New Code & Issues After Replacing the Secondary Air Injection System

811 Views 13 Replies 3 Participants Last post by chem_man, 10 mo ago

CML

Discussion Starter · 10 mo ago

08' TB - This past weekend, my guy & I replaced the 2ndary Air Injection Check Valve, Relay, Pump & a gas cap (he did the hard work & I did the research & handed tools & held the light). Engine light cleared & stayed off for 4 days. This morning I get an engine light but a different code P0014. I was already looking to clean out the resonator & do the Berryman's & go ahead & replace the VVT within the next week. Thing is, it didn't run rough or have idle issues in the very long time that the CEL was on, gas mileage was crap but it ran great & even better with that 2ndary air pump running in my opinion for the last 3 days. Back to this morning & the new code; now it's also rough idling, loping kind of. I went to order a Dorman VVT & I'm getting 2 different part no.s that fit, difference in description being "4.2L gh" & "4.2L lk" I reached out to the parts supplier but haven't heard back yet. Any input here is MOST appreciated.

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chem_man

· #2 · 10 mo ago

Welcome to the Forum!

What is the new code? Actually, what are all the codes you are seeing - current, pending and historical? Very important.

OK on the P0014. It could be a couple of different things like a fault in the wiring to the VVT solenoid, a dirty electrical connector at the VVT - unplug it, inspect and clean as necessary, the engine could be low on oil (the VVT operates using engine oil and oil pressure), the VVT itself could be bad, or, and let's hope this is not the case because it can be expensive, the timing chain jumped a tooth or two. Also, if you have recently changed oil and went to anything other than 5w30, or added something like STP or Lucas Oil Stabilizer, that could cause a P0014 and the problems you mention.

Here are a few links to a couple of great articles on VVTS and diagnosing the P0014 code:

Chevy Trailblazer P0014: Causes + How to Fix | Drivetrain Resource

P0014 is a relatively common trouble code for vehicles that have Variable Valve Timing (VVT). This includes the Chevy Trailblazer. VVT adjusts the position of the camshaft(s) to maximize the combustion efficiency of the motor. P0014 means that the camshaft position is too far advanced from where...

www.700r4transmissionhq.com

Part 1 -Camshaft Position Actuator Solenoid Tests (2002-2009 4.2L Chevrolet TrailBlazer)

Bench Testing The Camshaft Position Actuator Solenoid To Find Out If It's Bad Or Not. P0013, P0014, P0017. 2002, 2003, 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007, 2008, 2009 4.2L Chevrolet TrailBlazer And GMC Envoy

troubleshootmyvehicle.com

You can pull the VVT out and see if the metal screens are clogged with junk and attempt to clean them. Just be careful of any rubber O rings used to seal it.

There is only one choice for a VVT Solenoid - GM/ACDelco Part Number 12615873. However, that does not mean you can only use an ACDelco/GM VVT. I would use one of the following - ACDelco, GM Genuine, Delphi, Standard Motor Products (non T series), NAPA Echlin, or BWD (non P series).

NOTE - rockauto.com shows 2 part numbers for their VVT solenoid. One is for their Blue Streak Line and the other is for their TechSmart line. 99.9999% chance they are the same part based on some of their other parts and a telephone discussion I had with their Tech/Customer Support last fall. Go with their least expensive one,

Now which one to choose. Here is my criteria for quality parts from known quality manufacturers/suppliers - go with the least expensive one with the best/longest warranty.

Stay away from the parts that are priced in a manner that are too good to be true because they are likely junk!!!!

Good Luck!

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CML

Discussion Starter · #3 · 10 mo ago

Thank you! The codes before last weekend were P0411 for quite some time. I shamefully admit that I let that go on for months. Other than reduced gas mileage, there were no other symptoms. Once I finally got the time to research some, I changed out most of the components (all?) in the 2ndary air injection system (last weekend) & also the day before the repairs the gas cap code P0442. All of that seemed great after & I can hear that pump coming on on start up, codes haven't come back with reference to that.

