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2007 chevy trailblazer_ss_1ss
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Yeah I know but the guy must be confused or soemthing. And that 289 unit is hella hard to find...
I don't see how he could be getting sound out of it. The Bose radios output low-level signal just like an aftermarket radio does (just using regular wires instead of RCAs). If he is getting sound, there's no way it can be very loud or sound good. Yes, the non-Bose radio will be very hard to find used since there weren't very many people that would have spent the money for navigation and not the Bose as well. I used an aftermarket amp and speakers with my nav radio so I get the best of both worlds: stock looking dash without stupid dancing lights and a crappy fit and good sound quality. The Bose radios have very good low level outputs, I have no noise what-so-ever.
 

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2006 chevy
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492 Posts
found this on one of the gm trucks forms sites and wondering if the below would also apply to our TB?

OK, since the NON-BOSE seem to be much harder to find, is it possible to use a LUX or NON-LUX H/U and connect one of the PAC adapters or an Alpine Vehicle Hub to connect it to aftermarket amps?


yes. You can use a Bose NON-Lux nav unit and then hook up an aftermarket amp/speakers/subs to it with a PAC AOEM-GM24 adapter.

[quote/]
 

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2006 chevy
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492 Posts
found this on one of the gm trucks forum sites and wondering if the below would also apply to our TB?

OK, since the NON-BOSE seem to be much harder to find, is it possible to use a LUX or NON-LUX H/U and connect one of the PAC adapters or an Alpine Vehicle Hub to connect it to aftermarket amps?

yes. You can use a Bose NON-Lux nav unit and then hook up an aftermarket amp/speakers/subs to it with a PAC AOEM-GM24 adapter.
 

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2007 9_7x
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9 Posts
Just installed a non-lux nav radio in my 9-7x. Bought the 10355766 antenna on ebay for $37 shipped. Local Saab dealer charged me $47.50 to reprogram the radio to my vehicle and they even washed it on the way out. I sat in their service lounge drinking coffee and working via wifi for an hour waiting on it. I am a happy camper. :woot:
 

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2007 gmc envoy_denali
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15 Posts
Nav Black Screen Problem Issue

So I did some work on my engine last weekend and unhooked my battery. When I was done I hooked it back up and the Navigation was not working. I used it earlier in the day and it was working fine. Now the screen stays black. When I hit the power button the light behind the keys lights up. After a few seconds the back light will go away. The clock will show in the bottom right corner for the first few attempts when I hit the power button, but then after a few times it will no longer show. No matter what button I hit the screen stays black. There's no audio.

I was able to eject my Nav disk and insert it again hoping it would reset, no luck. I also checked the radio fuse under the rear seat, the fuse is fine. I have the rear DVD system and there is a movie currently in it. I tried to eject it and it said "Parental Control" on the screen, won't eject.

It's a 2007 Envoy Denali with Bose, Sat, and DVD entertainment system. I called the stealership and they want $100 just to look at it (then repair costs after that). Looking for help from anyone. Thanks!
 

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2007 gmc envoy_denali
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^^^ISSUE SOLVED...well sort of. I still don't know exactly what's wrong, but the dealership I bought the Voy from is able to get the Nav replaced at no cost to me. :eek: I know, you read that right...the dealership is taking care of it for $0. It's a Christmas miracle!
 

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2003 gmc envoy_slt_xl
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2003 gmc envoy xl bose amp

does anyone have or no where i can find the oem bose amp # 15112642, everything was stolen, insurance won't cover car was unlocked in back alley, just want radio to play, all the factory wiring plugs are intack.
 

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2006 chevy
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2007 gmc envoy_sle
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To Bose,Or Not To Bose

,07 GMC Envoy. Are all Bose equipped system mark on face of HU? I don't know if I have it. I hope not as I want to go all after market.:(
 

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2007 gmc envoy_denali
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36 Posts
Digging up an old one :)

I have an 07 Envoy Denali. My current radio has no BOSE markings on it, but when you turn it on it says BOSE on the display for a few seconds.
It is part number 15917881.

I'm assuming I want to replace it with a 158000000 Nav unit ?

What is this VSS wire I keep hearing of ?

