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2002 chevy trailblazer_ls
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Discussion Starter #1
I just had my fan clutch replaced this morning because it went bad. As I left the shop I kicked on the A/C and rolled up the windows. I immediately saw the RPm gauge jump to almost 0 RPM's, then it went back up to normal. I sat there for a bit and it continued to do this till I shut off the A/c. Now I'm beginning to think this has something to do with the fan clutch as I just had it replaced and it was working fine on the way over there. I drove it back into the lot and had them look at it again. They said it was at a .5 pound of freon and they filled it to 1.3 pounds of freon for me at no charge. They continued working on it for 3 hours and never came to a good solution. They said that only thing they could think of was that the fan clutch I gave them was faulty in some way. They said the fan clutch works in unison with the a/c clutch. When the A/C kicks on the fan clutch is supposed to speed up and make up for the lost power that the a/c clutch is taking. I was wondering, is this true, and is there any way of fixing it besides having to go get another fan clutch and paying another $250 to have a new one put in again? Please help me on this!:worried:
 

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Western Canada Chapter
2003
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I just had my fan clutch replaced this morning because it went bad. As I left the shop I kicked on the A/C and rolled up the windows. I immediately saw the RPm gauge jump to almost 0 RPM's, then it went back up to normal. I sat there for a bit and it continued to do this till I shut off the A/c. Now I'm beginning to think this has something to do with the fan clutch as I just had it replaced and it was working fine on the way over there. I drove it back into the lot and had them look at it again. They said it was at a .5 pound of freon and they filled it to 1.3 pounds of freon for me at no charge. They continued working on it for 3 hours and never came to a good solution. They said that only thing they could think of was that the fan clutch I gave them was faulty in some way. They said the fan clutch works in unison with the a/c clutch. When the A/C kicks on the fan clutch is supposed to speed up and make up for the lost power that the a/c clutch is taking. I was wondering, is this true, and is there any way of fixing it besides having to go get another fan clutch and paying another $250 to have a new one put in again? Please help me on this!:worried:
As it is an '02 there is probably a software update to help you out. When was the last time you cleaned your throttle body? Follow the how to and that should also help with the idle/AC problems. Do that first then think about the software update :undecided
 

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2002 chevy trailblazer_ls
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Discussion Starter #3
When was the last time you cleaned your throttle body? :undecided
I cleaned out my throttle body the beginning of last week. I changed the plugs and decided to clean it while I had it all apart!
 

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Western Canada Chapter
2003
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I cleaned out my throttle body the beginning of last week. I changed the plugs and decided to clean it while I had it all apart!
Probably have to try the dealer programming then :undecided Was it the new part number fan clutch from a reputable seller?
 

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Now I'm beginning to think this has something to do with the fan clutch as I just had it replaced and it was working fine on the way over there.
Just to clarify, immediately after the clutch was replaced, the drivers side a/c wouldn't blow cold, and it had erratic idle with the a/c on?

Does the drivers side blow cold since the charge?

They said the fan clutch works in unison with the a/c clutch. When the A/C kicks on the fan clutch is supposed to speed up and make up for the lost power that the a/c clutch is taking.
That is incorrect.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Just to clarify, immediately after the clutch was replaced, the drivers side a/c wouldn't blow cold, and it had erratic idle with the a/c on?

Does the drivers side blow cold since the charge?



That is incorrect.
Yes that is correct, immediately after the replacement of the fan clutch the a/c would not blow cold out of the driver side. And as soon as the a/c clutch kicks in the RPM's drop and then returns to normal.This happens every time the a/c clutch kicks in. If I turn the a/c off, I have no problems.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
And ,no, the a/c did not blow cold on drivers side after the charge.
 

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And ,no, the a/c did not blow cold on drivers side after the charge.
If it is only one side then an actuator has failed (common) or needs to be reset.

Did you follow all the instructions on the throttle body cleaning?

Is your cam position actuator leaking into the plug socket on the end?

Just throwing out some ideas :undecided
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Actuator may need to be reset. I drove 80 highway miles today and it started blowing cool air after about 5 miles, but the passenger side was throwing out ice. Not really but it was really cold on passenger side and driver side was just cool. Both sides were throwing the same amount of air from the vents just one was colder than the other. I bought the fan clutch at a Car Quest just south of San Antonio, they had the best price on it. The brand was Hayden, but when I opened the box it said Behr on it. The one that was previously on the truck was Behr too.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Anyone else having this problem?
 

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Sounds like to me they unhooked the battery to do the clutch install. That will cause the failure of the actuators. I would also think that would have also caused the idle issues as it has to relearn everything. When you cleaned the throttle body did you take it off and clean the backside?
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
Sounds like to me they unhooked the battery to do the clutch install. That will cause the failure of the actuators. I would also think that would have also caused the idle issues as it has to relearn everything. When you cleaned the throttle body did you take it off and clean the backside?
I cleaned as good as I could through the front side and will clean the back at a later date. Why would disconnecting the battery have anything to do with the actuators? I've changed the battery out a few times and have never had this happen. How does a truck relearn how to idle again as I'm open to suggestions so I can stop at a red light without stalling or having to turn the a/c off.
Also, I called up to the place where it was installed and they said they had to take apart almost the whole front end just to get the clutch out. I was thinking geez, I coulda done that by myself had I had the tools. Yes they did disconnect the battery to install clutch.
 

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Why would disconnecting the battery have anything to do with the actuators?
When you reconnect the battery, the hvac controller goes through a relearn and sweeps the actuators. The exact fault has been posted, I don't recall what it was.

How does a truck relearn how to idle again as I'm open to suggestions so I can stop at a red light without stalling or having to turn the a/c off.
If it were me, first thing would be that tbody would be removed/cleaned/installed and doing a pcm reset (battery disconnect) again.

Yes they did disconnect the battery to install clutch.
Darn.

Best thing to do is try to clean up that tbody and read up on replacing the actuator.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Darn.

Best thing to do is try to clean up that tbody and read up on replacing the actuator.[/QUOTE]

So is this something that would have been their fault? Should I raise hell and have them replace it? Or is this something that just happens and I have to get the part and replace it?:bonk:
 

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It just happens. Anytime you replace the battery or unhook it you run the risk of an actuator going bad. My understanding is they have to swing from one extreme to another to relearn where the stops are as it doesn't remember when it loses power. When this happens it will strip the teeth on the gears inside the actuator.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
It just happens. Anytime you replace the battery or unhook it you run the risk of an actuator going bad. My understanding is they have to swing from one extreme to another to relearn where the stops are as it doesn't remember when it loses power. When this happens it will strip the teeth on the gears inside the actuator.
I guess maybe it was bound to happen sooner or later. Maybe that explains the sound I hear whenever I have to unhook the battery and connect it again. Upon startup I hear click click click click. then a pause and then sounds like 2 click click clicks in a row.maybe the actuator gears were stuck. kinda sounds like an oscillating fan once you grab it and it's trying to turn. click click click click.
 

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I agree that the Blend door actuator is prob bad..
AC Delco part # 15-73597
GM# 89018677.

The Drivers Side is much easier to change out. The passenger side n the other hand is not so easy. Theres a good stick on how to change it.
 
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