Then Wednesday I get the P0014 code. In the research I had done before, I was already planning to tackle cleaning the throttle body better than what I did on the weekend & the resonator because there was a bit of oil or "choc milk" up in the resonator when we moved it around & the more I read on that, the more I decided it'd be a good idea to swap out that VVT. Then comes the code, so self fulfilling prophesy I guess

. This ol' gal has 212k on her & maintenance is good, but not great. The last few years I have been adding the Lucas high mileage stuff at oil changes on advice from a mechanic friend. She's a couple thousand under being due for an oil change but I was thinking I should go on & do that now as well.

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chem_man

· #4 · 10 mo ago

Thanks for the updated information. If you have some of the "choc milk" under you oil cap, then you need to replace the VVT as it has likely corroded internally. I'm not sure what brand of oil you use, but you might want to try another brand. Also, what area of the country are you in? I ask because some oils do not handle humidity as well as they should. Also, how many miles a week does your TB get driven.

Regarding the Lucas, high mileage stuff, not to say anything bad about your mechanic, but most Lucas products (except for their greases) are not really that effective nor worth their price (cumulative opinion from the Bob Is The Oil Guy Forum). If you need a little thicker motor oil, go with a high mileage oil (for example Valvoline High Mileage 5w30, or SuperTech 5w30 High Mileage). High mileage oils are generally formulated to be a little bit thicker than non-high mileage oils and they have a bit more seal conditioners to help minimize oil seeps and leaks.

Now, when you do whatever maintenance/repairs, DO NOT DISCONNECT THE BATTERY - REMOVE THE APPROPRIATE FUSE(S). Why? Because when you reconnect the battery, the HVAC actuators inside of the dash are commanded to run a recalibration procedure which stresses the old brittle plastic gears inside the actuators and the brittle plastic gears break and leaves you unable to control where the air comes out, or control the temperature of the air, etc. Replacing at least one of them literally requires the removal of the entire dash! So, if you ever need to actually disconnect the battery, such as in the case of needing to install a new battery, be sure and use some kind of Keep Memory Alive device to avoid the HVAC actuator recalibration routine.

OK, got the battery warning out of the way.

Good luck!

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CML

Discussion Starter · #5 · 10 mo ago

Weekly I'm running an average of 275 miles give or take. I live in the Triad area of NC, which is mid-state, not coast, not mountains. I know it's on a full synthetic for the last few years but have no idea the brand or if he's using high mileage. Thanks so much on the battery warning! I was wondering if it applied to the '08. I have had the "choc milk" under the cap about 4 years ago & had the mechanic do what he called a "desludge" on it & started putting the Lucas in it & no more under the cap. What's in the resonator is much thinner than that, doesn't smell of gas or anything. I do take it somewhere for the oil changes as stated, most other work I have to do myself due to finances.

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chem_man

· #6 · 10 mo ago

OK, 275 miles a week is pretty good - the engine should be getting up to temperature. My take on the choc milk under the oil cap is that the PCV system might be partially clogged (narrowed passages), so I suggest you clean the PCV system as demonstrated in this thread:

UPDATED: This is your PCV --- Treat it nicely and...

This is the compilation I promised youse guys ...... in ONE video

www.trailvoy.com

I kind of figure that you might have already read it because you mentioned the Berryman B-12. Living in the Triad area I bet means that you have some significant humidity most of the year. Definitely need to clean that PCV system. Glad to hear that the liquid stuff in the resonator does not smell like gas!!!!

OK on you doing most other work due to finances - been there and fully understand. I find that doing my own oil changes is relaxing and stress reducing as it allows me to see something good being done for the engine (and not to mention that i save a few extra $$ I can use for something else.

One thing you will need if you do not already have one is a decent code reader/live data scanner. If you have an android device, I can recommend a setup that won't cost an arm and a leg (just a finger or toe nail

). It is the same as the one I use and it is really powerful and flexible. Here is the link to the Bluetooth OBDII dongle:

Veepeak Mini Bluetooth OBD II Scanner for Android Only, Auto Check Engine Light Code Reader Car Diagnostic Scan Tool

Buy Veepeak Mini Bluetooth OBD II Scanner for Android Only, Auto Check Engine Light Code Reader Car Diagnostic Scan Tool at Amazon. Customer reviews and photos may be available to help you make the right purchase decision!

www.amazon.com

and for the application I use Torque Pro which costs $5.00 for a lifetime license to use. I'm able to monitor virtually every engine parameter, and I can save data for offline analysis. In fact, I usually have it plugged in and Torque Pro running whenever I am going to be driving for more than a few minutes.