Whats the part number of the antenna I need ?

Thanks guys.
 

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2009 saab 9_7x
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14 Posts
Moderators, please edit

Just discovered this thread, and the OP contains some serious errors. Here are some of them:

This is probably where it loses quality. The wires from the head unit probably pick up a lot of interference because GM doesn't think and they just bundle the thin wires right along side electrical wires etc...
Probably? NOT. Audio signals between units are usually shielded cable. They are in my truck. Also, most wiring in the car carries 12VDC or digital signals, nothing that emits strong enough "interference" signals.

The stronger the audio signal passing through the wires, the more suseptable the signal is too interference.
NO, he has it backwards. For a given amount of "interference", the stronger the signal, the higher the S/N (signal to noise ratio), i.e. the LESS susceptible the signal is to interference. That's why speaker wires aren't shielded, they carry high level signals.

At this point you can stop reading the rest of the post, because everything he says after that is based on the above false premise.

Moderators, please edit or remove that part of the post so people aren't misled. Feel free to verify with your favorite audio expert :)
 

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2006 gmc envoy_denali
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11 Posts
I've been searching for a few days now, and I can't seem to find a write up that has a very informative break down of the wiring changes needed to go from a NON-LUX Bose 6 disc to a LUX NAV unit.

I had an 07 Denali with the LUX system, and after running up the miles I sold it and found a 2006 Denali. I had no idea that the bose systems were so different until after I bought it! Never had the radio on during the test driving:suicide:

Anyone know where I can find a write up on the pin changes and the extra connector needed? I know I have to change the amp and HU
 

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Touch Screen

I have installed a factory radio in my 2004 ( late non Lux ) I am having a problem with the touch screen not responding, is this a common problem with these radios. I bought the radio as as really cheap so i'm not surprised if it is bad, was just wondering if this is a common problem or something that can be easily repaired?
 

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2002 chevy trailblazer_lt
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10 Posts
Following , i have an 02 just replaced speakers . now have to turn volume higher . Guess I need an amp also
 

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Now i finally found all of this info after weeks of searching, and i wanted to present this research to everyone: Hope this clears some things up...

Nav part numbers:

Newest revision LUX TNR (15800001)
Second Revision LUX TNR (15230099)
First Revision LUX TNR (10377531)

Newest revision NON-LUX TNR (15800000)
second Revision NON-LUX TNR (10379287)
First Revision NON-LUX TNR (10377287)
Alt. Revision NON-LUX TNR (15120706)

Newest Revision LUX INR (15204335)
First Revision LUX INR (5204334)
Newest Revision NON-LUX INR (15108241)

NON-BOSE TNR (trucks with UQ3/UQ5 non-Bose audio) (15811289)

LUX Amplifier numbers: (all are identical in function, they just have different part numbers)

15199992
15114445
15114454
15191601
15112662
15199884

Nav Antennas

First revision antenna (15207447)
Latest revision antenna (15135178)

LUX vs. NON-LUX
(Thanks to DURAtotheMAX from The Diesel Place)

