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Of course you can test these two, power and ground with your multimeter at the coil(s) and not have to get under the truck right off!
 

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The pink wires should show 12 volts positive dc power all the time with the key in the run and/or start position.

Likewise the black ground wires need to be ground at ALL times regardless of key position.
 

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Discussion Starter #29
The pink wires should show 12 volts positive dc power all the time with the key in the run and/or start position.

Likewise the black ground wires need to be ground at ALL times regardless of key position.
Thanks...I'll check them tomorrow. Hope you're still available lol
 

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Discussion Starter #33
have 12v and ground to every coil. Pulled them all out and pulled plugs out.
Plugs don't look very good to me... They look oily in the pic, but they're just black. Like they're burnt up
so I checked the coils for continuity with my multimeter... I tested ohms from each of the 3 prongs to the brass plate on the coil. Here are the results:
Coil 1- 67.8/12/97.6
Coil 2- No reading/No reading/86.8
Coil 3- 68.6/12.3/60.1
Coil 4- 101.3/10.8/56.8 (newer coil)
Coil 5- 68.4/12.1/80.1
Coil 6- 69.0/12.0/66.1

I believe the second one may be my problem. I'm getting no reading at all.
 

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New plugs is not a bad idea, but I just find it unlikely that it would not at least sputter or try to start.
 

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I tested a spare used coil myself last night. I dont think I had any reading from the finned top plate to anywhere! I tested between terminals, including the sparkplug terminal. I noted the resistances were different depending on red vs black test lead orientation also.

I will have another look when I get home in half hour or so.

Still,,, it seems to me like you would have some action at cranking even if a coil or two were bad.
 

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Discussion Starter #36
I tested a spare used coil myself last night. I dont think I had any reading from the finned top plate to anywhere! I tested between terminals, including the sparkplug terminal. I noted the resistances were different depending on red vs black test lead orientation also.

I will have another look when I get home in half hour or so.

Still,,, it seems to me like you would have some action at cranking even if a coil or two were bad.
I would think so, too
 

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I dont think I had any reading from the finned top plate to anywhere!
I misremembered this. I had tested to the stanchion of the hold down bolt and found that isolated. I do indeed show that the finned top on my used coil has continuity to the ground terminal C as well as the mostly cylindrical metal plate around the coil electrics.
 

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Discussion Starter #38
I misremembered this. I had tested to the stanchion of the hold down bolt and found that isolated. I do indeed show that the finned top on my used coil has continuity to the ground terminal C as well as the mostly cylindrical metal plate around the coil electrics.
I'm going to test resistance on each plug. Gaps seem to be right on all of them. It appears that I should have 5,000ohm from terminal to center electrode. I want to rule out bad plugs before I buy another coil pack....I still feel like it would at least attempt to start, maybe even run with a miss, with one bad coil. The others all seemed to read pretty similarly.

After testing resistance, I believe I'll hook them up to a coil and test them for spark.
 

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Discussion Starter #39
I'm going to test resistance on each plug. Gaps seem to be right on all of them. It appears that I should have 5,000ohm from terminal to center electrode. I want to rule out bad plugs before I buy another coil pack....I still feel like it would at least attempt to start, maybe even run with a miss, with one bad coil. The others all seemed to read pretty similarly.

After testing resistance, I believe I'll hook them up to a coil and test them for spark.
Am i correct that the ignition module is built into the throttle body? I think i read that somewhere and I can't find anything otherwise online about where it may be
 
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