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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
***** this was done in my silverado, so you will have to be creative in how you mount the compressor/install the tank ect******

I set up an onboard air system using a compressor that many in the offroad community have heard of....the tsunami MF-1050.

Here is a break down of the items I used and their costs.

MF-1050 compressor- $60 at pepboys
7 Gallon Air tank - about $20, I had one already and while its not the idea style tank it works for now
20' 3/8" Air Hose - $12
Miscellaneous Fittings - $10 plus those that I had in stock
1/8" Air Line to run gauge to cab - $5
Pressure Switch W/ Relay 85 psi on, 105 psi off. - $23
Switch to turn compressor on/off in cab - $2
Misc Electrical fittings - Had in stock so free.99
Misc nuts and bolts- also free.99


Total Cost - $132

The install

This is the pump



Rated at 150psi max, 2.5cfm @0psi 1.5cfm @90 psi 40 minute maximum run time, and it will auto shut off at that point due to heat.

it comes with a nice carry bag, power cord w/ built in battery clips (too powerful of a pump to plug into the cig lighter) has a waterproof on off switch, air hose, and spare 30 amp fuse.

The major problem with this pump is it uses an oddball fitting on the pump itself, luckily the hole that is threaded for that fitting is the perfect pilot size for a 1/4-18 npt tap. so take out the old fitting, tap it and install a standard fitting.

Now that that was out of the way it was time to hard mount it under the hood. Thankfully I have a great spot, the 2nd battery tray, unfortunately none of the bolts for that will line up w/ the base of the compressor (you have to remove the little rubber feet to access the holes) so you have to drill and use your own hardware.

here it is mounted



now to wire it in, this is pretty simple, just cut off the battery clamps, and put ring terminals on their and connect it to the battery. Fuse is already built into the power wires. Now once i get enough money to buy the pressure switch/relay combo, ill have to snip the harness, install the switch where the factory gauge goes on the pump (its not accurate, and ill have one on the tank so no use on having a gauge under the hood) I am told the hole for the gauge is standard 1/8" npt but we will see it may need to be tapped.

Now for the air hose

I ran that down along a wire harness that comes from the fuse box down along the frame, I ran the hose with zip ties along the top of the frame rail to protect it, and then up past the fuel fill neck and into the bed through the hole that is up under the bedrail,

you can kinda see in this pic how its routed near the bed



I still have to cut the hose to length but i didn't have any more compresson fittings like i tought i did.

On to the tank,

It is from walmart the 7 gal blue tank, it has a base on it w/ 2 mounting holes, I drilled 2 holes into the bed floor, ran 2 bolts up through them and put a nut on each to keep them from falling back through the bed floor, I then slid the tank on and 2 more nuts/lock washers hold it down.

I used a pair of T's on the top of the tank, one with a built in safety valve, installed the hose in one end of the 1st T, and another T in the second end, a gauge and a quick coupler are connected to the 2nd T. This gauge will be relocated into the cab once it cools off around here.

here it is mounted under the tool box




Results,

I have a awesome onboard air set up, that actually has decent power, The tank pumps up from 0-100 psi in about 2 1/2 mins, and the 85-105 psi that it will have to do with the pressure switch takes just over 1 mintue. I ran an air ratchet off of it for a little while and that seems to do okay, although thats not what I intend to use it for (air tools) but it works great for pumping up tires, and will be nice blowing off the truck after I wash it (in the mirrors and such where water always drips out)

any questions or suggestions just ask, ill update after I use it a bit, and install the pressure switch and in cab gauge and master power switch.
 

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2002 chevy trailblazer_lt
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Finally, someone else going the OBA route, even if it's a trailvoy cousin:woot:

Good job, looks nice and clean. Just curious, what's the max pressure that tank can hold? I've been meaning to post pics of my 'updated' setup, finally found a 5gl tank that could hold some pressure (150psi).:tiphat
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
150 psi i belive, maybe its 125, reguardless, i plan on running it on a 85/105 psi switch so that isn't a big issue, I want to be friendly to this compressor, and for my needs there is no reason to pump it up more than that. Recovery time will be a lot faster even though it may need to do it more often, That should keep the run time down on the pump, which in turn will keep the heat down on the pump.
 

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I'm assuming your compressor is the same as the superflow MV-50. That's the version I have. It looks very similar.

Do you get any reverse flow through the compressor itself? I've heard it's a good idea to install a check valve between the comressor and the tank to prevent that. The seals in the compressors aren't perfect.

Also, you may want to reroute your compressor intake into the engine's intake (after the filter) so you can eliminate one more maintenance part from your setup (because you will use the engine's already filtered air).
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
yes its the same thing just different stickers,

It holds the air fine, but once i can find a place that has a 1/4" check valve ill install one, id rather not have 105 psi sitting on the compressor at all times, although it prolly won't hurt it too much.

the reroute is a great idea, however, the air box is on the other side of the truck, id rather not add more hose in the engine bay, My plan was to get a small breather filter and run that into the fender of the truck, cooler air, and less crap.

keep the suggestions coming, ive heard from 3 outa the 4 big offroaders glad to see you guys are approving of this set up.
 

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Vartz, I ran across this and didn't remember you mentioning it... but you should make sure you throw a blow off valve in your setup to prevent over-pressurizing the tank and fittings. You need this especially without a pressure switch.
+1 !!!

Another goodie to have is an inline filter to reduce/eliminate water or other pesky particles. This not only helps your tank last longer (avoiding rust), but if you're using air tools, it should help keep them nice and healthy.

I stumbled across a decent looking craftsman filter system, but it's not working all that well. I think I may have too much PSI pushing through it, not sure yet :weird:
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
sorry forgot to mention it but the first T has the safety valve in it, pressure switch will be installed by the end of this coming week too. Can't wait to have this project wrapped up.
 

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Basic Vendor- Skid Plates
2007 chevy trailblazer_ls
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FWIW, I just picked up one of these compressors at Meijer for $60... Same deal, storage bag and all...

I've got to say that these things really crank out some air!! I let down and pumped back up one of the tires on the TB last night, and it happened surprisingly quick!

Mike
 

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They're pretty decent for sure. I'll eventually use mine in an OBA scenareo, but am a little worried about how long it will take it to air up the tank. I kinda feel like I need to build in some sort of duty cycle logic in the circuit.

Although, during TECORE, I was the only one with an appropriate pump. I think it aired up 18 tires from about 25psi to 40psi... granted it was pretty warm by that time, but it seemed to work great.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
just so you know it still is working like a champ, burnt my relay up though.

I have a 85/105 pressure switch on it, it takes exactly 1 min 2 seconds to fill from 85-105.
 
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