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2005 chevy trailblazer_lt
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Discussion Starter #1
Lets start with running the wire from the battery. Maybe 8 gauge is enough, I used 4 gauge.
You’ll need an adapter (car parts or stereo shop) to hook up to.
Before

After

Then to a fuse holder.

To get the wire inside the truck, I went inside with a screwdriver and poked a hole through the trucks wiring harness boot, then when I fished the wire through – it was pretty tight – but I’ll probably silicone it too.

Lift the plates off at the front and back door sills and run the wire back to in under the back seat – then put a slice in the carpet and fish it to another slice where your amp is.





Now to the factory amp. Remove the passenger side rear plastic pieces. I don’t have pictures of that, just do it! If there isn’t a visible screw (one large torx for the seatbelt, a phillips partway back and a knob at the rear hatch), it’s just snap connectors – just pull them off.

The rear speaker wires are the lower plug. (for my 05 TB)
Brown – left rear+
Yellow – left rear-
Dark Blue – right rear+
Light Blue – right rear-

Tap into the wire by stripping a section of insulation off. Here’s the dark blue.

Solder and tape the connections. You can see I also tapped into the top plugs pink wire – it’s the remote turn-on wire for the amp.



Then run the speaker wires (the ones you just tapped into at the factory amp) to the amp you’re installing. My Rockford amp has hook-up for speaker level input so I’m using that (at least until I replace the head unit!) - (if you’re using a line-out-converter you’d wire it in somewhere between here and there). I ran them front and underneath the rear seat and with another slice’n fish under the carpet to the amp.

Then run your speaker wires (from your new amp) to your speakers.
You probably have to write the rest yourself – but I’ll show you what I did!
I ran them back under the carpet and up the corner post.



and a short one to my sub (everything REALLY needs cleaned up – oh well!)

Looking back.

Rock on!:D
 

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2003 chevy trailblazer_lt_ext
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Right on!! That's way better than my amp installation how-to :yes::yes:
 

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2003 chevy trailblazer_ls
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Looks good. I bet the sound is alot better back there, these trucks don't have that great of sound for rear passengers. By the way how deep iss that back pillar? I've been thinking of putting some 3.5" flush in that area:confused:
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
EDIT
I'm not sure why I can edit this post but not the original but, I wanted to add;
A note on the install. The ground wire is just as important as the power wire. The best thing to do would be - drill a hole through the floor and ground it right to the frame. Don't just use any bolt to attach it. I looked at the seats and some bolts, you would have to count on;
1. you wire brushing the paint off and making a good connection.
2. that bracket goes to another bracket - through a hinge that you're counting on for a great connection (unlikely)
3. that bracket actually is bolted to another bracket - both painted and hindering a ground.
4. that last painted bracket is bolted to your painted floor which is attached by body mounts.
Yeah - it might be OK, but if there's problems, is it any wonder!


Looks good. I bet the sound is alot better back there, these trucks don't have that great of sound for rear passengers. By the way how deep iss that back pillar? I've been thinking of putting some 3.5" flush in that area:confused:
Thanks

Yeah, it sounds a lot better but the thump isn't quite what it should be. It's the same amp and sub from my last blazer but I had an after market head unit with 2 sets of RCA's - one for the rear speakers and one set specifically for a sub. I'm wondering if the factory HU is sending the full spectrum of sound to the rear speakers or if it is eliminating some of the lows. My amp has settings for front and rear - HP(high pass), AP(all pass), and LP(low pass). I have the 6 1/2's set at AP and the sub at LP. More tinkering needed!

As for room in the rear pillars, There's not much room between the plastic and metal - just guessing 1/2" - 1 inch. There's a (guessing) 2" x 4" slot in the metal at about the right height that could be enlarged if needed I suppose. Open your back hatch and grab the top plastic panel on the drivers side at the top rear - give it a tug toward the passenger side - there's 2 or 3 clips that'll let loose 'n ya can peek in there!
 

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*Tip for everyone*

Careful how you run the wires behind the seats folding hardware ... there's a lot of moving parts there and a friend who put my seat up kinked an RCA when I installing the headunit
 

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*Tip for everyone*

Careful how you run the wires behind the seats folding hardware ... there's a lot of moving parts there and a friend who put my seat up kinked an RCA when I installing the headunit
When putting under the seat there is enough room to get them above the frame like I did
 

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*Tip for everyone*

Careful how you run the wires behind the seats folding hardware ... there's a lot of moving parts there and a friend who put my seat up kinked an RCA when I installing the headunit
Ya, Best Buy decided to put the RCA cable right in the way of the folding seats for me so my cable got kinked and eventually broke.
 

