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2002 chevy trailblazer_lt
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Towing question

I have a 2002 TB 4X4 with the 4.2 I6. Im going to be going from washington state to anchorage alaska, i have the stock tow package that came with the TB, im going to be pulling a 1800 pound trailor and i plan to be only towing around 3000-3500 pounds. there will be alot of mountain driving, its about 2400 miles total. Do i need a transmission cooler? and if i do is it simple to install? the local uhaul has one for only 46 dollars, does it really matter what kind i get as long as its a cooler?
im new here so thanks for helping,

TWP

P.S how the heck do i post in the forums i cant figure it out for the life of me. again thankyou.
 

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2006 gmc envoy_denali
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I have a 2002 TB 4X4 with the 4.2 I6. Im going to be going from washington state to anchorage alaska, i have the stock tow package that came with the TB, im going to be pulling a 1800 pound trailor and i plan to be only towing around 3000-3500 pounds. there will be alot of mountain driving, its about 2400 miles total. Do i need a transmission cooler? and if i do is it simple to install? the local uhaul has one for only 46 dollars, does it really matter what kind i get as long as its a cooler?
im new here so thanks for helping,

TWP

P.S how the heck do i post in the forums i cant figure it out for the life of me. again thankyou.
Heat kills transmissions http://www.txchange.com/heatchrt.htm. Do you need one, only if your transmission generates heat (the harder they work the more heat they make). Does it matter which one i buy, Well there are actually 2 questions here I can see. #1 could be what size do I need and #2 is what Brand. Question # 1 could be answered by the larger the cooler you buy with in reason will keep your tranny oil the higher the outside air temp goes, so the bigger the better within reason. #2 is probably best answered by you usually get what you pay for, again up to a point.

Hope this answers some of your questions.
 

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2003 chevy trailblazer_ls
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Better question is have you changed the transfer case fluid every 50K as required? Have you changed the ATF @ 100k as required? and hopefully upgraded to Dex-VI ? Have you changed the Dex-cool @ 5years or 100K miles as required? Have you changed the front and rear diff. fluids as well? You are going to take a lot of weight for a long trip and everything should be in the best condition to avoid problems. And to answer your question is yes you should get the largest cooler you can afford to save the tranny.
 

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2006 gmc envoy_denali
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Better question is have you changed the transfer case fluid every 50K as required? Have you changed the ATF @ 100k as required? and hopefully upgraded to Dex-VI ? Have you changed the Dex-cool @ 5years or 100K miles as required? Have you changed the front and rear diff. fluids as well? You are going to take a lot of weight for a long trip and everything should be in the best condition to avoid problems. And to answer your question is yes you should get the largest cooler you can afford to save the tranny.
Robert1101 is absolutely right, I just assumed that when you install a tranny cooler you change the tranny fluid at the same time. Use good quality tranny fluid such as the Dex-VI or Amsoil, Royal Purple or whatever you like. Also not a bad idea to change the filter in the tranny pan and add a drain plug for future drains.
 

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2003 chevy trailblazer_ls
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Hi !!! I have the same set-up but I have a little leak at one compression ring and I've tryed to tighten it more but I'm affraid to break the nut that compresses the ring. After tighten it once, it leaks less but still does.

PS: I did not use "teflon tape" at the compression ring like on the photo, should I ?? Or willl I have to recut the steel line and do it all over again. :hissy:

The rest is good with no leaks at all except this one.

:thx
 

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gmc envoy_sle
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transmission line radiator fitting

I just finished an install that was very similar but had a small problem need advice. At the start I unscrewed the return line fitting from the radiator to see if the transmission cooler kit fitting would just screw on. Antifreeze started draining from the radiator. I immediately put the fitting back in a tightened it up. Two questions. One - did I get water in the transmission line. Two - is there an "O" ring or someting in the radiator that may have come out or is that fitting just a brass to brass seat inside the radiator.
 

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2006 gmc envoy_denali
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I just finished an install that was very similar but had a small problem need advice. At the start I unscrewed the return line fitting from the radiator to see if the transmission cooler kit fitting would just screw on. Antifreeze started draining from the radiator. I immediately put the fitting back in a tightened it up. Two questions. One - did I get water in the transmission line. Two - is there an "O" ring or someting in the radiator that may have come out or is that fitting just a brass to brass seat inside the radiator.
Not quite sure what you are saying. The fittings on these vehicles don't screw on they have a push fitting with locking clip. No way you should get antifreeze out of these fittings. The oil cooler in the tranny is a double pipe arrangement (a small copper pipe inside a larger one) with the oil circulating between the outside of the inner pipe and the inside of the outer pipe. If you get antifreeze in the tranny fluid you have a leak somewhere and a serious problem. Your tranny won't run for long on antifreeze.

