has the standard CD player with bose. Here's the two scenarios that I think I'll be looking at:

1.) Keep the factory navigation and bypass the bose amp and speakers completely. I'd like to run two amps. One for my front and rear speakers and another for my subs (which I'd daisy chain off of my full range amp). What would I need for adapters to accomplish this? Loosing Onstar isn't a big deal, but I would like to keep the RSE and Rear DVD if at all possible, along with the chimes and power retention.
I went with the first options on my Old Rainier and my TBSS and I was very happy with it. I was able to keep my rear DVD and controls.

I used the PAC AOEM-24 for my Amp Preouts off my Factory NAV and those who have heard my system in my Rainier and My TBSS where impressed with the overall sound of the Factory Bose and Subwoofers..

Rainier Setup - 4 Kicker Comp 10" in Sealed Box

TBSS Setup - 1 10" MTX MXS1004
 

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2005 chevy trailblazer_lt
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Yeah, that's a good way for adding a sub/s.
That adapter you used only gives you 1 set of rca's doesn't it?
But he wants to add 2 amps. Presumably a 4 channel amp for the fronts and backs and a 1 channel for a sub. Thus 3 sets of RCA's
I don't know an easy way to do that while retaining chimes and onstar.

Here's a thread where I stated one screwed up way of doing it. There are probably other screwed up ways but I don't know of any unscrewed ways!!:crazy::(:bonk:

***oh and that's with an aftermarket radio - not as 'easy' with factory***
 

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Yeah, that's a good way for adding a sub/s.
That adapter you used only gives you 1 set of rca's doesn't it?
But he wants to add 2 amps. Presumably a 4 channel amp for the fronts and backs and a 1 channel for a sub. Thus 3 sets of RCA's
I don't know an easy way to do that while retaining chimes and onstar.

Here's a thread where I stated one screwed up way of doing it. There are probably other screwed up ways but I don't know of any unscrewed ways!!:crazy::(:bonk:

***oh and that's with an aftermarket radio - not as 'easy' with factory***
The new AOEM-24 now gives you front and rear outputs now.
 

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why couldn't you go from the pre-amp output on the monoblock to the 4-channel or vise versa so that way you only need one set of rca's? just an idea :m2:
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks for the link. That's definitely the way I'll go if I keep the stock navigation unit. My one remaining question is, do you have to keep the stock amplifier connected to allow this setup to work?

why couldn't you go from the pre-amp output on the monoblock to the 4-channel or vise versa so that way you only need one set of rca's? just an idea :m2:
I could do that definitely. The only time I would need a dedicated monoblock output was if I were to replace the stock head unit. I would then want a dedicated output so I could cut off the low end frequencies going to the full range speakers and be able to control the low end frequencies heading to the monoblock amp more effectively.

So I guess if I keep the factory head unit, I'm all set. But if I don't keep the factory head unit there's not much I can do as far as retaining onstar, the chimes, and the steering wheel controls?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I guess I'm going to go ahead and replace the factory head unit, along with bypassing the complete bose system. I have the bose in a 2004 Suburban 2500 that we have and I'm not at all happy with it. The system I have in my current buick Park Ave sounds so much better. All it is an infinity 4 way amp, a set of infinity 5 1/4 inch reference components in the front and a set of infinity reference 6x9s in the rear combined with 2 10" polk subs connected to a JL audio amp. Cost me around $1,100 altogether and beats the crap out of the premium bose $2000 audio package that is in my Suburban.

I'll proably be carrying over the polk and JL audio setup and the Infinity amp from my current setup and then I'll be trying to find some speakers that'll fit in and replace the bose speakers. As far as the head unit goes I'll probably go with a Pioneer Avic-z2 or z3.

I'm not even going to worry about the onstar (which I don't need nor want), and the rear seat audio controls. I couldn't care less about whether or not someone in the rear seat will be able to control the audio I suppose. Just as long as the DVD player (if the Rainier I get has one) works as a standalone unit it'll be fine.

If I can get the GMOS-04 from Metra to work the way this guy has gotten it to work I can retain the Onstar and chimes and whatnot though:

Installed first until between a Kenwood DNX8120 and my 2005 GMC Sierra with Bose and Onstar. Followed instructions down to the wire (pun intended). Adjusted gain but could not get rid of horrible distortion and popping. Turning gain down just made the popping not as bad, but reduced the volume of the music unacceptably low. Crutchfield sent me a new GMOS-04. It behaved exactly as the first. Manufacture dates for both units is 6/07.

To resolve my issue I bypassed the GMOS-04's RCA inputs. Basically my Kenwood's RCA outputs are now going straight to the truck's harness. WHAT A HUGE DIFFERENCE IN SOUND QUALITY AND VOLUME! It is like night and day. I feel bad for anyone who has installed this and now thinks that their new head unit or Bose system just aren't that great. This device robs the system of it's true potential in a very big way! For chime and Onstar I added an additional powered speaker (12 volt CB Speaker) to the front-left output of the GMOS-04 (white wires). If you have one of these, it is well worth the extra work and expense to take it out of the loop for audio!!!!
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_120GMOS04/GM-Factory-Integration-Adapter.html?tp=3486

What do you guys think?

Basically I would just be using the metra adapter to retain the onstar and chimes through the cb speaker. Other than that I would bypass it completely and send the audio outputs on the head unit directly to my aftermarket amps. I would then just disconnect the power to the bose amplifier to prevent it from turning on. All I would need to get is an adapter to allow for steering wheel controls to work. Doing it this way would allow for using only two adapters instead of three or four to keep all the systems. It would seem to me it'd cut down on costs too.
 

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So could I use that adapter on the back of my Bose 6 disc head unit to add an amp and subs to my trailblazer? I'de rather go that route if possible instead of using a line ouput converter on the speaker signal wires.
 
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