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I couldn't figure things out until I saw your pixs with the amp in the back! I have an 02Envoy and everythings pretty much the same except the remote turn on(no pink?). Do you know of any website that would tell me which one is the remote for my car?:confused:
 

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I couldn't figure things out until I saw your pixs with the amp in the back! I have an 02Envoy and everythings pretty much the same except the remote turn on(no pink?). Do you know of any website that would tell me which one is the remote for my car?:confused:
You can use any fuse that turns on when the car key is in the on position. Just pick one of these "add a circuit" at walmart or something and use it as a remote

 

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Discussion Starter #12
I really should have saved a link to where I got my wiring diagram, it lists all the radio, amp, and rear control wires on a schematic. I printed what I needed but don't remember where from.

So you have an amp in the back but no pink wire? The earlier ones (02 -04?) had a different amp than mine.
If you look here, at the resource section, it doesn't list an amp turn on wire for your year.

You can just do as ieatglue said - I didn't look in the rear fuse box - I'm not sure which fuse you'd use to retain power after key off (RAP).

On mine, the orange wire at the amp is always hot - I'd check yours - maybe yours works with the radio.?:undecided

Good luck.
 

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2003 chevy trailblazer_ls_ext
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How can i add a switched circuit through mid car fuse box.

i can't get under the fuse box fuse panel.
i opened the external cover.
i fingered the port and starboard releases and removed the internal cover.
i unscrewed the three entended screws.
NOW I AM STUCK. I can't get under to add a new circuit.

I have a boat trailer with mechanical surge brakes. They engage when I go in reverse. I'd like to add a switch for the surge brake selenoid on the trailer, but I can't seem to get through the fuse box to add a switched fuse.

I do have the OEM manuals, but they suck.

Any advise ?
 

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anyone ever figure out what to do about the no pink wire?
well I just removed that panel, there isnt even a speaker module box at all.
Freaking A'
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Well, I've been wanting to change my post a little but you can't edit later on.

I'm fairly sure that the reason I wasn't real happy with my original set-up is because most posts tell you to tap into the rear speakers. That may be fine for the non bose, but not for the bose premium.
If you have the 6 speaker system (code UQA in the glove box), this is what I've gathered to be correct (if not, please show me the light!!);
The rear door speakers are mostly mids.
The front door speakers have the lows. (as low as the bose puts out)
The dash speakers are the tweets. (so to speak)
So if tapping into the wiring at the amp for a sub, tap into the front, not the rear.
Front Speakers;
left+ = Tan
left- = Gray
right+ = Lt Green
right- = Dk Green

Hopefully nobody was misled and everyone in the future reads this far!

EDIT - Oh and me not being happy at first may have been a good thing! Things aren't like they used to be. An additional amp, new sub, and new speakers. :) I'l have to post some new pics.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
i wired my power wire to tha amp using my fuse box under the back seats
So have others but, it's not recommended. GM ran a wire back there (smaller than most of us run to our amps) to power the factory items. Wires not cheap and they're not going to run a bigger wire than they think it needs - thus you shouldn't pull a large load from there.
As I said, it works - but you can drive with three lugs on your wheel too!! (not recommended either!!)
 

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All Done with install

Great info i followed it this weekend and finished my install. I went with a 1200 watt Hifonics brutus amp and a 12" Hifonics atlas woofer. The only problem i ran into was my amp did not come with an adaptor for hook up with the speaker wires as stated in the instructiuons above. A quick run to the stereo store and all was fixed. I ended up getting an adaptor that ties into the speakers coming off the factory amp and the output from the adaptor is rca cords, easy way to be able to use any amp. I paid 40 for my adaptor but a cheaper version is available. I unfortunately did not read the whole thread and i tied into the rear speakers, however i have no complaints the sound is great. For an answer to a previous post about not having the pink wire for your remote wire to tie into, you can use one of the fuses that is in your fuse box. I believe it is a blue fuse. There is another thread floating around that shows this way to do it also. I howver did not run my power cord all the way to the battery i used the positive post in the fuse box. No problems yet but i will be changing it soon as i am adding a gel cell batt and a capp to limit any power need problems. I also ran 2 guage wire for both positive and for ground i wanted to make sure there was no restrictions on the amount of power i need, however it still makes the lights dim when it draws power, thus the instal of a secondary battery and capp. It was an easy install after following the directions only about an hour. Thanks for the great pics and instructions.:thumbsup:
 
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