I believe there is a rubber O ring on the pipe that plugs into the radiator (its been a while since I did mine and I have forgotten). If this O ring was missing or damaged you would only get a Tranny Fluid leak NO ANTIFREEZE.

Good luck solving your problem, if you post a picture we would be better able to advise you.
 

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2006 gmc envoy_denali
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Just took a look at the photo a couple of posts back. You didn't try to unscrew the fitting in the lower radiator tank did you? Look at the photo, you need to pull the black plastic piece back and you will see a cir clip. Use a pair of needle nose pliers to pull the cir clip up and the pipe will release from the fitting. Install is the reverse put in the cir clip and push the pipe into the fitting, you will feel a click and it should be sealed.

If you did try to unscrew the fitting you may have broken the seal and not be able to tighten it up again. Some of those fittings used to be soldered into the tank but with new plastic tanks they may screw back in. Good Luck :thumbsup::thumbsup:
 

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2004 chevy trailblazer_lt
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tranny fluid line

Could someone tell me which line is going to the radiator and to the tranny on a 04 TB with I-6 2wd.
 

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gmc envoy_sle
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Just took a look at the photo a couple of posts back. You didn't try to unscrew the fitting in the lower radiator tank did you? Look at the photo, you need to pull the black plastic piece back and you will see a cir clip. Use a pair of needle nose pliers to pull the cir clip up and the pipe will release from the fitting. Install is the reverse put in the cir clip and push the pipe into the fitting, you will feel a click and it should be sealed.

If you did try to unscrew the fitting you may have broken the seal and not be able to tighten it up again. Some of those fittings used to be soldered into the tank but with new plastic tanks they may screw back in. Good Luck :thumbsup::thumbsup:
Yup. That's exactly what I did. The Transmission cooler kit from Part Source (Canadian Tire Stores here in Canada) contained a bunch of brass fittings male and female with barbed ends for the hose. The fitting on the bottom left side of the Rad has a 3/4 hex nut on it just begging to be unscrewed so that a male and female brass fitting can be screwed on and in to connect the hoses. I now know that I should have unclipped the line not unscrewed it. I not only tried to loosen this nut, I took it right off. It unscrewed quite easily, not like a had to break a seal or anything. Shortly after I unscrewed it I noticed a bit of antifreeze draining from the Rad. I immediately screwed the fitting back in. There are no leaks now either antifreeze or transmission fluid from the rad or transmision line at that fitting The transmission dipstick looks normal (clear red fluid) and there is no oil residue in the antifreeze either at the overflow tank or at the radiator cap. Transmission is shifting fine. It would sure be nice if someone could send either a sketch or a picture of how this screwed in fitting works inside the rad. I need to know if I have created a weak link in the system and need to drain the rad and start over. Not sure why GM would devise a system where two fuilds that should never mix would be allowed to. Seems kind of dumb to put a hex hut on a fitting that shoudn't be unscrewed. Although not quite as dumb as the guy who unscrewed it.

HELP!
 

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2002 chevy trailblazer_ltz
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Almost all auto transmissions except on big trucks (like F450, 3500, cummins dodge and bigger) have in radiator transmission coolers, it is a characteristic found on all makes and models sold in every country. What you unscrewed was the actual in radiator transmission cooler fitting and loosened the cooler in the radiator. If it is not leaking, awesome, but keep and eagle eye on that fitting because if coolant eventually leaks into the transmission fluid, bye bye tranny. Glad you install went well so far, this is something I had to do myself.
 

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2006 gmc envoy_denali
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Yup. That's exactly what I did. The Transmission cooler kit from Part Source (Canadian Tire Stores here in Canada) contained a bunch of brass fittings male and female with barbed ends for the hose. The fitting on the bottom left side of the Rad has a 3/4 hex nut on it just begging to be unscrewed so that a male and female brass fitting can be screwed on and in to connect the hoses. I now know that I should have unclipped the line not unscrewed it. I not only tried to loosen this nut, I took it right off. It unscrewed quite easily, not like a had to break a seal or anything. Shortly after I unscrewed it I noticed a bit of antifreeze draining from the Rad. I immediately screwed the fitting back in. There are no leaks now either antifreeze or transmission fluid from the rad or transmision line at that fitting The transmission dipstick looks normal (clear red fluid) and there is no oil residue in the antifreeze either at the overflow tank or at the radiator cap. Transmission is shifting fine. It would sure be nice if someone could send either a sketch or a picture of how this screwed in fitting works inside the rad. I need to know if I have created a weak link in the system and need to drain the rad and start over. Not sure why GM would devise a system where two fuilds that should never mix would be allowed to. Seems kind of dumb to put a hex hut on a fitting that shoudn't be unscrewed. Although not quite as dumb as the guy who unscrewed it.

