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2006 chevy
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Discussion Starter #1
2 issues - first: (42k miles) I have a grinding noise when turning right (above 15 mph) when putting weight on that side, there steering wheel shakes violently yet doesn't happen when turning left. It started before i put new Hankook 275's on it and has either gotten worse and/or is amplified by the larger contact patch. Either-way i took it up the road (non-dealer - BP procare chain) and they say its both front hubs that need to be replaced and they are $360 each and 2.5 hours of labor for a total of $920 or so. My question - can they not repack bearings and is this necessary a quick wear item (are they taking me for a ride?). Question 2 i am searching for my third-party extended warranty do you guys think it would be covered? i am still searching for the paperwork i cant for the life of me remember the name. Thanks guys and gals all 4 tires are off the vehicle and its taking up one of their bays so they are awaiting and answer...:hail:
 

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2006 chevy trailblazer_lt
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First, the problem should be covered by an extended warranty.

Second, if you are turning right, you are putting weight/stress on the LEFT side, not the right.

Third, typically a bad hub bearing produces a whine or a squeal that increases in pitch with speed, not a grinding.

Fourth, those prices seem very high. You can buy a quality replacement hub bearing assembly for $175-$225 or thereabouts. You can get cheap ones for under $100, but I don't recommend them.

Fifth, you cannot repack the bearings. They are factory sealed and not serviceable.

Hope this helps.

Let us know what you do/find.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks Mark... That is really good info, let me give you (everybody) some more background on a really crappy deal that i just found out about. Please keep in mind I am really P1$$ED right now and this may be some "stram of consciousness" rambling about to happen.

Long story short i cant find my extended warranty paperwork (my 10 month old was asleep in our office in his crib right next to my filing cabinet). I know for a fact that Diamond Chevrolet in Charlotte, NC (off of South Blvd) went out of business suddenly. I don't work at the same place as I did when I bought it so I don't take it to the new Steve Moore Chevrolet in its place since its 40 minutes away from my house and new job.

I called the very helpful finance Mgr at the new Steve Moore Chevy and that is when I got some really bad news. Between march 2006 and august 2006 (bought mine apparently on July 5th 2006) the Diamond Chevy management stole the extended warrantees from all people who purchased vehicles between this time and NEVER TURNED THEM INTO ADVANTAGE WESTERN! My 2k for the 6 year premium 75k mile extended warranty DOES NOT EXIST!!!

Yup, so the finance mgr remembers me because he BOUGHT HIS 2006 Cobalt SS (supercharged) on the same day after he finished with my paperwork. He spoke to the service mgr and told me to get the vehicle from BP procare, pay whatever their fee is to "look at a vehicle" (only $14.99 special summer inspection deal) and bring it to them. They should be able to get GM to pay for all or get me a good break and pay MUCH less than BP could come up with. I called GMAC (the loan owners) who apparently could care less that the loan on this vehicle is for 2k more for absolutely NO extended warranty. Not sure what to do with that. I expect as nice as Brian the finance mgr at Steeve Moore was that he may have more info for me too. Sorry for the length I needed to vent...

More info on how my day has gone:

1. Woke up and my right foot is having an arthritic attack so I am in a special boot (I work at the Orthopaedic specialists Dr office I have one left over and started some anti-inflamatory pills).

2. the local police just left my house earlier this morning because 2 fraudulent charges appeared under my wifes debit card (which is still in her wallet still) $100 online payment to Sprint (we have verizon wireless) and a local $16 charge for a call-in pizza order.

3. I had to take a PTO day from work.

4. I paid $400 for a new steering pump and broken pulley for wife's old car the 2001 Durango so we can sell it.

5. re-iterating the fact that I have no extended warranty right now on my ride that has 53k moles on it apparently

geez i'm really sorry I will stop though more items to list. Had to wait until the little one woke up so the family can drop me off at my ride and take it across town to the dealership.
 

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2006 chevy trailblazer_lt
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Some glasses are half full. Others are half empty.

Look at it this way. Your truck will either be covered by GM, or you will get the work done for a much better price than BP was prepared to charge. You could have been out the cost of the entire repair.

Further, you are likely to have fixed only that which is broken, not "good parts".

In addition, you came to this forum for emergency help, and in less than half an hour you had it. It hardly gets much better than that. :)

I know it's hard, but try to look on the bright side. After all, there's absolutely nothing you can do about the dark side, other than go to the local prosecutor and file criminal charges against the blankety-blank who "stole" your money. You may not get anything other than the satisfaction of seeing someone go to jail, but that alone should be worth a lot.

Along those lines, you ought to check whether your warranty paperwork was actually turned in, but just not paid for, or whether it was never forwarded. If the paperwork went in, you might still have a warranty, and the warranty company would have a claim against the now defunct dealership for the premium. It might be worth consulting with a local attorney if you find that the paperwork was turned in!

Just my :m2:.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I do appreciate your quick response :thx

GM calls it a wear item so they will not cover it. The dealership did not offer anything better since their version of "with a discount" and "let's help him out" it is actually more expensive than Procare (maybe better parts though) since the price will be $640 for one hub instead of $900 for both front as through Procare. The Dealer part is $460 by itself.

I did find the paperwork, it shows where it was $1800 for the Premier 72 month 75k mile warranty. But when i called Western Diversity they have no record of ever receiving the extended warranty paperwork and under my policy number they say its under a different persons name and vehicle. Unfortuanately the group that I would need to talk to had already left for the day and I will need to call back on Monday. So the TBSS is at the dealership with one wheel off waiting for verification that the part is covered and that the warranty will pay with my $100 deductible. Now we wait!
 

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Sorry to hear of your troubles. Hopefully, the extended warranty issue will be resolved and it will be covered. I had an extended warranty on a Dodge 4x4 sometime ago and it covered a failed hub. Good luck.
 

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Well, at those prices I wouldn't have the dealer do it if I had to pay for it.

Find a local mechanic close to you and have him do it.

Or, if you have a friend or acquaintance who feels capable, pay him $100 to do it in your or his driveway. If you know what you are doing, they are not that hard to change. About an hour I'd say. You can buy the part at Rockauto.com and get a Timken bearing for about $175, or an AC Delco for about $225 last I looked several months ago. You can also try mibearing.com for a USA made bearing at a reasonable price.

Wear item! Well, they do wear out, but they shouldn't wear out that soon. One guy on this forum says figure on 80k from them, but my belief/experience is that you should expect anywhere from 100k to 150k, and anything sooner is nothing more than a bad part.

Finally, if you are careful, and don't do any highway/high speed driving, you should be able to ride on the bearing for a while. I drove on mine for a few thousand, but it was only singing, not grinding.
 

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2008 chevy
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As far as I know the hubs aren't really that hard to replace. Remove wheel, unbolt caliper, dust shield, unplug abs wire, 3 bolts on backside hold wheel bearing to spindle. You shouldn't have to remove any struts or a-arms. On 2WD there is a giant bolt that looks like it is FWD, I don't have my service manual with me now, but you might not have to mess with taking that off.
 
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