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Discussion Starter #1
Hi
I do not have any brake lights on my 2002 envoy, The 3rd brake light is working I have checked the fuses and bulbs and they're good.
I'm starting to think it may be the brake switch
 

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It is my common belief that if the BOO (note 1) switch activates the CHMSL (note 2) it should activate the other brake lights too.

NOTES
1. Brake-On-Off​
2. Center, High Mounted Stop Light​
 

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2002 Pewter ls with automatic trans. 4x2, gray cloth interior.
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I do not have any brake lights on my 2002 envoy, The 3rd brake light is working I have checked the fuses and bulbs and they're good.
I recall a similar issue but with the rear running lights on the passenger side would not light up. Took me 2 days to figure out it was the fuse under the back seat even though I tested them 3 different times. It was fully broken after I pulled it out.

Heck i even replaced the brake switch and nope wasn't the issue

Not saying this is your fix but may be worth pulling the fuses.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Checked and the fuse was blown replaced with another one and blown again.
Im going yo replace the break sensor to see if that helps
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Ok so I figured it I had to go with a 30amp fuse for the led lights all is good
 

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I don't have a schematic here in front of me - but what Amperage fuse is called for?

If it was a 20A, and you shoved a 30A in place of it - you MIGHT screw up things that are better left unscrewed.
 

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2002 chevy trailblazer_lt
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Ok so I figured it I had to go with a 30amp fuse for the led lights all is good
Fuses are there to prevent overloading the wiring which if overloaded can then overheat, melt, short out and cause a fire. Putting a larger fuse in just serves to make firestarting easier.
 

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I forget the formula for it, but Voltage, Ergs, Dynamic Loads, Current Impression Factor and several other laws of thermodynamics --- doesn't 30A represent a 50% increase from 20A in current capacity?

Those poor #26AWG wires!

"Hey! I didn't know you had pink interior lights!" "Nah --- that's my wiring".
 

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2002 chevy trailblazer_ls
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Like the others have said. Do not put a 30amp in there unless there is supposed to be a 30amp. I know there are 3 fuses that are for the brakes, and one is a 30amp. I do not remember the fuse numbers though. I know this, because when replacing my high mount brake light I blew the fuses, and had to replace all 3 to get my brakes lights on again.
 

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2002 gmc envoy_slt
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Greetings,

You may also want to check the circuit boards that the 3 tail light bulbs plug into... they can go bad.

Good luck!
 

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Like LivNow said ---> those boards are truly a problem. I had one pin that had rusted off and stuck in the plug.

You could check the power going in by the approved method of "backstabbing" so you don't stretch the female parts from each wire and they were all OK.

The problem was that the pin broke off inside the plug itself and putting a new board in the fixture never worked right. If I had "frontstabbed" it, the problem would have been obvious if the test probe wouldn't go into the female part.
Ah well --- rules are good until they aren't.​

Just sayin' --- check those tiny pins on both sides --- and the receptacle.
 

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2002 gmc envoy_slt
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There was a "service" bulletin (should have been a recall) for the circuit boards on the rear brake lights going bad causing either the lights not to work at all or draw high current which eventually melted the assembly. I'd recommend replacing the circuit boards on both tail lights (you don't have to replace the entire light assembly).
 

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I cannot for the life of me understand how the circuit boards by themselves could draw any current because they only act as circuits, not actually consumptive of electricity.

If they were corrupted with reactive material ... road salts, water or spray for instance ... I can see corrosion that would be disruptive of electrical flow ... but as a short circuit ... it's not really imaginable by me.

The bulbs themselves ... can only draw the cumulative value of their coupled current ... and that would also be part of the whole circuit and it's collective draw as originally designed; so that's "out" of MY equation.

I therefore think any problems with that passive "circuit board" could only be subtractive of the current it could consume, not additive. If a person tried to argue the ability of the individual conductors inside the "circuit boards" to short out by themselves .. the only way that could happen is by a very violent physical intervention from a collision or by an angry ex-significant other with a hammer.

Better materials ... thicker contacts ... gold plating ... may be a gooder idea, but I don't see how any idea would keep a true "short circuit" from happen. Please make sure one understands what a "short" is .... it is NOT an open circuit, a resistive circuit, a broken circuit ... nor necessarily an arcing ciruit.

A short circuit involves sending electricity SOMEplace where it's not designed to go. Please tell me where or how that can happen in our innocuous "circuit boards".





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