Good Luck!

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CML

Discussion Starter · #7 · 10 mo ago

chem_man said:
OK, 275 miles a week is pretty good - the engine should be getting up to temperature. My take on the choc milk under the oil cap is that the PCV system might be partially clogged (narrowed passages), so I suggest you clean the PCV system as demonstrated in this thread:

UPDATED: This is your PCV --- Treat it nicely and...

This is the compilation I promised youse guys ...... in ONE video

www.trailvoy.com

I kind of figure that you might have already read it because you mentioned the Berryman B-12. Living in the Triad area I bet means that you have some significant humidity most of the year. Definitely need to clean that PCV system. Glad to hear that the liquid stuff in the resonator does not smell like gas!!!!

OK on you doing most other work due to finances - been there and fully understand. I find that doing my own oil changes is relaxing and stress reducing as it allows me to see something good being done for the engine (and not to mention that i save a few extra $$ I can use for something else.

One thing you will need if you do not already have one is a decent code reader/live data scanner. If you have an android device, I can recommend a setup that won't cost an arm and a leg (just a finger or toe nail ). It is the same as the one I use and it is really powerful and flexible. Here is the link to the Bluetooth OBDII dongle:

Veepeak Mini Bluetooth OBD II Scanner for Android Only, Auto Check Engine Light Code Reader Car Diagnostic Scan Tool

Buy Veepeak Mini Bluetooth OBD II Scanner for Android Only, Auto Check Engine Light Code Reader Car Diagnostic Scan Tool at Amazon. Customer reviews and photos may be available to help you make the right purchase decision!

www.amazon.com

and for the application I use Torque Pro which costs $5.00 for a lifetime license to use. I'm able to monitor virtually every engine parameter, and I can save data for offline analysis. In fact, I usually have it plugged in and Torque Pro running whenever I am going to be driving for more than a few minutes.

Good Luck!

Thank you! I had been reading & watching @Ravalli Surfer for a couple weeks, even before I realised I had the PCV issue! I'd love to keep this ol' gal going as many miles as I can, she's been good to me. I've never owned a new car in my life, but she was somewhat new when I got her. I have a Fixd brand code reader but your suggestion may offer more & I will definitely give it a look, as well as get a memory keeper for the battery changes. Appreciate you & this invaluable forum!

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chem_man

· #8 · 10 mo ago

You are quite welcome!

Fixd is a good starter tool, but as one's skills (and curiosity) builds, the needs for an advanced tool becomes necessary. Just let me know if you get Torque Pro because there are a few "hidden" options and the app does need to be set up. One nice thing about Torque Pro is that it can be set up for several vehicles by using profiles and each profile can be customized. I use Torque Pro on the 2004 TrailBlazer, a 2022 Silverado and a 1999 Buick Century, and each has their own Torque Pro profile.

Good Luck!

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CML

Discussion Starter · #9 · 10 mo ago

chem_man said:
You are quite welcome!

Fixd is a good starter tool, but as one's skills (and curiosity) builds, the needs for an advanced tool becomes necessary. Just let me know if you get Torque Pro because there are a few "hidden" options and the app does need to be set up. One nice thing about Torque Pro is that it can be set up for several vehicles by using profiles and each profile can be customized. I use Torque Pro on the 2004 TrailBlazer, a 2022 Silverado and a 1999 Buick Century, and each has their own Torque Pro profile.

Good Luck!

Update: We got the new VVT solenoid switched out - used a NAPA Echlin replacement
Went ahead & changed the spark plugs, they weren't ruined but also looked fairly black & carboned up
Cleaned the resonator out & the s hose & took a wire brush to the carbon in the little metal nipple hole on the top of the valves (sorry I don't have the proper nomenclature this morning)
Changed the oil to SuperTech Advanced with NO Lucas this time & put a bottle of B12 in the gas tank.

Was going to clean the MAF but my bf suggested to just replace it as it was looking a bit cruddy. I didn't agree on this one because I wasn't getting MAF codes but he's the one turning the wrenches. This proved to be much more challenging than it should have been because one of the 2 bolts holding it in had turned to partial rust & was rounded off. He's pretty resourceful though & took a dremel & gave that bolt a slot for a straight head screwdriver.