HELP!
Here is picture of one type of radiator tank transmission cooler. Another type just consists of two tubes, one inside the other. The transmission oil is circulated between the outside of the inner tube and the inside of the outer tube. Of course these tubes are made of copper for heat transmission but lets not give them too much credit. An external cooler is much much better.

http://img13.imageshack.us/i/img0347ibs.jpg/

What you did is unscrew the tank from the inside of the radiator tank. As long as you could tighten it up it should seal again you shouldn't have any leaks. Just keep an eye on it for awhile. And as you can see you won't have any mixing of fluids since the tranny line is connected to the inside of the internal cooler. Only if the cooler ruptures will you have fluid mixing.
 

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Here is picture of one type of radiator tank transmission cooler. Another type just consists of two tubes, one inside the other. The transmission oil is circulated between the outside of the inner tube and the inside of the outer tube. Of course these tubes are made of copper for heat transmission but lets not give them too much credit. An external cooler is much much better.

http://img13.imageshack.us/i/img0347ibs.jpg/

What you did is unscrew the tank from the inside of the radiator tank. As long as you could tighten it up it should seal again you shouldn't have any leaks. Just keep an eye on it for awhile. And as you can see you won't have any mixing of fluids since the tranny line is connected to the inside of the internal cooler. Only if the cooler ruptures will you have fluid mixing.
Called a rad shop last week and got the same description but this photo really clears up the description. Thanks for the help. My Envoy is in a trusted Transmision shop now just to have him look at what I did. He called today and said my install wasn't too bad he just had to clean up a few things. He didn't like the compression fitting because they tend to weep (and mine already were). A flared fitting and hose clamp is much better. He confirmed that under load these lines can see upwards of 200 PSI.

Thanks again.
 

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2004 chevy trailblazer_lt
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Called a rad shop last week and got the same description but this photo really clears up the description. Thanks for the help. My Envoy is in a trusted Transmision shop now just to have him look at what I did. He called today and said my install wasn't too bad he just had to clean up a few things. He didn't like the compression fitting because they tend to weep (and mine already were). A flared fitting and hose clamp is much better. He confirmed that under load these lines can see upwards of 200 PSI.

Thanks again.
I have used compression fittings a lot ,But on my Transmission I used hose clamps ,Just like he said I see a lot weep too ..Hose clamps are ugly ,But they work.
 

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2006 chevy trailblazer_ls_ext
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I'm going to be doing this in a few days, just have to get the lines to run. My question though, has anyone attempted to run 3/8" steel brake line to the trans cooler? I've got a tubing bender and was thinking of doing this as its alot cheaper than braided steel lines, and stronger than using rubber hose that comes with the cooler. I would double clamp at the junction to the existing line where it exits the radiator of course to avoid leaks. I planned on using a maybe 4" piece of the rubber hose to join the two pieces of steel line together at the transmission lines and at the cooler.....

Also, just so i'm 100% positive, the return to the transmission (the side we want to tap into for the cooler) is on the drivers side of the radiator on the bottom edge right? Also, do I need to cut that plastic air dam in front of the radiator to run my lines up to the cooler, or is there a path around to the side? I looked briefly, and there doesn't seem to be an uncluttered path around the side of the radiator/condensor to run my lines to the cooler up front.....
 

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2007 gmc envoy_denali
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This is a really nice looking job. I'd like to do mine this way also. So, when viewed from underneath, the left line is the one exiting the radiator? Did you mount your cooler vertically or horizontally? ie: inlet/outlet pointing down so as the hoses have a straight run into the cooler. My cooler is of the type that flows progressively more as the fluid gets hotter, so I don't know if I can mount it any which way or horizontally only. Did you mount it to the front of your radiator using a push-through strap kit or did you place it away from the radiator? Lastly, what size compression fittings did you have to buy?
Thanks,
Mike
 

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2007 chevy trailblazer_ls
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Operating in two different climates

I had a Tru-cooler installed today by AAMCO. He told me it was good for pulling 18,000 lb trailer. It looks like the #4454. Since I'll only be pulling 4,000lb max, this seems overkill, but according to other posts, this doesn't seem to matter.

It looks like he's he plumbed it tranny > rad > cooler > tranny. But does it matter for me, since April to December I drive in Toronto-Ottawa area, then Jan to end March, I drive in Arizona ?


:undecided
 
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