Here is exactly how the NON-LUX and LUX amps differ and why the LUX amp sounds better than the premium amp. Sorry for my long
winded explanation...i sort of got carried away (this is the
explanation I sent to another guy that was interested in the lux amp
conversion too...except he did only the LUX amp...no TNR)!!!
So normally in an after market amp/speaker system, you have a head
unit (the radio), an amp, and speakers. The head unit sends a "low
level" signal to the amp. This low level signal varies in output
"slightly" as the volume knob is turned up or down. The amp takes this
signal and greatly amplifies it and sends the high-power, high level
signal to the speakers. When you turn up the volume knob, the "low
level" signal gets slightly more powerful and the amp then amplifies
this and you hear it as "louder sound". Follow me? If I get too
confusing at any point, just PM me or email me!! The amp also has an "amp turn
on" wire which is basically a power wire from the head unit so when
the head unit turns on, it tells the amp to turn on. Kinda like a
relay. The Bose "Premium" system works on this exact same principal.
We kinda refer to the Bose Premium amp/system as the "dumb amp",
because thats basically what it is. It sits there just like a fool and
just "makes louder" whatever is thrown at it. It does not know what it
is attached to and has no interaction with the car at all (you could
hook it up to a telephone for all it cares). This is probably where it
loses quality. The wires from the head unit probably pick up a lot of
interference because GM doesn't think and they just bundle the thin
wires right along side electrical wires etc... The stronger the audio
signal passing through the wires, the more suseptable the signal is too
interference. So, technically, the more you increase the volume, the
more interference the wires pick up. Also, you have to think about
that the "dumb" amp's "volume" (called 'gain') is always cranked to
the MAX, so when you vary the "output" from the radio, you can get a
full volume range from quiet to really loud. If the Dumb Amp's gain
was not turned up all the way, than the system would not go loud even
if you turned up the radio all the way. Follow me? Its like if you
have a water hose hooked up to a faucet and on the end of the hose you
have a variable water valve. Think of the faucet's knob as the volume
knob on the radio. And think of that valve on the end of the hose as
the "gain" control on the dumb amp. Now, if you only opened up the
valve on the end of the hose a little bit, not a lot of water will
come out no matter how wide open you turn the faucet's knob. SO... the
valve at the end of the hose has to be wide open all the time in order
for you to be able to control it (the volume/water flow) at the
faucet's (radio's) knob. This is a disadvantage because on cheaper
quality amplifiers (which the 'dumb amp' is), when the gain is cranked
up all the way, you introduce lots of distortion and quality loss even
tho the volume is not up all the way. That is why the 'dumb amp' does
not sound all that great (and like a Bose system should!!!

NOW... The lux amp works completely differently.
It is a "smart amp" in that is has a full on-board computer and DSP
(digital signal/sound processor). It is fully integrated with the
vehicle in that it communicates with everything in the vehicle over
the Class II data bus. (like a computer LAN) Now.. the head unit in
"LUX" vehicles sends a VERY low level constant signal to the amp that
does NOT change. Even when you turn the volume and play with the
fader/balance. The head unit does NOTHING to audio. It does not apply
bass or treble changes, it doesn't fade/balance it, nothing!! It just
sends a constant low level left and right (it doesn't send rear
signals) audio signal to the amp. The amp receives this and the amp's
DSP "optimizes" the sound to do whatever Bose does to it etc.. AND the
amp constantly talks to the head unit over the Class II data bus to
receive volume, fader, balance, bass, treble and mid-range
information. So, when you turn the volume knob up in a LUX vehicle,
you are not simply increasing the output of the low-level signal from
the head unit. You are sending a signal directly to the LUX amp that
says "hey turn up the volume a bit". And then the amp just increases
the output level to the speakers. Same thing with the fader, because
remember the head unit does not output separate "rear" channels. The
amp is smart enough to "make up" a rear channel (for the rear
speakers) based on the fader setting that the radio is sending it over
the Class II network. its really pretty cool how it all works! Same
thing with Bass and treble too. You press some buttons on the radio to
increase the bass and the radio says to the amp "hey, adjust your EQ
for some more bass". Running the LUX amp this way keeps the audio
signals coming from the radio at a constant low level so not a lot of
interference can come in from power wires running along side... Also,
think back to my "water faucet/hose" analogy. Its like instead of
keeping the end valve wide open and controlling flow with the faucet's
knob, you are doing the opposite. You are keeping the audio signal low
and constant while just controlling actual volume of the music with
the "gain" control on the LUX amp. AND thats why the LUX amp sounds
50 times better than the Premium, or DUMB amp!! Another nice thing
about the LUX amp is that it does not need an "amp turn on" wire or
anything because that is all done with Class II data. And you can
program a LUX amp for which vehicle it is in and it will alter the
sound processing sequences to make the sound perfect for the size
cabin it is in! (for example, it is going to have to be programmed
differently if it is in a huge cabin Escalade ESV versus a smaller
extended cab Sierra Denali (thats the only truck that gets a lux amp
from the factory...if you dont count the Escalade EXT as a truck)
I have a question I bought a GMT800 TNR, I out it in my 04 GMC Sierra and no volume, will the 15199992 amp work on a plug andnplay basis. I dont want to buy a aftermarket radio, I want to keep my truck as stock as possible.
 
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