Car is running really smooth with no lights or codes so far. It acted crazy for a little bit when we first started it up after the work. Idling erratic & throttling up randomly. I assume it was going through idle relearn. It's been great all this week.

The unfortunate/fortunate bit is we discovered what looks to be a pretty bad power steering leak when we were working on it. Drivers side probably a line leak. Hard to tell until I get the area cleaned up some as it's covered. No symptoms of a fluid leak but the reservoir was empty. No noise, nothing.

Haven't been able to start the PCV cleanout with the Berryman's yet because I couldn't get that hose off. I got a cable wrench & hope to have it off this evening.

Thanks again for all the great information!

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chem_man

· #10 · 10 mo ago

Thank you for the update! Glad to hear that the engine is running as it should.

Regarding the power steering leak, 2 places to check. 1, the power steering cooler which is under the radiator support on the driver's side (they are known to rust and leak), and 2, on top of the strut tower on the driver's side. If the steel lines are rusty on the strut tower (and you might need to remove the bracket holding the rubber insulator in order to fully inspect) and they look a little wet, you need to replace both the pressure and return lines.

It is not a fun task and shops get upwards of $500 - $1000 because of the labor involved in removing and replacing the lines (on the order of 5+ hours). I did it over a couple of days a few years back. I have a fairly decent set of special tools and it was still a royal pain in the @$$ to do. I also went ahead and replaced the power steering cooler and the power steering return hose while I was at it.

I used Gates power steering hoses for the repair, but I have been reading on another forum that Sunsong power steering lines and hoses are also very good and are actually better than Gates when it comes to matching the bends and curves of the OEM lines and hoses. In one case, a gentleman returned the Gates hoses because they would not line up properly and instead used Sunsong hoses with zero problems.

Do not attempt to patch the power steering pressure hose. I tried using bulk power steering hose and several hose clamps, and while on my test drive, the hose came off (and bent the steel line really good as well) and I had to get towed home.

Good Luck!

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metalmike187

· #11 · 10 mo ago

YouTube Academy is a great place for video resources, especially for our Trailblazers. The Daninator channel is great for a lot of DIY stuff. I linked a video below where he replaced the power steering lines. A bear of a job, but doable.

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CML

Discussion Starter · #12 · 10 mo ago

metalmike187 said:
YouTube Academy is a great place for video resources, especially for our Trailblazers. The Daninator channel is great for a lot of DIY stuff. I linked a video below where he replaced the power steering lines. A bear of a job, but doable.

Yes. I've watched a lot of Daninator vids & Mayo & others. Really helped me feeling more confident about tackling these things

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CML

Discussion Starter · #13 · 10 mo ago

chem_man said:
Thank you for the update! Glad to hear that the engine is running as it should.

Regarding the power steering leak, 2 places to check. 1, the power steering cooler which is under the radiator support on the driver's side (they are known to rust and leak), and 2, on top of the strut tower on the driver's side. If the steel lines are rusty on the strut tower (and you might need to remove the bracket holding the rubber insulator in order to fully inspect) and they look a little wet, you need to replace both the pressure and return lines.

It is not a fun task and shops get upwards of $500 - $1000 because of the labor involved in removing and replacing the lines (on the order of 5+ hours). I did it over a couple of days a few years back. I have a fairly decent set of special tools and it was still a royal pain in the @$$ to do. I also went ahead and replaced the power steering cooler and the power steering return hose while I was at it.

I used Gates power steering hoses for the repair, but I have been reading on another forum that Sunsong power steering lines and hoses are also very good and are actually better than Gates when it comes to matching the bends and curves of the OEM lines and hoses. In one case, a gentleman returned the Gates hoses because they would not line up properly and instead used Sunsong hoses with zero problems.

Do not attempt to patch the power steering pressure hose. I tried using bulk power steering hose and several hose clamps, and while on my test drive, the hose came off (and bent the steel line really good as well) and I had to get towed home.

Good Luck!

Thanks for the parts suggestion! It does NOT look like a fun time, but also doesn't look impossible. Gonna need to be done one way or another.

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chem_man

· #14 · 10 mo ago

That's the attitude! Now as Larry the Cable Guy would say..."Git 'er done!

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